My Babe bought me KC's Workshop Cameron Street Apartments for Christmas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118174514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118174514.jpeg)
When the package arrived, Kenny was gracious and in the Spirit of Christmas, sent me two additional structures. He sent his Freight Depot and the Utility Shed. He mentioned he would be curious to see what I'd do with them.
His challenge was accepted so I'll call this the KC Raymo build challenge.
More in a few.
I decided to build the Utility Shed. What I liked about this kit is the structure will fit most anywhere and doesn't necessarily need to be a track side structure.
Kenny told me that he offered two versions of this kit at last years Expo.
One version was with the standard scribed siding and the other one offered board and batten siding.
I plan to build one with each type of wall, X's 2 challenge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118174223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118174223.jpeg)
I'll build the scribed siding shed for Bill and Kris Cutler. Their Pennsy Railroad needs a utility shed. This one will be painted in the Pennsy colors of Depot Buff and Brown.
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-pennsy-six-miles-west-of-altoona-and-more/ (http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-pennsy-six-miles-west-of-altoona-and-more/)
The board and batten version will be built for the Atlantic and Southern RR and will be my railroad colors of white and dark green.
Here is a photo of the pilot model I took off Kc's workshop web page.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118173935.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118173935.jpeg)
Let all the fun X's 2 begin.
Your a man on a mission!
Look forward to the builds.
Here is a photo of the Utility Shed with the Freight Depot and a Little Cabin all 3 are nice little go anywhere structures and at a low $$
Tom,
I've been "eyeballing" this kit on Ken's website, so I'll be following along for sure.
I'll be "eyeballing" this build. Do you ever take a break?
Quote from: Raymo on January 19, 2018, 06:12:34 PM
Your a man on a mission!
Raymo,
Yes, yes I am.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 19, 2018, 07:43:26 PM
Look forward to the builds.
Curt,
Thanks for following along on the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on January 19, 2018, 09:11:39 PM
Here is a photo of the Utility Shed with the Freight Depot and a Little Cabin all 3 are nice little go anywhere structures and at a low $$
Kenny,
Great little array of the three structures. The prices are very reasonable.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 20, 2018, 06:03:11 AM
Tom,
I've been "eyeballing" this kit on Ken's website, so I'll be following along for sure.
Jerry,
I'll be starting the build and posting to the thread in the next few days. Appreciate you following along on the adventure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on January 20, 2018, 07:49:33 AM
I'll be "eyeballing" this build. Do you ever take a break?
Mark,
Thanks for "eyeballig" the build as I go along. I do take as many Diet Pepsi breaks as needed. Although I believe you meant a break from building or working on the layout.
I refer back to the Diet Pepsi thing. Keeps me going.
Tom ;D
Tom 8)
Mr. Tom, Kris and I appreciate the structure for the Pennsy. We will be following along as well.
Thanks
Bill & Kris
You already know I'll be looking in..... :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 21, 2018, 10:48:01 AM
You already know I'll be looking in..... :)
Me Too.
Jim
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on January 21, 2018, 08:10:10 AM
Mr. Tom, Kris and I appreciate the structure for the Pennsy. We will be following along as well.
Thanks
Bill & Kris
Bill and Kris,
You both are very welcome, my pleasure. I appreciate you checking in on the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 21, 2018, 10:48:01 AM
You already know I'll be looking in..... :)
Greg,
Thanks for taking the time to "look in".
Tom ;D
I got my eyes on ya Tom !!
I'm tuning in. That pilot model is fantastic!
John
Quote from: Amagic41 on January 21, 2018, 09:37:53 PM
I got my eyes on ya Tom !!
Oh boy, the pressure is on now.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on January 22, 2018, 07:15:54 AM
I'm tuning in. That pilot model is fantastic!
John
John,
Thanks for following along. I think this is a great little kit.
Tom ;D
To start this build of the two utility sheds, I choose the board and batten walls first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160312.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160312.jpeg)
The first item of business prior to starting a build is to check and make sure the windows and doors fit in the laser cut openings. The door for this kit covers the door opening so the fit isn't an issue.
All the windows fit easily into the openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160322.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160322.jpeg)
More in a few.
On a board and batten wall, the battens need to be trimmed for the window to fit flush with the wall.
Here is how the windows look on top of the wall battens. You can see the gap between the wall and window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160010.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160010.jpeg)
I placed the window back into the opening and used a new #11 blade to mark the outline of the window.
The window was removed and the battens were then removed where the blade mark was made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160039.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160039.jpeg)
More after I locate a cold Diet Pepsi.
You can see how the battens were removed so the window fits flush against the wall.
I apologize for the out of focus photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160052.jpeg)
Next I want to remove the very slight bevel on the edges where the laser cut the wood. Kenny refers to the laser cut edge as a "kerf".
