I've decided this will be my next build on the forum, how appropriate "a taxi". This build should cover how to assemble most "mid century" vehicles sold by Sylvan including the pickups. Here's what comes in the kit and the the taxi decals are in the instructions. I'll post more photos later.
I will follow your effort on this small kit.
I 've ever be curious about sylvan model and use it as substitute of Jordan vehicle for the 1920-1930 series....
Eric Québec city
I'm in..........
thanx
Bob
I'm in for this too Sylvan has some of the best 1/87 vehicles around
Quote from: Mecrr22 on April 16, 2016, 01:49:33 PM
I'm in for this too Sylvan has some of the best 1/87 vehicles around
Yepper, I'll be following along on the build.
Tom ;D
Count me in also......Just love watching a Master at his craft!!
I also will be watching and learning.
Jim
Very appropriate build Raymo - I will be following along.
I just posted a picture of some of Dan's work over on the F&SM Thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160416173413.jpeg)
I love the Sylvan kits.
Eric,Bob,Scott,Tom,Donato,Jim,John and Andy, Squeeze in and find a seat and I'll get you to the end of this build. Thanks for following along.
We'll start with cleaning up the frame. Cut off the 2 "L" shaped lugs off the rear hubs and the filler sprues from the front bumper to the front hubs and the 2 sticking off the front bumper with a sprue cutter. The rest of the frame can get cleaned up with a #11 knife by scraping the flash off. Some final clean up can be done with a fine or medium sanding stick.
Be careful around the bumper areas not to cut them off. I've started to clean up frames where air bubbles show up in the bumper supports and it doesn't take much before they break off. At that point it's easier to contact Sylvan for a new frame. I've tried to fix one and it wouldn't hold. This frame had a few air bubbles that appeared in the bumper and a few in the interior. I filled these with some red automotive putty. 90% of the interior won't be seen when finished, but my personal preference is to fix the interior holes.
Frame cleaned up with putty drying.
Quote from: Raymo on April 16, 2016, 07:17:14 PM
Eric,Bob,Scott,Tom,Donato,Jim,John and Andy, Squeeze in and find a seat and I'll get you to the end of this build. Thanks for following along.
Did anyone else notice he hasn't started the meter? :)
Onto the body. Start by cleaning up the window openings with the #11 knife. This flash is tissue thin and rolls right out of the opening.
Quote from: BandOGuy on April 16, 2016, 07:36:13 PM
Quote from: Raymo on April 16, 2016, 07:17:14 PM
Eric,Bob,Scott,Tom,Donato,Jim,John and Andy, Squeeze in and find a seat and I'll get you to the end of this build. Thanks for following along.
Did anyone else notice he hasn't started the meter? :)
What's one more free ride in the State of Massachusetts ;D
I like this foam backed sand paper for cleaning up the mold ( mould for my European and Canadian friends) lines around the bottom of the body casting. I've bought this at craft stores in the wood refinishing section and at a local chain of hardware stores. Most have been in the 220-280 sanding grit but I did buy a bunch made for the automotive industry that was 1000 grit at a discount store.
D.R.,
Like Tom L., I'm all eyes on this build too! Nice work on your previous builds also!
Thanx Thom...
I also use these narrow sanding files and pointed sanding sticks made by Alpha Abrasives for cleaning up the window areas. The finer grit the better. I bought these at Hobby Lobby but Walther's also carries this line.
Photos showing these items being used. The sanding files are almost a perfect fit to the window openings. You can see how the pointed sticks work for the small windows.
On this model there is a notch where the body fits onto the frame. The trick is to get this to fit as tight as possible. This took a few times to get it to fit right.
Now the body and frame have been cleaned up. On to the little parts.....
Quote from: tct855 on April 16, 2016, 07:57:01 PM
D.R.,
Like Tom L., I'm all eyes on this build too! Nice work on your previous builds also!
Thanx Thom...
Thom, There's room for you and you bag of tricks in the front seat, You going to Holden or Peebitty...
Quote from: Raymo on April 16, 2016, 08:09:33 PM
Quote from: tct855 on April 16, 2016, 07:57:01 PM
D.R.,
Like Tom L., I'm all eyes on this build too! Nice work on your previous builds also!
