FOS Brody & Martins (2019 Tom Schwarz build challenge)

[Lynnb]

Your build is coming along nicely, always appreciate the time you put into narrating.

[ReadingBob]

Don't know if it will work with your camera  Bob , but I use a program from Sony to view and take the shots with my Sony a68 , the program is Sony Imaging Edge might be handy for you too.  https://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/app/imagingedge/en/download/

Thanks Jan.  I'll have to remember to take a look at that.  I lost the programs I was very familiar with when Windoze 10 crashed and I had to reinstall it.  I haven't found anything that I've grown to accustomed to (yet). 

[ReadingBob]

Bob


Another fantastic build and thread.  I agree with the others that have said the walls look amazing.

Thanks John!  Much appreciated.   

[ReadingBob]

Your build is coming along nicely, always appreciate the time you put into narrating.

Thanks Lynn!  Fun little build.  I don't mind sharing the process.  Actually looking at the pictures helps me spot things that, for some reason, I don't typically see when the build is sitting right in front of me.  Go figure.   

[ReadingBob]

Quick update (because I'm going to run out of pictures that I've cleaned and uploaded to the forum).

I braced the underside of the card stock roofs.  Nothing fancy.  Just some simple bracing that doesn't interfere with anything.  Note I also painted the edges and underside the wall/trim color (white). 


The base gets a lined with strip wood on three sides.  Pretty simple/straight forward process.


I cut the pilings to the same length using a razor saw and miter box.  The blue painters tape was my 'bump stop' for the dowels so I'd get the same length on all of them.


I had previously stained the dowels for the pilings with HunterLine Light Gray Weather Mix.  But I wanted the bottom to be darker (water logged) than the top so I stood each up in about 1/4" of HunterLine Creosote Black and let it wick up the dowel.


After that I applied some AK Interactive Slimy Green Dark to the bottom of each piling and let it wick up a little bit as well.


Last picture for today.  One of these holes is not like the others.  For some reason one of the holes for the pilings didn't line up with the rest.  So I drilled a new one where it should have been.  No big deal, just odd given the pilings are all in a straight row in the pictures in the instructions.


More when I get around to processing pictures from my camera.     Thanks for following along!

[ACL1504]

Bob,

Since I've seen the finished build, I just say excellent tutorial.

Tom

[PRR Modeler]

Really nice job Bob.

[vinceg]

OK, so now we know how Bob takes pictures of himself building things. But, how does he take pictures of himself taking pictures of himself building things?

[deemery]

OK, so now we know how Bob takes pictures of himself building things. But, how does he take pictures of himself taking pictures of himself building things?

That's very 'meta' :-)


dave

[ReadingBob]

Really nice job Bob.

Thanks Curt!  You missed seeing the finished product last weekend (yes, the build's done but the thread isn't).  I'll try to remember to bring it along again if I know we're going to be at Tom's on the same day.

[ReadingBob]

OK, so now we know how Bob takes pictures of himself building things. But, how does he take pictures of himself taking pictures of himself building things?

That's very 'meta' :-)


dave

Would it help if I posted a picture of myself taking a picture of myself taking a picture of myself?   

[GPdemayo]

OK, so now we know how Bob takes pictures of himself building things. But, how does he take pictures of himself taking pictures of himself building things?

That's very 'meta' :-)


dave

Would it help if I posted a picture of myself taking a picture of myself taking a picture of myself?   

Now I'm confused. 

[ReadingBob]

Time to update this thread.  It's been too long.   

While working on the pilings I discovered that the kit didn't include enough strip wood of the size necessary for the horizontal beams under the deck.  I checked my stash and, sure enough, I didn't have any of the size needed.  I found some that was a scale 2" off so I used that for the four beams that will go under where the coal is stored.  The difference isn't noticeable.


I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the roof next.  This stuff is really handy if you're not aware of it.  first put it on the cardstock as shown.


Then trim to fit with a scissors or razor blade.  When you're ready you peel off the carrier sheet and what you have left is a cardstock roof that's sticky like tape is.  All you have to do it place your roofing material on it and rub it a little bit to adhere.  No glue smears, etc.   


I had some leftover roofing material from an FSM kit I recently build and chose to use that in lieu of the material included in the kit.  The FSM rolled roofing material is slightly heavier and I like the look of it.  I painted one side, after the paint was dry, cut it into strips using the guidelines on the reverse side.


I like the effect I've seen Dave K. get when he sands the lower edge of the rolled roofing to represent wear so I thought I'd give it a shot.  I sand it, from the unpainted side of course, until the edge looked a little ragged.


More in a few...

[ReadingBob]

Just a little bit of a ragged edge on the rolled roofing.


As I mentioned earlier the 3M Transfer tape makes the cardstock sticky so all I have to do is position the piece of rolled roofing in place and press down on it to adhere it to the roof.


After the lower roof was complete I add some pitch where the roof meets the wall.  I used to use Liquid Leading for this but my bottle dried up and I haven't seen it Michael's or JoAnn's recently so I reverted back to a mixture of Elmer's White Glue and Grimy Black (Acrylic) paint.  I keep this in one of those little craft bottles you can get at JoAnn's.  That makes it easy to apply a nice even amount.


The upper roof, just for something different, has the roofing applied from opposite the way we'd normally do it.  Later on some strip wood will be added over the seams. 


I just put the roofing on longer than needed and trim with a scissors.  I leave just a little excess to fold down over the edge of the cardstock.


Time to build coal shed.  I assembled the frame directly over the template by gluing, with the smallest amount of white glue possible, the main pieces directly onto the template.  When I say smallest amount of while glue I mean a very tiny drop at each end.  Not even the size of a pin head.


More in a moment...

[ReadingBob]

The two end pieces have some boards applied at the top.  I wanted some broken and even a few missing to give the impression this business has been around a while.


Again, I glued them on longer than necessary and trimmed them to fit with a single edge razor blade.


I thought I'd try something different to get the bottom edge to look a little ragged.  Rather than cutting them with a razor blade I put the strip wood in a pair of needle nose pliers and snapped it off.


My fingers kind of block the view here but I assembled the side walls over the template.  One thing I'd recommend, or do over if I were to build this kit again, is to make the side walls about 1/16" to 1/8" shorter.  The structure fits, barely, on the deck but the short front wall, when added, actually doesn't attach to the deck.  It's just hanging there.


After it was assembled I touched the cut ends of the wood with the same stain I used to stain it in the first place.


I applied black Bragdons powder to the inside of the wall and the deck where the coal pile goes.  Coal is dirty!     It may burn clean, as the old advertisements promise, but it's dirty to have around.  Yeah, I know I have my powders mixed up in the container.  I didn't notice the containers had labels on them when I was filling them.   


More in a moment...