Time to start another Fine Scale Miniatures build. This one will be Avram's Bakery and I'll be building it for John (S&S RR) to include on his Superior & Seattle Railroad. :D I know you've all seen Avram's built both here and on the old forum but, if you'd like, you can tag along on this adventure as well.
This is not part of the Tom Schwarz Build Challenge. I don't expect to finish it by the deadline for the challenge so I have a smaller build going on concurrent with this one.
Let's start with the box and it's contents.
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Include in the box is a large sheet of color photo's that will really come in handy during the build.
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Then there are those wonderful detail castings along with lots of strip wood.
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Walls corrugated aluminum sheets and other assorted goodies.
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Lots of templates and roof cards. :o
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And, of course, signs! ;D
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A little more in a moment... ;)
First thing I tend to do in a build is clean up and prep the castings for paintings. For the plastic castings this involve removing them from their sprues using a sprue cutter.
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I clean up the edges (although the sprue cutter does a pretty good job) using an emery board. Just a couple of swipes is all that's needed.
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The metal castings require very little clean up. I use files, emery boards, sanding sticks, etc. to clean up anything that needs to be cleaned up but there really isn't much to do here.
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In the off chance I find a bigger chunk that would take a while to file away I use an old pair of rail nippers to knock of the biggest part of it before filing it down flat.
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Skipping ahead little bit. I put everything I want to airbrush on a metal tray using some strips of painters tape taped upside down (sticky side up). I've already done that and primed everything. At this point I picked out the parts that I want to paint specific colors with the airbrush and grouped them together along with a not as to what color I want to use. When I paint them this way I'll use paper towels to cover up the parts that I don't want painted the current color I have loaded in the airbrush.
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That's pretty much where I'm at at the moment. This will be a marathon rather than a sprint but I'll update it as I make progress.
Thanks for following along! 8)
I'm always in for an RB (Reading Bob) build! Learn something every time.....
Me too, I'm always in for one of the KIt Building Master.
Tom ;D
It looks like a great build and Ill be following.
It doesn't get any better than this build. ;) I will be following along with great interest. I already have the spot picked on my layout. It will be right next to the aisle - up front, where all Bob's builds belong. The Threadwell's build that I'm working on now will be in the background overlooking this area of the layout. Bob talked to me about this build a couple years ago at the EXPO, we were at the F&SM admiring George Sellois' work, and I have been anticipating it ever since. This is going to be fun!
Bob, I always follow anything you build, and I seem to learn something new every time.
Jim
Bob, I am following with great interest.
==George
Love this kit...my first (only, so far) FSM build. Another great thread to follow!
Always a fun learning experience following along in one of your builds.
Hi Bob:
This is a beautiful kit. Frank Bernard and I test built them for George before they were released. Have fun with it. Also built one recently for my friend Jon's layout.
Karl
(Hope I don't miss anyone) Vince, Tom, Curt, John, Jim, George, Dave, Mark and Karl,
Thanks for posting and following along. :D This one certainly looks like it's going to be a lot of fun. I hope to finish it before June. If the planets all line up just right I'll take it with me when I drive up to PA in June to visit my family and leave it at my brothers house. Then, if the EXPO is going to be held in PA (still waiting to hear where it's going to be) I can fly up, visit my brother and drive it over to the EXPO where, hopefully, I can meet up with John and he can take possession of it. Whew...that's a lot of things that have to line up just right for that to happen. If not I'll have to ship it to John when I'm finished with it. First things first. I have to finish it before June. :o
Bob:
Would You like me to post A few finished pics on your thread?
I'll be following along with great interest.
Quote from: postalkarl on January 05, 2019, 03:48:02 PM
Bob:
Would You like me to post A few finished pics on your thread?
I'd love it Karl!
Quote from: Lynnb on January 06, 2019, 12:45:42 AM
I'll be following along with great interest.
Thanks Lynn! Glad to have you on board. :) Like all of the other FSM kits I've built (I lost track of how many that is) this one promises to be a lot of fun. ;D
I am looking forward to the build Bob. A few years ago a friend got in trouble with this kit and I swopped his half finished one for a new SRMW kit. I had to de-construct it and start all over again. Here is a picture. It is not perfect by any means but it was the best I could do in the circumstances.
Mike
Quote from: madharry on January 17, 2019, 10:23:45 AM
I am looking forward to the build Bob. A few years ago a friend got in trouble with this kit and I swopped his half finished one for a new SRMW kit. I had to de-construct it and start all over again. Here is a picture. It is not perfect by any means but it was the best I could do in the circumstances.
Mike
Thanks Mike and thanks for sharing the picture and story of your build. It looks great! ;D
I've currently got the detail castings spread out on my workbench and I'm starting to paint them. I used to paint them as I needed them but somewhere along the way morphed into painting (almost) all of them up front so they'd be ready when I need them.
Painting the castings first is a great idea! Usually by late in the process, when I'm painting them, I'm tired of looking at that particular kit build and am anxious to get on to the next project. Thanks for the tip, I'm trying that next time.
Jeff
Hey Bob:
thanks for letting me post A pic of mine.
Karl
Okay. It's been awhile since I've posted anything but I have been working on stuff. ;) For this one I painted almost all of the detail castings first so I'd have them ready when needed. I don't rush this process. I never really talk much about painting the castings and, from a picture standpoint, it's not exactly exciting to see. But I'll talk about the process a little bit and show a few of my favorite tools. I spread the part out on my workbench and kind of organize them by the primary color I want to paint them. There are some, like the garbage cans full of trash, the shelves full of stuff, etc. that require many colors. When I open a color I paint the parts I intended to paint that color first and then start scanning those things that require more than one color to see if there's something that can be painted the color I'm currently working with.
One thing I found handy to keep on the workbench is this jar opener. It's great for those lids that get stuck on the bottle.
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Another thing I really like is my electric paint mixer. Beats shaking the bottle and I seem to end up with not nearly as many lids stuck on bottles because it helps keep the tops clean. Just remember to turn it off before extracting from the bottle. ::)
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I use all kinds of paints when I'm painting the castings. Floquil, PollyScale, AK Interactive, Model Masters, etc. Which ever color I'm looking for.
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I just keep painting and painting. When I declare one part finished I move it towards the back of the workbench and keep the parts that still need work towards the front. After everything has been painted I apply either A&I to tone them down or AK Interactive Neutral Gray wash.
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After the detail castings have been painted it's time to move on to the strip wood. The larger sizes (except the bracing) I give some texture to by running over them two or three times with this welders brush I found at Home Depot.
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After the strip wood has been roughed up a bit I give it a bath in some Hunterline Light Gray Weathering mix. The strip wood has it's own little bath tub. ;) I don't throw it all in at once. Maybe ten or twenty pieces depending on the size. I do each size separately to keep them organized. I let it soak for a few minutes and then pull it out with tweezers.
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More in a moment... :)
I have an old cardboard box I stand the wet strip wood in until it the stain dries.
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Now, I'm going to work a little out of sequence with the instructions on this build. I jumped ahead to a step where the back of the false front on wall needs to be scribed to appear like the front. I used the back of an X-Acto knife to scribe lines in it.
