Although I'm not really starting on this build quite yet I thought I'd start the thread and at least show you what I'm planning on building for the challenge. It will be the Bar Mills Dock House at Cundy Harbor (http://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=176&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=999&vmcchk=1&Itemid=999) which is one of several structures included in the Cundy Harbor collection. It's the one on the right in the picture on the box (although my flash washed out the picture a bit, sorry about that :-[).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250916100325-164221859.jpeg)
And here's what's hiding inside the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250916100325-16423552.jpeg)
I'll have more updates when I actually start building this puppy. ;)
I'm building this one for John (Cuse). I hope to get the Dockhouse done by the end of the challenge. But I may get carried away and build the remaining structures too. :o We'll see how it goes. ;) John had pulled out the parts from the boathouse and separated them from the carrier sheets. They're in the baggie on the right.
Sounds like a fun build - I will be watching.
I'll be watching this as well, I always seem to pick up a useful tidbit or tip on your builds. 8)
Jeff
Bob,
Keep on building.......I will be watching cause I know you will excel 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jim
Bob,
This will be another wonderful build by Reading Bob! Count me in on following.
Is this still the correct scale for John? Hee, hee, hee.
Tom ;D
Wow!!! I love this one!!!
I asked for it on the model shop, but the kit never arrived :(
So, I will be following this one sure!
Just hope you build it very, very and very weathered....:)
Looks like a real nice kit , looking forward to the build.
I NEVER miss a ReadingBob build......
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 25, 2016, 11:22:58 AM
Bob,
This will be another wonderful build by Reading Bob! Count me in on following.
Is this still the correct scale for John? Hee, hee, hee.
Tom ;D
I read some where that John was switching to S scale.
Hi bob:
Thats a great kit I will also be watching.
Karl
I'll be looking in too..... :)
Quote from: S&S RR on September 25, 2016, 07:38:30 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 25, 2016, 11:22:58 AM
Bob,
This will be another wonderful build by Reading Bob! Count me in on following.
Is this still the correct scale for John? Hee, hee, hee.
Tom ;D
I read some where that John was switching to S scale.
Actually, no he isn't. I posted a comment to him to hold off on the weathering of his new loco as next year he may be in "S" scale. Tongue in cheek comment as he changes scales as often as I redo my layout.
Tom
Bob,
The Dock House is my favorite structure in the kit. I will be following.
Vilius
Thanks for all the interest! I did get started on this one this past weekend so here we go....
After clearing off my workbench for a new build the first thing I do is toss the old single edge razor blade I was using on the last build and pull out a new one. I do the same with the blade in my X-Acto knife. I may have to replace them during the build if the start to lose their edge but I always like to start with nice, sharp blades in the handles. The only exception I have to this rule is the chisel blade I have in one handle. I don't use that very often so it doesn't need to be replaced as frequently as the other two. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182445-166212198.jpeg)
Just to keep track of the walls while referring back to the instructions during bracing I wrote the number (per the templates in the instructions) on the back of each wall in pencil. This isn't really necessary but it makes things a little easier during certain processes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182446-16648118.jpeg)
Next I removed the walls from the carrier sheets using my new single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182446-166491497.jpeg)
After the walls have been separated from the carrier sheet I lightly sand them on an emery board to 'square up' the edges.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182446-166501723.jpeg)
I then started gluing the bracing in place per the templates. For bracing that runs along the edge of the wall I used a square to make sure I lined it up with the edge and don't have any bracing extending beyond the end of the wall (not that I've ever done that before ::) ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182446-16651369.jpeg)
A little more in a moment...
I put some weigh on the bracing to hold in place while the glue sets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182541-16652631.jpeg)
Then I trim the bracing to length using my single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182541-166532358.jpeg)
If the wood is too tough or my fingers too sore/weak to effectively cut the bracing with the razor blade I revert a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle for a little be better leverage/grip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182542-16654550.jpeg)
Finally. after the bracing was finished, I applied a light coat of Hunterline Light Gray weathering mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031016182542-16655103.jpeg)
That's all I got done this weekend. More to follow if the Hurricane allows it later on this week. ;)
Hi Bob:
Looking good so far. I'll be watching your build.
Karl
Bob,
Looks very good. This is a neat kit and will make a fantastic addition to John's layout.
Tom ;D
Yep! Nice work so far ;)
Thanks gang. I'll add one comment. Lately my standard operating procedure has been to clean up all the castings, prime them and paint them before I start the on the walls. I like having all that stuff ready to go when I start the actual 'build' part of the build. But I didn't do that this time. That'll be coming up soon though. You can only go so far before you need doors, windows, etc. added to the walls. ;D
Looking good Bob. have fun building that kit.
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Bob
As far as I'm concerned your build threads are second to none. I have a question, you must have your camera setup on a tripod next to your bench - are you activating a shutter release with your foot? I find taking pictures of a build to be a great distraction and usually forget to take pictures as I go.
OUTSTANDING Work as usual Bob.....I'm hitching a ride on this one....
Bob, your builds are always informative and detailed. I also must say that you have the prettiest fingers on the forum! :o :o
How do you take those great shots of each step because I count 10 fingers being used, so which one is triggering the camera???
I think I want to know... ;D
I believe there is a function on the camera that is a time release. I have one on my little Sony Cybershot.
Tom ;D
Thanks to all who posted. Tom is correct. I have an older camera on my workbench that has some buttons on the back. I know, by feel, which button is the self timer button. I reach over, push it, push the shutter release and then I have several seconds to get back to work on what I was working on before the camera takes the picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071016145947-167922056.jpeg)
It's an old Sony Cybershot mounted on an el cheapo tripod. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071016145947-167961942.jpeg)
Out of curiosity I looked at my newer Canon PowerShot and found the Self Timer function. I had to go into the functions and set it up on the touch screen. I can turn it on but to trigger it I have to touch the screen in a very specific spot. That'd be hard to do reaching over the camera like I do.
I'm very, very fortunate that my lovely wife let's me keep my workbench (a drafting/craft table) in a corner in the living room. I wheel it over to my spot on the recliner when I want to work on things. I only have to wheel it out into the spare bedroom when we have company coming over. It's not as good as a permanent workbench nor is it quite as comfortable to lean forward while sitting in a recliner to work on things but it is in the house and in Florida the A/C is priceless! :D I have a workbench in the garage but it's too dang hot out there to work on things for very long.
Looks like that setup really works for you Bob. Have fun working on that kit. I know I really enjoy working on Bar Mills Kits in N Scale. I have quite a few on my layout.
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
I always wondered who was taking your pictures ;) ;) ;) ;)
Jim
Bob looks good ill be following along.
Holy Cow, there are sure a lot of builds going on! I'm on here everyday (if briefly) and I just discovered pages of builds pushed down the active list. This one, in particular, I've gotta keep an eye on ;)
Such a cool design by Bar Mills. I can't wait to watch it grow!
John
Great build so far! I have to "ditto" everyone else's comments about your threads being second to none with details and photos. Keep 'em coming.
Bob,
I have this kit to build so I will be following with interest.
Mike ;)
Bob
Thank you for explaining how you get those great pictures. I'm enjoying the build thread.
Thanks for all the interest gang. I really appreciate the comments. I should have some updates soon. I made some progress yesterday and I'm hoping to make even more today. :D Afterwards it's just a matter of taking the time to crop, resize and upload the photo's.
Quote from: Cuse on October 15, 2016, 09:04:56 AM
Holy Cow, there are sure a lot of builds going on! I'm on here everyday (if briefly) and I just discovered pages of builds pushed down the active list. This one, in particular, I've gotta keep an eye on ;)
Such a cool design by Bar Mills. I can't wait to watch it grow!
John
:D I sure hope you're keeping your eye on this one. :D I'm trying my best to make it worthy of your new layout. ;D
Time an update. :)
Some of the walls had some minor warping (no big deal) so I was checking to ensure that would be corrected when I started gluing them together. The end of one wall, where there is no bracing, will butt up against the bracing from the adjoining wall so that should straighten it out. However, as I was looking at it I noticed that the bracing was going to be a problem. I braced the walls the way the templates in the instructions indicated but if you look closely at where the tip of my X-Acto knife is pointed you'll see that the bracing runs behind the slots cut in the walls for the rafter tails. There's no way to install the precut rafter tail components with that bracing in the way. :o
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184648-17173809.jpeg)
I figured out how much of the bracing needed to be removed so the rafter tail pieces could be installed. I'm lucky I stumbled across this before I glued the walls together. It's a lot easier to cut off a chunk of bracing from just one wall as opposed to when it's already been glued to two walls and inside the building. Don't ask how I know that. :P
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184648-17244586.jpeg)
Since the walls need doors, windows, etc. I took the time to remove all the parts from the sprues and clean them up in preparation from painting. This is normally something I do first but on this build I jumped into the walls first. I did this for a all the components in the Cundy Harbor kit. Not just the Dock House. I have a nifty sprue cutter that I really like for plastic stuff. I also use an old pair of rail nippers for cutting metal castings from sprues but I didn't need them for this kit. I know lot's of people like to paint stuff like this while it's still on the sprue so they can use the sprue as a handle while painting. That's fine too. I just prefer to remove them from the sprue prior to painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184648-172452301.jpeg)
I clean up the edges of the plastic castings with an emery board. If there's an flash on the mullions of the windows (where the emery board doesn't fit) I use the tip of the X-Acto knife to gently scrape it off. For the metal castings I use a small set of files to clean up any unsightliness. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184648-172461550.jpeg)
Once everything was cleaned up I taped some strips of blue painters tape, sticky side up, to an old jelly roll pan and started lining up everything to be primed. I'll skip the actual priming part. I just used a rattle can of gray primer from one of the big box stores. My preference is to airbrush them with Floquil Primer but a.) my compressor is acting up and b.) I'm out of Floquil Primer and they don't make it anymore. :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184648-17247703.jpeg)
Next I started painting the walls. I applied a thin coat of Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix first. Then I started brushing the main walls with Polly Scale Reefer White. Normally I dip my brush in water first and then the paint to thin it a little bit but the bottle of Polly Scale Reefer White I opened was already pretty thin so I didn't bother this time. It went on as a wash so it wasn't solid bright white. Some of the underlying light gray stain was barely visible and toned it down a bit. There's going to be a lot more toning down added though. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184818-172481409.jpeg)
I'll add more to this thread in few moments. ;)
The office walls got a coat of "Yellow Ochre" Americana Craft Paint. I like the paint scheme used in the pilot model so I'm trying to match that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184818-172491130.jpeg)
I painted the inside of the walls black because I plan on installing some LED's inside (and outside) the structure. I don't want the walls to 'glow' when the lights are on so this helps prevent that from happening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184819-17250987.jpeg)
Now it's time to figure out which windows, doors, etc. go where and paint them. The doors made up of layers of laser cut components. The instructions make it pretty easy to locate them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184819-17251617.jpeg)
I did some test fitting of the windows and doors. Only one window didn't fit into the opening in the office wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016184819-17252632.jpeg)
I have an emery board that I trimmed off a chunk of with a heavy duty wire cutters for just such occasions. It fits into the opening so I can sand away a little wood until the window fits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185041-172531949.jpeg)
To weather the walls a bit further I use a sponge that was dipped in some Khaki paint and then dabbed on some paper until most of the paint was removed from the sponge. Then I started dabbing it on the walls to leave 'flecks' of the Khaki paint on the white walls. This is supposed to represent spots where the paint peeled off and the wood underneath is exposed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185041-17254139.jpeg)
More in a minute or two. :)
Next I repeated the 'dry-sponging' technique with light gray craft paint. This flecks of gray are supposed to represent where the white paint came off and a coat of primer underneath was exposed. It doesn't have to be gray. You can use any color that the structure may have previously been painted in by it's owners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185041-17255111.jpeg)
Using a ponce wheel and a steel ruler I applied rows of nail holes. I try to space them 2 scale feet apart but I also try to line them up with the major doors and windows on the wall. Obviously I fall on the "I like 'em" side of the great nail hole debate and I don't mind that they're square and out of scale. :P I do this before I hit the walls with a final wash of A&I because the A&I will settle in the holes and the wood will swell up slightly to shrink them a bit. Plus I want the added darkness in the holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185041-17256637.jpeg)
Using a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle I pry gently slide it under some of the clapboards and lift them up a bit. Depending on how run down you want the structure you can twist it a bit and break off small slivers of the clapboard here and there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185041-172571346.jpeg)
Finally I apply a wash of A&I to the walls. I have a bottle of straight "A" handy to thin it down if it looks too dark as I'm applying it. With white walls it needs to be fairly toned down. As I mentioned before this fills in the nail holes but is also stains any raw wood that was exposed by splintering the clapboards in the previous step.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185144-1725830.jpeg)
Time to add signs to the walls. I cut them out with a nice, sharp X-Acto blade and steel ruler. One of the really nice things about Bar Mills kits is they always supply plenty of signs (duplicates) so if you mess one up you have a back up handy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185144-172591797.jpeg)
I gently sanded the back of the signs to thin the paper a bit. Then I applied a was of A&I to the back. It's darken the front of the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185144-172601472.jpeg)
More in a few minutes. 8)
I thinned some white glue with a little water and smeared it on the back of the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185144-17261310.jpeg)
Then I positioned the sign on the wall (but first I wiped the glue off my 'smearing' finger before handling the sign :D ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185144-17262432.jpeg)
I gently ran my fingernail along clapboards to push it down into the surface of the wall. If you cover it with a piece of clear, thin plastic it's a bit safer. You reduce the chance that you'll snag a rough edge of your fingernail on the sign and tear it. But I chose to live on the edge here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185305-17263701.jpeg)
Another thing that can be done to really give the appearance that the sign is painted on is to slice it, board by board, using a sharp knife and the clapboards as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185305-172641995.jpeg)
Finally I drybrushed some off white over the sign to fade it a bit and highlight the raised edges of the clapboards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185305-17265239.jpeg)
I added the doors and window frames and was ready to start gluing the walls together. Well, here's another place where bracing needed to be removed from one wall. :P ???