For this I just use an Emory board by placing the wall edge on it's side/edge and gently move it back and forth. This motion is the same as sanding the edges.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160334.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160334.jpeg)
I get my Emory boards from the local State Farm Agent. Not all agents offer the Emory boards.
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160347.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160347.jpeg)
I told Kenny I wanted to try something different with the board and batten walls. This is something I've had in my mind for years to try. I'm surprised nobody has tried this.
First I needed a very pointed pencil or two.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160105.jpeg)
Nothing sharpens a pencil better than the good old Junior High School Boston hand crank pencil sharpener. ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160116.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160116.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Many modelers when using the board and batten walls, choose to use a two color combination.
KC's workshop utility shed and CCK's old gas station are two examples I can think of. CCk's old gas station had a red, white and blue three color paint scheme where as KC's is a two color combination.
I've never seen a model with a two color board and batten paint scheme where there wasn't a paint bleed over between the two colors.
Kenny suggests using painters tape help make the paint separation. Kenny did a great job on two color paint combo. However, looking at the pilot model I can see the bleeding of the two paints.
NOTE: This is no reflection on the person who built the pilot kit. I'm just saying it is very difficult to paint two colors on a board and batten wall without it bleeding between colors.
Here's my idea I've been wanting to try for years. It requires more work in building the kit but I think it will be worth it in the end.
I plan to remove a very small section of the battens between the two paints. I will use HO scale 2x2's as a chair rail or divider if you will.
Back to the sharp pencils.
I took a metal ruler and marked on the battens where I wanted the two color separation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160127.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160127.jpeg)
You can also see in the photo above where I removed the battens for the windows to fit flush.
More in a few.
I took a sharp #11 blade and cut the batten above and below the pencil mark. I used the tip of the blade to flick out the batten.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160142.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160142.jpeg)
I then glued the 2x2's to the wall between the battens as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160201.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160201.jpeg)
More in a few.
I trimmed the 2x2's so they fit snug against the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160233.jpeg)
The next photo shows the rear of the left wall section. Note I left some of the 2x2 extend over the ends so I can trim or fit it to the adjoining wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160244.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160244.jpeg)
More in a few.
I put two adjoining walls together and trimmed the 2x2's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160258.jpeg)
Here is a view of two walls and the 2x2's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160412.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160423.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160423.jpeg)
All walls now have the 2x2's glued in place. This project took me about 4 hours extra work. Again, I think it will be well worth the time as I now have better control of where the paint flows for the two color separation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160551.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160551.jpeg)
I will cover wall bracing tomorrow.
Very interesting Tom.
Tom,
Now I have yet another reason to follow your build closely. The Delaware & Northern, which I model loosely, used a belt rail on all their stations. The smaller stations were of board and batten construction, both above and below the belt rail. The siding was all one color, but the belt rail was painted in the trim color to match the doors and windows. So, while you are using the belt rail to get a clean color separation, the procedure you used to construct it is something I can adopt when modeling the D&N stations.
I love following your build threads, they are always a learning experience for me. You continue to not only think outside the box, but to expand the box with your modeling.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 22, 2018, 06:28:00 PM
Very interesting Tom.
Curt,
Thanks for following along my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 22, 2018, 08:57:10 PM
Tom,
Now I have yet another reason to follow your build closely. The Delaware & Northern, which I model loosely, used a belt rail on all their stations. The smaller stations were of board and batten construction, both above and below the belt rail. The siding was all one color, but the belt rail was painted in the trim color to match the doors and windows. So, while you are using the belt rail to get a clean color separation, the procedure you used to construct it is something I can adopt when modeling the D&N stations.
I love following your build threads, they are always a learning experience for me. You continue to not only think outside the box, but to expand the box with your modeling.
Jerry,
"Belt rail" was the term I was trying to think of. I could only think of chair rail and didn't want to say that.
Thank you for the very generous and kind compliment on the build and the added belt rail part. I always try to make a structure "my version" when building.
I'm glad you are able to use this for your D&N RR board and batten stations.
Tom ;D
Very well done Tom.
ed
(https://pouringmyartout.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/lunapic_134331658976143_4.gif)
Quote from: engine909 on January 23, 2018, 01:02:47 PM
Very well done Tom.
ed
Ed,
Thank you kind sir, appreciate the kind support on the build. I twas a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on January 23, 2018, 01:34:08 PM
(https://pouringmyartout.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/lunapic_134331658976143_4.gif) (https://pouringmyartout.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/lunapic_134331658976143_4.gif)
Donato,
I'd say you are all eyes on this one. Look it over by all means. ;D
Tom ;D
In the instructions Kenny mentions bracing and corner trim. He suggested placing the bracing along the side edges of the peaked walls.
