This build, for me, is going to be different. I'm going to build as shown with materials provided. Although it will be a feed and seed warehouse/store.
First up is all the included Bag A wood being stained. Looks like I need to add a bit more alcohol to tone it down a bit. Then there are all the plastic bits in bag B.
The instructions are typical for Campbell consisting of detailed figures, and blow ups. And yes, this kit has been in my stash for decades. One thing that I did do, was to go over the illustrations and write down material sizes. It should make finding them easier. I also put all the small pieces in easy to get to containers. All separated out by size.
There is a bunch of different sized bracing material that I separated out and bagged for easier reference
Since this structure is covered in corrugated metal, the siding backing material is cardboard (gasp). But, I will use it; this time. I did scan in the 4 template cards as a backup.
I need to ensure that all my cuts were parallel and perpendicular. So I loaded a brand new #11 blade and went to town cutting all the pieces out. And then double checking on width of walls that will need to be aligned later.
Then came cutting out all the doors and windows, I used my trusty triangles to ensure everything remained as even as I could. I should mention that they give the builder several variations of the building. And I went with option 3 that required the main long walls to be switched so that the printed lines wound up on the inside.
Then came the need to cutting the corrugated siding. I tried to make up a cutting jig, but the material was just too thin. I found that it was easier and quicker just to draw a cutting line on the cutting mat and cut each piece directly. A low angled light and an Opti-visor work fairly well, but I might wind up a bit crossed eyed.
Looking good, Bob.
Can't remember the last time I saw a Campbell kit build thread.
I always score and snap the corrugated iron. I use painters tape on my cutting mat and mark the 3 foot width with a pencil on the tape. One line cut fairly softly down the indentation freehand, then wiggle back and forth a couple of times and it snaps off. I find the ribs keep the knife in a straight line so I don't use a ruler. I have a technique for creating the look of lead headed nails. It is very time consuming and really does make you go cross eyed (I go by feel more than sight), but I think it adds a lot to the finished product.
Looking forward to your continued progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Bob,
I've looked at purchasing this kit a few times but never pulled the trigger. I'll be following along to see your build tips and techniques. It will help me decide if I should actually break down and add this kit to my "must have" list.
Like Mark said I can't recall seeing a build thread on a Campbell kit in quite some time. It'll be fun to see (and recall) some of the challenges these present. I still have a few in the stash though I've gotten rid of some as well. Looks like you're off to a fine start.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 25, 2019, 11:30:04 PM
Looking good, Bob.
Can't remember the last time I saw a Campbell kit build thread.
I always score and snap the corrugated iron. I use painters tape on my cutting mat and mark the 3 foot width with a pencil on the tape. One line cut fairly softly down the indentation freehand, then wiggle back and forth a couple of times and it snaps off. I find the ribs keep the knife in a straight line so I don't use a ruler. I have a technique for creating the look of lead headed nails. It is very time consuming and really does make you go cross eyed (I go by feel more than sight), but I think it adds a lot to the finished product.
Looking forward to your continued progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Hmmm, score and snap? Might be a lot quicker than making several light passes. I 'll give 'er a shot. Around here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap. Te Campbell instructions use the same.
Campbell instructions are always excellent! They're the best kits to get someone interested in craftsman structures, even though the 'technology' (die cutting rather than laser cutting) is a bit dated by now.
dave
I have built my share of Campbell Kits and I will be following to see where I went wrong.
Jim
QuoteAround here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap. Te Campbell instructions use the same.
Bob - I got my information from a book called 'wrinkly tin'. The standards in New Zealand had three different sizes 30", 33" and 39". Interestingly all three sizes are larger than your 26" standard. I figure with my lap mine look close enough to 33" widths - I don't think anyone will get out a ruler to check. Having said that I know one or two people who just might!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 26, 2019, 02:27:13 PM
QuoteAround here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap. Te Campbell instructions use the same.