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185305-17266109.jpeg)
More in a moment. :)
I lopped off enough of the bracing on the side wall so the peaked wall could be glue in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185305-172671307.jpeg)
Then I started gluing walls together using clamps, magnets and a square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185418-17268963.jpeg)
When the walls were assemble it was time to install the precut rafter tail assemblies. I used the roof as a guide to figure out how far out the rafter tails should extend before gluing them in place. I didn't stain them yet. I'll do that later on with a small brush and I'll just do the exposed pieces. I figure (hope) that'll keep any warping to a minimum.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185418-172691561.jpeg)
I braced the roof card so it'll fit in the opening like a plug. At this point I don't plan on gluing it in place. I hope to keep it removable so the lighting can be accessed for installation and future maintenance.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185418-172702226.jpeg)
Here's the roof in place and that's about where I am with the build at the moment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181016185418-172712335.jpeg)
By now you may have figured out that my evening and weekend attire consists various Expo and forum t-shirts. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for following along!
Mmmmm.....errrrrrh......what I can say?
A simple.....WOW maybe? :) :) :)
Excellent and detailed jod and thread Bob ;)
Great photos, as always!
dave
No question that Bob is the King of the Build Threads- his step-by-step presentations are the best. He not only takes the time to post the large photos, his message is in the form of a caption to each photo- much easier to follow. Way to go Bob. Give that man more forum shirts!
Coming along nicely Bob. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Bob,
One word "Awesome, Fantastic, Superb" Well OK, maybe three words ;D ;D ;D
Jim
Looks great, Bob. I'm glad I'm not the only one who has occasional bracing issues. ::)
Jeff
Bob
The build looks great and I'm very impressed that you keep the paint off the EXPO shirts. Great thread as always.
Thanks for all the kind comments everyone. They're very much appreciated. :)
When I do a build thread like this I try to get myself into the mind frame that someone new to this aspect of the hobby might be following along. So, even though it might be old hat to most/all of the forum regulars, I want to show the techniques I used as well as the mistakes I made along the way. And I do like seeing alternative techniques suggested/posted by y'all for the same reason so keep them coming. :D
John - I have an apron I usually wear when I'm painting or working with the messy stuff. My wife has scolded me too many times for staining my cloths with paint, soldering flux, weathering powders, etc. :D :D :D Thankfully she wasn't around the time I dropped a loaded paint brush and got paint on the both the recliner and the carpet. It came off but I'd have been in real trouble if she'd seen that blunder. :o :o :o
Okay, let's see....where was I? :o Oh yeah! :P It's been a while since I've updated this thread but that doesn't mean I haven't been working on the build. So let me bring you up to date.
After I assembled the walls I realized that following the instructions wasn't a good idea. The instructions indicated that the corner posts should be attached to the side walls which I did. I should have known better. :P I've build a kit or two before this. By trimming the corner posts even with the top of the side wall they don't match the pitch of the end wall. Now, once a rafter has been glued to the bottom of the roof this little faux paus won't be visible but it'll still bug the heck of me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122137-180792169.jpeg)
So I pried off the corner posts and replaced them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122138-181391371.jpeg)
Then trimmed them to fit properly with a single edge razor blade. I didn't have to do this for the two corner posts at the office end of the structure. Just the four on the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122138-18140393.jpeg)
Whenever possible I like to make my roofs removable so I can install lighting and, if need be, access it if maintenance later on. I built a little substructure using black mat board that I traced the end walls onto and 1/8" square strip wood and then glued the cardstock roof to it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122138-18141695.jpeg)
I made sure my little substructure would fit tightly into the top of the building and that the cardstock roof would overhang each end of the structure equally.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122138-181421882.jpeg)
Next up was the little storage shed. The front wall is very small, it has a large opening for doors, and prone to warping but no worries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122251-181431574.jpeg)
More in a moment.... :D
Gluing the rafter tail piece in place helps to straighten out the front wall as does trimming out the door opening with 1/16" strip wood (which I should have done earlier).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122251-181442408.jpeg)
Ooops....if you want the shed doors to be closed they don't fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122251-181451577.jpeg)
A little sanding along the edges with an emery board solves that problem.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122252-18146741.jpeg)
I added blinds to some of the windows using white paper that I painted a light green. Every now and then I take a full size sheet of white printer paper and paint it light green or beige or tan, etc. and use that to cut up and make blinds out of.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122252-181471933.jpeg)
I assemble the office walls after the blinds were installed. I used a square to keep everything lined up while the glue set. IMPORTANT....if you're building this kit both the shed and the office walls do not have 'corner posts'. That means the edge of some the walls will be exposed. So, when you stain/paint/weather the walls do the edges as well! If not, you may end up cursing yourself later on. ;D I got lucky and realized I had to do this before hand. On the shed and the office anyway. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122349-181481284.jpeg)
Next I attached the shed and the office to the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122349-181491542.jpeg)
More in a moment.... :D
It's a little unusual to find strip wood laser cut in a sheet but there are two sheets in this kit that make up the docking material. It did make it easier to work with it this way. I added some texture to the surface with a steel brush I picked up in the welding section of Home Depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122350-181501804.jpeg)
Then I began assembling the dock by adding the 3" by 12" joists to the landing per the template. I didn't glue the pieced to the template. I just held it down with my hand and eyeballed the whole thing as I went along.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122350-181512352.jpeg)
Adding a joist...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122350-1815248.jpeg)
Once all the joists were in place I flipped it over and weighed it down until the glue set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122620-181532179.jpeg)
I started adding the decking and cut various pieces to fit (lining up the cuts with the joists thanks to inspiration from Tom's RSM Delwins Boat & Net Storage build. (http://modelersforum.com/kit-building/rsm-delwins-boat-net-storage-build/) experiences. By the way, I had originally stained the wood with Hunterline Light Gray but felt it was too light so I added a coat of Hunterline Cresote on top of that. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122620-181541742.jpeg)
The extra cuts are a little detail, some of which may get hidden when I add details to the deck, but it doesn't take much effort and it's well worth it in my opinion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122620-181552049.jpeg)
More in a few..... :D
Bob,
Beautiful build and wonderful tutorial. I really enjoy following your threads.
Tom ;D
After gluing a few boards in place I weighed them down for a few minutes. I'm using Pink Flamingo Glue (https://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/glue.html) available from Northeastern Scale Lumber and that stuff grabs hold pretty quick. I really like using it for builds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122620-181561566.jpeg)
Using another tip from Tom's build I gently sanded the surface of the decks with an emery board to give some color variations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122620-181571519.jpeg)
This nest step I thought was a bit weird but I went ahead and tried it. The kit includes 'spacers' that get spot glued on the lower deck first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122735-181581726.jpeg)
I made sure I had them in the right position per the templates.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122735-18159162.jpeg)
When I spot glued the upper deck in place I used a small square and the structure itself to ensure the upper deck was in the right position over the lower deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122735-181601051.jpeg)
Next I used a razor saw to add some texture to the pilings. The kit includes bamboo skewers to be used as pilings. In hindsight I wish I would have replaced them with some dowels of a similar diameter. But hey worked out okay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122735-181612308.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 24, 2016, 10:43:45 AM
Bob,
Beautiful build and wonderful tutorial. I really enjoy following your threads.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! I took some inspiration from your experiences with Delwins. That help quite a bit.