However, the front and rear wall sections fit between the two peaked ends. If you place the bracing along the side edges, the front and rear walls won't fit.
The instructions show the front and rear walls set INSIDE the two side/peaked walls.
Corner trim is mentioned as well but no corner trim is shown in the instructions. So brace your walls where the bracing does not interfere with the adjoining walls.
If you choose not to use the corner trim as I did, then be sure to paint the corresponding wall edges accordingly.
Here is how I braced the back of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144019.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144019.jpeg)
Prior to bracing the walls, I test fit the walls to each other to determine where the bracing should be glued.
More in a few.
The inside peaked wall has a slot cut in and the front loading dock wall has a tab. The tab fits into the slot for proper alignment.
I wanted to add an interior brace to the rear of the loading dock wall as shown below.
The two wall sections and the 1/8" bracing are not glued. They are there for your reference as to my comment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160451.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160451.jpeg)
However, if you do this, the 1/8" bracing won't fit flush to the peaked wall section. I've marked in red where you need to remove the batten in this location for this brace to fit flush to the wall. If you decide not to add a brace in this location then you don't need to remove the batten.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160440.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160440.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here you can see the batten has been removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160517.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160517.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see where I braced the peaked wall section. I glued the brace the width of the side wall from the edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160528.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220118160528.jpeg)
More in a few.
I painted the rear of each wall black. The areas not painted are where glue will be added to glue the walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144034.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144034.jpeg)
I then used Hunterline A&I Creosote Black and stained all the front walls. I set them aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144212.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144212.jpeg)
More in a few.
I only had five windows to paint. Instead of bringing out the air brush, I simply brushed the white on with a brush. I used Floquil Reefer White. When the window paint was dry (not cured) I dipped each into the Creosote Black and set them aside to dry.
The second photo shows the stain on the window on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144143.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144155.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144155.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time. Back in a few.
Tom,
Very Nice so far, and I really like the modification you made to the exterior of the board & batten. Will provide a clean and appropriate separation for your pending two color scheme.
I'll be following along,
Thanks,
--Paul
I'm going to take a little literary license here and do some fast forwarding.
I started with the Floquil Reefer White and stained the top section of each wall. I dipped the brush into the white and then into clean thinner, dabbed the tip of the brush on a paper towel and removed most of the paint and thinner.
The walls were then painted with the thinned white. I did this three times for each wall and let the walls dry between the coats.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144230.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144230.jpeg)
The wall aren't as white they appear in the photos.
Here's a better look at the white wash on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144242.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144242.jpeg)
More in a few.
After the white paint was dry and not yet cured, I painted the belt rail and the bottom portion of each wall in Floquil Weyerhauser Green. I thinned the green as I did the white. Two coats of green were applied.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144254.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144254.jpeg)
The green now appears very sun bleached.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144305.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230118144305.jpeg)
I've started assembling the walls and I'll show that tomorrow. The windows aren't glued in place, yet.
Tom
Quote from: PaulS on January 23, 2018, 05:01:33 PM
Tom,
Very Nice so far, and I really like the modification you made to the exterior of the board & batten. Will provide a clean and appropriate separation for your pending two color scheme.
I'll be following along,
Thanks,
--Paul
Paul,
Thank you for the kind words and for stopping by for a look. The belt rail adds a little individual touch to the kit.
Tom ;D
Another great, instructive build Tom. Really enjoying following along on your build.
Another great job Tom. Is the chair rail side closest to the roof painted green or white? Just curious.
Tom
Very nice work my friend. So are you sleeping these days or is it 24 hours a day in the layout room?
Tom,
I really admire how thoroughly you explain every step complete with photos. Great progress and a wonderful step by step tutorial.
Really nice job on both the bar rail and removing the battens for a more proper window placement. Even though I know that's the proper way to do things, I often fall back on "nobody will notice, anyway" and cut corners. You've reminded us what the "craftsman" in "craftsman structure kit" means. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Quote from: MAP on January 23, 2018, 05:27:24 PM
Another great, instructive build Tom. Really enjoying following along on your build.
Mark,
Thank you and I'm glad you are enjoying the build thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 23, 2018, 06:46:26 PM
Another great job Tom. Is the chair rail side closest to the roof painted green or white? Just curious.
Curt,
Thank you. The top of the rail is white and the front is green. I'll try to get a picture up later to show how it's painted.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 23, 2018, 09:11:28 PM
Tom
Very nice work my friend. So are you sleeping these days or is it 24 hours a day in the layout room?
