I need a small rural depot for my rural Florida pine forest. I was going to scratch build one but remembered that American Model Builders has an ACL depot kit.
The full kit is just over 96 HO scale feet. I need/want mine to be around half that. I'm thinking about 45 HO scale feet. I'll use the main passenger waiting room and a very small portion of the original freight area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125052.jpeg)
More in a few.
There is a 12 page instruction sheet and a whole bunch of little wood pieces. ;D ;D :o
This will be the second time I've built this kit so I won't have any unforeseen issues.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125105.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125115.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125115.jpeg)
I did an extensive thread on the first build. It was on the old forum but I couldn't find it. Anyway, this one won't be as detailed as the first as I need save thread time for the layout.
I will cover some highlights.
More in a few.
Here is what I plan to do with this kit bash.
In the photo below, you can see the full length of the original/first build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125126.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125126.jpeg)
I plan on shortening this one to the right of the first freight door located on the left.
The blue tape is where I'll add the end wall. This is just under 45 HO scale feet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090417125136.jpeg)
I'll be following along Tom.
Love the trash bag. I haven't seen one of thise in years. :D
Right here with ya Tom.
I'll be looking over your shoulder. :)
Quote from: MAP on April 10, 2017, 07:33:39 PM
I'll be following along Tom.
Mark,
Happy to have you along for the ride.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MartyO on April 10, 2017, 07:41:40 PM
Love the trash bag. I haven't seen one of thise in years. :D
Marty,
I've been using a trash bag like this for years. I can clean up as I build and then dump the bag when needed. It helps to keep the work area somewhat clean as I go.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ak-milw on April 10, 2017, 08:33:29 PM
Right here with ya Tom.
Andy,
Glad to have you along on the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 11, 2017, 08:52:38 AM
I'll be looking over your shoulder. :)
Greg,
Okay, it's you. I was wondering who else was in the layout room this afternoon. 8)
Tom ;D
Today I painted the walls with Floquil Reefer White. I applied two very thin coats as I plan to add a light wash of Hunterline Light Gray.
I painted the trim with Floquil Dark Green. The Atlantic and Southern RR colors are white with dark green trim. The Floquil Dark Green is #40. I opened a new bottle and noticed the green was just a little darker than normal.
I checked the two bottles and there was a difference. The new bottle, actually about 25+ years older, was darker than the newer one. Just goes to show that even Floquil didn't always match all the paints through the years.
I'll mention the new older green has a price tag of $2.29 - that's how old it is. But still very useable and not the least bit dried at all.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110417181514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110417181514.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110417181525.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110417181525.jpeg)
I'll let these dry and partially cure for a day of two and then start the build.
Question,
I noticed you said you need to let this freshly painted kit cure for a few days. can't you just bake it dry like the engines you do for an hour or two. It seems you could get building that much quicker-no? New to modeling in America.
Obviously Thom you didn't see the last Depot Tom L. put heat to. ;D
Hi Tom,
I have had the same problem with Floquil and Polyscale paint in that the paint color will very from another bottle supposedly of the same color.
Hi guys:
This is true of most paint. It can vary in color from batch to batch.
Karl
Tom,
Looks great thus far, I'll be following along.
Quote from: Raymo on April 11, 2017, 08:57:29 PM
Obviously Thom you didn't see the last Depot Tom L. put heat to. ;D
That wasn't from baking.......that was from Slim's LEDS
Jim
I will also be watching along with Greg...............at least until it goes up in flames :o :o :o :o
Jim
Quote from: tct855 on April 11, 2017, 07:38:22 PM
Question,
I noticed you said you need to let this freshly painted kit cure for a few days. can't you just bake it dry like the engines you do for an hour or two. It seems you could get building that much quicker-no? New to modeling in America.
Thom,
You are a funny guy. No oven baking on this model. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Raymo on April 11, 2017, 08:57:29 PM
Obviously Thom you didn't see the last Depot Tom L. put heat to. ;D
Raymo,
I think Slim has improved his LEDs since that caper occurred. Not my fault. :'(
Tom 8)
Quote from: sdrees on April 11, 2017, 09:26:29 PM
Hi Tom,
I have had the same problem with Floquil and Polyscale paint in that the paint color will very from another bottle supposedly of the same color.
Steve and Karl,
Yea, through the years I've notice the big differences in the reds, blues, greens and browns.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on April 12, 2017, 08:36:44 AM
Tom,
Looks great thus far, I'll be following along.
Jerry,
Thanks, much appreciated. I'll have an update tomorrow afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on April 12, 2017, 03:51:31 PM
I will also be watching along with Greg...............at least until it goes up in flames :o :o :o :o
Jim
Jim,
I should be safe on this one. I'm going to use some China LEDs just to be sure. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
I've got my fire extinguisher at the ready Tom! Don't want to cut this build short on some faulty wiring. Do you have a permit to build this structure from your town hall?
