FOS' Hollis Pest Control

[ACL1504]

Looking good, Tom.

It will be interesting to see your creation against the original when finished.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

I appreciate you following along. I didn't change it much. I did shorten the structure, changed the windows and turned it to fit the lot. More changes to follow as I get into the build.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Coming along nicely Tom!  It's great watching you tweak the original building to make it fit in your available space.

Mark,

Thank you for stopping by. The picture on the kit a little deceiving as the structure is larger than it appears. I enjoy tweaking structures in the first place but this one was necessary.

Tom

[ACL1504]

This is another nice tall building , I find it to be a real art to put these laser cuts together, lots of bracing in just the right places and a bit more.

Lynn,

Hey, thanks for stopping by for a look see. Laser cut walls sure are easier to build. However, on this one I recut all the walls, window and door openings using a #11 blade and steel ruler.

After building Hollis Pest Control, I'll still have a Hollis Pest Control.

Tom

[ACL1504]

The posting gremlins keep stopping me from saying thanks for sharing the kit build. However plan to watch and learn,

Jim D

Jim,

Well, you got through and I appreciate your effort to post a comment. I've been very fortunate in that I haven't had any issues with posting anything.

As I mentioned, I have two others to build for this area.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I finished cutting out all the window and door openings.

I then started bracing the walls. I live in Central Florida so our humidity is high. I've learned through the years to add more bracing to the structures. I wonder how I learned this?


For Hollis' I'm using scale 12 X 12's instead of the  10 X 10's. As you can see I had some left over from other builds.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

 I purchased from Ace Hardware a set of brushes. One brass, one steel and one nylon. I used the brass and steel brushes to add a little stress to the clapboards. I then used the nylon brush to remove the "fuzz" the other two brushes caused.

[ACL1504]

A&I will be applied in the morning.

[postalkarl]

Hey Tom:

Looks like you are having fun. I following along.

Karl

[Rail and Tie]

That nylon brush looks like it would work great to remove raised fuzz AFTER applying AI as well!  Nice find... gotta go get me those with the little brush on the big brush!

[ACL1504]

Hey Tom:

Looks like you are having fun. I following along.

Karl

Karl,

Yes, having fun on this one. appreciate you following along.

Tom

[ACL1504]

That nylon brush looks like it would work great to remove raised fuzz AFTER applying AI as well!  Nice find... gotta go get me those with the little brush on the big brush!

Darryl,

The nylon brush worked very well. However, I still had to use tweezers to remove some of the larger pieces of fuzz. X-fine steel wool also works well. Thank you for checking in.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I applied one coat of Hunterline Medium Brown A&I to the walls and let dry overnight.



I decide on a green color for the bottom trim and Scalecoat Sand for the rest of the building walls.

The green color is a mix of Floquil MKT Green and Reefer White.



More in a few. Time for my first Diet Pepsi of the day.

[ACL1504]

Normally I hand paint the two colors without using tape to cover the top portion of the walls. Since I plan on using the two colors more as a stain than paint, I decided to use blue painters tape.

I used a pointed 1/4" round tip brush for applying the green wash.



With the paint still damp, I used an old soft t-shirt to dab off some of the thinned paint.



You can see a different wall in the above photo. I forgot to get a photo of the larger wall with the t-shirt dabbing.

Continued -

[ACL1504]

Here is how the finished lower wall color looks.



I used the bottom seven rows of clapboards for the paint line.




More in a few.