John,
Thank you for the kind words. I haven't had much time to sleep lately. 8) 8)
My man cave train room is my home in the back of my home. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 24, 2018, 08:54:01 AM
Tom,
I really admire how thoroughly you explain every step complete with photos. Great progress and a wonderful step by step tutorial.
Jerry,
I'm very patient when building the layout or structures, other times, not so much as friends can attest.
Thanks for the compliment on the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on January 24, 2018, 04:16:16 PM
Really nice job on both the bar rail and removing the battens for a more proper window placement. Even though I know that's the proper way to do things, I often fall back on "nobody will notice, anyway" and cut corners. You've reminded us what the "craftsman" in "craftsman structure kit" means. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
There are times when I could kick myself for making some changes I've made. I do; however, try at all times to keep a mental picture of how I want the structure to look in the end. It requires my patience and due diligence in the building process.
Oh, and thank you for the nice compliment.
Tom ;D
I glued the four office walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144613.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144613.jpeg)
Kenny also includes structure flooring in the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144625.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144625.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I glued the front and rear walls inside the two peaked ends. When the office is placed over the flooring section it fits like a glove.
If by chance you choose to use corner trim, the flooring section won't fit like a glove. It will fit like it is corner trim to small. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144637.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144637.jpeg)
I next glued the rear wall section to the rear of the office wall as shown. Actually, the back wall fits next to the side peaked wall section and NOT the rear wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144652.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144652.jpeg)
More in a few.
The photo below shows how my wall fits next to the peaked end. For stability, I added the 1/8 ' bracing vertically as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144706.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144706.jpeg)
Due to my vertical brace, the fit to the wall wasn't flush. It was necessary for me to remove the first batten from the left. The area where the batten was removed is shown in the next photo. You can see where I cut the batten out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144718.jpeg)
More in a few.
I made sure both rear walls were aligned and flat during the glue drying process. I used a heavy metal piece to be sure the alignment was correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144730.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144743.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144743.jpeg)
I set this section aside to dry.
More in a few.
Here is the office floor and storage area floor.
NOTE: Do not glue the flooring together as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144758.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144758.jpeg)
If you do glue the flooring as shown above, this is how your building will look once placed over the flooring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144810.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144810.jpeg)
NOTE: You want the two flooring sections glued together with the rear flush with each other.
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
The photo below shows you how NOT to position the loading dock decking.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144845.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144845.jpeg)
The next photo shows how the loading dock should look, out in front of the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144859.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144859.jpeg)
More in a few.
Kenny did an excellent job at laser cutting in the individual boards and knot holes on the loading dock platform.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144913.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144913.jpeg)
However, it is a scale 6 inches thick and looks way out of scale to me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144928.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144928.jpeg)
More in a few.
I tried an extreme fix.
I used my belt sander and shave off 3 inches of the thickness. Three inches is still to thick for me but I was concerned I'd shave 3" off my fingers if I continued that process. :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144945.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144945.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144958.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240118144958.jpeg)
I have a solution for this and still be able to save/use Kenny's flooring.
You'll have to wait on this little fix as I'm going to move on to the other build using the scribed siding.
I forgot to show the building walls all glued in place but can be seen in previous photos above.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162024.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162024.jpeg)
I used Canopy Glue for the window glass. When dry I painted the backs to represent shades and glued the windows in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162037.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162037.jpeg)
More in a few.
I painted some 2x6's in the same way I did the walls. I used the 2x6's for exterior rafters.
Kenny included the 2x6's in the kit. The 2x6's are longer than needed but will be trimmed to fit after the roof panels are installed.
You can also see in these photos the top of the belt/chair rail is painted white and the front is green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162049.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162049.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250118162101.jpeg)
Another great build and how to Tom.
Tom,
Looks great, as usual. I'll be interested to see how you make the flooring thinner. I do not recommend trying it on a belt sander like you did, glad you stopped before an "Ouch". I have gotten my finger into a moving sanding belt a couple times and it is not a rewarding experience.
To cut that out of 1/32 stock is too brittle... I have had a few customers just do it board by board
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 25, 2018, 04:56:27 PM
Another great build and how to Tom.
Curt,
Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 25, 2018, 05:25:30 PM
Tom,
Looks great, as usual. I'll be interested to see how you make the flooring thinner. I do not recommend trying it on a belt sander like you did, glad you stopped before an "Ouch". I have gotten my finger into a moving sanding belt a couple times and it is not a rewarding experience.
Jerry,
I mentioned the belt sander as an extreme but I have a great idea and still be able to use Kenny's deck. More on that later.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Amagic41 on January 25, 2018, 06:43:48 PM
To cut that out of 1/32 stock is too brittle... I have had a few customers just do it board by board
Kenny,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes, the board by board will work as well. I thought about it but came up with a way to make it look board by board and still use what you provided in the kit. It will look just as good.