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Then I moved on to bracing the walls. The instructions call for the walls to stained, painted, textured, etc. prior to bracing but I prefer to brace first. Some bracing along the top and bottom of a few of the walls has to be cut short to provide clearance for the bracing on the connecting walls. I put two pieces of the bracing side by side and then butted a piece up against it and put the wall on top so I could mark where to cut it.
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That gives me piece that will provide the necessary clearance at each end.
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When I glued the bracing in place I had one piece of strip wood at one end and used a small angle iron to align the bracing with the edge of the wall.
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Then I weighed it down with a couple blocks of marble (scavenged from some old bowling trophies I no longer cared about).
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More in a moment... :)
My bracing is probably neater than it needs to be given it'll never be seen but I can't help myself. ::) After the bracing was completed, by the way this is the main building not the smaller coffee shop, I painted the inside of the walls with a cheap craft store acrylic.
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Next up I stained the front of the walls with the same weathering mix I used for the strip wood.
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I happened to still have a bottle of Floquil Foundation which is what George used on the pilot model so I painted the walls with that.
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Then I added the nail holes using the templates as guide for where to place them and a square to keep them, well, square. ;)
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Next up was a wash of A&I. This swells the wood around the nail holes and makes them much smaller. The A&I dried a little too dark but the instructions mentioned that it would. George said he then went over the walls with a Q-Tip dipped in plain rubbing alcohol and pressed done on it with his finger to scrub the wall. He ended up with a nice yellowish finish with a hint of green. I didn't. More on that later.
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Time to add the corner trim and trim out the larger door openings. For the opening I put the strip wood over the opening and mark, with a single edge razor blade, where to cut it. I'm not cutting it here. Just marking it. I'll put it on the cutting mat to cut it.
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More in a moment... :D
If I cut the piece a hair too long an it doesn't fit no biggie. I can shave off a little until it does fit. If I cut it too short however...well...you know. :D
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Shaving off just a hair.
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A little glue to hold it in place. I wipe off any excess that may ooze out the front. Try not to use too much.
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I mentioned before my walls came out darker than I had intended and didn't have that nice yellow/green tint to them like George's did after scrubbing them with Alcohol. Along the way I had a happy accident. There was a little crumb of glue on the front of one of the walls, picked up off of my workbench, and when I rubbed it off with my finger tip the spot where I rubbed turned the exact color I was shooting for. So I went over all of the visible portion of the walls with my finger tip and things were good again. ;D
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The corner trim I simply glue on longer than need be and then trim to fit after the glue has set a few minutes.
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That's all there is for now folks. Thanks for following along! ;D
Thanks once again for outstanding photo's Bob . I might be able to give you a little tip , when I use the paint stirrer I enclose the paint jar in an empty toilet-paper roll , that way when I take the stirrer out I can leave it spinning much longer so it doesn't have a half bottle of paint still on it , most of the paint will spin off inside the jar if you pull it out slow , and the roll will keep the paint from splattering all over.
Great progress Bob, and great modeling shirt.
Great progress Bob - it looks great! I agree with bracing the walls first before any coloring begins. I learned that one the hard way.
I built one some 3 years ago now , I will post some pictures if I figure out how to resize my photos that does not take a near life time to do!
Please somebody change that about this site, pretty please!
Another crazy good step-by-step, Bob. Thanks.
Great step-by-step, Bob. I can attribute much of the improvement in my own modeling efforts to a regular following of your very instructive build threads. You also mentioned the welder's brush in a previous post. I went to Home Depot last month and found one, and it is indeed a very useful tool.
Did I mention this is looking very good, by the way?
--George
great work Bob! Love the step by step photos. Regarding the "finger method",,,, I have found that myself when rubbing pastels on the clapboard.... can get a nice color change and weathering effect
Quote from: Janbouli on March 16, 2019, 05:03:02 PM
Thanks once again for outstanding photo's Bob . I might be able to give you a little tip , when I use the paint stirrer I enclose the paint jar in an empty toilet-paper roll , that way when I take the stirrer out I can leave it spinning much longer so it doesn't have a half bottle of paint still on it , most of the paint will spin off inside the jar if you pull it out slow , and the roll will keep the paint from splattering all over.
Thanks Jan! I've been meaning to try that cardboard tube trick. I just keep forgetting to put one on my workbench. I appreciate you following along and adding tips like that one.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 16, 2019, 05:07:02 PM
Great progress Bob, and great modeling shirt.
Thanks Curt! I can't wait until the day I can make those shirts by daily attire. ;)
Quote from: S&S RR on March 16, 2019, 05:42:32 PM
Great progress Bob - it looks great! I agree with bracing the walls first before any coloring begins. I learned that one the hard way.
Thanks John! It took a while to paint all the castings up front but now things should start to move along at a faster pace. ;)
Quote from: Steve25m on March 17, 2019, 07:22:12 AM
I built one some 3 years ago now , I will post some pictures if I figure out how to resize my photos that does not take a near life time to do!
Please somebody change that about this site, pretty please!
Steve - I hope you can share some pictures of your build. I know we'd all love to see them. I had to find a new app to reduce the size of my photo's after a crash and reinstall of Windoze 10. The one I used to use was part of Windows XP and lost in the reinstall. The Photo Editor that comes with Windoze 10 doesn't support resizing photos. MicroSoft's answer to that is to resize them using Paint. One at a time. The heck with that. I want to be able to do a batch of photo's (like pretty much every other user does). I found and app called Photo Reducer (Version 4.9) that works okay for reducing batches of photo's. Good luck and thanks for posting!
Quote from: vinceg on March 17, 2019, 08:01:08 AM
Another crazy good step-by-step, Bob. Thanks.
Thanks Vince! Glad to have you along for the ride! :D
Quote from: Opa George on March 17, 2019, 08:31:13 AM
Great step-by-step, Bob. I can attribute much of the improvement in my own modeling efforts to a regular following of your very instructive build threads. You also mentioned the welder's brush in a previous post. I went to Home Depot last month and found one, and it is indeed a very useful tool.
Did I mention this is looking very good, by the way?
--George
Thanks George! I've been really enjoying your build thread of the FOS Terminal and I've picked up a few idea along the way myself. That's what makes this place great. Sharing ideas and techniques. ;D
Quote from: rpdylan on March 17, 2019, 08:35:51 AM
great work Bob! Love the step by step photos. Regarding the "finger method",,,, I have found that myself when rubbing pastels on the clapboard.... can get a nice color change and weathering effect
Thanks Bob! I need to try working more with pastels and pan pastels. Glad to know that rubbing them with a finger can change things up a bit. Good tip! ;D
Nice work Bob.
What size brush do you use on those castings?
Jerry
Bob
Is that a .5 mm end off from a mechanical pencil on the end of your glue bottle? I bought some nice glue bottles but the plastic end tip is getting a hole that is way to big, because I keep having to cut the dried glue off.
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 17, 2019, 12:42:24 PM
Quote from: rpdylan on March 17, 2019, 08:35:51 AM
great work Bob! Love the step by step photos. Regarding the "finger method",,,, I have found that myself when rubbing pastels on the clapboard.... can get a nice color change and weathering effect
Thanks Bob! I need to try working more with pastels and pan pastels. Glad to know that rubbing them with a finger can change things up a bit. Good tip! ;D
George's trick of using a Q-tip dipped in alcohol works great with pastels if you get them on too heavy.
