Fine Scale Miniatures Jewel Series #10 Avram's Bakery for the S&S RR

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

All the pics look just great. Keep em coming.

Karl

[Jerry]

Nice work Bob.

What size brush do you use on those castings?

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!  I have several different brushes on my workbench but for the finer stuff I use a 5/0 Spotter, a 2/0 Round and 20/0 Spotter (for the very fine stuff).  I've made it a habit to pick up one or two brushes whenever I accompany my wife to Hobby Lobby or JoAnn's Fabric.  I check to see if they're on sale or use a coupon.   

Thanks Bob!

[ReadingBob]

Bob,

Great job on the build and the step by step, wonderful.

Tom

Thanks Tom!  Glad to have you following along! 

[ReadingBob]

Hey Bob:

All the pics look just great. Keep em coming.

Karl

Thanks Karl!  Really appreciate the comments. 

[S&S RR]

Bob


Is that a .5 mm end off from a mechanical pencil on the end of your glue bottle?  I bought some nice glue bottles but the plastic end tip is getting a hole that is way to big, because I keep having to cut the dried glue off.

Do a search for metal applicator tips and one can these available.  One example - https://www.facepaint.com/products/amerikan-body-art-skweezie-bottle-metal-applicator-tips-2-pack

Thanks - I will give them a try.

[ReadingBob]

Okay, it's been quite some time since I posted an update on this one.  I've been working on it but haven't kept the thread up to date.  Sorry about that.   

After installing the windows I decided to add 'glass' to the smaller window panes using Microscale Krystal Klear.  It's a simple process.  Using a needle or toothpick get a drop of the Krystal Klear on end and then draw (or drag) it across the window opening to created a thin film.  I've found that I rarely get bubble with Krystal Klear as opposed to some of the other glues used for this (Formula 560 Canopy Glue for example).


Next I cut out the signs that would be used on the main structure.  This is the first time I've come across signs in a kit where they were two sets.  One unweathered and one old and faded.  I chose the old and faded one.  I used a steel ruler and a sharp #11 blade in an X-Acto handle to cut out the sign.


I sanded the back of the sign with an emery board to thin it as much as possible without going all the way through it.  Take care doing this as the sign can crumple or rip.


Following along with the instructions I applied full strength Elmers White glue to the back of the sign.  Normally I'd thin it with a little water but this time I opted to do what the instructions say.


I smeared the glue around the back of the sign using a finger tip making sure the entire sign was covered with a thin layer of glue.  Gotta get dirty when model building.  There's no other way!   


Again, I followed the instructions regarding the placement of the signs.  Bear in mind that there's a loading dock that will be attached to the wall so the sign shouldn't be too low on the wall else the bottom edge would be covered by the loading dock.  That'd be a problem.


More in a few....

[ReadingBob]

I used a fingernail and carefully (emphasis on carefully) worked the sign down into the joints between the boards to help make it appear painted one.


After brushing some light gray chalk powder over the smaller signs I cut them out following the guidelines and applied them to the walls per the instructions.


These were relatively easy to keep in line using one of the joints as a guide.


Some rust color powders were applied beneath the vent and a hole drilled for a smoke stack that will be installed later on.


Woo-hoo!  It's time to start joining walls together.  One side wall to the front and the other side wall to the rear.  Nice an square.


After the two assemblies are glued together the other walls can be glued in place.


More in a few...

[ReadingBob]

I cut the underside roof out of the cardboard stock and trimmed it to fit.  Nobody's going to be able to see this (except the little people loading and unloading freight) so it doesn't require painting or weathering.


Now it's time to work on the roof cards.  First, prior to painting, some small patches are glued in place as indicated on the cards.


These are cut from the rolled roofing material included in the kit that will be used elsewhere.


Next the roof gets painted using a combination of Reefer Gray and Grimy Black.  I just dipped my brush in both and started painting.  The paint mixed as I brushed it on.


After paint dried I hit with my A&I mix.  The card stock warped a bit but it straightened out later when bracing was applied the roofs were glued in place.


That's all I have for today.  Making progress on the main structure.  Lot's to do though.  Loading docks, stairs, porches, etc.  Plus the small coffee shop.  FSM kits are a real joy to build!      

[Janbouli]

Again thank you for the step by step Bob.

[Opa George]

Great to follow along, Bob. Nice work.
--George

[Jerry]

Nice work Bob.  Thanks for the how to!

Jerry

[jimmillho]

Great Build Bob.

Jim

[S&S RR]

Fantastic work Bob! I sure wish I would have had your build threads when I was starting out in this hobby. You should have been a teacher. I learn something new with every thread that I have followed. By the way I bought some of the metal glue caps from a few pages back and they work great.  The plastic ones I was using worked for a few weeks and then the hole got to big from me getting the dried up glue off them.  The metal tips are going to last awhile.

[ReadingBob]

Again thank you for the step by step Bob.

You're welcome Jan and thanks for following along!

[ReadingBob]

Great to follow along, Bob. Nice work.
--George

Thanks George!  I'm glad to have you following along.  By the way, I'm really enjoying your Terminal build thread.