Tom ;D
Construction has started for the second utility shed. This one is scribed siding and is being built for Bill and Kris Cutler's Pennsy, Six Miles West of Altoona and More.
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-pennsy-six-miles-west-of-altoona-and-more/ (http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-pennsy-six-miles-west-of-altoona-and-more/)
It will be painted in the old Pennsy colors, walls Buff and trim Brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151903.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151903.jpeg)
I used the small Ponce Wheel from Micro Mark and added the obligatory nail holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151915.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151915.jpeg)
I may as well get the Diet Pepsi now as I have a lot to cover this afternoon.
Back when ever.
I sanded the "kerfs", meaning I sanded the edges of the walls where the laser cut at an angle. I also test fit the five windows and all fit well with no adjustments needed.
I marked in red on the rear of the walls to indicate where bracing should be glued.
NOTE: On this build I used HO scale 10x10's for the bracing. Kenny includes six (6) 1/8" pieces, close to being 14 X 14, for bracing in the kits. I like the smaller 10 x 10's for smaller structures.
I used the larger 1/8" on the first utility shed and they worked fine as well. Just personal preference here.
NOTE TO KENNY: With all the bracing I did on the first utility shed, I only used 4 of the 6 1/8" sq. bracing pieces. You can cut the kit down to 4 and save some money.
Here is where I will brace the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151927.jpeg)
More in a few.
Okay, I made a mistake and marked in red where a brace SHOULD NOT be glued. See below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151939.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151939.jpeg)
The reason no bracing goes here is due to the end wall brace fitting flush to the area I marked in red on the right side.
Again, see below photo for picture explanation. These walls are not glued at this time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151952.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118151952.jpeg)
More in a few.
In the above photo, notice how neat and clean the bracing is at the top of the peaked wall?
Ever wonder how we as modelers get them like that?
Here's the angle on doing it. I couldn't resist a little pun there in the angle. However, it is literally in the angle of the cut.
Here is how I do it. I've never shared this technique in the past. And, I don't always do it this way.
In the next photo notice how the 10x10 extends above the right side of the peaked roof. DO NOT glue the brace in place at this time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152006.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152006.jpeg)
Cut off the extention of the 10x10 off at the angle of the peaked roof side.
Here is how it looks from the rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152020.jpeg)
More in a few.
Now, take this piece, turn it over and "butt" it against the center brace as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152033.jpeg)
Perfect fit, er, I mean angle. Neat huh?
Now you can glue it in place and let dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152116.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152116.jpeg)
More in a few.
When the brace is dry, you can cut the brace off the side as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152129.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152129.jpeg)
Again, flip the 10x10 over and butt it against the upper brace as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152151.jpeg)
More in a few.
Do the same with the other side and here is how it should look. Nice professional cut and easy peasy!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152204.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152204.jpeg)
As mentioned, it's all in the angle.
More in a few.
When gluing the pieces on the wall, I place a metal bar against the wall. I press the brace down and against wall and metal bar for a clean glue job between the brace and rear of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152242.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152242.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152257.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152257.jpeg)
Not to tricksie but easy peasy.
Continued in a few more.
This method can be used for even small cuts on a peaked wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152216.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118163814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118163814.jpeg)
In a few more.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152316.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152331.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152344.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118152344.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118163814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118163814.jpeg)
All braced and ready to paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118164553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270118164553.jpeg)
Looks great Tom.
Tom,
That bracing looks so good, maybe you should model the building inside out!
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 27, 2018, 05:56:34 PM
Looks great Tom.
Curt,
Thank you. Much appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 27, 2018, 07:45:44 PM
Tom,
That bracing looks so good, maybe you should model the building inside out!
Jerry,
Thank you. And, you may be on to something. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Curt Webb, PRRModeler on the forum, gave me some paint advice for Pennsy structures. He told me that Tamiya Buff, #XF-57 is a very good match for the walls and he mentioned a couple of browns for the trim and windows, doors.
I was at the local hobby shop on Saturday afternoon and picked up the Tamiya Buff. While there I found Tamiya Red Brown #XF-64 for the brown color. The "Red" in Red Brown had me for a few minutes until I realized this structure will be heavily weathered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170653.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170653.jpeg)
Here are the two colors painted on the rear of some scribed siding. Both colors are full strength out of the bottles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170709.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170709.jpeg)
More in a few.
I applied two very light coats of Hunterline A&I Creosote Black to the walls. I set them aside to thoroughly dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171547.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171547.jpeg)
I noticed when the A&I dried all the nail holes disappeared. So, the nail holes were "ponced" back into the walls.
I used a 1/4" soft brush to paint the walls.
