Wichendon Machine Shop (restart)

Started by deemery, May 12, 2025, 12:43:22 PM

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PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

friscomike

Howdy Dave,

The tools look terrific.  It's fun seeing the machines connected to power.  Congrats on an excellent build.

Have fun,
mike
My current build is the Layout scenery and miscellaneous rolling stock .

deemery

I didn't finish all the machines.  The big lathe needs the front half of the belt glued, and then I need to add the small lathe and drill press.  But I found the perfect tool to hold the belts into position on the pulleys while the glue dries, bent tip normally closed soldering tweezers.
IMG_1019.jpeg

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

elwoodblues

Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

ACL1504

Dave,

I agree with Ron. I'm sorry now I didn't get this kit and happy that I didn't.  8)

Tom
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

deemery

The machine tools are all installed and belted:
IMG_1022.jpeg

IMG_1021.jpeg

I need to add the steam engine and connect the belt to the drive shaft (top left hole), the forge and blacksmith stuff (bottom left on the brick pad) and the operators.  But first I need to weather the floor under the machines (in part to hide epoxy stains from positioning the tools >:( 

But this has been A LONG TIME coming.

dave  
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

PRR Modeler

That is top-notch modeling Dave. Will the walls or the roof come off to see this?
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

deemery

#248
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 25, 2025, 04:37:10 PMThat is top-notch modeling Dave. Will the walls or the roof come off to see this?
This is a 2 story building, so there's a second story to be glued to this.  You can see that in one of the LED test photos (previous page.)  But I'm still pondering either making a wall removable, or maybe doing a wall in clear styrene.   After I finish the ground floor, I'll start on the 2nd floor's interior.  This should go A Lot quicker, mostly I'll be building the kit interior as designed.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

deemery

Steam engine and its belt installed:
IMG_1025.jpeg
I'm pretty sure that's the Rio Grande Models kit.  It's a beaut!

The foundry goes behind the steam engine, I'll start on that part next, while waiting for my 'oil staining products' to arrive.  I need a good Blacksmith figure, any suggestions?

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

deemery

Here's my latest thought on making the machine tools visible:  Laser Modelers 3 is still in business, as a custom architectural models firm.  I sent them an email asking if they could cut the trackside (viewer side) wall from clear Plexiglass.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

friscomike

Howdy Dave,

The mill is looking fantastic.  That shop is going to be one noisy place.  ;D  I hope you have a good place on the layout to show off the mill.

Have fun,
mike
My current build is the Layout scenery and miscellaneous rolling stock .

cuse


deemery

Where I've commented on other people's builds of machine shops, roundhouses, even lumber mills, I've often commented "the floors are too clean and monochrome."  i watched a video on armor modeling using 3 MIG products for oil and grease stains, and bought them to play with.  I put a drop of each on a piece of wood (since I'm working on wood floors, rather than styrene "armor.")
IMG_1029.jpeg
The 'fresh engine oil' stain is very thin, as you can see.  'Engine Grime' was thicker, but still thin compared to regular paints.  These are enamels, not acrylics, so you'll want some paint thinner to work with them and clean the brushes afterwards. 

IMG_1030.jpeg
There were some shiny blobs of epoxy exposed from when I was positioning the tools.  That's not a total catastrophe, but I need to color them correctly.  I started with Engine Grime, making sure to get a good coat on the epoxy blobs, and generally working that around the tools.  Then I went back with a brush dipped into paint thinner, and spread that out a bit. 

I used 'Fuel Stains' next, working closer into the tool, and also along the length of the main drive shaft. 

Finally, I used Fresh Engine Oil, applying that to the tool and engine surfaces where machine oil would be applied.  I also applied a thinned wash of Engine Grime over the brick foundry floor.  That brick looked too bright to me, and I think the result blends better into the structure.

Overall I'm happy with the result.  Next step will be to add the workers, and to position the forge parts.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

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