Quote from: MAP on April 12, 2017, 09:17:11 PM
I've got my fire extinguisher at the ready Tom! Don't want to cut this build short on some faulty wiring. Do you have a permit to build this structure from your town hall?
Mark,
I appreciate you having it ready, hopefully, I won't need it this time.
The Tahope Town Council Building Department will let anything get build as long as the price is paid. After all, they let a fireworks factory open next to a gas station.
Tom ;D
I spent most of late yesterday afternoon and today working on the walls for the ACL kit bash.
AMB kits have many many parts. As an example, the end wall section with the freight door has 12 parts and the end with the door and window has 14 pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162234.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162234.jpeg)
More in a few. I just realized I haven't had a Diet Pepsi for almost 4 hours. Must be some kind of record. :P
No wonder I'm a little off.
[/color]
Grazie, I'm much better now.
The station has two interior wall sections with a very small portion of each that serves as the outer walls for the bay window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162247.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162247.jpeg)
More in a few.
This next section was a bit tricksie. I mentioned I wanted this station to be about 45 HO scale feet in length. In order to make the station look symmetrical, I found it necessary to extend it to 51 HO scale feet.
What's 6 HO scale feet amoung friends, right?
The section shown below is of the back of the station and will face the isle and visitors. Where the cut line is shown on the left and to right end is 51 HO scale feet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162258.jpeg)
The entire wall section above is just pieced together for the purpose of showing you what I did to cut it down.
I first trimmed/cut off the upper portion of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162308.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162308.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then cut the green trim and lower wall section off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162331.jpeg)
I then used a razor saw to cut the base off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162344.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417162344.jpeg)
I then glued all the pieces together. The photo above is of the rear station wall with all the parts glued in place.
Continue in a few.
Looking good Tom. The colors go well together.
I forgot to mention this kit doesn't call for any interior bracing. I will brace the walls tomorrow. The walls in this kit go together in such a way that they can't be braced until all the pieces are glued together.
The front right wall section will be a little more tircksie than the rear wall. I won't be able to cut this one down until I get the left front and bay window walls glued together.
Here is an exploded view of this wall section and the wall parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417173047.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417173047.jpeg)
Here is the wall all pushed together but not glued. The cut will be approximately where the square is shown on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130417173059.jpeg)
Hopefully I have a little more tomorrow.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 13, 2017, 05:29:00 PM
Looking good Tom. The colors go well together.
Curt,
Thanks very much. The white walls and green trim are the colors of the A& RR. Approximately 90% of the A&S structures will have the white/green look.
Tom ;D
While the pine trees were drying, I spent time on the ACL station kit bash. I glued the two end walls to the rear wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133054.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133054.jpeg)
I then glued the two interior walls to the front of the bay window. I added a brace in the rear so the wall remained square in the rear and front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133105.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133118.jpeg)
More in a few.
When dry, I glued the bay window sub assembly to the front left of the station.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133129.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133129.jpeg)
Rear view.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133140.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133140.jpeg)
Know what time it is?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417135802.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417135802.jpeg)
Back in a few.
I needed to cut a piece off the long front wall to fit the smaller front wall on the new station.
I placed the long wall section in place and drew a pencil line where I needed to make the cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133152.jpeg)
The wall section was cut and test fitted in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133203.jpeg)
More in a few.
Fast forward here a bit and the new wall section was built and glued to the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133215.jpeg)
Here is a comparison photo of the kit bash and the original ACL station kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417133225.jpeg)
More in a few.
Excellent modeling Tom.
This is where the small rural station will be placed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417154712.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290417154712.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 29, 2017, 03:18:18 PM
Excellent modeling Tom.
Curt,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Looking really good Tom! There's a lot of slicing & dicing going on here, but you're winding up with a nice building that fits the scene perfectly.
Quote from: MAP on May 01, 2017, 12:04:09 PM
Looking really good Tom! There's a lot of slicing & dicing going on here, but you're winding up with a nice building that fits the scene perfectly.
Mark,
Thank you for the kind words, Yes, I did feel at least like a wood surgeon on this kit bash. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Since I shortened the station considerably, I needed to make the same adjustments to the roof panels. These aren't chip board but very thin plywood.
Each roof end section has a slot for the tab on the end walls. This forced me to shorten the roof by making the cuts in the center.
I didn't take a lot of pictures of this work. Once the cuts were made, I realized I didn't account for the width of the pencil line in making the cut.
I glued each end roof section in place. This is when I discovered the gap in the roof sections. To fix the problem I added scale HO 3X3 strip wood to the gap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124205.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124205.jpeg)
I braced the heck out of the underside of the roof where this splice was made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124217.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124217.jpeg)
More in a few.
Normally I paint the under side of the eves the same color as the walls, white. However, in this case I painted this area with dark green.
