Junction Farm (BESTTrains kits)

Started by deemery, January 25, 2026, 06:17:35 PM

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elwoodblues

Dave,

The barn is looking great, looking forward to seeing the next picture with the shingles in place.
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

deemery

#61
Underside of the roof under construction:
IMG_1406.jpeg
Yesterday I did the Bar Mills grey wood shingle strips.  i attached them using a glue stick.  This is something I learned from Bob Van Gelder's kit instructions.  Talking to Bob, he said "no problems with the glue stick failing over time."  After the strips are all installed, while the roof is still flat cardboard, I run a rubber roller over the roof to press down the shingles.  Then I flip the roof back over, and run a small line of liquid glue (I'm using Testors clear canopy glue equivalent) along the edges of the shingles.  This locks the shingles into position so they don't come loose later (particularly when trimming the shingles to the edge of the subroof.)

Then I started adding bracing.  The lower piece has a piece of wood cut to the gable shape, with 1/8" square glued to it.  Once the glue sets on the one side, I'll add the bracing strip (top) and glue the subroof to the other side of the bracing.  Then I'll add bracing running the other way on the roof.  When that's done, I'll trim off the shingles from each edge of the roof. 

I painted the edges of the cardboard subroof BEFORE trimming the shingles.  That way any slop was caught by the underside of the overhanging shingles.  Then using a -brand new- X-Acto #11 blade held at a shallow angle, I trimmed off the shingle edges.

Then I drybrushed 2 colors onto the Bar Mills shingles.  The first is 'Barnwood', which I drybrushed (using a bristle fan brush) in both directions.  This tones down the grey and adds a bit more texture.  Finally, I used a light yellow and drybrushed solely from the bottom to the top, to catch the edges of the shingles.  I also ran that along the sides of the shingles.
IMG_1408.jpeg

And on location:
IMG_1409.jpeg
The darker roof will look good against the forest green backdrop.  Now really what I should have there are open fields, particularly given my era (when forest cover was at its minimum.)  But you go with what you can get...  

Next up, the farm house. 

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

deemery

#62
There's still some details to add to the barn, but I opened the house kit.  This is interesting, the walls have 2 pieces, a wood subwall (laser-cut from basswood) and a wood outer wall (laser cut from clapboard siding.)  The first step is to laminate those two pieces of wall together (x 7 sides of wall all told.)  I brushed on diluted yellow carpenter glue, brushed onto both wall pieces.  Then I aligned them and put them under weights.  After about 30 minutes, I went back and double-checked alignment.  Once the glue is set, those walls are probably permanently aligned.  Tomorrow I'll double check everything, do a test fit, and then probably spray paint the walls white (outside) and dark grey/black (inside).  Then back under the weights for a day to cure.

dave

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Michael Hohn

The Bar Mills shingles are a favorite of mine, using them on several projects.  They look perfect on your barn.

Mike

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Larry C

Dave very nice looking barn and the shingles are spot on.
Owner & CEO of
Jacobs' Landing: A Micro On18 Layout
Current Projects: Hank's Machine Shop
                            2025 Winter Callenge

http://www.ussvigilant.blogspot.com

Rick

Dave, sorry about your foundation mishap.
Happens to all of us and glad you were able to get a replacement.
Great colors on the roof.

deemery

The nice thing about tab-and-slot is it's really easy to do a mock-up of the structure.  It's a bit hard to get the full shape without the roof.  
IMG_1411.jpeg

These look good together, although the exact position of the house is not set.  I figure I'll build it, then play with the assembled structure.  The height of the structure above scenery is approximately correct, given the foundation, etc.  

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Michael Hohn

That's a nice looking kit. Wise choice. Should be fun.

(I really like the looks of all the B.E.S.T. products.  I'd build more if I didn't do so much scratchbuilding.)

Mike

jbvb

Most Center-Chimney Colonials' front doors face the road. Mine doesn't, but "why" was told to my grandparents when they moved here.
James

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