Bob - I got my information from a book called 'wrinkly tin'. The standards in New Zealand had three different sizes 30", 33" and 39". Interestingly all three sizes are larger than your 26" standard. I figure with my lap mine look close enough to 33" widths - I don't think anyone will get out a ruler to check. Having said that I know one or two people who just might!
Cheers, Mark.
Fascinating. You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with. And three widths? Wow.
So I spent the afternoon mainly cutting tin siding. I now have 312 10x2 (m/l) pieces. Maybe I should have dull coated the sheets first?? The instructions have one install the cut panels and then paint and weather them.
Ever so often, I needed a break and added the bracing, 3/32x3/32 sticks. What I almost missed (well, I actually did miss) the fact that you needed to transfer the exterior dashed lines to the inside of the card. This located the lower interior bracing position and also forms the floor support. I found a piece of scrap plastic that was the same height as the floor, so I used it to accurately position the lower bracing.
The long wall bracing must be kept short of the ends by 1/8" on each end. So, I used some 1/8" stock to located the stop position.
Sometimes being a pack rat pays off. I saved my ancient Tandy leather punch to punch out the hole for the annex smoke stack.
The one thing that gnaws at the back of my brain is the lack of a foundation. The interior floor is raised, so I can't imagine the wood walls extending all the way down to ground level. I might deviate a bit and add some hollow concrete block sheet for the lower portion of the walls. And looking ahead, one is to add the siding all the way to the ground. Then add the platform wall supports over this metal siding. Not entirely prototypical.
In the Craftsman Corner at Timonium, there is a dealer (don't recall his name) who has a large selection of George Selios's kits, SRM, and several other high end manufacturers. At the right hand end of his table, he has a fair selection of Campbell kits. I have a few in my old stash at home. Interesting to find they are or have become "craftsman" level kits.
Bob, it looks like you're doing a great job.
Bob looks good so far.
Jerry
Nice progress, Bob.
QuoteFascinating. You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with. And three widths? Wow.
When installing corrugated iron as a cladding or a roof, they are not fixed to either the rafter or the stud, but instead the purlins on the roof (running at right angles and on top of the rafters) and the dwangs or nogs on the walls (the horizontal fixing). For this reason the width of the sheets of iron has no bearing on the fixing. Horizontal fixings are typically 800mm (31 1/2") and the purlin spacing is typically 900mm (35 1/2"). At least that is the typical spacing here in NZ. There is always a ridge purlin and a gutter purlin, along with hip and valley purlins as needed. The purlins are typically 3x2's and two 8x1's are run down the valley between the two valley purlins. There will always be exceptions and different designs. If you search purlins under images you'll get the gist of what I mean.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 27, 2019, 05:47:46 PM
Nice progress, Bob.
QuoteFascinating. You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with. And three widths? Wow.
When installing corrugated iron as a cladding or a roof, they are not fixed to either the rafter or the stud, but instead the purlins on the roof (running at right angles and on top of the rafters) and the dwangs or nogs on the walls (the horizontal fixing). For this reason the width of the sheets of iron has no bearing on the fixing. Horizontal fixings are typically 800mm (31 1/2") and the purlin spacing is typically 900mm (35 1/2"). At least that is the typical spacing here in NZ. There is always a ridge purlin and a gutter purlin, along with hip and valley purlins as needed. The purlins are typically 3x2's and two 8x1's are run down the valley between the two valley purlins. There will always be exceptions and different designs. If you search purlins under images you'll get the gist of what I mean.
Cheers, Mark.
Bob, a good start. This will be interesting to follow.
Mark, thanks for the info on the corrugated siding. I've never worked with the stuff so that is all new to me. Good to know the details of prototype construction that is behind our kits.
George
What I found to be helpful on these older Campbell kits is organizing all the included wood bits. In this case I used a plastic box for the cut siding, other smaller boxes to hold smaller pieces, etc. Longer pieces of wood go into plastic sleeves and get labeled as to part number.