Quote from: Jerry on March 17, 2019, 02:35:21 PM
Nice work Bob.
What size brush do you use on those castings?
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! I have several different brushes on my workbench but for the finer stuff I use a 5/0 Spotter, a 2/0 Round and 20/0 Spotter (for the very fine stuff). I've made it a habit to pick up one or two brushes whenever I accompany my wife to Hobby Lobby or JoAnn's Fabric. I check to see if they're on sale or use a coupon. :D
Quote from: S&S RR on March 17, 2019, 05:25:35 PM
Bob
Is that a .5 mm end off from a mechanical pencil on the end of your glue bottle? I bought some nice glue bottles but the plastic end tip is getting a hole that is way to big, because I keep having to cut the dried glue off.
I believe it is John. It came with the bottle. They come in a four pack at JoAnn's and they have a stainless steel needle to use as a stopper. The trick is, at least with the Pink Flamingo Glue I use, to put the stopper back in after each and every use or they'll clog up. I still have to clean them out periodically but it gives great control when applying the glue.
Bob,
Great job on the build and the step by step, wonderful.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on March 17, 2019, 05:25:35 PM
Bob
Is that a .5 mm end off from a mechanical pencil on the end of your glue bottle? I bought some nice glue bottles but the plastic end tip is getting a hole that is way to big, because I keep having to cut the dried glue off.
Do a search for metal applicator tips and one can these available. One example - https://www.facepaint.com/products/amerikan-body-art-skweezie-bottle-metal-applicator-tips-2-pack
Hey Bob:
All the pics look just great. Keep em coming.
Karl
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 19, 2019, 10:53:35 AM
Quote from: Jerry on March 17, 2019, 02:35:21 PM
Nice work Bob.
What size brush do you use on those castings?
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! I have several different brushes on my workbench but for the finer stuff I use a 5/0 Spotter, a 2/0 Round and 20/0 Spotter (for the very fine stuff). I've made it a habit to pick up one or two brushes whenever I accompany my wife to Hobby Lobby or JoAnn's Fabric. I check to see if they're on sale or use a coupon. :D
Thanks Bob!
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 19, 2019, 11:19:38 AM
Bob,
Great job on the build and the step by step, wonderful.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Glad to have you following along! ;)
Quote from: postalkarl on March 20, 2019, 12:09:00 PM
Hey Bob:
All the pics look just great. Keep em coming.
Karl
Thanks Karl! Really appreciate the comments. :D
Quote from: Oldguy on March 19, 2019, 11:06:20 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on March 17, 2019, 05:25:35 PM
Bob
Is that a .5 mm end off from a mechanical pencil on the end of your glue bottle? I bought some nice glue bottles but the plastic end tip is getting a hole that is way to big, because I keep having to cut the dried glue off.
Do a search for metal applicator tips and one can these available. One example - https://www.facepaint.com/products/amerikan-body-art-skweezie-bottle-metal-applicator-tips-2-pack (https://www.facepaint.com/products/amerikan-body-art-skweezie-bottle-metal-applicator-tips-2-pack)
Thanks - I will give them a try.
Okay, it's been quite some time since I posted an update on this one. I've been working on it but haven't kept the thread up to date. Sorry about that. :-[
After installing the windows I decided to add 'glass' to the smaller window panes using Microscale Krystal Klear. It's a simple process. Using a needle or toothpick get a drop of the Krystal Klear on end and then draw (or drag) it across the window opening to created a thin film. I've found that I rarely get bubble with Krystal Klear as opposed to some of the other glues used for this (Formula 560 Canopy Glue for example).
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Next I cut out the signs that would be used on the main structure. This is the first time I've come across signs in a kit where they were two sets. One unweathered and one old and faded. I chose the old and faded one. I used a steel ruler and a sharp #11 blade in an X-Acto handle to cut out the sign.
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I sanded the back of the sign with an emery board to thin it as much as possible without going all the way through it. Take care doing this as the sign can crumple or rip.
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Following along with the instructions I applied full strength Elmers White glue to the back of the sign. Normally I'd thin it with a little water but this time I opted to do what the instructions say.
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I smeared the glue around the back of the sign using a finger tip making sure the entire sign was covered with a thin layer of glue. Gotta get dirty when model building. There's no other way! ;D
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Again, I followed the instructions regarding the placement of the signs. Bear in mind that there's a loading dock that will be attached to the wall so the sign shouldn't be too low on the wall else the bottom edge would be covered by the loading dock. That'd be a problem.
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More in a few.... ;)
I used a fingernail and carefully (emphasis on carefully) worked the sign down into the joints between the boards to help make it appear painted one.
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After brushing some light gray chalk powder over the smaller signs I cut them out following the guidelines and applied them to the walls per the instructions.
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These were relatively easy to keep in line using one of the joints as a guide.
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Some rust color powders were applied beneath the vent and a hole drilled for a smoke stack that will be installed later on.
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Woo-hoo! It's time to start joining walls together. One side wall to the front and the other side wall to the rear. Nice an square.
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After the two assemblies are glued together the other walls can be glued in place.
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More in a few... ;)
I cut the underside roof out of the cardboard stock and trimmed it to fit. Nobody's going to be able to see this (except the little people loading and unloading freight) so it doesn't require painting or weathering.
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Now it's time to work on the roof cards. First, prior to painting, some small patches are glued in place as indicated on the cards.
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These are cut from the rolled roofing material included in the kit that will be used elsewhere.
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Next the roof gets painted using a combination of Reefer Gray and Grimy Black. I just dipped my brush in both and started painting. The paint mixed as I brushed it on.
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After paint dried I hit with my A&I mix. The card stock warped a bit but it straightened out later when bracing was applied the roofs were glued in place.
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That's all I have for today. Making progress on the main structure. Lot's to do though. Loading docks, stairs, porches, etc. Plus the small coffee shop. FSM kits are a real joy to build! :D :D :D
Again thank you for the step by step Bob.
Great to follow along, Bob. Nice work.
--George
Nice work Bob. Thanks for the how to!
Jerry
Great Build Bob.
Jim
Fantastic work Bob! I sure wish I would have had your build threads when I was starting out in this hobby. You should have been a teacher. I learn something new with every thread that I have followed. By the way I bought some of the metal glue caps from a few pages back and they work great. The plastic ones I was using worked for a few weeks and then the hole got to big from me getting the dried up glue off them. The metal tips are going to last awhile.
Quote from: Janbouli on April 21, 2019, 05:17:16 PM
Again thank you for the step by step Bob.
You're welcome Jan and thanks for following along!
Quote from: Opa George on April 22, 2019, 10:33:25 AM
Great to follow along, Bob. Nice work.