I dipped the brush into some clean 70% alcohol and then into the Tamiya Buff paint. I then dabbed the tip of the brush on a clean paper towel and then brushed the paint on the walls. I periodically dipped the brush in the paint and alcohol to get the desired result.
I let the first coat dry and then applied a second coat. Again, I noticed the nail holes missing so I "ponced" the a third and final time.
Here are the walls after the second coat of Tamiya Buff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171601.jpeg)
My photo makes it look like Floquil Driftwood but it is buff colored.
The third application of nail holes added to the wall on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171615.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171615.jpeg)
More in a few.
I applied the A&I stain to the corner trim and let dry. I then used the same method of the Red Brown on the trim and let these dry overnight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171629.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171629.jpeg)
I painted the windows using the red brown and alcohol mix. The Tamiya paints are an Alcohol based paint so the blending or thinning of the paint with alcohol works very well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171646.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118171646.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time folks. Back in a few.
Tom, Always a pleasure to view your modeling.
ed
Quote from: engine909 on January 28, 2018, 05:45:01 PM
Tom, Always a pleasure to view your modeling.
ed
Ed,
Thank you, always happy to have you follow along on any build thread.
Tom ;D
Over the years, I've kept the back of legal and note pads. The cardboard is perfect for some replacement roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170236.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170236.jpeg)
The roof panels Kenny supplied in the kit fit fine. However, as a personal preference, I wanted my roof to hang over just a little more. I cut a new roof panel and added an additional 6 HO scale inches to the width of the card.
KC's card on the top and the new one on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170249.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170249.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided on how much I wanted the roof to hang over the front and rear walls by placing the structure over some cardboard.
I then marked and cut it accordingly. Oddly enough, my width turned out to be the same as the supplied roof cards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170305.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170305.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is how the new size roof panel looks front and rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170333.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170333.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170319.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170319.jpeg)
Back in a few, I forgot to get the Diet Pepsi.
I added a ridge beam for added roof support.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170356.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170356.jpeg)
I painted the freight door to match the walls. I used an HO scale 2X2 for the door slide bar. I painted the bar with Floquil Rail Brown. You can use any rust color as well. The door was glued to the 2X2 and the substructure was then glued to the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170412.jpeg)
More in a few.
The door hangers were painted Floquil Rail Brown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170441.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170441.jpeg)
I mentioned earlier in the post I had something I wanted to try with the floors supplied in the kit. They are 6 HO scale inches thick. To hide the thickness this is what I did.
I stained some HO scale 2X8's and edge glued them to the outside edges of the floor on all sides. I used Hunterline Medium Brown for the stain.
This next photo shows the bottom side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170526.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170526.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I placed the shed on the top side of the floor and marked with a pencil where the decking fits to the wall.
I'm going to fast forward here and show that the decking is in place. I used 2X8's and a few 2X6's for the freight deck. When the glue dried, I used the soft side of an Emory Board to sand some of the stain off the boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170543.jpeg)
You can see that I also randomly cut the front of the boards like Kenny did with the laser.
Here is the new deck boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170626.jpeg)
More in a few.
I glued the front and rear roof cards in place.
I painted the underside of the roof panel in Floquil Reefer White.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170816.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170816.jpeg)
I did the same on each gabled end. Nothing grates me more than to see a model, be it a contest model or manufacturer model where the underside of the roof panel can be seen in the natural cardboard. There, I said it. And, I'm not pointing fingers, just stating a fact that bothers moi!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170610.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170610.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also added exterior rafters to each end of the shed.
These were glued to the outside edge of the roof panel and not under the edge. They are flush with the top of the panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170556.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170556.jpeg)
Here you can see how they are glued to the edge.
Flush on the top and on the outside edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170626.jpeg)
More in a few.
Oops, well I need to upload and crop more pictures. That will happen tomorrow.
I. M. Dunn for tonight and not only that I'm finished for this fine day.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170639.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280118170639.jpeg)
Great job Tom. I will have to check out the red brown color.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 28, 2018, 08:38:37 PM
Great job Tom. I will have to check out the red brown color.
Curt,
Thank you. I hope you feel better soon. I had the crud twice this past year.
Tom ;D
Included in the kit is a HO scale 12 X 12 laser cut to represent brick piers.
One of KC's suggestions is to paint the brick white, getting the white down to look like mortar. You could also used a gray for the white. When dry, I painted the bricks with Floquil Rock Island Maroon. No, it actually isn't maroon in color but more like red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155817.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155817.jpeg)
Here is a photo of part of my fireplace. In the building trade these are referred to as Tennessee Reds. They aren't actually red but more a rust or burnt sienna.