I'll admit it. The lack of a foundation just got to me. So I broke out the last of my Holgate & Reynolds concrete block sheets. I cut off two strips, 6 blocks high and it looked good. Then looking at the dock supports and stringer, it looks real good. This meant that I also need to add some to the annex. Here it only needed 2 block high s0rtips, but it also required adding back an equal amount of cardboard to the lower portions. All of this had to be done prior to adding the stiffeners.
While the glue was drying on the stiffeners, I wanted to build something, so I decided on the sliding doors. The door material was given an AI bath earlier so that was already taken care of. The instructions have the builder, cut out the door frames from a piece of heavy paper, glue them onto the wood and trim as necessary. I'm not so sure. But I need to build at least most of this kit as provided. So I cut out the interior bits, and then cut out the three overlays.
Then for coloration, I used weathering powders weathered brown and dark rail brown. It looks better in person.
I have been waiting for a shipment of canopy glue. The instructions call for Wilhold 560 glue for the metal siding. Obviously it isn't made any more, but apparently has morphed into canopy glue 560. I did some test pieces with Elmer's (no workie), TiteBond (better but no workie), and Flamingo Glue (no workie). I have enough transfer tape, but I need an adhesive that has some amount of work time. I'll find out tomorrow how well the canopy glue works.
Weathering looks good, Bob. Whose weathering powders are those? I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.
Quote from: bandman on October 30, 2019, 01:42:18 AM
Weathering looks good, Bob. Whose weathering powders are those? I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.
They are Bragdon's powders. I just put them in containers that I found at Target.
Everything looks great Bob.
Quote from: Oldguy on October 30, 2019, 07:41:01 AM
Quote from: bandman on October 30, 2019, 01:42:18 AM
Weathering looks good, Bob. Whose weathering powders are those? I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.
They are Bragdon's powders. I just put them in containers that I found at Target.
They look like the containers from Panpastel
Those weathered doors look like much more expensive castings or laser-cut. Nice job!
--George
Rather than burn up a lot storage space attaching a previous quote here, Someone had used up all of their Holgate & Reynolds brick material for foundations.
One of my modeling pet peeves is buildings unrealistically sitting on the ground. With that in mind, I asked Jeff Grove Saturday about duplicating the foundation material we used to be able to get from Jimmy Simmons. Jeff took me to the booth for KC's Workshop. If I wasn't cold wiped out, I'd go get the owners name. I asked about foundation material: he had it in stone, block and brick. He was even kind enough to churn out two sheets of aged brick for me after the show was over Saturday night.
Link:https://kcworkshop.com/
Quote from: Janbouli on October 30, 2019, 05:06:47 PM
Quote from: Oldguy on October 30, 2019, 07:41:01 AM
Quote from: bandman on October 30, 2019, 01:42:18 AM
Weathering looks good, Bob. Whose weathering powders are those? I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.
They are Bragdon's powders. I just put them in containers that I found at Target.
They look like the containers from Panpastel
That they do, but are bigger around.
Here is what I found online - https://widgetsupply.com/product/sde3-87446bb.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiufEprnF5QIVip6zCh08PAikEAQYCiABEgK2ofD_BwE and https://www.amazon.com/Paylak-CNTB111-6-Storage-Stackable-Containers/dp/B00TGDARSW/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/136-3133142-4391310?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TGDARSW&pd_rd_r=79230dad-f2f9-429c-8b3f-1b8965aee9b5&pd_rd_w=usmFA&pd_rd_wg=xwu7n&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=T26R1DF1J5Z1SP888G50&psc=1&refRID=T26R1DF1J5Z1SP888G50
Hey Old Guy:
Looks like you are off to a good start. Built lots of Campbell Kits many years ago. God only knows where they all are now. I will be following along. I still have a few on my shelf.
Karl
This prep work is slow going. I've cut 475 pieces of corrugated siding! I'll be curious to know if I have enough cut.