--George
Thanks George! I'm glad to have you following along. By the way, I'm really enjoying your Terminal build thread. :D
Quote from: Jerry on April 22, 2019, 11:45:19 AM
Nice work Bob. Thanks for the how to!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! I'm sharing the stuff I've learned from George's instructions (best I've ever worked with) as well as things I've picked up here.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 23, 2019, 07:39:29 AM
Fantastic work Bob! I sure wish I would have had your build threads when I was starting out in this hobby. You should have been a teacher. I learn something new with every thread that I have followed. By the way I bought some of the metal glue caps from a few pages back and they work great. The plastic ones I was using worked for a few weeks and then the hole got to big from me getting the dried up glue off them. The metal tips are going to last awhile.
Thanks John! Glad you like it. ;) I like the metal glue tips. They do clog up over time and I have to spend a few minutes cleaning them out every now and then but they give a great amount of control when applying glue.
Wow! I've been very delinquent in updating this thread. I have been slowly making progress on the build though. I'm not as far along as I had hoped to be but life sometimes has a way of doing that to me.
I glued the battens (or what ever you want to call them) onto the roof. In another build thread on Avram's (somewhere) I recall a discussion about these being painted rather than raw wood. Makes sense. But I like the look/contrast of the raw wood so I opted to keep them the way the pilot model was built. I applied glue sparingly to one side of the strip.
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Then I smooth the glue out with a swipe of the finger. I always have a paper towel handy to wipe the glue off of my finger before I grab anything with it to avoid smearing glue somewhere it shouldn't be.
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After pressing the strip in place if any excess glue oozes out I remove it with the tip of an X-Acto knife or a scrap piece of strip wood.
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Rafter tails! Cut the appropriate number per the template on the card using a single edge razor blade.
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I fear I'm missing a few photo's here. My camera has been acting up as of late. It says the memory stick is missing when I turn it on even thought the stick is in the camera. I don't see the message though as the camera is facing me. :-[ I cleaned of the contacts on the memory stick and tried a different memory stick but that didn't solve the problem. I noticed the stick itself is slight larger than an emery board to I inserted an emery board in the slot in the camera and rubbed it back and forth a few times. That seems to have corrected the issue. ;)
At this point I used the template to cut the corrugated roof panels for the lower roof. I deviate from the instructions here. They say to prime the panels before cutting them. I prefer to paint them cutting them. The first cut is lengthwise to make shorter panels.
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Next up is running the ponce wheel over one edge of the panel to add nail holes to the bottom of the panels.
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More in a few.... :)
Now it's time to cut the individual panels. Make sure to use a new X-Acto blade in the handle. This will dull it in a hurry. :P
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Again, some missing photo's. Either the camera failed (this was pre my fix) or I forgot to take pictures of painting the panels. I primed them with a light gray rattle can primer. Then I painted them using oil paints. I was shooting for partially rusted panels. Afterwards I applied some rust colored chalks. I was shooting for more rust at the bottom of the panels, which would stay wet longer than the top after some rain. Not quite the effect I wanted but close.
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Gluing the little windows in a partially open position. I use a small piece of strip wood to prop them up until the glue sets and a little bit of the Microscale Krystal Klear for glue.
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I jumped ahead in the instructions and started working on the support for the trackside overhang. There's a reason I did this that I'll explain later on.
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The support has Nut/Bolt/Washer (NBW) castings that need to be applied. I prefer to drill holes for this vs. cutting them off flush and gluing them in place.
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I cut the NBW castings from the sprue using sprue cutter and leave just a little bit (roughly 1/16 of a inch) of the "bolt" to stick in the hole I drilled.
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More in a few.... :)
I applied the tiniest drop of glue possible directly over hole.
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Then inserted the NBW casting in the hole an pressed it in place. An Optivisor is a great aid in doing this! I only lost one NBW casting but there are four extras in the kit so...whew!
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I glued the completed wood assembly to the concrete (also wood) base.
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I needed this assembly done so I could estimate where it would sit on the base. I positioned it close to where it will go.
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Then I marked where the inside of the concrete base would be in relation to the structure itself. I did that so I could determine the centerline of the track (between the wall of the building and the concrete base).
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I'm hand laying the track so I need to get that done before I glue the building to the base. It would be too difficult to spike the rails down with the building in the way. Using Campbell low profile ties I created a strip (actually I needed a strip and a half) of ties using the template that comes with the ties and some painters tape.
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More in a few.... :)
Just position the ties on the tape (pinned upside down of course) using the template. They don't have to be perfect but not too sloppy either. Notice I haven't stained the ties yet. Another deviation from the standard way of doing this. The instructions that come with the ties call for staining them prior to doing this.
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I applied some wood glue over the track center line I had drawn on the homasote base.
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Then smeared it around both side of the line until I had a thin coat that was roughly the width of the ties.
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I positioned the strip of ties over the glue and pressed them in place.
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Then I weighed them down until the glue set.
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After the ties were glued in place I sanded the top smooth to make sure they were level (which, if they had been stained first would require some touch up of the stain) then roughed them up a bit with my favorite distressing tool.
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More in a few... :D
Now I stained them. I used Hunterline Weathering mixes and tried to get a few different shades of ties.
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Again, this is my own weird way of doing things. I ballasted the track before spiking the rails in place. For a siding like this I used Arizona Rock and Mineral Southern Pacific Black Cinder. I used painters tape to prevent the cinders from getting out into the unfinished base.
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That's it. That's where I'm at picture wise. Next up is lighting the interior of the main structure and figuring out how to make that accessible once the structure has been glued in place. I have a plan. I hope it works. ::)
Thanks for following along!
I really enjoy your build narratives and the photos go oh so well with your commentary.
Preaching to the choir, there are some outstanding "builders" on this site who are similarly adept at sharing the how-to information in understandable formats.
Hey Bob:
It's looking real fine so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Awesome Bob.
Jim
Bob, wonderful thread--as good as sitting in a live workshop with a master builder. Love your work.
--George
Really nice Bob.
Bob
I just got caught up with this build thread - it is looking fantastic.
Bob
Wonderful job looking forward to more progress!!
Jerry
Quote from: Blazeman on June 20, 2019, 01:00:31 PM
I really enjoy your build narratives and the photos go oh so well with your commentary.
Preaching to the choir, there are some outstanding "builders" on this site who are similarly adept at sharing the how-to information in understandable formats.
Hi Blazeman,
Thank you so much for the kind comments. I really appreciate them. :D
Quote from: postalkarl on June 20, 2019, 03:53:37 PM
Hey Bob:
It's looking real fine so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Hi Karl,
Thank you for the kind words my friend! Your build of Avram's was an inspiration for me to get started on this one plus you set some pretty lofty goals for how I want it to look when finished. ;)
Quote from: jimmillho on June 20, 2019, 04:27:00 PM
Awesome Bob.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Thanks! Much appreciated! I'm still plugging away at it. :D
Quote from: Opa George on June 20, 2019, 04:32:01 PM
Bob, wonderful thread--as good as sitting in a live workshop with a master builder. Love your work.
--George
Hi George,
Thanks! Right back at ya' too. I really enjoy your build threads as well. ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 20, 2019, 05:12:33 PM
Really nice Bob.
Hi Curt,
Thanks! I hope you get a chance to see it when I'm finished. I'll bring it down to Tom's so everyone can get a chance to look it over before I ship it to John. Not sure when I'll be finished with it though. Still a lot to do. :D
Quote from: S&S RR on June 20, 2019, 08:38:37 PM
Bob
I just got caught up with this build thread - it is looking fantastic.