I cut the skewers to the lengths indicated the instructions 2 1/4" and 1.6" (don't you just love it when they give you one measurement using fractions and the other using decimals? I don't have a 1.6" on my ruler. ;D ). Anyway, if you build this kit you'll quickly discover that you need various lengths of the shorter size to get a perfect fit. It all depends on where the sit on the bottom of the lower deck support or reach up to the deck planks themselves. I glued them in place, saw they were to short in some cases and pulled them out, cut new ones, installed them, etc. It was a bit of tedious process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122735-18162381.jpeg)
After carefully removing the spacers (and holding my breath that the pilings would now hold the upper deck in place) I applied a bead of glue to the decking support piece and prepared to glue the structure in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122859-18163905.jpeg)
As I was sliding the structure in place the notches of the upper deck slid into the wall of the structure and I had a perfect fit! :o I was impressed. I would have thought, with the notches for the upper deck, it would have been just as easy to add the two decks to the structure first and then add the pilings but this method work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122859-18164823.jpeg)
Prior to painting I cut the corrugated roofing material in panels. I made a little temporary jig with blue painters tape right on my cutting mat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122859-18165638.jpeg)
Next I assemble the short stairs that connect the lower deck to the upper deck. The kit includes runners that get glued to a spacer to hold them apart and in position for gluing the boards in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122859-18166925.jpeg)
One small problem though. It's hard to see in this picture but the runners are spaced too far apart for the laser cut boards. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116122859-18167235.jpeg)
More in a moment.... :D
Wow. Moving right along and looking good. Great posts Bob!
John
The solution to that problem was to pull one of the runners off of the spacer and trim a bit off with a single edge razor blade. Afterwards everything worked fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123023-181681907.jpeg)
I bought myself a little flashlight to keep at the workbench. One reason was I wanted to use it to check for light leaks. There's an obvious problem with this kit when it comes to light leaks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123023-181691012.jpeg)
Can you see the problem? 8) I'll fix it later but it would have been easier to fix before hand had I been paying attention and realized this was going to happen before gluing the building to the deck. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123023-181701191.jpeg)
I applied 3M Transfer tape to all of the roof cards in preparation for adding the roofing materials.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123023-181712130.jpeg)
And trimmed it to fit. Given that my roofs are removable I can work on them without handling the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123023-181721716.jpeg)
When you peel off the 3M Transfer tapes carrier material you're left with the sticky stuff on the cardstock roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123137-18173273.jpeg)
More in a moment.... :D
Quote from: Cuse on November 24, 2016, 11:09:23 AM
Wow. Moving right along and looking good. Great posts Bob!
John
Thanks John! It's getting there. I hope you still have a spot reserved for it. ;)
Thanks for the detailed posts Bob. Lots of good tips. Jim
I decided to use some Bar Mills shingles I picked up several years ago for some of the roofs as opposed to the shingles included in the kit. One of the reasons I did this was that the kit includes several 'sheets' of peel and stick shingles but there is one structure with shingles on the walls. There's no indication as to how many sheets are needed for this structure vs. the other structure. 1? 2? So rather than paint and weather one sheet and then find out later I needed 2 or risk running short on the other structure because I used too many on this one I substituted these instead. Starting at the bottom and working my way up I applied them in strips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123137-18174327.jpeg)
After every three or fours strips I'd flip the roof over and trim the strips to fit using a pair of Friskar Micro Shears (a really handy tool to have on the workbench).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123137-181752477.jpeg)
There us a cupola and cooler that need to be assembled to add to the roofs. I cut out the parts for both and filed the edges smooth with an emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123138-18176455.jpeg)
I partially assembled both structures prior to painting. You have to decide to paint an weather everything first or do like I did and do a partial assembly first and then paint and weather it or assemble everything first and then paint and weather it. I like being able to paint things that will be recessed before they're in place where it's harder to get to them with a sponge so I chose to do it this way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123138-18177306.jpeg)
Like I rambled on about above. I assemble the core of both units prior to painting and weathering everything and then proceeded to paint them (Reefer White followed by the sponge application of Khaki and Gray craft paints followed by A&I).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-191116123208.jpeg)
And that's were the pictures I uploaded the other day end so I guess I'll stop here. :D ;)
Thanks for following along. I hope to get more done this weekend.
Quote from: jrmueller on November 24, 2016, 11:18:16 AM
Thanks for the detailed posts Bob. Lots of good tips. Jim
You're more than welcome Jim! Thanks for following along. :D
I like the NESL Flamingo Glue and the bottle applicator. I have a piece of music wire that fits into that little tube that I use to clean out the nozzle.
dave
Bob , thank you for the great detail in your build thread, really helps when everything is shown that well.
Quote from: deemery on November 24, 2016, 12:16:46 PM
I like the NESL Flamingo Glue and the bottle applicator. I have a piece of music wire that fits into that little tube that I use to clean out the nozzle.
dave
Yep, that little tip does require some maintenance to keep things flowing but it's great for getting the right amount of glue exactly where you want it. I have some very pointy, fine tweezers that I use to pull the dried up glue out of the tip when it starts to clog up.
Quote from: Janbouli on November 24, 2016, 04:55:28 PM
Bob , thank you for the great detail in your build thread, really helps when everything is shown that well.
Thanks for the kind comment Jan and thanks for following along! :D
Hey Bob
The build is looking awesome. Another great tutorial with a lot of good technique and very nice colors.
Bob I have been following along as always. Just have to say your informative dialog is worth the tuition!!
Quote from: Twopoint2 on November 25, 2016, 09:51:56 AM
Hey Bob
The build is looking awesome. Another great tutorial with a lot of good technique and very nice colors.
Thanks Jim! I really appreciate the nice comments. :D
Quote from: Donato on November 25, 2016, 12:49:35 PM
Bob I have been following along as always. Just have to say your informative dialog is worth the tuition!!
Careful. You're going to give me a big head Donato. I'm already thinking of doubling the price of tuition. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for the kind comments. :D
HI Bob:
Very well done so far. This is a great looking building that I like a lot. Can't wait to see your finished product.
Karl
Bob
Another great build! Your photographs and descriptions of each step are the best I've seen. Thanks again for sharing your builds with us.
The Flamingo Glue and metal tip applicator sure does help to get the glue where you want it. I've used nothing else since you gave me the bottle. Thanks again.
Oh, it sets faster than Elmer's Carpenter glue which is another reason I prefer the pink stuff.
Tom ;D
Thanks gang. Now where was I? Oh yeah...roofing.... :D
I added the corrugated 'metal' panels to the shed roof. The shed roof was covered with 3M Transfer tape so all I had to do was cut the panels to length and stick them in place. I butted the end I cut up against the wall so I wouldn't have to touch up the exposed, bottom edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212420-18804556.jpeg)
Earlier I had posted pictures of some major light leaks in the floor. I took care of them but cutting some scraps of mounting board to fit in the space (and around the bracing) and glued them in place. It wasn't nearly as difficult to get a good fit and drop them in place as I had imagined it might be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212420-18806191.jpeg)
To light up the structure I found that I needed to prep a batch of teeny, tiny LED's with leads. These will be used in the outside gooseneck lamp fixtures. Here's how I do it. The LED's come ten in a pack. So I first cut 10 pieces each of green and red Magnet Wire (http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=45) and prep them. Prepping them starts with stripping the insulation off both ends of each piece of wire. In the past I tried the suggested method of sticking the end of the wire into hot solder and letting the heat burn off the coated insulation. I found that unreliable at best. Randy gave me a tip that I found works much better and is way easier. I gently rub the end of the wire with an emery board to scrap off the insulation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212420-188072397.jpeg)
Next I stick the end of the wire that I stripped the insulation from into a some soldering flux. This is an old tube from Radio Shack (remember when they actually sold more electronic stuff than phones?) that I've had forever.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212420-18808909.jpeg)
Then I apply solder to the end of the wire to tin it. Twenty wires (10 green, 10 red), both ends. It actually takes a little time to get these prepped. I make sure to get a nice clean delineation between the stripped/tinned end of the wire and the insulation. That's important later on when soldering the leads to the LED's. I also don't want to leave large globs of solder on the wire. I want them thinly coated with solder.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212420-188091578.jpeg)
This handy, dandy little LED Wire & Holding Tool (http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=44) is designed to be clamped into a vise. I don't have a vise on the workbench I use in the house so I tape it to a heavy metal square with some blue painters tape. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212526-18810253.jpeg)
More in a few moments....
Now it's time to start handling the LED's. They come packaged in a plastic strip with a clear backing. Carefully peel off the backing to expose one LED and dump it out onto a clear surface.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212526-18811560.jpeg)
Again, I don't follow conventional wisdom here. The LED needs to be placed into the lower clamp on the holding tool. The recommended way to this is to put the LED near the edge of the workbench, face up, and then, with the holding tool upside down and the upper clamp off the edge of the workbench pick up the LED with the lower clamp. Instead of doing that I use some very fine tweezers to gently pick up the LED and place it in the clamp. I actually have one in the tweezers here and you can't even see it. :o
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212526-18812470.jpeg)
Here I am positioning the LED in the lower clamp, soldering pad up. If the LED flies out of either the tweezers or the clamp I don't recommend spending more than .6 seconds looking for it. :P I've never found one. This was the first batch I've attempted to do in quite some time (and I've had cataract surgery since the last batch) so I was a little out of practice. The first one flew out of the clamp never to be seen again. >:(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212526-188131499.jpeg)
I don't worry about getting the positive or negative side out when I clamp it, whichever ends up being on the outer edge determines which color wire I solder to the LED first. Once it's in the clamp I add a little dab of flux to the soldering pad.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212526-188142348.jpeg)
I take a piece of the appropriate colored wire (green for negative or red for positive) and carefully clamp it in the upper clamp so the tinned part of the wire is over the part of the LED I want to solder it to while the insulated part is just off the pad on the inner edge of the LED. By the way, the package the LED's come in tell you how to determine which side is positive and which is negative. Using the low temp soldering pencil and solder that I got from Slim I quickly solder the lead to the LED. It's important to do this quickly as excessive heat can ruin the LED.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212624-188151683.jpeg)
Next I trim the excess wire from the LED using a pair of Friskar Micro Sheers. At this point I have one lead attached to the LED and it's less likely I'll lose it. :D Next I put it back in the holder but in the opposite direction and then attach the other lead using the same process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212624-188161644.jpeg)
More in a moment....
Once the two leads have been attached it's important to test it to make sure the connections are sound. Don't hook it up to a nine volt battery or you'll fry the LED. Use something like this Intelligent LED Tester (http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=43) to safely test it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212624-188171938.jpeg)
I lost one when it flew from the clamp and I had one that I think I overheated but I ended up with 8 out of 10 working by the time I was finished. I've been able to get 10 out of 10 at times but it's delicate work so I don't cry over one or two screw ups on my part. :P
To make the goose neck lamp fixtures I take some .018 Tubing (http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=48) and cut a piece about and inch longer by gently rolling the tubing under a sharp X-Acto blade. I don't press down hard to cut through it as that would crush it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212624-188181894.jpeg)
Even so I file the end after cutting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212624-188192017.jpeg)
And use a very fine drill to make sure the end is open.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212732-188201530.jpeg)
While taking the pictures to show how I did this I got myself out of sequence a bit. I fed one lead through the tube first and then the other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212732-188211765.jpeg)
Then realized I forget to feed them through the lampshade (Tichy) first. D'oh!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212733-188222336.jpeg)
You need to feed the wires through the tubing and get them almost all the way through before you start shaping the tubing to the desired shape. You'll never get them through the tubing once it has some bends in it. I bend mine around a tool I have on my workbench that has roughly the diameter I need.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212733-18823999.jpeg)
More in a moment...