The sliding wood doors did come out better than I expected. It was a matter of gluing the cardboard cutout to te wood backing and then trim the wood as needed. Once everything has been cut and squared, it was a matter of trimming their spots on the walls to ensure a decent fit. The brick chimney came in 4 pieces. It was a matter of using the provided square length of wood, and gluing it all together. It was a lot easier that I had expected. The stair stringers are molded white plastic, so I used some roof brown as a base coat.
I found that using a set of dividers, set to the recommended 26" spacing to mark the metal siding. The resultant holes pretty much disappear when painted.
Speaking of paint. I am using a couple of shades of gray (not 50 of them) to paint all 475 of them buggers. No doubt it would have been quicker to have added paint while they were still sheets. The instructions have one gluing them to the sides first, then paint. Probably a better idea, but I wanted to see what effect of using different paint on panels would look like. My intent is to use the gray as a base coat, then gluing them on, spray with a matte varnish, then add a white wash using a sponge.
Bob,
Nice start for sure. Like Karl, I've built my share and still have a few under the layout.
Looking forward to the build.
Tom ;D
Well nerts, got this:
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So how come I can post this but not a post with photos? Maybe I just answered my own question.
It was extremely tedious to paint all the corrugated siding prior to installation. I used an old drafting board to spread out the pieces for drying.
The instructions have a template for cutting the acetate for the windows and doors. I'm not sure exactly how all this was to have worked out since the windows get installed after the siding has been added. There would have been so much extra material I don't how they could have been added. It was not a big deal to cut the acetate to size.
At this point, I drew vertical lines for the siding on all wall and roof cards. I find this helps me keeping the verticality of the panels.
Bob,
Looks good so far. Lots of prep work to do before you can really see progress when using corrugated siding. Are you planning to weather (add some rust) to the siding before you apply it to the sides, or after?
The kit is designed to have several different building options, and if you pick one, you need to keep what version you selected during the build process. In my case, I flipped the building north and south. This flipped the dock placement and required transferring rafter and joist placement guidelines. I added a dot to indicate what side of the line, in this case, that the rafters are to go.
The flip side necessitated the roofing guidelines being added to the preprinted joist spacing lines. I added the arrows to indicate what line is active.
I picked two short roof card to add the corrugated roofing. Better to use this to test the gluing and spacing of the panels. So far, so good.
Just as I did with the dock roof cards, I had to transfer the dock joist guidelines to the underside of the dock deck. Then it was a matter of cutting and adding the joists.
With the success of the smaller roof panels, I moved up a notch to the annex roof. I did use 3 different shades of gray, which shows up on this section. One must flip the cardboard over and weight them down for 24 hours to minimize warping. The small roof pieces had started to warp before I had finished adding the panels.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 03, 2019, 08:55:20 PM
Bob,
Looks good so far. Lots of prep work to do before you can really see progress when using corrugated siding. Are you planning to weather (add some rust) to the siding before you apply it to the sides, or after?
My plan is to hit the roof and wall sections with a matte varnish, and then paint the walls very lightly with white acrylic and lightly rust the roof panels. I might play around with pastel for color. I'll have some time to see what works.
And yes, way too much prep work for these tired old eyes.
Looks great so far.
The instructions have one install all the metal siding and then add other bits. Because I already decided to add a HCB foundation, I decided to add the ledger for the dock. I looked into adding the similar piece for the roof, but it would really cutup the siding installation. I needed something somewhat stiff, but yet light, to aid in setting the brick overlay, so the scale ruler comes to the rescue.
I added a foundation to the annex, but made it shorter.
The kit comes with 10', 6', and 4' lengths of corrugated siding. And some cards getting a mixture of lengths. To get the placement and overlaps correct, the cards have markings on them, The upper dashed lines indicate the upper edge of the siding. The solid lines show the bottom edge of the siding above, which seems rather silly, since they are covered over, by the time you could use them.