Thanks John! Still plugging away at it but I'm pleased with how it's coming along. There's still a lot of detail to be added to the main structure once I get it installed on the base (porches, loading docks, roof vents, etc.). It's been a lot of fun so far! :D
Quote from: Jerry on June 20, 2019, 10:45:51 PM
Bob
Wonderful job looking forward to more progress!!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! So am I! I've been moving kind of slow on this one. I hope I can pick up some speed soon. ::)
Great work Bob! As usual I'm appreciative of your detailed descriptions and photos as you build. Very helpful.
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 21, 2019, 10:30:12 AM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 20, 2019, 05:12:33 PM
Really nice Bob.
Hi Curt,
Thanks! I hope you get a chance to see it when I'm finished. I'll bring it down to Tom's so everyone can get a chance to look it over before I ship it to John. Not sure when I'll be finished with it though. Still a lot to do. :D
You guys are all welcome to come up and see it planted on the S&S RR, too.
I'm just not sure there are any words or adjectives left that accurately describe Reading Bob's builds, his talent and craftsmanship.
As a common wordsmith, I'm at a loss.
Fantastic build Bob, just wonderful.
Tom ;D
Ditto what tom said. You do with pictures what George Sellios does with words. I always learn from your builds.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 21, 2019, 06:21:48 PM
I'm just not sure there are any words or adjectives left that accurately describe Reading Bob's builds, his talent and craftsmanship.
As a common wordsmith, I'm at a loss.
Fantastic build Bob, just wonderful.
Tom ;D
Thank you very much for the kind words my friend. :) I'm slow but eventually I get there. ;D
Quote from: dick green on June 22, 2019, 07:46:08 AM
Ditto what tom said. You do with pictures what George Sellios does with words. I always learn from your builds.
Thank you Dick! :D I really appreciate the feedback. I've learned so much from George via his kits as well as others on the forum and at the EXPO's. I'm happy to share whatever I can. :)
Okay, back to it. I uploaded these pictures a few weeks ago but haven't gotten around to updating the thread. I think I fixed my camera issue so I shouldn't have any more missed pictures due to the memory card not being recognized. :)
After lining up on rail on the edge of a tie and using a gauge to space the second rail appropriately I measured the distance between the second rail and the end of the tie. I divided that by 2 so and used that the spiked one rail down that far in from the end of the tie so my rails would be centered over the ties. This is probably the last time I'll get to do something like this on the kitchen counter. That counter is now gone and we're waiting for the new on to be installed. If I try doing this on the new counter I'll probably be homeless. ;D
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Using a code 83 gauge I spiked down the second rail. The pros and cons of hand laying track vs. sectional track would be an interesting topic for a thread of it's own.
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Getting closer to having to glue the main structure down to the base so I started working on the lighting. I had a vision, in my head, of how I might be able to do this so I started constructing the components to go inside. I use a black photo mounting board I cut into pieces along with LED's and copper tape to make it happen.
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Basically I lay the circuit out with the copper tape, drill wholes through the tape and board where I want the LED to be positioned, push the legs of the LED through the holes, bend them to a 90 degree angle and trim off the excess. After soldering the legs to the copper tape I cut out the section of the tape between the legs.
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Where I have two boards join one another I had planned ahead so the tape would line up. Then I use a small piece of copper tape to make sure the two connect. I do solder this little piece in place.
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My 'vision' comes together! In the words of Dr. Frankenstein "It's alive! It's alive!" :P 8)
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More in a moment.... ;)
This is how I plan on holding the two lighting circuits in place in the structure. There's an interior wall. One on each side and office binder clip. Now I know how big an opening I have to cut in the base to be able to access the lighting circuits if they need to be removed for repair.
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On the roof top vents. I airbrushed these with Floquil Silver and then gave them a wash of AK Interactive Gray wash. Now it's time to add some rust. I opted to use oil paints for this. I don't want these to be 100% rust. Only patches of rust with silver still visible. Oil paints are great because they're very forgiving. If you over do it or don't like the looks just dip a brush in mineral spirits (odorless) and wash it off. Lot's of working time.
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A very light brushing, downward, with a brush dipped in mineral spirits will give some nice rust color streaks too.
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After drilling the hole I use a file to angle it to match the roof (oriented as it would need to be in place - that's important).
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Then I cut the head off the brass nail and glued it in place in the hole I drilled.
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More in a moment... ;)
I took a very small scrap of the photo mounting board I use for the lighting circuit and glued it in place under the hole I had drill in the roof. I drilled a hole the same size as the nail in the mounting board and now I have something that will hole the collector in place (and upright) when I install it.
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Glued in place using 5 minute epoxy. :D The rest of the supports and collector pipes were then attached and pitch was added. A someone tedious task so I didn't bother taking photo's as I was occupied trying to hold things in place and the camera angle wasn't good.
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Last picture for today. I realized at this point that the quite a few of the upcoming steps call for painting strip wood the trim color. For once in my life I read ahead, got organized and counted out the pieces of strip wood for each step, labeled them and then painted and weather them all. In the past, more times than I would care to admit, I'd prepare the strip wood for one step and then curse myself when I got to the next step and found I had to break out the same paints and go through the process again. Over and over. ;D ;D ;D
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That's it for now. The loading docks, porches and stairs for the main building get added next. After the building has been glued in place.
Thanks for following along!
Bob your work is always top notch and this is no different.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 12, 2019, 09:36:26 AM
Bob your work is always top notch and this is no different.
I echo Curt's thoughts. Couldn't have said it better.
Jim
Good idea for mounting the dust collector!
dave
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 12, 2019, 09:36:26 AM
Bob your work is always top notch and this is no different.
Thank you Curt! :D Very much appreciated.
Quote from: jimmillho on July 12, 2019, 10:26:59 AM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 12, 2019, 09:36:26 AM
Bob your work is always top notch and this is no different.
I echo Curt's thoughts. Couldn't have said it better.
Jim
Thank you Jim! :D Also very much appreciated!
Quote from: deemery on July 12, 2019, 12:20:39 PM
Good idea for mounting the dust collector!
dave
:D :D :D
Dust collector! For the life of me I couldn't remember what that was called when I was updating the thread. :o My fix for the oversized hole worked out as well as I could have hoped. I use 5 minute epoxy to glue it in place so I got lucky that nail held it as straight as I could have hoped for. I didn't have to touch it while the glue set.
I thought it was the big rooftop pipe thingie.
Beautiful work, Bob. The bakery is coming on a treat!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Dave K. on July 17, 2019, 06:41:06 PM
I thought it was the big rooftop pipe thingie.
;D ;D ;D ;D
That works too! Never had them in a building I worked in. Maybe we should. They could be used to collect all those PHB (Pointy Haired Boss) ideas and dispose of them.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on July 17, 2019, 06:51:23 PM
Beautiful work, Bob. The bakery is coming on a treat!
