C&O H-5 2-6-6-2 Articulated Painting

[ACL1504]

I keep staring at the backhead on that boiler...it looks so good I expect the fire doors to swing open so I can see the flames. Beautiful work, Tom

Rollin,

Good to see you and thanks for the nice compliment. It's much more interesting to have a loco you can add some painting details to the cab interior. Not all brass locos have this option.

Tom

[ACL1504]

And Tom you get a WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! for your paint job.

Steve,

Thank you, very much appreciate the nice compliment and support.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Great job on the interior, and overall of course as well. 


Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for stopping by and posting your kind support on the model. I appreciate you looking in.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Hi Tom,
Nice job on the backhead and cab lighting - a lot going on in a 1.5 x 1.5 inch square area...I'm in agreement on the your opinion of the Neo Lube  - it is I guess an "acquired taste".
Doug

Doug,

Thank you as well for the kind words on the cab interior. Also, the Neolube is just to dark.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Yesterday we were discussing the Neolube dry lubricant paint. I commented that just spraying the side and main rods with a flat finish will give a better look of polished steel.

The side rods on a brass models and others as well are bright chrome looking.

In the photos below you can, hopefully, see the different in stock and flat finish rods. I air brushed the side rods on the B&O 2-8-0 E-27 loco with Scalecoat Flat Finish. The difference is much more noticeable in person.

If nothing else, the flat removes the shine.

Before -



After -

[postalkarl]

Hey Tom:

Beautiful paint job as always.

Karl

[ACL1504]

Hey Tom:

Beautiful paint job as always.

Karl

Karl,

Thank you as always.

Tom

[postalkarl]

Hey Tom:

You are quite welcome.

Karl

[ACL1504]

I like adding extra details to brass locos I paint and sound for the A&S RR. Ever so often my planning is less than what I should have or could have done. In this case, after the tender was painted and decaled, I decided to add a brass coal pusher to the tender slope. A coal pusher is nothing more than a steam powered ram that pushes the coal forward in the tender.

I could have just used some super glue and glued the ram in place. However, I wanted something more permanent with holding power. I decided to solder the ram on the tender slope.

I'm using a Cal-Scale Coal Pusher #CP-255.



Here is how it looks on the tender.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

I made a mark in the center of the tender.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

The ram has two brass tabs on the rear.



Using a Dremel cut off disc, the top tab was removed.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

I then measured the distance from the top of the slope to the bottom tab and drilled a hole in the tender slope. I used an Acetone soaked Q-tip and removed the paint where the ram will be soldered.



I then used a Dremel circular wire brush to clean and polish the brass for soldering. The ram was then centered on the slope with the bottom tab holding it in place.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

i cut two 1/16" pieces of Tix solder. I used a small brush to add some liquid solder flux to both sides of the ram and tender slope. The two pieces of solder were then placed on each side of the ram/coal pusher.



I used the small Micro Torch from Micro-Mark to solder the ram in place. I got the flame on the torch to a fine blue point and quickly hit it on both sides of the ram.

As you can see by carefully soldering the part to the tender, the paint wasn't ruined by the torch.

It also looks like I had to much liquid flux to the tender. The dry flux will be covered by the coal load.

[ACL1504]

[ReadingBob]

Nice addition to the tender (which looks great by the way).