One card had to be cut apart, the upper section received siding, while the lower section did not. So cutting it apart made adding the siding easier. Then once that was finished, you just glued the card back together again.
One a couple of cards, there were no upper guidelines to use. One the annex sides, it was an easy matter of measuring where the bottom of the highest piece of 4' siding came to and repeating that on the other edge, and then scribing a lite scratch line and use that as a guide. The same procedure was used for the main roof card.
Because I added the dock ledger, the siding for one of the long sides and one end had to be cut, and I needed a bunch of them. It was determined that I could cut the standard 10' pieces to 6', but how to do it easy? The Chopper came to the rescue. It cut the metal with no issues. Of course, why in the blue blazes didn't I use it to cut the siding to width? The blade is long enough. One just had to pay attention to the stop as the material is thin enough to go under it.
Where possible using a straight edge makes adding the siding a lot quicker as the ends are square with the sides.
So, at this point, where am I? Well, I just have these cards left to add metal. One long side, the two story end, the second story roof and the two dock roofs.
Very nice modeling Bob. Is the corrugated metal actually metal or a thick paper?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 06, 2019, 09:06:25 AM
Very nice modeling Bob. Is the corrugated metal actually metal or a thick paper?
It's actually metal. I would guess a heavy gauge aluminum.
Enjoying your build, Bob. I'm pretty much a lurker on these forums, but I thought I should say something to let you know that you are being "watched". Interesting approaches you are taking with these alterations. Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
Horton M.
Bob, really nice work with the corrugated siding. Looks very authentic.
--George
George, Horton, and Curt, glad you liked what I am doing. It's all a bit trial and error.
I've finally done with adding the metal!!!!! These were taken to the spray booth for a spritz of matte varnish. Once it has cured overnite, I'll see what kind of finish I can do. What is a bit scary is the amount of warping that has occurred on the long walls.
With the matte varnish drying, it was on to the loading docks. I had to really pay attention since I change their location as to orientation. I also added more glue to beef up the joints. A quick dusting of weathering powers will remove the bare wood ends.
Very nice Bob.
Bob,
I like the subtle differences in the color of the corrugated panels. I think you have captured the look of the real thing. I'll be interested to see how the metal looks once you have added your weathering powders.
Bob, I agree with Jerry about the color tones of your corrugated siding. Looks like a good base to begin your next weathering step. The wooden dock looks great also...nice shading going on there. One more thing, I noticed that your magnet squares look to have a rivet through the center, tying them together. Did you add that to the MicroMark magnets, or are they coming that way now? Thanks.
Horton M.
Quote from: bandman on November 09, 2019, 04:14:01 PM
Bob, I agree with Jerry about the color tones of your corrugated siding. Looks like a good base to begin your next weathering step. The wooden dock looks great also...nice shading going on there. One more thing, I noticed that your magnet squares look to have a rivet through the center, tying them together. Did you add that to the MicroMark magnets, or are they coming that way now? Thanks.
Horton M.
The magnet squares came with the jig. It is somewhat old and bought from the guy who invented it. I have added some cabinet magnets and rare earth magnets to use as well.
I got the walls painted. I tried to use Pan Pastel white, and it covered the metal. But too good. So I wen with sponge painting it white. I'll need to get photos tomorrow.
I moved on to the roof using craft paint and plastic sponge. I did get way too much into it as I didn't want to go this extent, but hey, I just couldn't stop and it doesn't look this garish in person. I did a layer of raw and burnt umbers, topped with raw sienna. I cut apart packing foam (it was made in layers) and then cut it into dabbing-size pieces. I used the corner of the larger piece shown to over dab, and remove/spread the sienna color. It's been over 30 years since I have tried to rust tin roofing and back then it was all Floquil paint. The down side is that once all the roof panels have been installed, I need to add the ridge pieces and ry to match what I just did.
Since I'm getting close to assembly, I decided to build the supports for the stairway. The bracing is a bit odd since the inner and outer braces are different.