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you Mark! I'm really happy with how it's coming together. It's always a joy to build a Fine Scale Miniatures kit. :)
Bob
It all looks great! You sure are organized - and reading ahead on the instructions. ::) Back in my working days I would take a picture of the instructions and read them on my iPad or computer during all those long boring meetings.
Fantastic work Bob - I can't wait to follow your build thread when you build that world class layout.
Bob your build looks fantastic, I need to go back to the beginning from January and start over, I hate skimming and missing the great tips.
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are making good progress. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
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Quote from: Lynnb on July 18, 2019, 03:03:41 PM
Bob your build looks fantastic, I need to go back to the beginning from January and start over, I hate skimming and missing the great tips.
Thanks Lynn! Much appreciated! ;)
Quote from: postalkarl on July 18, 2019, 04:13:48 PM
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are making good progress. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Will do Karl! Slow but steady. Well steadyish maybe. ::)
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2019, 06:14:55 PM
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;D Will do Tom! ;D ;D
Small update. I've been plugging away at this working on the platforms and porches for the main building.
I started by building the supports for the front platform (note - what George refers to as the front of the building I'd call the side of the building but whatever :D ). I cut the legs using my NWSL chopper so they'd all be the same length. I glued the long, top piece to the template with a couple of tiny specs of Elmer's White Glue.
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As I glued the legs on I used a weight to hold them down while the glue set.
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The front support gets covered with horizontal planks. I had to build two supports but only the front one gets the plank treatment. After everything dried I slid a single edged razor blade under the assembly to separate it from the template.
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Then I added some nail holes into the planking.
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The rear support was glued to the front of the structure.
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Skipping ahead you can see the front and side platforms have been installed. Took a little while to get this done but it was worth the effort.
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More in a moment... ;)
There are four small benches that need to be built over templates, board by board. I painted the stripwood for this Olive Green (Floquil) and cut all the pieces to length using my NWSL chopper so they'd be a consistent length.
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The benches are assembled over the templates but they don't have to be glued to the template. I just held the tiny pieces in place as I glued them and held them until the glue set.
The leg assemblies were then glued on to the seat portion.
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The shelter for the gas pump was next. I cut one piece of the siding to length using the template as a guide.
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I took the cut piece and used that to set the stop on the NWSL chopper.
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Didn't even cut myself with the chopper this time. I'm getting better at being careful with it. ;)
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More in a moment.... ;)
Like the platforms and front porch supports the gas shelter framework was built directly on the template.
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Started working on the water tank. The dowel included in the kit that will be the form for this was stained with A&I and then I painted the top with AK Interactive Slimy Dark Green. I'll add water effects over top of this later on. Here I'm drawing guidelines to be used to help keep the stripwood aligned properly when I glue it in place.
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Here's one of the reasons for the sparse number of pictures as I built up the porch. Now that the main structure has been glued to the base it takes over my workbench. My little camera on the tripod would only be taking pictures of the back of the structure while I'm working on the front. :o
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That's all I have for now. Thanks for following along!
Bob,
Wonderful build, thread and tutorial my friend. JS is really going to love this one on the S&D RR.
Tom ;D
Bob, I like the technique of drawing guidelines on the dowel form for the water tank. Never thought of that, but from now on I'll use it. Thanks for that!
Looking very good on this build, by the way.
--George
Beautiful job Bob.
What a treat Bob , thanks as always for the clear pictures how you do things.
Wonderful job Bob. And thanks for the pictures on the how to.
Jerry
Bob: I don't know if there is a copyright thing involved with posting here, but if not, when you finish, you should use your photos and write a new narrative, then submit to Joe Fugate for M-R-H. Your techniques illustrated and explained would apply to builders in all scales, and the photos are right on to mesh with the explanation.
I know I've bookmarked this thread as reference for techniques to use in building the wood structures in general.
Nice looking build Bob, and you have some good ideas on construction techniques that you have presented. Thanks
I agree, Bob should take one of his builds, write it up, and make some money with it (to buy more yellow boxes, etc. :-) )
dave
I am sure that we could find a lot of volunteers to supply to the Kits for Bob to build.
Terrific Job on this build for John.
Jim
Hey Bob:
Looking good. Can't wait for some more photos.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 14, 2019, 11:46:25 AM
Bob,
Wonderful build, thread and tutorial my friend. JS is really going to love this one on the S&D RR.
Tom ;D
Thank you Tom. When it's finished I'll be sure to bring it down to show if off before I ship it to John. ;)
Quote from: Opa George on August 14, 2019, 11:48:00 AM
Bob, I like the technique of drawing guidelines on the dowel form for the water tank. Never thought of that, but from now on I'll use it. Thanks for that!
Looking very good on this build, by the way.
--George
Thanks George! I can't take credit for that idea. It came straight out of the instructions. It's been quite some time since I did a water tank that didn't used a scribed sheet as a wrapper. I'm having some fun with this one and have a few ideas for weathering I want to try. :)
Quote from: Janbouli on August 14, 2019, 02:02:00 PM
What a treat Bob , thanks as always for the clear pictures how you do things.
You're quite welcome Jan! Glad to have you following along! :D
Quote from: Jerry on August 15, 2019, 08:30:01 AM
Wonderful job Bob. And thanks for the pictures on the how to.
Jerry
Thank you Jerry! Always happy to share what I'm working on. It kind of keeps me focused and moving forward to completion. ;)
Quote from: Blazeman on August 15, 2019, 11:23:16 AM
Bob: I don't know if there is a copyright thing involved with posting here, but if not, when you finish, you should use your photos and write a new narrative, then submit to Joe Fugate for M-R-H. Your techniques illustrated and explained would apply to builders in all scales, and the photos are right on to mesh with the explanation.
I know I've bookmarked this thread as reference for techniques to use in building the wood structures in general.
Thanks! Never thought about that but maybe the next time I do a thread on a larger kit like this I might try that. I can do it in a document first and then transfer it over to the forum. I'll have to give that some thought. :)
Quote from: sdrees on August 15, 2019, 11:52:41 AM
Nice looking build Bob, and you have some good ideas on construction techniques that you have presented. Thanks
Thanks Steve! I find it fun to share what I've learned over the years from both kit instructions, magazines and (more importantly) y'all that post on these forums. ;D
Quote from: deemery on August 15, 2019, 12:05:26 PM
I agree, Bob should take one of his builds, write it up, and make some money with it (to buy more yellow boxes, etc. :-) )
dave
;D I may give writing one of these up a try some day. Not sure about buying more kits though. I've got so many kits to build now I'll be busy well into retirement (whenever it is I get there). :)
Quote from: jimmillho on August 15, 2019, 03:21:04 PM
I am sure that we could find a lot of volunteers to supply to the Kits for Bob to build.
Terrific Job on this build for John.
Jim
Thanks for the plug Jim but it's already about every third or forth build that I do that is one of my own kits for me. :o Good thing I don't have a layout. ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on August 16, 2019, 07:41:55 AM
Hey Bob:
Looking good. Can't wait for some more photos.
Karl
Thanks Karl! Hope to get on that pretty soon. We'll see how it goes!
Bob
I can't wait to see your progress. So far everything looks great.
This is turning out great Bob! Following along and can't wait to see progress!