It took me three days to chisel the mortar off the bricks. You can see a few have the soot burned into the brick. Yes, I hauled these back from Tennessee.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155831.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155831.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155845.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155845.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155858.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155858.jpeg)
These will be weathered later in the build and not be as red as shown here.
Continued in a few.
I put these in the NWSL chopper and cut them at a HO scale 2 feet in height. I got ten brick piers out of one piece, cutting them at a scale two feet.
I then glued them to the bottom of the utility shed floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155913.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155913.jpeg)
I used a heavy weight on the top to hold the flooring down until the glue dried.
Close enough for A&S RR work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155927.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided to add additional exterior rafters to this kit. I spaced them every 18 scale inches on center.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155954.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118155954.jpeg)
When Kenny sent me the kit he also included roof shingles and corrugated siding to use on the roof to very the structure.
Since the White/Green is going on the A&S RR, I opted for rolled roofing paper which is appropriate for the South.
I used Stoney Creek Designs Rolled Roofing material. Transfer tape was used on the cardboard and then the rolled roofing was applied to the sticky tape. I weathered the roof with Pan Pastels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160008.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160008.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160020.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160034.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160034.jpeg)
I also decided to use a scale 4X4 post on the corner to support this corner of the roof overhang.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160052.jpeg)
Oops, forgot to show the extra roofing material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118163824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118163824.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time.
The only other item needed for the shed is a set of steps. These aren't included in the kit but can be easily made.
Here is a possible location for the utility shed, just down the track from the water tower in the heart of the piney woods.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160122.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160122.jpeg)
More in a few.
Awesome modeling Tom.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 29, 2018, 05:31:53 PM
Awesome modeling Tom.
Curt,
Much appreciate you following along my friend, thank you.
Tom ;D
If the structure does in fact get planted here, I'll need to adjust the track side scenery to fit the shed and brick piers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160109.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160137.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160137.jpeg)
More in a few.
No need to repeat the building process for the second shed but here are some progress pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160203.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160203.jpeg)
More in a few.
I made one final test fit of the shed on the flooring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160220.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118160220.jpeg)
I added the brick piers to the under side of the floor. I'll weather them later. I applied one light coat of Hunterline Light Gray to the walls.
I also took a small brush and added Hunterline Light Gray A&I only to the nail holes to give the shed a more weathered look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118180608.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290118180608.jpeg)
Done for now on this thread.
Tom
The building really looks nice - great colors.
Tom,
I like the results you got on the brick you hauled back from Tennessee. How did you do them?
Tom,
Once again, a great step by step with lots of tips on how to improve any structure, not just the one you constructed for the thread.
Both structures look great, my hat's off to you, not only for the excellence of your work, but for taking the time to document this and so many other builds.
Great builds Tom.....like the location of the first one near the water tower. 8)
OK Tom I'll jump in again.... I really think you're doing a wonderful job showing just what this kit was designed for. I wanted to give a beginner something they could build for low $ and not feel intimidated by the price and get a nice little structure, and something the experienced modeler could put about anywhere and could be modified( Bashed) or added to just like the board by board porch or changing up the roofing and adding rafter tails etc. also for and low price I think you'll agree for a $25 kit it does just that. One of the complaints I often heard at shows was new modelers were intimidated by the prices of craftsman kits and afraid to jump in to the hobby and give it a try. So I tried to put a couple structures, (4) so far to try to get newbies building !
Kenny,
I moved my response to the end of the thread. 8)
Tom ;D
Both the "workshops" look great. The modifications you made make them even better. I may need to add one of these to my "stash". ;D
Jeff
Quote from: S&S RR on January 29, 2018, 06:46:49 PM
Tom
The building really looks nice - great colors.
John,
Thank you kind sir. Appreciate you following the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on January 29, 2018, 08:53:14 PM
Tom,
I like the results you got on the brick you hauled back from Tennessee. How did you do them?
Steve,
Back in the early 70's my parents bought a 200+ year old log cabin from a family in Tennessee. They had a builder mark and catalog each log. The cabin was taken apart and rebuilt on their property in Maggie Valley, NC.
On the same property we found an old brick chimney. It was horizontal on the ground and somewhat busted in pieces. I knew I was going to build a fireplace at some point and liked the color of those bricks.
I made the farmer an offer of $3.00 per brick. I think I paid the old guy around $1,400.00 total. He agreed but said I would be responsible for breaking up the brick from the mortar and other bricks. He said the old chimney was left from his Great Grandfather's cabin and was about 200 years old. The cabin burned some 100 years ago, around 1878, and the chimney eventually fell over where it lay for that time.
I went back a month later with a trailer, two hammers and a cold chisel. I spent a few days with the chisel breaking away the old mortar and bricks. At one time, part of the chimney got white washed so that is the white on the bricks.