Great work on those lights Bob.....I can't think of a way that I'd be able to solder wires on a nano Led.....now there are 2 things that will make a guy go blind. ;D
Mr. Bob I sure do love following your build threads. There so many tricks and ways to prevent road blocks when building a structure. Thank you for taking the time to share.
It's beautiful so far can't wait to see the finished product.
Bill
I take out the little bit of slack I have (be careful - it's still possible to pull the leads off of the LED's - ask me how I know ::) ) and glue the lamp shade to the tubing before I put a 90 degree bend in the tubing to finish off the gooseneck shape. Once finished I painted the tubing Grimy Black and the lamp shade Dark Green. The underside was already painted Reefer White by the way - I should have mentioned that earlier. :-[
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212733-18824855.jpeg)
To install I drill a hole, using a .018 drill bit, over the door where I want the lamp to be positioned in the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212836-18825761.jpeg)
Then I feed the wires through the hole (still a challenge!)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212836-188271855.jpeg)
And finally the tubing goes into the hole. Whew!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212836-188282159.jpeg)
I made up a little board with copper tape, a circuit limiter and an LED to light the interior. I had places on the board to solder the leads from two of the goose neck light fixtures I used on this building. This building has two separate circuits. Each has one current limiter and three LED's and requires a minimum of 12 volts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212836-188291106.jpeg)
After soldering everything for the first circuit I did a quick test and my interior LED and two exterior lamps lit up (it's all for one and one for all - if one doesn't light neither will the other two). The heavier wire you see in the picture is some left over wire that came with a garage door opener I installed. I used that for the main power line. I'd prefer thinner, more flexible wire but it works and I'm cheap so I use for things like this. The unconnected end is for the second circuit that wasn't installed yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212940-188302350.jpeg)
I needed one light in the 'middle' portion of the structure and the rest in the office building. These all connected to the second circuit which will be in the office so I drilled holes in the wall and fed the wires through the holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212940-188312173.jpeg)
Testing the second circuit after it's been installed and fixed. The first time around I accidentally inverted the wires for the goose neck when soldering them to my homemade circuit board. Whoops! Easy fix though.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212941-188321571.jpeg)
More in a moment.... :D
Thanks Bill and Greg!
I saved the lighting for almost last. After it was installed and working I put the roofs back in place (they're removable) and finished off the remaining details such as the weather vane and windows. Now for the final pictures of the finished structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212941-188331784.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212941-188341383.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188352177.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188361254.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-18837623.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188381498.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-18839467.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213149-188401347.jpeg)
John will have to figure out what to do with that long wire sticking out of his structure. ;D
Here endeth the Build Challenge portion of this Build Thread!
To be continued however, as I plan on building the rest of the Cundy Harbor complex. Next up will be the Bait Boat (cuz I needed something simple after this one!).
Thanks for following along!
Oops...I see some of my pilings got knocked a little out of whack. They have some flex to them and can easily be straightened out when the structure is placed in it's permanent home. :-[
Bob,
Great build thread and well done on the lighting tutorial.
John's is really going to get busy on his layout to show your fantastic structures.
Again, very well done my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 20, 2016, 10:52:12 AM
Bob,
Great build thread and well done on the lighting tutorial.
John's is really going to get busy on his layout to show your fantastic structures.
Again, very well done my friend.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Very much appreciated. :D
I suspect that the wonderful coastal scenery that John is coming up with will really enhance the appearance of this structure. I really enjoy seeing structures surrounded by great scenery.
Excellent job, Bob.
Vilius
Hi Bob:
What can I say but WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wonderful job. Love the lighting.
Karl
Thanks for sharing this great build and all the mini tutorials inside. You are great with the small stuff Bob , would make a great Normal scale modeler, I believe you have done N-scale in the past.
Quote from: TheUkranian on December 20, 2016, 11:29:36 AM
Excellent job, Bob.
Vilius
Thanks Vilius! I really appreciate that. :D
Quote from: postalkarl on December 20, 2016, 11:37:35 AM
Hi Bob:
What can I say but WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wonderful job. Love the lighting.
Karl
Thanks Karl! I really appreciate that! The lighting is an added challenge (and boy can it be a challenge) but I really love the effect. :D
Quote from: Janbouli on December 20, 2016, 01:17:55 PM
Thanks for sharing this great build and all the mini tutorials inside. You are great with the small stuff Bob , would make a great Normal scale modeler, I believe you have done N-scale in the past.
Thanks Jan! Yes, John was an N Scale modeler when I met him and I built a few kits for him in that gauge. They're just as much fun although I'm not sure I'd be able to do the goose neck lamps in that scale. I'm sure somebody has done it though. Believe it or not these aren't the smallest LED's available. ;)
Great job on the dock house. I agree that the lighting puts it over the top!
Geo2rge aka timbob60
Very nicely done. And as with many other build threads on here, a lot of very good building information presented and shown. Thanks again.
WOW!
Beautiful build Bob.
If I didn't shake so bad and could see them, maybe I could solder wires on them little bitty light thingys. I have to use those prewired ones.
Jim
Man, I knew I would like this one, but you've outdone yourself. It's got everything I like in a kit. The lighting is incredible -really a build on its own. The varied textures on the roof, the "fragile" details like the wind vane and that other elevated box (I don't know what it represents but it looks great), the varied pilings, dock heights and supports. That's a real winner. I can't wait to see all of the finishes and weathering in person.
One of your best!
John
Quote from: Timbob60 on December 20, 2016, 03:31:05 PM
Great job on the dock house. I agree that the lighting puts it over the top!
Geo2rge aka timbob60
Thanks Geo2rge! I can't wait to see it lit up on John's layout. I waffled a little bit on whether or not to install a light over the one door that I knew would be facing away from the viewer on his layout but decided that, even though the lamp itself would be unseen, the effect of the lighting in the rear of the building might be interesting. :D
Quote from: Oldguy on December 20, 2016, 03:54:29 PM
Very nicely done. And as with many other build threads on here, a lot of very good building information presented and shown. Thanks again.
You're welcome Bob and thanks for following along and commenting. I've learned so much from everyone on these forums over the year. :D I enjoy sharing my experiences when I build kits. I'm sure the regulars are familiar with most (all) of the techniques I share but I take the approach that there may be someone out there new to the hobby that hasn't seen a few of these things.
Quote from: jimmillho on December 20, 2016, 07:19:55 PM
Beautiful build Bob.
If I didn't shake so bad and could see them, maybe I could solder wires on them little bitty light thingys. I have to use those prewired ones.
Jim
Thanks Jim! ;D I was relieved I could still do it. This was my first attempt since the cataract surgery. I went with the mono vision option (my left eye is great for close up stuff and my right eye for distance). It only messed up my depth perception a little bit but other than that it wasn't too bad.
Quote from: Cuse on December 21, 2016, 06:13:31 AM
Man, I knew I would like this one, but you've outdone yourself. It's got everything I like in a kit. The lighting is incredible -really a build on its own. The varied textures on the roof, the "fragile" details like the wind vane and that other elevated box (I don't know what it represents but it looks great), the varied pilings, dock heights and supports. That's a real winner. I can't wait to see all of the finishes and weathering in person.
One of your best!
John
I'm glad you like it John! I can't wait to see it on your water front. It's an interesting little structure with that two level dock and, as you said, all the different textures. I think they said that elevated box on the office is a water cooler. ???
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 21, 2016, 07:28:23 AM
Quote from: Oldguy on December 20, 2016, 03:54:29 PM
Very nicely done. And as with many other build threads on here, a lot of very good building information presented and shown. Thanks again.
You're welcome Bob and thanks for following along and commenting. I've learned so much from everyone on these forums over the year. :D I enjoy sharing my experiences when I build kits. I'm sure the regulars are familiar with most (all) of the techniques I share but I take the approach that there may be someone out there new to the hobby that hasn't seen a few of these things.
Bob
I learn something from every one of your build threads - another great build. Just like I get better and learn something with every model I build - I also learn from your builds. There is no substitute for experience. Thank you for helping us all learn faster.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 21, 2016, 07:37:05 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 21, 2016, 07:28:23 AM
Quote from: Oldguy on December 20, 2016, 03:54:29 PM
Very nicely done. And as with many other build threads on here, a lot of very good building information presented and shown. Thanks again.
You're welcome Bob and thanks for following along and commenting. I've learned so much from everyone on these forums over the year. :D I enjoy sharing my experiences when I build kits. I'm sure the regulars are familiar with most (all) of the techniques I share but I take the approach that there may be someone out there new to the hobby that hasn't seen a few of these things.
Bob
I learn something from every one of your build threads - another great build. Just like I get better and learn something with every model I build - I also learn from your builds. There is no substitute for experience. Thank you for helping us all learn faster.
Thanks John! Trust me, you're all helping me out too and I really appreciate it. :)
Bob
Just went through this thread. Very outstanding work. Weathering not overdone. The lighting should really bring this building right up there with the best of them.
Just watch this weather when you come North although the "Weather Weenies" are calling for above temperatures next week you never know. We've been cold one day and the next day it was 64 a 30 degree change.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 21, 2016, 12:29:23 PM
Bob
Just went through this thread. Very outstanding work. Weathering not overdone. The lighting should really bring this building right up there with the best of them.
Just watch this weather when you come North although the "Weather Weenies" are calling for above temperatures next week you never know. We've been cold one day and the next day it was 64 a 30 degree change.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! I appreciate the comments. And the warning. I haven't had to drive in snow or on ice in quite some time and don't care to test my skills. :P
Wow!! That's an excellent build!!
Ufff....Think I cannot add more than the others have wrote Bob...:)
Amazing work and the lights are a perfect touch! A great detail.
Absolutely excellent work... as usual!
The details are real eye candy to keep you interested.
Is that a Vectorcut Weather vane on top! It is like the cherry on a loaded Banana Split!
Wowser! I can't add any more kudos than what have been laid at your feet already! Thanks again for all of the pictures and build commentary!
Quote from: Pol.lux on December 21, 2016, 03:05:17 PM
Wow!! That's an excellent build!!
Ufff....Think I cannot add more than the others have wrote Bob...:)
Amazing work and the lights are a perfect touch! A great detail.
Thanks! The comments are very much appreciated. :D This kit presented some challenges but it is an interesting structure and was fun to build.
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 21, 2016, 03:22:31 PM
Absolutely excellent work... as usual!
The details are real eye candy to keep you interested.
Is that a Vectorcut Weather vane on top! It is like the cherry on a loaded Banana Split!
Thanks Darryl! I really appreciate the kind words. The kit included two laser cut weather vanes. The one I used, the whale, plus a another one, a sailing ship. The ship looked a little too big too me so I chose the whale.
I do like the Vectorcut details. I haven't checked out his site lately to see if he came up out with anything new that I have to have. ;D
Quote from: MAP on December 22, 2016, 08:18:32 AM
Wowser! I can't add any more kudos than what have been laid at your feet already! Thanks again for all of the pictures and build commentary!