Thanx Thom...
Thom, There's room for you and you bag of tricks in the front seat, You going to Holden or Peebitty...
....we all know where he's going......
No need to Choose between Holden or Peebitty, I'll be a grizzly and go to both. Some things in life just require personal attention right. I'm just lucky I don't get thrown out of both. ha. Thom...
Great work so far Dan! I'll be keeping an eye on this build. Lots of excellent tips/techniques.
Dan,
Great tips on building a Sylvan vehicle.
Tom ;D
I'm following along too Dan! I didn't pick any of these up at the EXPO though I meant to (there were far too many goodies to choose from and not enough cash in the wallet ::) ).
Mark, Tom,and Bob thanks for following along. Bob, my go to guy for Sylvan vehicles is American Prototype Hobbies in Conn.. Frank Pisante is an old over the road truck driver that sells 1/87 vehicles in his retirement. He built a lot of the vehicles on the original section of Howard Zanes layout. WARNING, When you buy some of his older stock, the boxes have a smokey smell. He'll send you an e-mail if he doesn't have a vehicle in stock.
I've cleaned up all the little pieces using the #11 scraping action being careful not to break off the sprues.
When drilling out the steering wheel for the piece of wire that represents the steering shaft I use a piece of the foam backed sand paper to support it while drilling it with my pin vice. Then I glue the wire in place and set it aside to dry.
While I'm on the steering, there's a small divet in the floorboard that I drilled out for the steering shaft
The top photo shows the figure that comes with the kit for the driver. The detail is awful but like I said earlier,You really can't see the interior so I'll use it so it won't be an empty car on the road. I'll also use this other casting for backseat passengers. If you want better detailed passengers I'd use seated people from one of the figure companies.
Here's the dash board after cleaning off the flash. I just tack it into place and then fit the body to the chassis till I get it to fit to the body like in the last photo. Once I like the fit I hit it with more glue
After that has dried, I cut down the wire and attach steering to the chassis. I dry fit this a few times with the driver figure for length before I glue in place.
I've marked the center of roof for the TAXI sign. There are divets on each side of the hood for the headlights and on the rear fender I made a pencil mark for the rear tail light about an 1/8 of an inch up from the bottom.
Because the thicknesses vary in the molding (moulding :D ) it's easier to find a drill bit close to the parts your working with for these specific items. I've cut down the sprue so they don't hit each other when installed.
Body with the details installed.
Now the body and chassis sub assembly's are done. Set them aside till they're ready to wash.
Now onto wheels and tires. Start with the wheels. Cut off the the sprue and use a #11 knife to cut the edge on the inside edge of the wheel
Now take a tire which is molded with some type of rubber resin. I cut off the sprue as close to the tire as possible
Then with the #11 blade, I roll out the flash from the inside of the tire.
This photo shows a seam scraper I purchased from Squadron Models. The shaft is the perfect size to hold the tire in shape for the final cleanup. I've also have used a paint brush handle for this.
I then use a sanding stick to sand the flash off the tread of the tire. The trick is to do it with out creating flat spots on the tire.
You now have a completed wheel and tire assembly. 3 more and then off to paint. :)
Quote from: Raymo on April 22, 2016, 02:52:39 PM
Because the thicknesses vary in the molding (moulding :D ) it's easier to find a drill bit close to the parts your working with for these specific items. I've cut down the sprue so the don't hit each other when installed.
Dan,
These little headlight parts are cute, but very easily lost. If you are using tweezers to handle them, be reallllll careful. Clare says they go so to someplace in headlight heaven. I guess he has to replace a lot of them from people like me!
Frank / Erieman
Dan
Great thread - I will be referring back to it often.
Yep...
This is a really cool thread.
thanx
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstchillin.org%2Fnickdemarco%2Ftoocool.gif&hash=f05919a18616d2157c3933697cb0ba19f0c6e8ab)
Raymo,
Great stuff my friend. Thanks for all the "how to" in the thread.