The reason will be explained in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124228.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124228.jpeg)
The kit also has many eve brackets that fit into slots cut into the wall sections. Once the walls and eve brackets were painted, the wood swelled and the parts wouldn't fit. Here is what I did to get the eve brackets to fit into the wall slots.
I used a new Emory board and gently sanded each bracket at an angle as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124240.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124240.jpeg)
Notice also I removed the small tab on the top of the eve where the sanded area is. This small tab interfered with the bracket fitting into the slot even after the brackets were sanded.
When placed in the wall slots, the brackets didn't fit snug up against the under side of the roof. I applied glue to each side of the eve bracket and used weights to hold them against the roof until dry.
I removed the weights to show the brackets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124256.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124256.jpeg)
More in a few.
When the eve brackets and the roof were dry and securely glued together, I added 26 rafter tails to each underside roof section as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124410.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124410.jpeg)
Although the picture shows the station on it's roof, you can see the brackets and how they fit on the walls and under the roof.
This is why I painted the underside of the roof in the dark green. I could go back and paint the dried glue and rafter tails green.
Easy peasy.
After the rafter tails were added the end rafters were added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124447.jpeg)
Continued in few. It's that time again.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124423.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124423.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124435.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124435.jpeg)
I built the dormer per the instructions and glued it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124458.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124458.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124508.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124508.jpeg)
I need to build the loading docks and add the rolled roofing material.
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124518.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070517124518.jpeg)
Tom,
That's coming along nicely sir! I like that color combination, it's got that southern railroadie feel. I'm all eyes! Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on May 07, 2017, 03:01:46 PM
Tom,
That's coming along nicely sir! I like that color combination, it's got that southern railroadie feel. I'm all eyes! Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thank you. I enjoyed our phone conversation this afternoon. I'll be giving a little history on the ACL station color at the end of this build thread.
Tom ;D
Not much to report on this thread today. I did get the freight loading platform finished.
I was going to add just a platform at each freight door but it didn't look correct. So, I followed the directions, after cutting it to fit my kit bash, and made the platforms all in one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080517180328.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080517180328.jpeg)
Roof shingles/rolled roofing next.
Great modeling Tom.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 08, 2017, 08:29:26 PM
Great modeling Tom.
Curt,
Thank you and thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Look great so far and will look great in that spot on the RR.
Karl
Tom,
Looks great. I like the larger platform, lots of opportunity to add details to an "upfront' model.
Quote from: postalkarl on May 09, 2017, 07:36:51 AM
Hi Tom:
Look great so far and will look great in that spot on the RR.
Karl
Karl,
Much appreciated as always. I'm getting the roof done this morning.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on May 09, 2017, 08:36:19 AM
Tom,
Looks great. I like the larger platform, lots of opportunity to add details to an "upfront' model.
Jerry,
Thanks very much. I agree, the larger platform looks better and creates lots of detail space.
Tom ;D
This morning I added the rolled roofing to the station.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142306.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142306.jpeg)
Fast forward and finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142318.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142318.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then painted the roof with Floquil Primer. The light gray is what the ACL, er, I mean, the A&S has for the roof color.
When the paint dries and cures for two days, I'll added the three chimneys and weathering. Of course the chimneys need to be painted and weathered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142331.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142409.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142421.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090517142421.jpeg)
Way to go Tom.....you put rolled roofing along the valleys and ran the field to it for an open valley - perfect. 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 09, 2017, 03:28:19 PM
Way to go Tom.....you put rolled roofing along the valleys and ran the field to it for an open valley - perfect. 8) 8) 8)
Greg,
Thank you, much appreciated. I knew you would be checking so I had to do it correctly. Prototypical is always best if possible.
Tom ;D
The tree chimneys were painted and ready to install.
Reading Bob gave me a bottle of Gallery glass Simulated Liquid Leading.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151052.jpeg)
We use this to simulate the tar pitch around chimneys, pipes and other roof details.
I used a toothpick and applied some of the stuff to the bottom of the chimney and around the hole in the roof where the chimney will be placed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151105.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151118.jpeg)
I forgot to take photos of the chimney being inserted in the roof. You'll see them on the roof later in the thread.
More in a few.
When the chimney pitch was dry I began the roof weathering process.
I used two different shades of gray from Pan Pastels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151132.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151132.jpeg)
I used a soft bristle brush and applied the grays to the roof and especially to the over lapped rolled roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151145.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151145.jpeg)
After doing two or three rows, I used a clean soft brush and brushed the pastel chalk horizontally along the roof.
More in a few.
Using a new foam pad and some beige pastel chalk, I applied the pastel to the roof and gently pulled it down from the top to the lower edge of the roof. The beige and grays blended very nicely.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151157.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151157.jpeg)
You can the tar pitch and the installed chimneys in the next few photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151211.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151227.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200517151239.jpeg)
Excellent job applying the roofing. The weathering looks great and subtle.