Thanks Mark and you are quite welcome! I'm glad we have a place like this where we can share our experiences. It's really fun to see how others go about doing things and what materials they like or dislike.
The cool thing about taking some time out from the forum is that when you come back you get to go through an entire thread like this in one sitting, and not have to wait days for the next step. All the better to enjoy a real masterpiece such as this. Well done Bob- thanks for taking the time to share all this information.
Thanks Bob, I have this kit to make so I will be studying all your techniques to make sure I make no mistakes.
Great build - now get on with the boat please.......
Mike :D
Outstanding build Bob..... 8)
I agree, very well done. Beautiful structure and craftsmanship.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 01, 2017, 09:37:01 AM
I agree, very well done. Beautiful structure and craftsmanship.
Tom ;D
DITTO.
Jim
Quote from: Mike Engler on December 31, 2016, 11:55:04 PM
The cool thing about taking some time out from the forum is that when you come back you get to go through an entire thread like this in one sitting, and not have to wait days for the next step. All the better to enjoy a real masterpiece such as this. Well done Bob- thanks for taking the time to share all this information.
Thanks Mike! I really appreciate the comments. Yeah, I'm a bit slow between postings. ;) The real life job interferes with my fun. At least that's an excuse I can use until I can finally retire. Then I'll have to come up with a new one for being slow with my posts. ;D
Quote from: madharry on January 01, 2017, 06:28:20 AM
Thanks Bob, I have this kit to make so I will be studying all your techniques to make sure I make no mistakes.
Great build - now get on with the boat please.......
Mike :D
Thanks Mike! I hope my experiences help you avoid a few of the pitfalls. I'm sure you'll do a wonderful job with this one. I can't wait to see you version of it. :D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 01, 2017, 09:21:58 AM
Outstanding build Bob..... 8)
Thanks Greg. Hopefully we'll get to see it on John's layout. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 01, 2017, 09:37:01 AM
I agree, very well done. Beautiful structure and craftsmanship.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Appreciate it. I'm happy with the way it turned out. :)
Quote from: jimmillho on January 01, 2017, 11:19:25 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 01, 2017, 09:37:01 AM
I agree, very well done. Beautiful structure and craftsmanship.
Tom ;D
DITTO.
Jim
Thanks Jim! Appreciate it! :)
The Bait Boat
There are two little 'barges' or 'boats' included in Cundy Harbor. Both have the same basic casting for the hull. I decided to build these next since they'd be relatively quick compared to the structures. The "Bait Boat" has a little shack that sits on top of the barge. I started by removing the framing for the shack from the laser cut sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213149-188412320.jpeg)
Next I test fitted and then glued together the four wall frames that make up the shack making sure to keep everything square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213149-188421232.jpeg)
After the walls were together the cross members for the roof were added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213149-18843627.jpeg)
The shack itself is a board by board assembly over the framework. The boards were on a single laser cut sheet. I started by roughing them up with a welders wire brush that I have for just such purposes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117121954-191741530.jpeg)
After staining the sheet of boards and letting that dry I 'painted' them Country Red with a sponge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117121954-19196343.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Next I dabbed on some 'Dove Gray' with a sponge but lightly. I wasn't trying to paint over the red, just to get the appearance of some gray showing through where the red paint had peeled away. This gets toned downed considerably when an A&I was is applied over top of it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117121954-191972144.jpeg)
I decided to distress the boards a little more using a tool I picked up a long time ago from somewhere (probably Micro Mark). It's a wire bristle brush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117121954-191982263.jpeg)
You can control how far out the wire brush extends, hence how stiff the brush is, by twisting the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117121954-191992330.jpeg)
Next comes the A&I treatment. The gray all but disappeared. I probably didn't let it dry long enough. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122103-192001920.jpeg)
After I applied the boards to one end, working around the door opening, I decided to test fit the door casting. As you can see it didn't fit properly. The bottom edge extended beyond the bottom of the shack.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122103-19201415.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I used a little sanding stick I picked up at Hobby Lobby to sand the top of the door opening to get a good fit for the door casting. When I do the other end I'll take into account that the opening needs to be taller when I add the boards to that end to save myself a little sanding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122103-19202963.jpeg)
I also used the sanding stick (handy little things) to sand the paint off of the edges of the windows (these are two part assemblies) so they'd fit inside the frames without forcing them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122103-19203647.jpeg)
Then I glued the windows into the frames using Micro Kristal Klear (which I also used later on to add glazing to the windows).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122103-19204595.jpeg)
I used Pink Flamingo glue to glue the doors and windows in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122200-192051443.jpeg)
Of course I had done a test fit prior to gluing them in place to ensure they would fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122200-19206805.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
The roofing material for the Bait Boat that was included in the kit was single ply toilet paper. I primed it with Floquil Primer (using an air brush) and then painted part of it with Grimy Black for the main roof and part with Depot Buff for the canvas cover that will be at one end of the shack. I used 3M Sticky Notes to mask it and hold it in place. Painters tape would have been too sticky for the toilet paper and would have torn it. I cut the black portion into scale 3' strips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122200-19207345.jpeg)
I used the same wire brush to distress/tease the ends of the strips, after cutting them to the appropriate width so they'd hang over both sides of the roof just a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122200-192081190.jpeg)
Then I glued them in place across the roof and overlapping one another slightly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122200-192091761.jpeg)
Here's the end result with the awning in place and "Bait" sign added to the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122312-192101547.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122312-192111314.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122312-192122328.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122312-192132396.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122312-192141190.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122354-192151049.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-080117122354-19216991.jpeg)
Up next...the "Boat House".
Thanks for following along!
Great job on the boats, Bob!
Jeff
They look amazing, great job.
Outstanding job Bob. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam.......... 8) 8)
Looks great Bob! I especially like the distressed edges on the roofing.
John
Bob, You Da Man!!!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.zap2it.com%2Fassets%2Fp186054_b_h3_aa%2Fbob-the-builder.jpg&hash=c12f34f99a6e30484bd6f7fc4352059744caed12)
HI Jeff, Jan, Bob, John and Donato,
Thank you very much for the kind comments. :D The boats were fun little builds.
Next up the....
Boat House
I had a little bit of head start on this one. John had already removed some of the laser cut components from their carriers in anticipation of building it before he passed it off to me. I started by staining the roof trusses and framework with Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175546-195551511.jpeg)
Next I glued one of the side wall frame pieces to one of the end pieces making sure to keep them square. Then I did the same with the other side wall and other end wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175547-19560443.jpeg)
Afterwards I glued the two wall sections together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175547-195612367.jpeg)
Then the roof trusses were attached. If you look really close you might be able to see that the first truss is actually a double truss. The piece oriented towards the end of the building has a peak to it while the piece oriented towards the interior has a flat top that the cupola will sit on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175547-19562807.jpeg)
Next up it was time to prepare the boards/planks that will cover the walls. I stained the sheets while they were still connected and then painted one side with a cheap acrylic Medium Gray color. This was not a heavy coat of paint. The brush was fairly dry when I painted them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175547-195631491.jpeg)
After they were painted I split the sheet up so I had individual boards. I distressed the painted side of each board by dragging a fine tooth razor saw blade the length of the board. I held the blade an angle to the gouges would be even closer together than had I held it straight across the board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175656-195641596.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Next up I stained the parts that make up the cupola.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175656-195651690.jpeg)
After painting and weathering the pieces that make up the cupola (I used reefer white as the base and then dabbed them with a sponge using Khaki and Light Gray to beat 'em up followed by an A&I wash). Just like I had done previously I made up two sets of end walls glued to side walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175656-19566483.jpeg)
Then the two sets were glued together to form the cupola.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175657-195672373.jpeg)
There are 1/16 square pieces of strip wood that get glued into the trusses and run the length of the building. The trusses have notches in them that this wood is supposed to fit in. The fit was pretty tight so I sanded each strip down until I could fit it in the notch without forcing it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175657-19568694.jpeg)
So far this was the most challenging thing I found with this structure. Test fit, sand, test fit, sand.... ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175802-19569661.jpeg)
At this point I made up a little board that would drop down into the cupola, rest on the top of the trusses and held two lights. I offset the lights slightly because there will an I beam glued smack down the middle underneath the trusses later on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175802-195702018.jpeg)
More in a moment... 8)
This gives you some idea of what the light board looks like. I used very little glue to hold the cupola in place. Just in case the lights ever need to be maintained.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175802-195711868.jpeg)
Next I added a frame around the opening for the door. This needs to be done prior to adding the siding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-310117175802-19572790.jpeg)
Oops! That's all the pictures I uploaded at this point. Next time I'll show the structure sided, board by board. That's about where I'm at with this build at the moment. There's still lots to do though. The pier it rests on hasn't been started yet and there are workbenches with tons of tools on them that need to be assembled and painted. ;D
Thanks for following along!
Bob
Another great build thread. Very nice work!
Bob,
I agree, great tutorial along the was as well.
Tom ;D
Bob, you the best build threads ever! Its like you have done this before. :)
Lookin' good Bob!
For your consideration...I've spent the last few hours re-working my waterfront plan to maximize the placement and impact of these beautiful kits. I think the boathouse (above) will have a prominent spot but it will likely be positioned parallel to the coastline (and layout edge) in a busy little area. My point is this: save your super detailing and favorited castings for the right side (if you're facing the opening). The angle of your last photo is the way it will be largely seen. Front and back will be visible also, but the opposing side (left) will be hard to really appreciate. Just something for you to consider in your work.
Thanks...John
Here's what I've done today...I rebuilt a waterfront dock that doesn't take up as much room in either direction. I purposely made the bracing seemingly random (inspired by my visit to Ketchikan, Alaska last year). This allowed the Dock House to settle right in between a rock and a hard place. The paper model is a full-size cutout of the Boat House shown under construction in this thread (I imagine the real one will be elevated slightly more). What you can't see is my Seaport Model Works Capt. Hook's Lobster(unbuilt), which I plan to place right along the front edge of the layout with the stenciled sign facing the viewer. This will create a tight little dead end inlet full of waterfront coolness courtesy of Bob's builds. Hope that explanation was clear.
John,
What a great show place for the kits. The boat house is really going to make the scene come to life more so than it already is.
The Baptist have a song, "Oh what a friend we have in Bob". Oops, I meant " What a friend we have in Jesus". ;D ;D ;D ;D
Just saying.
Tom 8)
First allow me to introduce myself to the members here. I am Carter Morgan, retired in 1999 to a small town in Suwannee Co. Florida called O'Brien. I model HO and occasionally sell on EBay. (Not a sales pitch).
I read thru all ReadingBob's post on this model and am quite impressed by the details given along the way as this project comes together. (I have 6-7 Bar Mills models and will assemble someday as I make progress on my own layout). I am new to building wood models and have scratch build a few so following along has given me encouragement and I get to see the finished results of the different ordered steps taken in construction, painting and staining. A real benefit for me as not only new to wood projects but new to the finishing, weathering etc. that goes along with model building and, I might add, very interesting the lighting techniques. Well done.
And in closing several things I would like to say first Bob great job in explaining each step, second (?) being your handle is ReadingBob are you from Pa and the Reading RR area?