Tom ;D
Dan, thanks for the how-to. I just ordered three kits from American Prototype. One question I have for you is in the instructions it say's to use a cleaner to get rid of the mold release. I have tried washing with dish detergent but still get a few spots that won't cover with paint. Can you tell me what you use get rid of the mold release and where I can get some. Thanks
Dan,
Watching your vehicle come together as a new ride is needed at my end. Car just turned 219k tonight...:)
Tom
Did this thread get moved, or just die off?
Jim F
No I need to finish it, sometimes life gets in the way. Should be able to get back at it next week. Raymo
Dan,
Fully understand the 'life getting in the way' thing. Was just curious, as I'm about to dig out a few Sylvan kits and make a start on them, something to work on while my other projects are on hold.
Jim
Raymo,
I'm still all eyes. I'll copy cat what ACL1504 said. 1 question, is this car you're building the car you'll use to taxi around the members at the next expo? Thanx Thom...
Maybe a taxi this size for the Expo.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 28, 2016, 08:45:07 AM
Maybe a taxi this size for the Expo.
Jeff
Who's gonna pay for the GAS that sucker's gonna use?
Quote from: Erieman on April 22, 2016, 03:33:40 PM
Quote from: Raymo on April 22, 2016, 02:52:39 PM
Because the thicknesses vary in the molding (moulding :D ) it's easier to find a drill bit close to the parts your working with for these specific items. I've cut down the sprue so the don't hit each other when installed.
Dan,
These little headlight parts are cute, but very easily lost. If you are using tweezers to handle them, be reallllll careful. Clare says they go so to someplace in headlight heaven. I guess he has to replace a lot of them from people like me!
Frank / Erieman
This is true Frank. I usually find a half dozen when I clean my desk.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 22, 2016, 08:01:04 PM
Dan
Great thread - I will be referring back to it often.
Thanks John.
Quote from: bparrish on April 23, 2016, 01:18:12 PM
Yep...
This is a really cool thread.
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob.
Quote from: Donato on April 23, 2016, 05:04:49 PM
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jstchillin.org%2Fnickdemarco%2Ftoocool.gif&hash=f05919a18616d2157c3933697cb0ba19f0c6e8ab) (http://www.jstchillin.org/nickdemarco/toocool.gif)
Thanks Donato.
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 23, 2016, 05:46:50 PM
Raymo,
Great stuff my friend. Thanks for all the "how to" in the thread.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.
Quote from: ak-milw on April 23, 2016, 07:12:47 PM
Dan, thanks for the how-to. I just ordered three kits from American Prototype. One question I have for you is in the instructions it say's to use a cleaner to get rid of the mold release. I have tried washing with dish detergent but still get a few spots that won't cover with paint. Can you tell me what you use get rid of the mold release and where I can get some. Thanks
Andy, I'll be covering your question next. Thanks.
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on April 25, 2016, 02:08:54 AM
Dan,
Watching your vehicle come together as a new ride is needed at my end. Car just turned 219k tonight... :)
Tom
Tom, My truck is at 130,000 and it's falling apart just as fast. ;D Thanks.
Quote from: JimF on May 28, 2016, 04:28:52 AM
Dan,
Fully understand the 'life getting in the way' thing. Was just curious, as I'm about to dig out a few Sylvan kits and make a start on them, something to work on while my other projects are on hold.
Jim
Jim, As promised the next installment begins. Thanks for lighting a fire under my butt!
Quote from: tct855 on May 28, 2016, 08:08:32 AM
Raymo,
I'm still all eyes. I'll copy cat what ACL1504 said. 1 question, is this car you're building the car you'll use to taxi around the members at the next expo? Thanx Thom...
Thom, wouldn't that be an "attention getter"!
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 28, 2016, 08:45:07 AM
Maybe a taxi this size for the Expo.
Jeff
Jeff, I don't think there's an area near George's that I could park that thing! Thanks
Alright kids it's back to the build time. I use Super Clean straight from bottle to clean the castings. This stuff is pretty caustic so wear gloves because it will take a layer of skin off. I have a smaller spray bottle that I use to spray it on the castings and then scrub them with a cheap tooth brush.
Raymo's trying to hide a deep, dark secret. In Massachusetts, no one worries about parallel parking. If the space isn't there, they just double park it and turn on the flashers. That is the only time in Massachusetts you will see a blinkah illuminated on a vehicle other than when it's going through state inspection.But this is still a GREAT thread. Thanks, Raymo.