Bob, the corrugated looks great. Recently, on a long drive through rural countryside, I had the opportunity to observe a LOT of corrugated roofs. My takeaway is that the prototypes display a huge variety of rust shades and degrees of deterioration. Add in the occasional repaint or patch, and almost any reasonable color can be realistic.
I like modeling corrugated roofs in general and seeing what other modelers do, and I think yours look really great.
--George
George, thanks for the support.
Today's task was to start adding windows and doors. Then I noticed a really big *bleepity bleep bleep*. Somehow I missed adding the HCB to one wall. Well, this will be fun cutting and removing some siding to get it added. Thankfully, it'll be on the backside.
Then I noticed that I missed cutting out two window openings in the two story section. No wonder it looked weird to me. I should mention that after cutting out the wall openings, you'll need to file down the metal as there will be a small lip formed. A bit of Hypo cement and I'm off and running. Just as I was hitting my stride, I found that I was a window short. Really? I don't think I added an opening during my version 2 re-configuring, but I must have. I went through my stash of Campbell industrial kits and didn't see a similar one. By off chance I took a look at the farmhouse kit, and there it was! I made a notation that this kit is now short 1 window. All windows are now in and weighted over nite. I must remind myself to take more photos.
Looking good, Bob.
Cheers, Mark.
Looks very nice.
Hey Bob:
It's coming along well.
Karl
Bob,
Well done on the corrugated walls. That is one tedious job getting all the panels cut and glued on.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 11, 2019, 04:31:56 PM
Bob,
Well done on the corrugated walls. That is one tedious job getting all the panels cut and glued on.
Tom ;D
Boy, ain't that the truth.
Karl, thanks. Not as fast as I wold like, but probably as fast as I should go.
I am really getting antsy on getting this bugger together. I did manage to get the missing section of HCB on the other long wall. It was a pain as the canopy glue help on to the metal a lot better that I thought it would.
All the side walls (east/west) have the siding overhanging it's walls by 1/8". This is to wrap around the end walls. I started with the annex since it was the smallest. But first I needed to add a couple of pieces of 1/8x1/8 bracing, mainly to allow for handing of the wraps. I found that it helped by adding a floor to make the whole thing more rigid. I use rubber band plastic clamps, which gives me the option of of holding strength based upon what rubber band I use.
Before I can get the main building together, I need to add the dock roof support beams. The instructions aren't all that clear as to height, but the diagrams are to scale which measured out to be 31.5 mm. This puts it to the top of the dock doors. Well, that was easy and could have been mentioned somewhere. Then it was a matter of locating the far end height, striking a line. so that the beam can be glued to the wall. That when I ran across another issue - warping.
Some amount of warping can be easily fixed, but the tall sections of the east and west walls was going to be a problem. So more 1/8 square bracing was added.
So while I was waiting for all the glue to dry, I added some joists to the dock roof sections. And yes, these are warped. The longest one was the worse one, hence to metal block holding it flat while adding some of the joists. The little metal triangle helps align the joists to be perpendicular to the beam and parallel to each other. I had thought about adding the roof beam to aid in straightening the roof card, but thought better of it. It will work better if it is attached to the building first, the the roof added.
Really nice seeing a Campbell kit being done, and done really well.
Jim
Coming on very nicely, Bob.
Cheers, mark.
Looks great Bob. Nice job on the corrugated!
So to get the dock roof beam in place, I had to add one end wall due to the need to fold the siding over the end. So far so good.
So while that glue was drying, I moved back to the stairways, There are 2 wall support pieces that need to be made up, landings to be sized and cut, and stairs to be fabricated. Each step calls out a certain size of wood at a specific length. My separating and converting the x/32" sizing to thousandths of an inch has slowly paid off. I just need to measure a stick for length to ensure that I am using the right piece. So far, there won't be much extra wood left over. To measure the stair landing joists, it was a simple matter of placing the landing in the Chopper against the blade and then setting the stop. The plans have a figure diagram to place the 4 joists and where the stair stringers sit. Let's see 4 joists and 2 stringers. That's a lot of material to fit in a small space.