Finally I see you reside in Lake Mary, perhaps we crossed paths in Deland last month at the train show. Great show and I picked up a few Engines there.
Thanks for listening and look forward to watching and learning from a pro.
Carter
PS: I find this site very very informative as I like to model in wood but hate to paint stain and wash over a model only to have it turn out less that envisioned.
Thanks to each member for taking the time and effort to post your progress photos and descriptive exchange of ideas. A real blessing to see it all come together first hand. I look forward to being a part of the Forum.
Welcome Carter! You know, the secret of wood is to apply light coats (I prefer the sponge method) and weathering with powders is great because you cant warp the wood!
Welcome to the Forum Carter. Post some pics as you go along cause we love pictures.
Jim
Carter,
Welcome to the forum. Bob does some amazing work.
Tom ;D
Hi John S, Tom, John C, Marty, Carter and everyone else,
Thanks for the wonderful comments and for following along with the build. :D Bar Mills has some great structure kits and this one has been fun to build.
John C - The Dock House looks far better in it's home on your waterfront than it did sitting on my kitchen counter. I'm anxious to see the Boat House in place where you have a spot reserved for it. Your scenery will bring it all together.
Quote from: Carter on February 04, 2017, 06:21:57 PM
First allow me to introduce myself to the members here. I am Carter Morgan, retired in 1999 to a small town in Suwannee Co. Florida called O'Brien. I model HO and occasionally sell on EBay. (Not a sales pitch).
First and foremost welcome to the forum Carter! We're certainly glad you found us and look forward to hearing from you.
Quote from: Carter on February 04, 2017, 06:21:57 PMAnd in closing several things I would like to say first Bob great job in explaining each step, second (?) being your handle is ReadingBob are you from Pa and the Reading RR area?
Yep. I grew up in Schuylkill Haven PA (on the Schuylkill River in Schuylkill County :D ::) ). Haven is North West of Reading and less than an hours drive away. On the other side of the river is Cressona and the Cressona yards of the Reading Railroad. There was also some Pennsylvania tracks around the area. I grew up watching the coal trains rumbling thru town. Later in life I spent time around Harrisburg (and saw a lot of the Enola yards in the Conrail era). I lived in St. Clair, PA throughout the 90's but by time almost all evidence of the railroads was gone. At one time there was huge Reading yard, complete with a 360 degree roundhouse, between St. Clair and Port Carbon. Now you can't find a trace of it. I move to Lake Mary in December of 99 and have been here since.
Quote from: Carter on February 04, 2017, 06:21:57 PMPS: I find this site very very informative as I like to model in wood but hate to paint stain and wash over a model only to have it turn out less that envisioned.
One thing I'll add about the stains and warping that I didn't mention in the thread - the framework walls for the Boat House are laser cut from a layered material (kind of like a micro plywood). Based on prior experience I knew that material takes stain a lot better than a simple sheet of wood and resists warping. ;) I had a similar type wall in a kit from a different manufacturer that was laser cut out a simple sheet of plain wood. When I stained it the diagonal pieces warped like crazy. Naturally when a wall is laser cut that way the grain of the wood is going to run the wrong way for some pieces and those are the ones that will warp. If I run into on of those situations again I'll forego the stains and used the dry sponge technique Bob C suggested or color the wood with chalks or Pan Pastels. Anything that will keep it from getting too wet.
Thanks for the kind comments. I'm glad you're finding the thread useful. Don't be afraid to ask questions. There are a lot of terrific modelers on this forum and they're more than willing to help out if they can. ;D
Looking good Bob.....welcome to the forum Carter. 8)
"Cutting with the grain" is a hallmark of good kit design.
dave
Quote from: Carter on February 04, 2017, 06:21:57 PM
First allow me to introduce myself to the members here. I am Carter Morgan, retired in 1999 to a small town in Suwannee Co. Florida called O'Brien. I model HO and occasionally sell on EBay. (Not a sales pitch).
I read thru all ReadingBob's post on this model and am quite impressed by the details given along the way as this project comes together. (I have 6-7 Bar Mills models and will assemble someday as I make progress on my own layout). I am new to building wood models and have scratch build a few so following along has given me encouragement and I get to see the finished results of the different ordered steps taken in construction, painting and staining. A real benefit for me as not only new to wood projects but new to the finishing, weathering etc. that goes along with model building and, I might add, very interesting the lighting techniques. Well done.
And in closing several things I would like to say first Bob great job in explaining each step, second (?) being your handle is ReadingBob are you from Pa and the Reading RR area?
Finally I see you reside in Lake Mary, perhaps we crossed paths in Deland last month at the train show. Great show and I picked up a few Engines there.
Thanks for listening and look forward to watching and learning from a pro.
Carter
PS: I find this site very very informative as I like to model in wood but hate to paint stain and wash over a model only to have it turn out less that envisioned.
Thanks to each member for taking the time and effort to post your progress photos and descriptive exchange of ideas. A real blessing to see it all come together first hand. I look forward to being a part of the Forum.
Welcome to the forum Carter - you picked the thread one of the best modelers on the forum for your first post.
Here's an update on the Boat House build. :D
After I sided the boat house with the strip wood I had prepared you can see were the 'unpainted' edge of the boards on the end walls stands out a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124021-205721640.jpeg)
I masked off the walls so only offending edges were exposed and gave them a quick sponge paint of the gray paint I had used for the wall. They blend into the side wall better now. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124022-205741213.jpeg)
The roof is supposed to represent metal panels and the joints are covered with peel and stick strips of material. I peeled the backing off and stuck them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124022-205752404.jpeg)
Where the main roof has a fold in it I cut thru the peel and stick strips so they would 'fold' as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124022-20576577.jpeg)
I then flipped the roofs over and trimmed the strips to fit with a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124022-205771458.jpeg)
I capped the peak of the roof with a strip of paper cut from an envelop. Cut the envelop right along the folded edge and you'll have a pre-folded strip of paper. I painted it to match the roof. Now, as far as the finish on the roof is concerned I tried something new (to me) here. The instructions recommend painting the roof a rust color first. I did that using a mix of Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna (Model Masters Acrylic Paints). After that dried I stippled on and dry-brushed the roof with Model Masters Aluminum (the instructions call for Polly Scale paint but I don't have that particular color in the now defunct Polly Scale line). This lets some of the rust show thru the aluminum. I added some rust color Pan Pastels for the finishing touch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124127-20578256.jpeg)
I have a love/hate relationship with the finish on the roof. 70% or the time I like it when I look at it. 30% of the time I don't. It depends a lot on the lighting. I'm going to leave it as is however.
More in a moment... :D
The windows (and doors) are all peel and stick components assembled in layers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124127-20579883.jpeg)
I added the laser cut 'glass' to the windows. I cleaned the exposed side first, stuck them in place and then removed the protective paper that covers one side of the glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124127-205802455.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124127-205811258.jpeg)
The smaller windows had to be glued into place. For this I use Micro Krystal Klear which is something I also use for window glazing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124127-205821336.jpeg)
I started prepping the strip wood for the dock by roughing it up with a wire welders brush I picked up at Home Depot. You might notice that this process has the side benefit of cleaning off the glue, paint, etc. that accumulates on the cutting mat. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124252-20583261.jpeg)
After staining all the strip wood with Hunterline Creosote Black I started assembling the joists for the decking by gluing them directly on the template. I used a piece of the bamboo skewers included in the kit as a gauge to ensure a tighter fit were the pilings will go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124252-205842222.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Finishing up the joists for the decking. Afterwards I slide a single edge razor blade underneath it to cut it loose from the paper. I used the smallest of dots of Elmer's White Glue to glue the strips to the template. I scraped/sanded off any paper that stuck to the wood and touched up the top with A&I. It doesn't matter too much, the top was the part glued to the paper. The assembly was built upside down (this important to note when you're planning which side of the structure you want the larger deck to go on). So the spots will be covered by boards anyway.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124252-205852026.jpeg)
Adding the deck to the dock. That doesn't sound right. :P This is easy, kind of fun but still a bit tedious all at the same time. But well worth the effort.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124252-20586952.jpeg)
I used full strips of strip wood for the longer section of this assembly. I thought about cutting them into short strips for realism but realized that the joints wouldn't be in a visible place once the structure was glued into place so why bother?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124252-20587402.jpeg)
For the shorter pieces I cut but of pieces to length using my Chopper which made this section go together pretty quickly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124341-20588281.jpeg)
This section will actually be inside the Boat House so neatness isn't exactly important here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124341-2058939.jpeg)
Finally I touched up the assembly with the same Hunterline stain. All the cut edges of the strip wood stand out like a sore thumb prior to this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110317124342-205902334.jpeg)
That's where I am, picture wise, at this point in the build.
Thanks for following along!
That's some good looking, precise work Bob! Every time I see that Flamingo glue applicator, I tell myself to get some...haven't yet.
Great build, as usual.
John
Bob,
First of all, another great step by step thread. I never thought to use masking tape to touch up the corners after assembly, that seems much easier than trying to be neat freehand. I will be using masking tape in the future. Love the finish on the walls, they look great.
Since you indicated you are not sure you like how the roof came out, I'll offer a suggestion. I built Bar Mills the Barn at Jackson Corners. The roof was designed to be done the same as the one you just completed. I followed the instructions as you did, but was never completely comfortable with the end result. Since then, I have changed my approach to this type of roof. First, I cut a piece of 110# cardstock slightly oversize and glue it to the cardboard roof supplied with the kit. This eliminates the kind of "wavy" look that the cardboard supplied in the kit has, and IMO the smoother finish looks more like metal. It also gives the metal roof the prototypical slight overhang. Then I mark pencil lines every scale foot, and use Evergreen 1x2's in place of what to me are oversize ribs. I use Canopy glue to add the Evergreen strips, and have had no issue with them not sticking to the cardstock.
Bob, you make it look too easy.
Your build is coming along great! Nice work! As far as roof coloring goes I do things the way it is in real life: paint the roof the color it was when it was new, then layer rust colors such as paints and powders on top of that. My eyes can make out that the rust is on top of the base color. I agree with using a thicker cardstock for roofs. I also like edging my cardstock with scale 1x 3 strip wood. It really makes a difference in the look of the edging
Quote from: Cuse on March 11, 2017, 04:20:53 PM
That's some good looking, precise work Bob! Every time I see that Flamingo glue applicator, I tell myself to get some...haven't yet.
Great build, as usual.
John
Thanks John. I really like the Flamingo glue and would recommend picking some up and trying it. You can also find the empty bottles in a four pack at JoAnn's Fabric (but don't ask me which aisle, Eileen picked them up for me) and put your favorite glue in them. I keep one with glue and one with tar/pitch in it on my workbench.
Quote from: MartyO on March 11, 2017, 07:29:49 PM
Bob, you make it look too easy.
Thanks Marty! If only I were faster (even 1/4 Postal Karl speed would do). ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 11, 2017, 07:18:55 PM
Bob,
First of all, another great step by step thread. I never thought to use masking tape to touch up the corners after assembly, that seems much easier than trying to be neat freehand. I will be using masking tape in the future. Love the finish on the walls, they look great.