I forgot to mention that I buy the cleaner at Wal Mart, but I've seen it at the larger chain auto parts stores. Home Depot sells a similar product made by ZEP.
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 09, 2016, 07:16:02 PM
Raymo's trying to hide a deep, dark secret. In Massachusetts, no one worries about parallel parking. If the space isn't there, they just double park it and turn on the flashers. That is the only time in Massachusetts you will see a blinkah illuminated on a vehicle other than when it's going through state inspection.But this is still a GREAT thread. Thanks, Raymo.
Thanks Mr. Stevens. You have the nice people down on the south shore. Up here in the mill towns they don't use the "blinkah", but the will leave the left hand doors wide open!
I have a small tea strainer that I put the wheels, tires, and other small parts in to wash them. I spray the Super Clean directly in it.
I usually paint a few cars at a time, so I'll wash them all at the same time. I did these in a CLEAN old fast food container.
After they've been scrubbed down, they're giving a bath of luke warm water and left to air dry for a few days.
I use clothes pins to hold the bodies for painting. I try to find one's that fit snug in the body, if they don't use a piece of strip wood to widen the tips. Using the spring side would put to much tension on the casting, and it would break.
Those little chip board flyers they pass out at train shows work great to hold the wheels for painting. ;D
Someone in the hobby gave me a bunch of this Testors primer to use. It says laquer, but it smells more like the urethane paints I've used in the body shop.
And here's the body in primer, next installment... Paint!
Dan
It's great to see you back at this project! I think we have all been getting overwhelmed with the non-modeling side of life lately. Anyway I'm enjoying the thread - currently sitting on my boat waiting for the fish to decide to bite. ;)
Thanks Raymo, that's exactly what I needed to know. The wife works in the eye care department at Wally World so I will have her pick me up some.
Dan, I wasn't trying to be pushy, but if my asking helped prompt a return, I'm glad. :)
I was afraid the project had stopped in mid stride, and would be like many other threads on forums, just left behind. Especially as you were close to my biggest stalling point, the painting aspect.
Thanks for continuing.
Jim
Enjoying this build Raymo. I always have trouble cleaning the flag from the tires will try your technique. I think you should reserve a Hummer Limo for the next Expo. Scott H
Quote from: S&S RR on June 09, 2016, 08:15:47 PM
Dan
It's great to see you back at this project! I think we have all been getting overwhelmed with the non-modeling side of life lately. Anyway I'm enjoying the thread - currently sitting on my boat waiting for the fish to decide to bite. ;)
Thanks again John. Hopefully you've had a bite by now.
Quote from: ak-milw on June 09, 2016, 09:31:59 PM
Thanks Raymo, that's exactly what I needed to know. The wife works in the eye care department at Wally World so I will have her pick me up some.
Thanks again for following Andy.
Quote from: JimF on June 10, 2016, 06:08:37 AM
Dan, I wasn't trying to be pushy, but if my asking helped prompt a return, I'm glad. :)
I was afraid the project had stopped in mid stride, and would be like many other threads on forums, just left behind. Especially as you were close to my biggest stalling point, the painting aspect.
Thanks for continuing.
Jim
No problem Jim. I'll be the first to admit I need to be hit with a big stick to get moving sometimes! ;D
Quote from: Mecrr22 on June 10, 2016, 04:35:36 PM
Enjoying this build Raymo. I always have trouble cleaning the flag from the tires will try your technique. I think you should reserve a Hummer Limo for the next Expo. Scott H
That's the nice thing about these build threads Scott, there's always tricks to teach and learn from.
I was able to paint the taxi yesterday. Tru-Color paints were used, C&O Yellow for the body, Black on the frame, and Swift Reefer Red for the wheels. Next up , painting the details.....
Dan, did you paint using a airbrush?
Jim
Where's the stick? Raymo has gone silent again...
...guess I can't complain, I went silent for 2 years!!!
Quote from: Rail and Tie on June 26, 2016, 09:31:35 PM
Where's the stick? Raymo has gone silent again...
