Tool/jig for cross-cutting sheet goods to the same size

Started by deemery, December 15, 2021, 04:54:01 PM

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deemery

For my B&M boxcars project, I want to be able to cross-cut a bunch of pieces of scribed siding to the same size (car body height.)  Here's my thought for a tool to do that.

I'll trim a piece of cutting mat to a bit more than 6", shown by the red line.  I'll dado the slot for T-Track into the fixture.  There's a wood stop glued to the right of the cutting mat, perpendicular to the bottom of the fixture.  I also glued a strip of wood along the bottom of the fixture, to hold the base of the square so the blade sits flat on the scribed sheathing. 

The T-Track stop is set behind the blade, because that's the more likely direction of thrust when I'm cutting along the blade of the machinist's square with an X-Acto knife. 

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

GPdemayo

Excellent idea Dave.....every task is easier with the proper tools.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

ACL1504

Now let's see all those boxcars coming out of the shop!

Tom
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

postalkarl


deemery

Here's an update.  I got the longer square, but the T-Track parts I ordered weren't the right size.  The new parts are on order.  For the initial cut, I use the 'inside measure' aspect of my digital calipers, then lock the square into position with the clamp.  For subsequent cuts, I just use the initial piece. 

Also note the little piece of styrene between the wood and the square.  I noticed some problems when the edge of the siding was at the edge of the cutting mat, this styrene piece puts a "landing ramp" for the single-edge razor I'm using to cut the siding. 

All of the wood parts are done on the first/prototype build of the cars, I learned a lot and built some more jigs (including one for drilling the truss rod NBWs.)

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

jerryrbeach

Dave,


Looking forward to how this looks and works with the T track you have on order.  Waiting somewhat (im)patiently.  I really like using tools and fixtures that make cutting sheetwood; and other construction tasks more accurate as well as saving time.
Jerry

deemery

Here's the 'final' jig set-up, now that I have the right size T-Track parts.  I still like clamping the square down to the jig and to the table beneath, keeps everything from moving around.

That's a .030 x .125 styrene strip between the wood and the square. 

Works great!

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

jerryrbeach

Dave,


I was having trouble picturing how this would work.  Add the T track and it becomes crystal clear to me.  Excellent in both design and execution.  I am thinking I should build one myself.  Thanks for posting and sharing your fixture.
Jerry

deemery

Jerry, it works pretty well without the T-Track, just using the clamp at the bottom to hold the square in place.  If you don't have a router/dado set, that's worth considering.  The primary concern is getting a smooth cut at the bottom where the square runs, and then gluing the stop at a precise right angle to that bottom cut.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

jerryrbeach

Dave,


I glued a small cutting mat to a piece of laminate flooring and use a machinist square toget straight and square cuts.  However I have to measure each time and usually end up sanding paired sides until they match precisely.  Seems to me if I glue a baseboard underneath this mat, add a stop and a thin piece so the square "bottoms out' so I can clamp it i would save myself a lot of time.  I do have a router, so I can cut the slot for a piece of T track.  Once again, thanks for showinghow you made and use this fixture.
Jerry

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