Challenge build #2. FOS Freebie.

Started by Zephyrus52246, January 03, 2022, 02:16:35 PM

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Zephyrus52246

Painted the walls with Depot Buff and trim with Zinc Chromate Primer.  Two of the few Pollyscale paints I still have.  I then used a small amount of medium gray on a technique I call "dry sponge painting".  Using a grout sponge, I get some paint on a torn off small piece.  I then get it fairly dry by blotting on a card.  Then blotting and dragging across the trim/siding.  Not quite a peeling paint effect, more a diffuse wearing off of the paint. 

Jeff

postalkarl


Zephyrus52246

Thanks, Karl.  I managed to cut out all the signs last evening.  First I rough up the signs a little with 1000 grit sandpaper.  I then used a very dilute A&I solution on them to take out the starkness of the white.  Then taped to my cutting mat.  Using a new #11 blade and a straight edge I cut them out.  I will then dry brush some unbleached titanium paint if I want it to look really weather beaten.  I didn't do that here but may change my mind when it's all together.


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The roof sign needs backing, so I glued it to a piece of thin cardboard and cut it out later.


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Today I lined up the signs on the blank walls.  The one fit very well, the other not so much.  It's a square sign, but the roof is not parallel to the ground, it's a little sloped.  These are glued on with full stength elmer's white glue.  I was about 1 mm off on the one that's already sloped, but I figured it would tear if removed.  Though I did a back up of the signs, the top slope remains, and I didn't think it would make a great deal of difference to do it again.

Jeff

NEMMRRC

No instructions means you can do whatever you want and you won't be wrong  ;D


Fos makes the most expensive free kits out there  ;D


I wonder do they sterilize those tattoo needles by running them over the cigar ashes....


Jaime

Zephyrus52246

Thanks for stopping by, Jaime.  Today was engineering day on the structure.  The front piece would only attach with the thin top and sides.  Also the front top piece needed bracing as it was warped.  I I added a piece of posterior bracing, but there was still a gap, a scrap piece of stripwood fit perfectly.  A similar treatment was used for the bottom.


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The next issue was the angled door on the corner of the structure.  the thin sides wouldn't have enough gluing area.  So some 45 degree bracing wood was used.  When I tried fitting the next wall it didn't fit, as the top of the wall pictured was warped, so the top piece of bracing was added.  Everything then fit.  ::)   


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Cripes a mighty, how does one small kit make such a mess?

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The roofing material was sprayed black, and the pieces cut up.  The rest of the pieces were braced and the corner trims added so that tomorrow I can put the thing together.  This is the most productive modeling day I've had since the last challenge.   8)


Jeff

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

postalkarl

Hey Jeff:

Nice workbench. The model is coming along nicely.

Karl

Zephyrus52246

Oooh!  It's a structure.  Notice the nailholes and raised clapboards?  Neither do I.  I did that before staining and painting the walls.  And of coarse they swelled and filled in the holes.   ::)  That's what happens when you wait a year in between structure builds. 


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Putting the walls together took awhile.  I added bracing, took bracing off that was in the way of walls/bracing.  I made some 45 degree pieces to hold the angled door in place. 

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Another problem I seem to have with buildings with common walls, is they don't always turn out square.   :P The larger building is square, the smaller, just slightly off.  Also the ends of the structure don't line up.  The sign wall is a little bit taller than the other in the back.  I just pulled the front piece apart and re glued it so it now lines up. 

Jeff


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