FOS freebie and new tools

Started by Zephyrus52246, December 23, 2023, 11:28:06 AM

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Zephyrus52246

Here are the colors used.  The dark grey was drybrushed onto the dark blue pieces to slightly weather them.  I first used the blue grey hunterline on the walls, then used the lighter blue with a bit of water mixed in.  After drying nailholes were added and some boards cut/lifted.  Over stain with the light grey was then used, which was also used on the dark blue pieces and the signs after they were applied.  I apply the signs by gently sanding the faces with 1000 grit sandpaper before cutting them out.  

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

I'm a member of the "there's never too much bracing" fraternity.  One wall had warping problems which were solved by adding horizontal beams on top of the verticals.  I should have brace the edges with horizontals to start with and then added the verticals in between.  ::) 

Jeff 

 

Zephyrus52246

The front was a bit of conundrum.  I didn't think just edge gluing them to the front would be strong enough, so I added a small stripwood piece (brown) to the top so they could have another side to glue.  Also ran a brace along the bottom.

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

I used my old metal plate (it's much shinier now), and started gluing the walls together. 

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Wow, it looks like an actual building now.  I need to add the trim strip over the doors.

Jeff

ReadingBob

Looking good, Billy Ray! (Louis Winthorpe III)  ;D
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Keep It Rusty

The Ultimation tools are fantastic! Not quite "game changers" (other tools existed before) but they are certainly the best for what they do. The quality of them are second to none.

jerryrbeach

Dr. Jeff,

That's coming along nicely.  Your signs really stand out on the blue you chose for your main color.  I'm looking forward to your continued progress.
Jerry

Rollin

The pictures of the bracing are really helpful, since I have this kit as well. The thin laser-cut details like doors and windows can be a real challenge as one tries to keep the structure strong and square.

deemery

Colors and posters look great!

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Zephyrus52246

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen.  The kit is finished.  After the walls were done, the roof was next.  The kit comes with the usual tarpaper, but I thought it would better with shingles.  I found some Northeastern shingles which were a good color and glued them on with Elmer's.  They give you a ridge cap which helps a lot.  A roof sign part went missing for a few days, but I found it and finished that.  The next problem was the chimney. 

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

You'd think a 3D printed part would be straight.  Anyway I tried using some stripwood to even it out, but there was too big a gap, so I measured the approximate roof angle with a protractor, and using the Ultimation sanding tool, sanded a piece of bracing to see how close I was, which was about 2 degrees off.  So I reset the tool and sanded off the base of the chimney.  This was glued on and some tar applied around the base, finishing the kit.  The roof will get some weathering eventually.  Until it's permanently placed on the layout, I don't like to fool with the roofs as the kit my be handled several times.

Jeff

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Zephyrus52246

Overall, except for the chimney and bracing issues, a good little kit.  Here is where it may go on the layout.  Not sure it quite fits, but we'll leave it and see what happens.  

Those who followed my layout thread up to 2 years ago note there hasn't been a lot of progress, but the streets are done and sidewalks are done in the city.  the barren section of the mountain needs finishing as well as the area to the left which isn't visible, but some progress has been made.  

Thanks for following!

Jeff

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