So, what i decided to do was to build the stairs first. Of course, the plans show the length and the typical "add cellophane tape sticky side up to hold the side rails and add the treads." Yeah, right. I finally get to use the Rusty Stumps stair jig. The spacing is narrower, but this thing works slick. The plastic stringers are a bit loosey goosey, but it has to go better than using sticky tape. Behind the jig are the small wall support pieces for each stair support structure.
Once these have dried, I can use the resultant stringer spacing on the landings. I'm guessing that I won't be using all 4 joists on each landing.
So while that glue is drying, I might as well add one more side to the building. Trying to keep everything square was made easier by dry fitting the floor car and dry fitting the last end. Neither of these pieces are glued in just yet.
Finally. Got to add the last building end. I didn't have any clamps long enough, so I wound up just turning it on end and added weights. Hoping that they would be enough to hold the folded over siding in place. It worked to a point.
Then it was a matter of adding the short second story wall. Here again, the long walls have the 1/8" overlap. But at least I have clamps that will handle it. At the same time I added some extra bracing.
Slowly working on the exterior stairways. Here, I thought I'd check on their height. Good grief. Darn near spot on. I'm not sure on adding the long stairway between the two landings. I most likely will have to attach the two sets of landing, then add the long set.
While pondering that, I tacked to ventilator. While the glue was setting, I check on it's placement on the roof and adding the angled slats. How come the slats are all longer than the sides? Hmmm. I mistook the interior bracing as having to set in notches. There are supposed to be no notches. I guess I shouldn't have added them. Luckily, the glued hadn't dried and it all came apart somewhat easily. So I needed to make up two end pieces since these were messed up and then glue the interior supports. Amazing how well everything fits when one follows the instructions as written and not as interpreted. Shown are the messed up pieces and glue drying.
While the ventilator bracing was drying, it was time to add the stair landing joists,
Very nice modeling so far Bob.
Hey Old Guy:
That's coming along nicely. Great progress.
Karl
Very nice modelling, Bob! Looking good.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks all for the support.
Started to work on the ventilator. That little sucker has 27 pieces consisting of wood, cardboard, and plastic. The it was a matter of seeing how it fits in the roof opening. Oh good grief. It doesn't fit on the long sides. Well, this is going to be an issue as there is wood bracing underneath the opening edges. I might be able to fudge a little something somewhere.
But before I can do something, I need to get the roof glued on. A quick look at the fit, and I had a minor issue. The wrapped portion of the siding is thicker that the flat siding. Well, no kidding dummy. So I took some time and removed the offending piece. Now I can glue the roof on. Interesting enough, the rust looking paint has a enough grip to keep the machinists blocks in place.
I might as well get the ventilator roof sections glued in place.
I managed to file away enough offending material to get the ventilator to sit decently. Now it was time to glue on all the remaining roof cards.
Then onto deciding on the roof peak covering. I decided to cut the remaining section of 6' high siding material into 2' wide strips, 3' long. But first, I sprayed it with matte varnish to better hold the paint. The Chopper made quick work of getting the material to length. Next up how to bend the pieces. A quick look into my plastic scarp box, I found the needed materials. I then marked of a 1' deep line and glued a thin piece of plastic down the line. Now it was a simple matter of holding the cap material and bending it.
Once the ridge caps glue had set, it was just a matter of trying to match the existing finish. One note - I should have painted the caps gray first and then rusted them up. As it is now, way too much shiny aluminum shows.
Next up was constructing the dock roof supports. Nothing special here. It is just a matter of keeping everything flat and aligned. I went to a local train show and bough a couple of these small glue bottles. One has Weldbond and the other Canopy Glue.
