Fos Execution Rocks

[madharry]

Continuing... Here is the building with the roof sign and small shed fitted.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...with the Boiler Chimney. This is made from a drinking straw. First I added some masking tape cut into thin strips to straw at the top, middle and bottom.

I then sprayed the "chimney" primer grey using as a handle a coffee stirrer inserted in the end. Once dried I painted this flat black.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...the "steel wall support" is made up of three parts of lazerboard glued together. This was painted matt black and any edges touched up with a black marker pen.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...

The chimney was inserted into the roof of the boiler house and glued against the "steel support".

When making holes into roofs I find it easiest to insert the point of a pair of small scissors and gradually increase the size of the hole until the part fits.

Afterwards I sealed the hole with a mixture of wood glue and black paint to look like tar.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...

Next up are the two loading decks for the loading and track docks. The cardboard decks are to be covered in weathered 2x10 wood.

I covered each deck in double sided tape before adding the 2x10 planks. These could be cut to size on a "Chopper" but I find it easier to fit them overlong onto the deck and then just cut trim them with a pair of scissors.

Mike Carter

[madharry]

Continuing...

The docks each have a roof canopy - I used the same method with double sided tape and added rolled roofing to one and corrugated roofing to the other.

The corrugated roofing is the Campbell's metal type which I etched in Archer's Etchant to make it look weathered and take away some of the shine.

Mike Carter

[madharry]

Continuing...

I substituted the Northeastern wooden "corrugated" metal for the Campbell metal type. I think the thinner Campbell product is more realistic especially when it is etched.

The process is simple -

a) I cut the strip into panels
b) I have one tumbler full of etchant and three of plain cold water
c) About six panels at a time are dunked into the etchant and left until the mixture starts to bubble. Using tweezers I then extract them quickly and transfer them to a tumbler of water. Failure to do so will result in panel dissolving completely.
d) Afterwards the panels are washed in soap liquid and left to dry. After 24 hours they start to take on a rusty appearance.

The time changes as the etchant heats up. At the start it can take 5 minutes before anything happens. Towards the end of the process 30 seconds may be enough.


Mike Carter

[madharry]

Continuing... I cut rafters for the underside of the roof. I marked where they should go on the underside with a pencil. To finish the deck I added trim to the edges, some legs and cross bracing and then glued both to the structure.

I also added steps painted concrete under the tower double doors.

Mike Carter

[bparrish]

Mike.......

Thanx for the tutorial on etching corrugated siding.

see ya
Bob

[madharry]

Thanks very much Bob.

Continuing....

The Peckham's building needs to be "planted" before I can determine the height of the Pier which goes on the opposite side of the building to the trackside loading dock,

So I have decided to continue with the last building in the block of businesses - Bennett Nautical Traders. This building is comprised of cardboard walls covered in corrugated panels. The building's irregular shape is determined by a mattboard sidewalk.

I added double sided tape to the walls and then affixed a random selection of panels to the walls. Whilst the kit comes with the North Eastern wooden "corrugated" panels I have substituted these on my model with Campbell's metal siding.

I painted the sidewalk a concrete colour with cheap acrylic paint.

Mike Carter

[ReadingBob]

You're really kicking this one up a notch with those etched panels Mike!      Looks great.

I tried that process once, about thirty years ago (I still have the bottle of etchant too) and loved the result but I failed to do a good enough job of washing the panels off after their etchant bath.  Over the years the acid continued to eat away at some of the panels.      If/when I try it again I'll know better (I hope).    

[madharry]

Thanks Bob.

Continuing....

I braced the back of the card walls as per the instructions. When doing this please note the bracing should be reversed as the diagram is drawn as the facing walls with the bracing on the reverse.

Also I added additional bracing than that suggested to the bottom of the walls as this will give more surface area as the walls need to glued to the irregular shaped sidewalk in the next step.

Mike Carter

[madharry]

Bob,

Here are a few other applications of the aged Campbell's corrugated sheets on various FSM/SRM models on my layout. I love the effect. The dunking of the panels into tumblers of water and then using Fairy washing up liquid always seems to stop the process for me.

Thanks for watching.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing..

Here is the little building glued down to the sidewalk.........

Mike Carter

[madharry]

Continuing...

I have added a sign to the building and the windows and doors.

The instructions call for the structure to be glued to the rest of the row previously built and then the roof to be fitted before affixing rolled roofing.

I decided to complete the building on my workbench before doing this. The roof has the rolled roofing running in two directions and it will be hard enough to do this on the flat. Also I think I have some issues to face when I try to join the buildings....

Mike Carter