Since you indicated you are not sure you like how the roof came out, I'll offer a suggestion. I built Bar Mills the Barn at Jackson Corners. The roof was designed to be done the same as the one you just completed. I followed the instructions as you did, but was never completely comfortable with the end result. Since then, I have changed my approach to this type of roof. First, I cut a piece of 110# cardstock slightly oversize and glue it to the cardboard roof supplied with the kit. This eliminates the kind of "wavy" look that the cardboard supplied in the kit has, and IMO the smoother finish looks more like metal. It also gives the metal roof the prototypical slight overhang. Then I mark pencil lines every scale foot, and use Evergreen 1x2's in place of what to me are oversize ribs. I use Canopy glue to add the Evergreen strips, and have had no issue with them not sticking to the cardstock.
Thanks Jerry! Interesting tip on the roof. Hopefully I'll remember it next time I encounter this type of roof. It certainly sounds like would it make for a much better looking roof.
Quote from: rpdylan on March 11, 2017, 07:37:26 PM
Your build is coming along great! Nice work! As far as roof coloring goes I do things the way it is in real life: paint the roof the color it was when it was new, then layer rust colors such as paints and powders on top of that. My eyes can make out that the rust is on top of the base color. I agree with using a thicker cardstock for roofs. I also like edging my cardstock with scale 1x 3 strip wood. It really makes a difference in the look of the edging
Thanks Bob! That's normally the way I paint this type of roof and it's what I plan on going back to. I thought I'd try what the method the instructions recommended for something different this time around. Whenever I see a metal roof with an interesting weathering pattern on it I try to get a picture of it so I can use it as a reference (aka try to copy it :D ).
Hey Bob another fantastic build tutorial. Picked up those bottles at JoAnn's Fabric in a four pack, if I remember they were in the jewelry craft aisle.
Okay, I've been really bad about getting the Boat House finished and documenting it along the way. My apologies. :-[
I installed lights on the interior and the exterior. The first time I wired up the exterior Goose Neck lamps and tested them there was a little pop and two tiny puffs of smoke, one from each lamp. Gosh darn it I said to myself. ;) When I looked closer I realized I had mistakenly wired the positive wire leading into the first LED to the wrong post on the current limiter I was using which effectively bypassed the current limiter and allowed 18 volts to run thru to 1.5 volt LED's. That doesn't work. So, I had to solder leads to another batch of LED's and replace the two exterior lights. When I was finished I found that the exterior lights were WW (Warm White) LED's and the interior were CW (Cool White). I tried to get a picture so you could see the difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165029-212561223.jpeg)
To get the LED's to look a little balanced in painted them with Tamiya translucent Yellow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165030-212691409.jpeg)
Now the difference isn't as pronounced. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165030-212701308.jpeg)
Now for the final shots of the finished structure. The pilings are way too long on purpose. When John places this on his layout he can cut them down using a rail nippers to get the height he needs. I didn't try to apply darker tones to the bottom to represent the high-water mark or barnacles, slime, etc. because those effects really need to match the other structures in the harbor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165030-212711006.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165030-2127212.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165135-212732445.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165135-212741407.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190417165135-212751700.jpeg)
I'll start the final building in the Cundy Harbor collection this weekend. I don't think John plans on using it but it's on my workbench so what the heck. I may as well build it. :D
Awesome Bob, just Awesome.
Jim
Wow...absolutely another showstopper! Great work Bob! I can't wait for things to settle down a bit with our move(s) so I can get back on the ball with these beautiful buildings to anchor the next scene.
John
Very nice, Bob. Great weathered look.
Jeff
Bob,
Absolutely beautiful! The lightning rods are a nice touch, something pretty common, at least in my neck of the woods, but seldom modeled.
Quote from: jimmillho on April 20, 2017, 08:00:26 PM
Awesome Bob, just Awesome.
Jim
Thanks Jim! Much appreciated. ;)
Quote from: Cuse on April 20, 2017, 08:39:40 PM
Wow...absolutely another showstopper! Great work Bob! I can't wait for things to settle down a bit with our move(s) so I can get back on the ball with these beautiful buildings to anchor the next scene.
John
Thanks John! I hope you get all these moves behind you pretty soon so we can see how these look on your waterfront. I'm anxious to see some water beneath them. :D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 21, 2017, 08:09:43 AM
Very nice, Bob. Great weathered look.
Jeff
Thanks Dr. Jeff! I don't know why it took me so long to get this one done but I'm pleased with the end result. :D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 21, 2017, 08:28:25 AM
Bob,
Absolutely beautiful! The lightning rods are a nice touch, something pretty common, at least in my neck of the woods, but seldom modeled.
Thanks Jerry. Interesting side note about the lightening rods. The kit was supposed to include a small bag with two pieces of wire and two beads in it but I couldn't find it. Either it wasn't there or I misplaced it. I stopped in Hobby Lobby one day and searched though the beads until I found some that looked good. I bought a tube full of them for three or four bucks. I've got enough beads leftover to make a couple hundred lightening rods. ;D
Bob
Another great build and build thread. Very nice.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 21, 2017, 09:10:38 AM
Bob
Another great build and build thread. Very nice.
What he said......double! (at least!)
Well done Bob..... 8)
Beautiful work...great thread. 👍🏻
Thanks John, Donato, Greg and Dave! I really appreciate the comments.
Once I finish the final structure in this kit, which I'm about to start, I want to knock out something smaller and quicker. I need a few small builds before I tackle something large and complex.
Bob,
There are no more adjectives I can use to describe the quality of your work. But here is a thought,
I'm sure glad you are my friend and you are a member in good standing of the Saturday Butty Group, SBG. AMEN!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 22, 2017, 02:52:22 PM
Bob,
There are no more adjectives I can use to describe the quality of your work. But here is a thought,
I'm sure glad you are my friend and you are a member in good standing of the Saturday Butty Group, SBG. AMEN!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Very much appreciated! I need to do a better job of getting down there to visit though. It looks like you're really picking up steam on the layout construction. ;)
Does the SBG have a formal membership card? If so I would love to get one.......
Quote from: Donato on April 23, 2017, 12:37:29 PM
Does the SBG have a formal membership card? If so I would love to get one.......
They should print out a 'system-wide' rail pass.
dave
Okay, I'm going to continue on an build the final structure in the kit.
Midcoast Whale Oil
I don't think John really has any plans for this one but it was included in the kit and it's on my workbench so it must be built! ;D
I started out by painting the shingles. I first sprayed them with a rattle can Primer and let them dry. Then I dabbed on a cheap craft store acrylic paint, "Mustard Seed", using a sponge. I squeezed a little of the paint onto a sticky note pad, dabbed the sponge in it and then dabbed in onto a dry spot on the sticky note pad a few times to work it into the sponge. Then I started dabbing it on the shingles. The instructions said they used "Reefer Yellow" on the pilot model. It was purely coincidental that the Mustard Seed turned out to be a close match to what's shown in the pictures in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100624-214452117.jpeg)
I cut out the main walls using a single edge razor blade. This aren't wood. They're some sort of pressed paper material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100625-21471872.jpeg)
I used an emery board to smooth out any nubs left of from cutting out the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100625-21472974.jpeg)
Next I cut some bracing for the inside of the walls. I hadn't glued this piece in place yet. I was just using the razor to mark where I wanted to cut it. I moved it directly to my cutting mat to make the actual cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100625-214731866.jpeg)
I ran a bead of glue down the bracing material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100625-214741103.jpeg)
Put it in place and weighed it down for a few minutes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100736-214751606.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Alright. The next step you shouldn't have to do but I've never trusted the adhesive qualities of the shingles in some of these kits. The walls for this structure are covered in shingles so I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the exterior surface of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100736-21477839.jpeg)
I trimmed it to fit using a pair of Friskar Micro Shears and cut out the window openings with an X-Acto knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100736-21478622.jpeg)
I removed the backing from the 3M Transfer Tape to expose the sticky wall surface and started laying down shingles. The walls have been scored, using the laser, to provide some guidelines. A nice touch but in some cases the score lines, which cut through the first layer of the pressed paper material used to make these walls, allowed the top layer to start to peel away from the wall. I very tiny drop of glue fixed that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100736-214792069.jpeg)
After the walls were shingles I started looking for the parts I wanted to paint a contrasting color, Reefer White in this case. I built the core of the roof top Water Cooler prior to painting. It's best to figure out how things are going to go together and what needs to be painted prior to or part way thru the construction.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100736-214802101.jpeg)
Prior to painting I found the parts that were laser cut that have exposed edges that need to be painted. I used the emery board to remove the dark, burnt surface of the edge. I didn't want that showing through the white I planned on painting these.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100912-21481740.jpeg)
Here are the components for the entry way and the instructions. Notice anything wrong?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100913-21482754.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Okay, final pictures for this morning.
The first thing I noticed was the door was taller than the opening in the wall. Especially when you factor in the floor shown in the diagram which, interesting enough, is not present in the pictures of the pilot model included in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100913-214831263.jpeg)
Here I'm just holding the components together. Nothing's being glued together yet. I guess John bought the 'Tabs' but opted to not pay for the 'Slots'. ;D ;D ;D The roof has one tab that should go into a slot in the side wall that's missing and another that should go into a slot in the rear wall that's missing. Oops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-290417100913-214842210.jpeg)
That's it for now. Thanks for following along!
I figured Bob would be building it, so why not save a few bucks? ;D
I would be happy to replace that structure with another, more pressing one ::)
John
Here's a short update on this build (yes, I'm still plugging along). ;D
I did my usual 'dry sponge' painting of the doors, windows, etc. using Dove Gray acrylic craft paints. The gray over the white is a bit hard to see but it adds character to the finish. It's supposed to represent spots where the white paint peeled away exposing the primer beneath it (or, if you'd like, a different color that the building was previously painted).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083427-219572171.jpeg)
After the gray paint dried I hit every thing with my A&I mix. My A&I is a little too dark to use, as is, over the gray/white combo so I dipped my brush in pure A first to load it and then the A&I which effectively thinned it down. If it was too thin I'd the piece again with the straight A&I or, if it was too dark, the straight A.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083427-21980983.jpeg)
Next I dry brushed everything, the edges in particular, with an Ivory acrylic paint. Even though it's hard to see in the pictures, being that it's white on white/gray, it does make a difference. Trust me. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083427-219811007.jpeg)
The front wall three window castings that get glued into one opening side by side. Where they meet one another I filed down the edge using an emery board until I got a decent fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083427-219821069.jpeg)
Remember I mentioned that the kit included the tabs but not the slots? I could have either cut slots in, where needed, or remove the tabs. Removing the tabs seemed like it would be whole lot easier so that's the approach I took. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083427-219832261.jpeg)
I also noted that the opening for the door wasn't cut tall enough. I finally got to use this neat little tool I bought a while back. It's a Corner Punch available from Micro Mark. It was recommended by Mike Engler a while back. I bought it hoping I'd do some scratchbuilding one day but that day hasn't come yet. ::) Well, it really came in handy here. You can either mount this in a drill press and make the cuts that way or tap it with a hammer which is what I did.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083547-219842257.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Here's the resized door opening. The cuts the Corner Punch made were amazing clean. This was much easier than trying to resize it with an X-Acto knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083547-21985525.jpeg)
Well D'uh. I put the corner unit together and when I went to install the rear door it didn't fit either. No wonder the pilot model didn't have the floor installed in it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083547-219861484.jpeg)
I figured out how short the opening was and then, not shown, flipped the unit over and used the Corner Punch to fix the problem. It worked like a champ and I didn't have to disassemble anything to do it. Whew! :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083547-219871567.jpeg)
Next I started gluing the walls together using the standard front/side and rear/other side type of combo to make two halves. I tried to make sure they were square. Afterwards the corner entry way was attached to the front wall first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083547-21988921.jpeg)
Then I glued the two sections together but paid particular attention to the right wall and how it attached to the entry way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083627-219891606.jpeg)
Finally I figure out how far I wanted the rafter tails I wanted to extend beyond the wall before gluing them in place. You can see that if I had pushed them as far down as they'd go they'd extend far beyond the roof. I could have done that and then trimmed them to fit afterwards but this seemed easier. I'm all about easy at times.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130517083627-21990249.jpeg)
That's it for today. Thanks for following.