Quote from: S&S RR on August 16, 2019, 01:38:47 PM
Bob
I can't wait to see your progress. So far everything looks great.
Thanks John! Slow but steady. A little bit slower than normal with the kitchen remodel and interior painting interfering with my living room workspace. ::) The coffee shop, when I get to it, won't take nearly as long as the main structure. I hope! ;D
Quote from: Todd W. on August 19, 2019, 08:45:20 AM
This is turning out great Bob! Following along and can't wait to see progress!
Thank you Todd! Really appreciate having you following along. Like every other FSM kit I've built this one is a real joy to work on. :D :D :D
Oh my, I haven't posted any updates to this for quite some time but I have made progress. I'd better hurry or Karl will be finished with two or three more builds before I move onto my next. ;D
I took all the boards for the water tank, stained them with driftwood and then put them on a piece of painters tape side by side and even at the bottom. I drew a line where the top of the 'water' is going to be inside the tank and then added some moss extending from the line upwards towards the top of the tank using AK Interactive Moss Deposits.
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I noticed that if I wrapped the boards (still on the tape) around the tank I was coming up with a little bit of gap. So I made a mental note to not glue them together as tight as I normally might hoping the extra space would resolve any gap issue I might have.
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Then I started gluing them onto the water. This certainly would be a leaky tank if that was real water in there. :o
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This was actually fun to assemble. It's been a while since I put together a water tank that was a sheet of scribed wood wrapped around a dowel.
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I added some moss to the bottom of the tank on the outside after it was assembled and then marked off where the bands would go. I actually ended up with an extra board and had to cut one down a bit to close the final gap. I could have glued them together a little bit tighter than I did.
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Using the marks as a guide I drilled holes in one side of the tank to glue the end of the thread that will be used to band the tank.
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More in a moment.... ;)
Hey Bob:
Just finished the board by board water tank on Houligan's Alley. Fun isn't it. I'm sure yours will look just great.
Karl
The tank bands are thread. One end gets glued in the hole that I drilled, the thread gets wrapped around the tank and then glued to where down over the piece that goes in the hole. I trimmed them with scissors. This side will be against the building so it'll be pretty well hidden.
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There are a couple of pipes that come out of the building and go down into the water. The pipes are made of some pretty heavy wire included in the kit. I cut the wire with some hardened wire cutters. The wire included in the kit will chew up rail nippers or regular wire cutters.
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The pipes get bent, a little piece or insulation from a piece or wire gets slide on over them to make the joints and then they get painted a nice rust color and glued in place. The tank is in place now and looking suitably grungy. :o
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A little bit of scenery was added beneath the stairs as this will be difficult to get to later on. This is just the start of the scenery though. I'll add more weeds and debris later on. ;)
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Took a break and started adding details to the main structure.
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The details add a lot to the overall appearance.
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More in a moment... :D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 04, 2019, 02:55:12 PM
Hey Bob:
Just finished the board by board water tank on Houligan's Alley. Fun isn't it. I'm sure yours will look just great.
Karl
Thanks Karl. I like the way you substituted paper for the thread when you added the bands on that one. They look really nice.
Time to get started on the coffee shop. I followed the instructions on this and didn't stain the wall before painting them like I usually do. Partly because I was following the instructions and partly because I forgot to stain them. ::) I painted them white first (Polly Scale Reefer White).
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Then I painted the lower portion with Floquil Depot Buff. These are the same colors George used except he used the Floquil Reefer White and the Polly Scale Depot Buff. :P
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I added the nail holes with a ponce wheel as per the templates.
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Next up I applied a wash of A&I. A little darker than I would normally use on a structure I'm trying to make look not too old/weathered but the next step was to go back with a Q-Tip dipped in plain old rubbing alcohol and scrub some of the darkness off. That worked okay. It leaves a little of the darker stuff down in the crevices.
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The windows and doors where glued in place next.
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Then all the cool signs and posters were added to the walls. ;D
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More in a moment... :D
I just used plain old Elmer's White Glue to glue the posters to the walls. Bent a few corners down here and there and lightly weathered one or two by scrubbing a bit with some fine steel wool.
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I liked the way, the pilot model, the back wall had posters over top of posters so I did the same thing.
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3M Transfer tape was then applied to the roof.
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Trimmed the 3M Transfer tape to fit after sticking it on the roof.
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This was done the same way as the main structure. The 3M Transfer tape was exposed and then strips of the roofing material were add to the roof. It got painted afterwards.
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The roofing material was trimmed to fit using scissors. I love these little micro sheer scissors that Friskar sells for stuff like this.
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More in a moment... :P
I came up with a simple little light bar that fits inside the structure. It consists of a current limiter and 3 LED's. I had to cut a hole in the inner wall to slide it through and put a support or two in place to hold it.
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The lower roof is removable in case the lights need servicing. The only thing I didn't think of was the electrical lines that get attached to the roof. Oh well, I didn't glue that casting in place so it can be popped out but hopefully the LED's will never need to be serviced. ::)
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Time to add the vents, chimney, etc.
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A piece of wire is used for one of the vent pipes. I glued this in place with some ACC prior to painting it. I find painting it afterwards just as easy. Since there will be a little pitch added around the base no worries about getting too accurate where it goes into the roof.
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That's all for now. Getting close to adding streets, sidewalks, etc. and buttoning this one up!
Thanks for following along!
Bob the build looks fantastic! I can't wait to see it.
Nice work so far, Bob. The moss effect on the tank is really neat.
Jeff
Great job Bob!
John
Awesome job Bob.
Bob,
Wow. Both the main building and the restaurant really look great. Glad to see it so close to the finish line.
Hey Bob:
Looks just great and look someone else who uses double faced adhesive.
Karl
Looks great Bob!! Love that water tank with the moss excellent detailing!
Jerry
Quote from: S&S RR on October 04, 2019, 03:41:10 PM
Bob the build looks fantastic! I can't wait to see it.
Thanks John! Can't wait until you can see it either. Getting closer (after all these months). ::)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 04, 2019, 04:29:35 PM
Nice work so far, Bob. The moss effect on the tank is really neat.
Jeff
Thanks Dr. Jeff! Thought I'd give that AK Interactive stuff a try. I was happy with how it came turned out. :D
Quote from: cuse on October 04, 2019, 05:09:58 PM
Great job Bob!
John
Thanks John! Much appreciated. ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 04, 2019, 07:12:46 PM
Awesome job Bob.
Thanks Curt! I didn't have it quite ready to bring down to Tom's last Saturday. I'll make sure to bring it down before I ship it John though. Maybe you'll be there to see it in person. :D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 04, 2019, 07:14:07 PM
Bob,
Wow. Both the main building and the restaurant really look great. Glad to see it so close to the finish line.
Thanks Jerry! Yes, it's been a long one. I'm going to have knock out a few smaller one's after this. I already have a Bar Mills background flat lined up plus a few small FOS kits I want to build. ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on October 04, 2019, 07:32:08 PM
Hey Bob:
Looks just great and look someone else who uses double faced adhesive.