Tom,
I agree with PRR Modeler. Aren't P-pastels awesome! Nice work on the chimneys. I got my nose against the monitor. Thanx Thom...
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 22, 2017, 06:17:24 PM
Excellent job applying the roofing. The weathering looks great and subtle.
Curt,
Thank you, I was very pleased how the roof turned out.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on May 22, 2017, 06:25:28 PM
Tom,
I agree with PRR Modeler. Aren't P-pastels awesome! Nice work on the chimneys. I got my nose against the monitor. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thank you also. The pastels are awesome. They really work well and blend very easily.
I wondered whose nose print that was, now I know.
Tom ;D
Nice looking roof. Did you seal the pastels with a fixative?
Jeff
Tom,
Wonderful job on the roof, the entire station looks well maintained, yet with just enough weathering to add interest.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on May 23, 2017, 07:57:39 AM
Tom,
Wonderful job on the roof, the entire station looks well maintained, yet with just enough weathering to add interest.
What he said.....and did you see any fingerprints on your screen....them must be mine when I was trying to grab the goodies....
Wowsa! Looks great Tom. I need to pull out my Pan Pastels and start practicing with them. The roof looks really nice.
Hi Tom:
Very interesting roof. I never would have thought of a roof with light of a color on it. I really like how it came out.
Karl
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 22, 2017, 10:19:28 PM
Nice looking roof. Did you seal the pastels with a fixative?
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you. No, no sealant on the roof to fix the pastels. No one will be touching/handling it so no need.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on May 23, 2017, 07:57:39 AM
Tom,
Wonderful job on the roof, the entire station looks well maintained, yet with just enough weathering to add interest.
Jerry,
Thank you. I wanted the station to look used but not neglected. It is the early 50's and this is when the ACL, er, the A&S RR changed from the white with purple trim to green trim.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 23, 2017, 09:39:03 AM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on May 23, 2017, 07:57:39 AM
Tom,
Wonderful job on the roof, the entire station looks well maintained, yet with just enough weathering to add interest.
What he said.....and did you see any fingerprints on your screen....them must be mine when I was trying to grab the goodies....
Donato,
Thank you as well. I don't see finger prints but there are a few nose smudges on my screen. ;D ;D ;D
I think those are mine as I seem to get closer to the screen to see what I'm typing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on May 24, 2017, 08:00:15 PM
Wowsa! Looks great Tom. I need to pull out my Pan Pastels and start practicing with them. The roof looks really nice.
Mark,
Thanks, much appreciated. The P-tels work very well and the results are well worth the purchase.
Looking forward to your visit. My guest is ready for a new name.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on May 25, 2017, 11:07:31 AM
Hi Tom:
Very interesting roof. I never would have thought of a roof with light of a color on it. I really like how it came out.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you. Many of the rolled roofing on structures in the south were light gray to reflect the sun and heat. I've seen other ACL and SAL stations here in the south with silver or aluminum color roofs to combat the sun and heat.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on May 25, 2017, 11:07:31 AM
Hi Tom:
Very interesting roof. I never would have thought of a roof with light of a color on it. I really like how it came out.
Karl
Hi Karl.....the mineral surface roll roofing comes in a variety of colors (white, red, green, gray, brown, black, ets.) depending on the manufacturer. It used to be called 90# in the trade, but the stuff made today has a fiberglass base instead of the asphalt sheet, so it is lighter. The granules for the surface used to be granite, not sure what they are today.
Hi Greg:
thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
Karl
Tom, awesome structure. A lot of times, I do not put a sealer on after I have weathered with pastels. The sealer a lot of times makes the pan pastels very light so you can't see them. I also mix a little black paint with white glue for pitch around chimney's and stuff. Again, nice job.
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 09, 2017, 03:28:19 PM
Way to go Tom.....you put rolled roofing along the valleys and ran the field to it for an open valley - perfect. 8) 8) 8)
Great tutorial, Tom. Thanks for sharing. Anyone else up for a lesson in proper roofing? Rooves are my weak spot...often not happy with how they come out, especially if there's dormers, valleys, etc. involved.
Quote from: Dave K. on May 30, 2017, 05:15:03 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 09, 2017, 03:28:19 PM
Way to go Tom.....you put rolled roofing along the valleys and ran the field to it for an open valley - perfect. 8) 8) 8)
Great tutorial, Tom. Thanks for sharing. Anyone else up for a lesson in proper roofing? Rooves are my weak spot...often not happy with how they come out, especially if there's dormers, valleys, etc. involved.
If you run into a bind Dave, I'd be happy to chat with you about what you need help with. I can be reached at 407-834-2183.
Thanks, Greg! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Tom
Very nice build - I'm using my pan pastels more and more. The roof turned out great.