Campbell Scale Models Richmond Barrel Mfg Co

[bandman]

Bob, I agree with Jerry about the color tones of your corrugated siding. Looks like a good base to begin your next weathering step.  The wooden dock looks great also...nice shading going on there.  One more thing, I noticed that your magnet squares look to have a rivet through the center, tying them together.  Did you add that to the MicroMark magnets, or are they coming that way now?  Thanks.

Horton M.

[Oldguy]

Bob, I agree with Jerry about the color tones of your corrugated siding. Looks like a good base to begin your next weathering step.  The wooden dock looks great also...nice shading going on there.  One more thing, I noticed that your magnet squares look to have a rivet through the center, tying them together.  Did you add that to the MicroMark magnets, or are they coming that way now?  Thanks.

Horton M.

The magnet squares came with the jig.  It is somewhat old and bought from the guy who invented it.  I have added some cabinet magnets and rare earth magnets to use as well.

[Oldguy]

I got the walls painted.  I tried to use Pan Pastel white, and it covered the metal.  But too good.  So I wen with sponge painting it white.  I'll need to get photos tomorrow.
I moved on to the roof using craft paint and plastic sponge.  I did get way too much into it as I didn't want to go this extent, but hey, I just couldn't stop and it doesn't look this garish in person.  I did a layer of raw and burnt umbers, topped with raw sienna. I cut apart packing foam (it was made in layers) and then cut it into dabbing-size pieces.  I used the corner of the larger piece shown to over dab, and remove/spread the sienna color.  It's been over 30 years since I have tried to rust tin roofing and back then it was all Floquil paint.  The down side is that once all the roof panels have been installed, I need to add the ridge pieces and ry to match what I just did.

Since I'm getting close to assembly, I decided to build the supports for the stairway.  The bracing is a bit odd since the inner and outer braces are different.

[Opa George]

Bob, the corrugated looks great.  Recently, on a long drive through rural countryside, I had the opportunity to observe a LOT of corrugated roofs. My takeaway is that the prototypes display a huge variety of rust shades and degrees of deterioration. Add in the occasional repaint or patch, and almost any reasonable color can be realistic.

I like modeling corrugated roofs in general and seeing what other modelers do, and I think yours look really great.
--George

[Oldguy]

George, thanks for the support. 

Today's task was to start adding windows and doors.  Then I noticed a really big *bleepity bleep bleep*.  Somehow I missed adding the HCB to one wall.  Well, this will be fun cutting and removing some siding to get it added.  Thankfully, it'll be on the backside.
Then I noticed that I missed cutting out two window openings in the two story section.  No wonder it looked weird to me.  I should mention that after cutting out the wall openings, you'll need to file down the metal as there will be a small lip formed.  A bit of Hypo cement and I'm off and running.  Just as I was hitting my stride, I found that I was a window short.  Really?  I don't think I added an opening during my version 2 re-configuring, but I must have.  I went through my stash of Campbell industrial kits and didn't see a similar one.  By off chance I took a look at the farmhouse kit, and there it was!  I made a notation that this kit is now short 1 window.  All windows are now in and weighted over nite.  I must remind myself to take more photos.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Looks very nice.

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

It's coming along well.

Karl

[ACL1504]

Bob,

Well done on the corrugated walls. That is one tedious job getting all the panels cut and glued on.

Tom

[Oldguy]

Bob,

Well done on the corrugated walls. That is one tedious job getting all the panels cut and glued on.

Tom

Boy, ain't that the truth.

[Oldguy]

Karl, thanks.  Not as fast as I wold like, but probably as fast as I should go.
I am really getting antsy on getting this bugger together.  I did manage to get the missing section of HCB on the other long wall.  It was a pain as the canopy glue help on to the metal a lot better that I thought it would. 

All the side walls (east/west) have the siding overhanging it's walls by 1/8".  This is to wrap around the end walls.  I started with the annex since it was the smallest.  But first I needed to add a couple of pieces of 1/8x1/8 bracing, mainly to allow for handing of the wraps.  I found that it helped by adding a floor to make the whole thing more rigid.  I use rubber band plastic clamps, which gives me the option of of holding strength based upon what rubber band I use.
Before I can get the main building together, I need to add the dock roof support beams. The instructions aren't all that clear as to height, but the diagrams are to scale which measured out to be 31.5 mm.  This puts it to the top of the dock doors.  Well, that was easy and could have been mentioned somewhere.  Then it was a matter of locating the far end height, striking a line. so that the beam can be glued to the wall.  That when I ran across another issue - warping.
Some amount of warping can be easily fixed, but the tall sections of the east and west walls was going to be a problem.  So more 1/8 square bracing was added.
So while I was waiting for all the glue to dry, I added some joists to the dock roof sections.  And yes, these are warped.  The longest one was the worse one, hence to metal block holding it flat while adding some of the joists.  The little metal triangle helps align the joists to be perpendicular to the beam and parallel to each other.   I had thought about adding the roof beam to aid in straightening the roof card, but thought better of it.  It will work better if it is attached to the building first, the the roof added.

[JimF]

Really nice seeing a Campbell kit being done, and done really well.

Jim

[Mark Dalrymple]

Coming on very nicely, Bob.

Cheers, mark.

[MAP]

Looks great Bob.  Nice job on the corrugated!

[Oldguy]

So to get the dock roof beam in place, I had to add one end wall due to the need to fold the siding over the end.  So far so good.
So while that glue was drying, I moved back to the stairways,  There are 2 wall support pieces that need to be made up, landings to be sized and cut, and stairs to be fabricated.  Each step calls out a certain size of wood at a specific length.  My separating and converting the x/32" sizing to thousandths of an inch has slowly paid off.  I just need to measure a stick for length to ensure that I am using the right piece.  So far, there won't be much extra wood left over.  To measure the stair landing joists, it was a simple matter of placing the landing in the Chopper against the blade and then setting the stop.  The plans have a figure diagram to place the 4 joists and where the stair stringers sit.  Let's see 4 joists and 2 stringers.  That's a lot of material to fit in a small space. 

So, what i decided to do was to build the stairs first.  Of course, the plans show the length and the typical "add cellophane tape sticky side up to hold the side rails and add the treads."  Yeah, right.  I finally get to use the Rusty Stumps stair jig.  The spacing is narrower, but this thing works slick.  The plastic stringers are a bit loosey goosey, but it has to go better than using sticky tape.  Behind the jig are the small wall support pieces for each stair support structure.
Once these have dried, I can use the resultant stringer spacing on the landings.  I'm guessing that I won't be using all 4 joists on each landing.

So while that glue is drying, I might as well add one more side to the building.  Trying to keep everything square was made easier by dry fitting the floor car and dry fitting the last end.  Neither of these pieces are glued in just yet.