Karl
Thanks Karl! Yep, that 3M transfer tape works well. :)
Quote from: Jerry on October 05, 2019, 06:15:45 PM
Looks great Bob!! Love that water tank with the moss excellent detailing!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! It's supposed to be a 'no longer used' water tank. Let's hope they're not using that green water for baking. :o
Awesome build Bob! I will keep in mind the transfer tape for the roofing on my roundhouse.
Just catching up with your build. Looking great! Those AK products are nice. I may (will) have to pick up some of that.
Your doing a outstanding job Bob!!!!......Dennis
Awesome Bob.
Hope I get to make it over tp Tom's to see it in person.
Jim
Hey Bob:
She's looking just beautiful.
Karl
Bob,
I love your modeling and your t-shirts.
ed
Quote from: sdrees on October 07, 2019, 10:32:20 PM
Awesome build Bob! I will keep in mind the transfer tape for the roofing on my roundhouse.
Thank you Steve. I really like the 3M Transfer Tape. It saves from having glue marks that need to be cleaned up (or hidden) after the fact. ::)
Quote from: MAP on October 08, 2019, 06:39:39 AM
Just catching up with your build. Looking great! Those AK products are nice. I may (will) have to pick up some of that.
Thanks Mark! My favorite is their Neutral Gray Wash but I'm still experimenting with a lot of there other products. I find the Neutral Gray Wash works really well for detail castings. Especially those painted with a silver/aluminum color. I have far more control with it then I do with A&I and can get the effects I want. ;)
Quote from: DennisBourey on October 08, 2019, 10:53:52 AM
Your doing a outstanding job Bob!!!!......Dennis
Thank you Dennis. I'm busy adding dirt and weeds to the base so not much to show at the moment but hopefully I'll have something soon. :)
Quote from: jimmillho on October 08, 2019, 11:30:42 AM
Awesome Bob.
Hope I get to make it over tp Tom's to see it in person.
Jim
Thanks Jim! Much appreciated. Closing in on the finish line. This has been a marathon. ::)
Quote from: postalkarl on October 08, 2019, 05:04:11 PM
Hey Bob:
She's looking just beautiful.
Karl
Thanks Karl! Much appreciated! :)
Quote from: engine909 on October 13, 2019, 04:26:53 PM
Bob,
I love your modeling and your t-shirts.
ed
Thanks Ed! Much appreciated. I can't wait until the t-shirts become my seven day a week wardrobe. ;)
Been awhile. ::) Sorry about that. Time to post some final photo's. I didn't bother taking any pictures of me adding the dirt, roads, weeds, etc. That's just a layer after layer process of putting stuff down until it looks decent to me. I think it will look a little better blended into the S&S than it does sitting on my kitchen counter. :D
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More in a moment... ;)
Next challenge is going to be packing this up and shipping it from Florida to Michigan (John - PM me your address when get a chance).
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Time to move on to the next build....Bar Mills Seckler's Cold Storage for the A&S! :D :D :D
A very nice Christmas present for someone in Michigan. Lucky guy!
Great looking diorama.
Thanks for sharing your photos with us.
Looks great Bob , thanks for sharing
I found it was a good idea to put a kit into a loose plastic bag, before packing it in styrofoam peanuts or whatever else you'll use. That way if some small bit comes off, it's trapped in the plastic bag, rather than lost in the packing material.
dave
Absolutely stunning.
Quote from: sdrees on December 25, 2019, 12:47:08 PM
A very nice Christmas present for someone in Michigan. Lucky guy!
:D Thanks Steve. I hope I get to see it in place on John's layout someday. It's a bit of a drive from Florida to Michigan though. ::)
Quote from: darrylhuffman on December 25, 2019, 04:33:03 PM
Great looking diorama.
Thanks for sharing your photos with us.
Thanks Darryl! It was a fun build. Took me a lot longer than I had planned/hoped but fun none the less. :D
Quote from: Janbouli on December 25, 2019, 05:20:40 PM
Looks great Bob , thanks for sharing
Thanks Jan! Much appreciated. :)
Quote from: deemery on December 25, 2019, 06:37:23 PM
I found it was a good idea to put a kit into a loose plastic bag, before packing it in styrofoam peanuts or whatever else you'll use. That way if some small bit comes off, it's trapped in the plastic bag, rather than lost in the packing material.
dave
Thanks for the suggestion Dave. The one or two times I've sent small dioramas in the past I wrapped them in plastic wrap per Jimmy D's suggestion. For this one I build a rather sturdy box out of a sheet of Gatorfoam like material I scavenged from one of our user conferences. I'll slip it down over the diorama and screw it to the base. I'll put that box in a bigger box with some packing materials. Anything that comes off during shipping shouldn't get lost in the packing materials. It should stay within the confines of the box protecting the diorama.
Quote from: Oldguy on December 25, 2019, 10:04:21 PM
Absolutely stunning.
Thank you Bob! It's a terrific kit and it was a lot of fun to build. A tip of the hat to George for all the wonderful kits he produced over the years. :D
Beautiful diorama, Bob. Great work.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on December 26, 2019, 07:20:37 AM
Beautiful diorama, Bob. Great work.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! Appreciate you checking it out. ;D
I got to see this one up close and in person. It was fantastic and the photos don't show just how wonderful the built actually is.
I almost had Bob talked into leaving it here but I didn't have one to give him in return. 8)
Tom ;D
Well done Bob..... 8)
A triumph, Bob! I really like how it turned out. There is a lot of inspiration here.
--George
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 26, 2019, 07:10:41 AM
:D Thanks Steve. I hope I get to see it in place on John's layout someday. It's a bit of a drive from Florida to Michigan though. ::)
Great work Bob...somebody needs to have a big craftsman-type train show in Michigan...The S&S is on my layout bucket list too.
John
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 26, 2019, 08:00:24 AM
I got to see this one up close and in person. It was fantastic and the photos don't show just how wonderful the built actually is.
I almost had Bob talked into leaving it here but I didn't have one to give him in return. 8)
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Hi praise from the master himself. :D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 26, 2019, 09:07:47 AM
Well done Bob..... 8)
Thank you kind sir! Much appreciated. :D
Quote from: Opa George on December 26, 2019, 01:03:57 PM
A triumph, Bob! I really like how it turned out. There is a lot of inspiration here.
--George
Thanks George! A great kit made it what it is. It's hard to go wrong with an Fine Scale Miniatures kit. ;D
Quote from: cuse on December 26, 2019, 02:08:43 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 26, 2019, 07:10:41 AM
:D Thanks Steve. I hope I get to see it in place on John's layout someday. It's a bit of a drive from Florida to Michigan though. ::)
Great work Bob...somebody needs to have a big craftsman-type train show in Michigan...The S&S is on my layout bucket list too.
John
Thank you John! I agree, a reason to travel to S&S territory would be quite welcome. ;)
A beautiful diorama. Grat work Bob.
Jerry
You are all welcome to come and see it on the S&S RR. I hope we find a way to make that happen.
You are such a lucky guy to have a great modeler build some fantastic buildings for you.
Quote from: sdrees on December 27, 2019, 04:03:15 PM
You are such a lucky guy to have a great modeler build some fantastic buildings for you.
I sure am. This will be the second structure on the S&S RR that I didn't build. Wayne Olson built the Water Tower in back of the saw mill complex.