...guess I can't complain, I went silent for 2 years!!!
I have been working on it Darryl, I just haven't taken the time to post pictures. :)
Time for an update... This build is getting close to being done. These photos show the frame/interior. I've painted the seats DRG&W Building Brown, the steering wheel Aged White, the Tru Color yellow on the dash and Bright Silver on the bumpers. I've also have painted areas on the frame seen (just barely) at the wheel wells Grimy Black Paints are Polly S except for the yellow and Silver ( Floquil)
The body had all the areas that would be chrome with the Bright Silver, headlights, grille, door handles, hood ornament, trunk handle and hinges. The tail light lens was also painted for a base for the taillight red. The running boards and center post on windshield were painted Grimy Black. Also the taxi light on the roof was painted Bright White.
While I had the Bright Silver out, I painted the hubcaps and outer trim rings on the wheels. After the dried, I attached the wheels to the tires. A small drop of thin super glue on the backside of the tire holds them all together.
I let them set for a couple hours and the attached them to the frame. Another drop of the thin super glue at the backside holds them to the frame
That's it for now. Up next, decals and passengers. :)
Nice job on the round wheels!! Mine never turn out that round or even on the paint or tires to rims.
Quote from: Rail and Tie on July 14, 2016, 01:57:13 PM
Nice job on the round wheels!! Mine never turn out that round or even on the paint or tires to rims.
Thanks Darryl.
Back to the build, I painted the taxi driver "Leo" and the " Battleing Bickerson's" with some craft paint and gave them a wash with some A&I. They're not the greatest looking people but you'll hardly be able to see them when finished.
Next, I applied the supplied decals to the body. Sylvan's decals take a while to release from the backer. Make sure there's plenty of water on the surface or they WILL rip apart.
I gave the interior sides a quick coat of the DRG&W Brown. This doesn't need to be done, just personal preference.
Before giving everything a coat of flat finish, I gave the grille a coat of the Detailer (black) which I've covered in other builds I've done.
It was a low humidity day around here so it was a good time to hit everything with a flat finish.
A few hours later, I started filling the window opening's with Clear Gallery Glass.
That's it for now. We're almost done! :D
Looking really nice Dan !! And thanks for the SBS through the process, much appreciated ....
Catch you soon,
--Paul
Thanks Paul.
Looks good! I hope it gets a predominant place on the layout.
TerrrriffficcccK ....!!!!
Waiting to see how the "people" get installed.....Hope they have enough for the fare ..... and a BIG tip!!!!
Wow, this is really coming out great! Thanks for all of the pics.
Quote from: M&K Railway on July 22, 2016, 08:33:14 AM
Looks good! I hope it gets a predominant place on the layout.
Thanks, I just need to figure who's layout. :D
Quote from: Donato on July 22, 2016, 02:39:23 PM
TerrrriffficcccK ....!!!!
Waiting to see how the "people" get installed.....Hope they have enough for the fare ..... and a BIG tip!!!!
Thanks Donato,you and them will be glued to your seats waiting for this build to be done. ;D
Quote from: MAP on July 23, 2016, 06:44:31 AM
Wow, this is really coming out great! Thanks for all of the pics.
Thanks Mark.
Quote from: Raymo on July 23, 2016, 07:44:24 AM
Quote from: Donato on July 22, 2016, 02:39:23 PM
TerrrriffficcccK ....!!!!
Waiting to see how the "people" get installed.....Hope they have enough for the fare ..... and a BIG tip!!!!
Thanks Donato,you and them will be glued to your seats waiting for this build to be done. ;D
You're gonna need a really BIG bucket of glue for my fat a** .....
Thread bump so it can be moved.
Quote from: Raymo on June 19, 2017, 09:36:38 AM
Thread bump so it can be moved.
Dan,
It got bumped and moved but where?
Tom ;D
Raymond:
Taxis is looking good.
Karl
Tom, all my builds were moved to the Vehicle Building board that was created earlier in the year. I just realized that there were no final photos added to the thread. I'll get this done after my vacation.
Danny,
Is that the coffee drinkin', loon/duck/fish watchin' vacation? ;) You da man! Thanx Thom... still on the other side watchin' too! ;D