Builders in Scale G. W. Nichols Wood - build challenge

[Oldguy]

I had to have a change of plans and decided not to build the Dabler Mill.  At the present time, I just have no where to put it, while I do have a need for some type of lumber company for my Belton town area.  So, a lumber industry it will be.

I did have both SS Ltd Jennings Lbr and FSM Barnstead Lbr at one time, but apparently have sold them both.  So Nichols Wood it'll be.  It is a neat looking kit, but as typical, it is a bit on the small side to generate any amount of rail traffic.  But then, I still have a Timberline II, Richardson Lumber too and maybe I can combine the two.  Richardson is mainly a storage building and that's what's needed for rail  traffic.  So I made up templates to see how it would all work in the area reserved for this industry.  It's a siding off a siding, and since the track curve is the same as the curvature of a turnout, I could, relatively speaking. easily install a turnout to add a dead ended loading track.  But then why?  I decided to leave the track work as is.

Then it occurred to me that I really don't need to use the Richardson kit.  Nichols has a wood storage building, albeit small, that could be just made longer and enclosed, and voila, large enough warehouse building.

So, here's the instruction booklet.  Small print and all.  But it does have some halfway decent photos.  Rare for this era. (Except for FSM)

Then there are four sheets of details, templates and the like.

[bandman]

Bob,

Looking forward to your build.  I just acquired this kit a few weeks back and will enjoy seeing your progress.

Horton M.

[Opa George]

Bob, I have always liked Builders-in-Scale kits for so many reasons--the finely done blueprints, nice and plentiful castings, and detailed instructions.  This looks to be an interesting build--I'll be following along.
--Opa George

[NEMMRRC]

This one is going to be a great one. Fantastic choice.


Jaime

[PRR Modeler]

I'll be following.

[JimF]

I'll be following, right along with the others, Bob. Nice choice.

As for rail served, there used to be a lumber dealer in Thomasville, NC (not far from the Dabler Mill, in fact) that specialized in kiln dried lumber. The actual cutting and trimming mill, as the kilns, were several miles away, in a fairly rural spot, along the HP, T & D RR. So finished product was shipped to the dealer by rail.

Jim

[GPdemayo]

I've always liked BIS kits and am looking forward to your build of this one. 

[Mark Dalrymple]

I'll be watching, Bob.

Looks like a very cool kit, and I'm looking forward to your changes/ additions.  I do like to work with a kit with a good set of plans.

Cheers, mark.

[ReadingBob]

Some many wonderful new threads to follow.  I'll be following along with this one as well.   

[Raymo]

Looks like another great addition to the build challenge.

[Oldguy]

Glad to have everyone following along.
One nice thing is that they bagged each building/structure wood separately.  The downside is that it put a crimp on mass staining/painting.  But since the instructions use both fractional and scale sizes, it makes sense for me to open one bag at a time.

Then there are the cardboard roof cards.  Again with the cardboard.  Interesting.  No floors.  Hmm.

Well, let's get crackin' on the build.  They state that one can use their window/door placement or move them wherever one wants, since they give a light imprint as to recommended location.  Sorry.  But that isn't a light imprint.  Never no mind to me as I'm okay with placement.

So no it's a matter of cutting out the window and door openings in the thick material.  I started by adding some painters tape on the back and then drilling out relief holes in the corners.  I didn't have a tear out in any of the 6 openings.  I don't know if it made a difference, but I first cut against the grain, then with the grain to finish the opening..

[Oldguy]

Since this is a challenge, I'll try new things.  First up, cutting in end of boards, nail holes (gasp) every two feet, plus two at the end of each board.  Then a dip in my AI mix.  No clue now as to strength as I just had to add a bunch of 91% alcohol.  One thing that I didn't photo - the door width is too wide.  The windows are short, which isn't an issue.  So I used an old Grandt (?) panel door that I cut off the transom.

I was at Hobby Lobby and bought some Tamiya spray primer.  I really like this stuff.  It would be nice if it came in a light wood color though.  I used it for all the castings.  The kit includes three wire rope spools.  Really coll looking.

Finally got to start putting stuff together.  There is what will become the back side of the false front.  It's made from scale 2x4s and some siding.  Past experience has made me cautious as to drawings vs actual sizes.  Case in point.  There is a casting that they call a transom as part of the false front.  The wood piece that I made is to be attached to it.  We may have a problem as the two widths are off, but the rear wall does fit the space between the posts, so I'll just proceed as instructed.

[Oldguy]

The plan sheets show a lot of detail, including bracing. They use a triangle to indicate where it goes.  So when the instructions call for bracing on a questionable part, refer to the plan sheet.  Not only did they confuse A1 for A2 (I believe) in step C3 , but the bracing goes on the lower part of the wall; not the higher section.
(Update - The instructions were correct for A2 and C2.  Me bad).  It is so easy to misread the instructions.
Then it's a matter of coloring the walls, windows, and doors, etc.  For the trim, once paint has been applied, I wiped it down using some cut down foam packaging.

While all that was drying, it on to the foundation - three pieces of scale 4x8.  Cut 45s, stand on end and glue together after adding the front entry floor.  The entry floor sits on five 4x4s.  There was enough material for 4 pieces.  This THE building foundation.  Seems kinda flimsy.  The building, not the addition is to sit on this with a slight overhang on all sides.  They do mention that if a floor is desired, now is the time to add one.  I probably will.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these.  I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs.  You board joins look very tidy.

Cheers, Mark.

[Oldguy]

Looking good, Bob.

Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these.  I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs.  You board joins look very tidy.

Cheers, Mark.

Very true.  Those are called king studs, with jack studs under the header.  My carpenters were a lazy and cheap lot and just nailed to the wall studs to save time and material.