Hi Bob - I'm several years behind trying to finish Cundy Village. You noted the some kind of composition paper used for the buildings. I was less than with it. I found it to be very unforgiving and also tended to swell. I hope Bar Mills doesn't continue to use but it may be a production cost issue vs wood. Enjoyed watching you deal with the various issues. Jim
So who said kit-building was a perfect science? I really like your threads Bob.
I also use a lot of 3M transfer tape- what do you use to clean the gummy stuff from your scissors?
Beautiful work Bob. Can't wait to see this one finished.
Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on May 13, 2017, 10:58:23 AM
Hi Bob - I'm several years behind trying to finish Cundy Village. You noted the some kind of composition paper used for the buildings. I was less than with it. I found it to be very unforgiving and also tended to swell. I hope Bar Mills doesn't continue to use but it may be a production cost issue vs wood. Enjoyed watching you deal with the various issues. Jim
Thanks for the comments Jim. I agree with your assessment of the composition paper used for the walls in this particular structure. I was careful when I painted the inside of the walls black. I didn't get the walls wet with paint and made sure to spread the paint out as much as possible. That seemed to work.
Quote from: Mike Engler on May 13, 2017, 11:22:08 AM
So who said kit-building was a perfect science? I really like your threads Bob.
I also use a lot of 3M transfer tape- what do you use to clean the gummy stuff from your scissors?
Thanks Mike! I'm glad to see you're back at the workbench. :D Yep. Some kits present some little challenges that you have to figure out how to work around. That Corner Punch really came in handy on this one.
As far as cleaning the gummy stuff from the scissors one thing you don't want to do is try to rub it off with your thumb. The edge of the blades on those Fiskar Micro Shears are deceptively sharp. Have a band aid handy if you try it (don't ask me how I know). I scrape the bulk of it off with either my single edge razor blade or a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle. It balls up on that blade and I can wipe it off with a paper towel. After that I'll rub a little fine steel wool over the scissor blades to get rid of any small spots I missed the first time around.
Quote from: jimmillho on May 13, 2017, 11:30:51 AM
Beautiful work Bob. Can't wait to see this one finished.
Jim
Thanks Jim! It was good to see you the other night at the bowling alley (we ended up winning 5 out of 7 that night). ;)
Very nice work Bob.
Bob,
Excellent build, excellent tutorial, excellent narration, excellent work! Did I mention this was excellent/
Last one on Cundy Harbor, right? After your break, I have 150+ unbuilt kits for you to pick through. ;) ;) ;)
Just saying and all that comes with it.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Beautiful last 2 new videos there. Love the Zep-4 what beautiful highly detailed and lighted equipment. All your trains. Hey let me know if you need me to fix that uncoupling issue on the lead loco. ;D KP out!
Hi Bob:
Looks great so far. I will be following along.
Karl
I just realized I posted one of my videos to Bob's build thread. My bad. It was to go on my layout thread.
I removed the video from here and will post it later on my thread.
Sorry Bob for crashing your build thread.
Tom ;D
Forum/SBG custom is to relinquish one of your slots in the "Reading Bob build my kits" rotation to the kit's intended recipient...that's me ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Hi Bob, sorry I just this, was on travel for work.
There are fixed parts for this, not sure why you don't have them unless this was one of the very first kits sold...contact Art and they'll send you out the correct parts. Sorry for the boo boo's
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 20, 2017, 02:41:11 PM
Bob,
Excellent build, excellent tutorial, excellent narration, excellent work! Did I mention this was excellent/
Last one on Cundy Harbor, right? After your break, I have 150+ unbuilt kits for you to pick through. ;) ;) ;)
Just saying and all that comes with it.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! Last one and it's almost finished. A few more shutters to install and a couple of details on the roof and it'll be wrapped up. :D :D :D
Quote from: JimMooney on May 23, 2017, 04:28:11 AM
Hi Bob, sorry I just this, was on travel for work.
There are fixed parts for this, not sure why you don't have them unless this was one of the very first kits sold...contact Art and they'll send you out the correct parts. Sorry for the boo boo's
No worries Jim. I worked around the issues. Good to let others know that they've been addressed though. I think it's coming out pretty well. I'm building the Cundy Harbor set for John (Cuse) who was really only interested in the Dock House and Boat House. The Midcoast Whale Oil Company may just end up sitting on a shelf but the kit was on my workbench so I figured I might as well build it. :D
Quote from: postalkarl on May 22, 2017, 07:48:35 AM
Hi Bob:
Looks great so far. I will be following along.
Karl
Thanks Karl. As always, your comments are appreciated.
Bob,
It looks great! I will use your thread as a reference when building mine.
I use Goo Gone to clean the scissors and for removing the sticky glue residue that store labels leave.
As for the carboard like material that Bar Mills is using, I think it is the Taskboard. It has some applications, like sidewalks or perhaps the stucco, but I am really not sure as to why Bar Mills is using it in applications where mat board would be a better choice. The worst is the brick. While building Cundy Cannery, I applied diluted white glue and primed and still had the little bricks falling off every time I touched them. The next time I encounter it I intend to try Minwax Wood Hardener.
Vilius
Bob,
Very nice modeling on one of my favorite kits.
ed
Thanks Vilius and Ed! Here's a few pictures of the finished Midcoast Whale Oil Company.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617114928-22618740.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617114928-226202277.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-030617114928-226211266.jpeg)
This one is the one John didn't plan on using but I built it anyway. :)
Looks great, Bob. Very New Englandy. :D
Jeff
Nice job Bob..... 8)
That looks great Bob. There's ALWAYS room for another Reading Bob build!
John
Bob,
Great build and explanations along the way. All thumbs up from here.
Tom ;D
If John (cuse) can't use it, I can put a magnifying glass in front of it for my layout, just saying
Jim
Very nice job Bob, also enjoy your vacation.
Thanks for all the kind comments! I really appreciate them.
These are off my workbench and in John's possession. I'm almost finished another build that I haven't started a thread on yet but will soon. ;)
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 29, 2017, 03:47:13 PM
Thanks for all the kind comments! I really appreciate them.
These are off my workbench and in John's possession. I'm almost finished another build that I haven't started a thread on yet but will soon. ;)
Come on, hurry up!!! (some people!) ::)
Quote from: Donato on June 30, 2017, 01:19:37 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 29, 2017, 03:47:13 PM
Thanks for all the kind comments! I really appreciate them.
These are off my workbench and in John's possession. I'm almost finished another build that I haven't started a thread on yet but will soon. ;)
Come on, hurry up!!! (some people!) ::)
Just you wait!!!! It will be finished soon, then Bob will have time to do a Thread. ::) ::) ::)
Jim
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 20, 2016, 09:22:06 AM
Thanks Bill and Greg!
I saved the lighting for almost last. After it was installed and working I put the roofs back in place (they're removable) and finished off the remaining details such as the weather vane and windows. Now for the final pictures of the finished structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212941-188331784.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216212941-188341383.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188352177.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188361254.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-18837623.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-188381498.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213049-18839467.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-181216213149-188401347.jpeg)
John will have to figure out what to do with that long wire sticking out of his structure. ;D
Here endeth the Build Challenge portion of this Build Thread!
To be continued however, as I plan on building the rest of the Cundy Harbor complex. Next up will be the Bait Boat (cuz I needed something simple after this one!).
Thanks for following along!
Terrific build Bob and I appreciate the steps you took to document for us. I am doing this build as well at a snails pace, work and all the other responsibilities get in the way. I wanted to ask what material did you use for the capula roofing and the sides?
Thanks
Lynn
Hi Lynn,
For the shingles I substituted some Bar Mills laser cut shingles I had stashed away in a drawer. They were already a nice, weathered light gray color and I figured they'd look better than the ones that came with the kit. They were sold in a separate package and I picked them up in a hobby shop one day when they were on sale. It looks like they still offer them on their website: Bark Brown/Weathered Gray Shingles (https://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=102&category_id=13&keyword=roofing%20shingles&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=999123&redirected=1&Itemid=999123&vmcchk=1&Itemid=999123)
I know what you mean about a snails pace and work interfering with things. ;)
Thanks for the nice comments! :D
Beautiful work Bob. It all looks top notch.
Hi Bob , thanks for the reply , kind of figured it was other than the shingles that came in the kit . I used the campbells shingles that come in the roll but will do something different for the capula roof. Keep up the nice modeling.
Lynn
Quote from: Cuse on February 04, 2017, 03:33:35 PM
Here's what I've done today...I rebuilt a waterfront dock that doesn't take up as much room in either direction. I purposely made the bracing seemingly random (inspired by my visit to Ketchikan, Alaska last year). This allowed the Dock House to settle right in between a rock and a hard place. The paper model is a full-size cutout of the Boat House shown under construction in this thread (I imagine the real one will be elevated slightly more). What you can't see is my Seaport Model Works Capt. Hook's Lobster(unbuilt), which I plan to place right along the front edge of the layout with the stenciled sign facing the viewer. This will create a tight little dead end inlet full of waterfront coolness courtesy of Bob's builds. Hope that explanation was clear.
I missed this, nice job on the build and looks situated perfect.
Good looking structure! Nice job
Took me some time but I think I'm about done with my version of the Dock House.
Nicely weathered , great details , and I love the signs, well done.
Very nicely done. Everything looks great.
Thanks guys, I can see some modifications being made on the next Bar Mills I build.
Beautiful work there Lynn.....makes me wonder where all the great modelers are coming from ????
Looks great Lynn! :D Thanks for sharing pictures of your build.
Thanks Donato and Bob.
Lynn
Very nice work - thanks for sharing it with us.
Lynn,
Ditto, very well done.
Tom ;D