Once the supports had dried sufficiently, it was time to add the dock roof sections. I was amazed just how strong those little supports are.
And while that was all drying it was time to futz with the rear set of stairs. There are two landings with a connecting set of steps in between. I was having some issues in getting th long set of steps to align with the lower landing. Well, nuts. The stair treads can not extend past the stringers. Some quick nips with a sprue cutter and got that problem solved. The it was a matter of re-checking the placement of the handrails. This requires the stringer to be placed just inside the landing supports. Just my luck. I added a joist there. Another quick snip of the stringer upper end and that issue is solved. The last photo shows how it no aligns correctly, although not at it's correct height. I also realized that I need to add a lower stringer end support on the lower landing. A quick browse through left over cuttings had a perfect piece for gluing.
Looks great Bob.
great work Bob! I'm amazed the roof held up those weights! Regarding the roof ventilator, its so true in modeling structures that a lot of work goes into getting things to fit properly on the roofs! this is where our modeling experience really kicks in, right?!
Its all coming together so nicely, your build thread has been fun to follow!
Hey Bob D:
the roof looks just great.
Karl
Just read through this build thread - great workmanship Bob! Makes me want to dig out a Campbell kit. :)
--Rich
Curt, Bob C, Karl, and Rich thanks for the comments.
Finding myself on the down hill side of this build. Doesn't seem all tat long ago I was cutting and painting siding panels. In order to get the rear stairway set 9nto place, one must have set the lower, landing. But if the lower landing is in place, one can't get the stairway installed, So, it was a matter of super gluing the stairway and the lower landing in place at the same time. While that was setting up, I had to raid the wood supply for some 2x4 material as I couldn't find the 1/16 x 1/32 supplied with the kit. The Kappler Lumber material sure didn't want to take the A&I stain. It was all a matter of cutting and fitting to get'er done.
While the rear stairs were drying, I was able to weather the ridge cap for the dock roof sections.
I found my supply of 3/8 gator foam board and mounted the building. I did add a short set of stairs, which I couldn't do until now.
Basically, this is now complete. Eventually, I will add some scenic dirt.
Thanks to all for following on my journey.
Bob, beautiful work in every respect--the finished structure is a showpiece. It was good to see your techniques with an older kit turn out such nice results. Thanks much for all your work in posting all the pics and providing this build thread.
--George
Hey Bob:
That is coming out just beautifully. Love your colors they really enhance the model.
Karl
That is looking really nice.
Quote from: rpdylan on November 21, 2019, 07:13:12 AM
great work Bob! I'm amazed the roof held up those weights! Regarding the roof ventilator, its so true in modeling structures that a lot of work goes into getting things to fit properly on the roofs! this is where our modeling experience really kicks in, right?!
Its all coming together so nicely, your build thread has been fun to follow!
I'm glad you liked it. And yes, roof details can be a pain.
Quote from: richbeau on November 21, 2019, 10:13:11 AM
Just read through this build thread - great workmanship Bob! Makes me want to dig out a Campbell kit. :)
--Rich
They continue to be great kits, I'm just not a fan of cardboard. I've a handful waiting in the que.
Quote from: Opa George on November 22, 2019, 05:33:49 AM
Bob, beautiful work in every respect--the finished structure is a showpiece. It was good to see your techniques with an older kit turn out such nice results. Thanks much for all your work in posting all the pics and providing this build thread.
--George
Thank you very much.
Quote from: postalkarl on November 22, 2019, 12:17:30 PM
Hey Bob:
That is coming out just beautifully. Love your colors they really enhance the model.
Karl
Thanks. I learn a lot from this build.
That turned out quite nicely. Good work.
Jeff
I agree with everyone else, it does look great.
I have built a bunch of Campbell kits and still have a couple in the stack. In this 30-second society the longevity of the designs and the company are impressive.
--Rich
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F24-150916090021.jpeg&hash=04f23abc4332b965e58db70d275c5c49b147f5df)