Anyway, I really didn't do anything to the bricks other than to chisel off what old mortar I could. I didn't make any attempt to clean them and as you can see you can still see some mortar, fire soot and white wash on the bricks.
When we built the fireplace, I told the brick mason to just pick a brick and lay it in. All the bricks were laid in a random pattern with no regard to look. You can see some are chipped and broken. We used the broken ones on the ends (half bricks for corners) and so on. I'm very pleased at the look. It looks like an old fireplace.
I bet the old guy's great grandfather never thought his chimney would end up in Orlando some 200+ years later in another fireplace. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 30, 2018, 06:58:08 AM
Tom,
Once again, a great step by step with lots of tips on how to improve any structure, not just the one you constructed for the thread.
Both structures look great, my hat's off to you, not only for the excellence of your work, but for taking the time to document this and so many other builds.
Jerry,
Thank you for the kind and generous comments on the two builds. It does take a lot of extra time to document each build. I'm happy to do it if it helps other modelers in techniques and other information.
Your comments are very much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 30, 2018, 08:48:07 AM
Great builds Tom.....like the location of the first one near the water tower. 8)
Greg,
Much appreciate the comment, thank you. If the white one stays put, I'll need to fix the surrounding scenery accordingly.
Tom ;D
Looking good Tom!
Hi Tom:
Just went through the thread and the builds look great.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on January 30, 2018, 01:45:41 PM
Hi Tom:
Just went through the thread and the builds look great.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you my friend, thanks very much.
Tom ;D
I decided to use the roofing paper Kenny supplied in the kit. I cut the sheet in half.
I turned the line side down and painted the sheet with Tamiya German Black # XF-63. Actually, it's a very nice dark gray color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164107.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164107.jpeg)
After two hours the paper was dry and I cut the roofing paper along the lines printed on the sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164121.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164121.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also added the exterior rafter tails to this shed as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164136.jpeg)
I used Elmer's Glue Stick for gluing the paper on the roof. I purchased a three pack for a couple bucks ($) from Staples.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118165501.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118165501.jpeg)
More in a few. I'm late getting the Diet Pepsi.
I spread the glue on the roof and added the roofing papers. I then weathered the roof using Pan Pastels.
Reading Bob gave me a bottle of Simulated Liquid Leading by Gallery Glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118170318.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118170318.jpeg)
This is great for representing the tar pitch on the roof. No fuss, no muss and no mixing white glue and black paint.
I squirted some in the hole I punched in the roof for the vent pipe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164149.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164149.jpeg)
More in a few.
I had previously paint the vent pipe, also supplied in the kit. I then pushed the pipe through the tar and into the hole. The tar collected around the pipe as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164204.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164204.jpeg)
I next turned my attention to making stairs for the shed freight platform. I used a scale 2X10 and cut the stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164216.jpeg)
Now to make three more.
Back in a few more. ;D ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164244.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164244.jpeg)
I made the additional three stringers and stained them with the Hunterline Medium Brown A&I.
I glued two of the stringers to the shed. Then I was thinking if this is a track side shed, which this one for the Pennsy is, how are the trucks going to back up to the dock.
I decided to use a wall ladder on mine and here is a look at the two sheds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164231.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164231.jpeg)
More in a few.
The heck with the stairs, I opted to go with the wall ladder on both.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164301.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164301.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164425.jpeg)
A few photos to follow.
Both sheds are now finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164301.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164301.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164343.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164356.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164356.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300118164409.jpeg)
I think KC's Workshop hit the nail on the head when they offered this kit as a starter or less expensive craftsman kit. This kit has so many options/possibilities for any level modeler and the price of $24.95 is well worth it.
There certainly is more for your money in this kit than many others. I worked about 40 hours on both kits so my time was close to $1.25 of fun per hour. Not a bad price considering all offered in one kit. This is an excellent kit for beginners as well as advanced modelers. For me, I couldn't just build it as packaged but I do this with all the kits I build.
Also, most kits or at least many kits are location specific. An example would be the FSM and SRMW kits which are mostly New England type structures. This kit can be used as a track or road side shed and will/can fit anywhere on the layout in any part of the country.
Not only are the instructions easy to follow but a list of "Tools and Supplies" needed to build the kit should be extremely helpful to many modelers. There is also a section on page two of this sheet regarding additional tools titled NICE BUT NOT ESSENTIAL.
This is a "can't miss kit" for the price and well worth the time invested in building it. As I've shown, you can kit bash the kit as well if desired.
For KC's Workshop, this is another winner.
Thank you Kenny for having the confidence in my abilities to build and post a thread on this kit.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Your brick from Tennesse is a very good example of how to make old brick look from a modeling standpoint. I am going to build the Scale Structures roundhouse using Monsterworks brick and stone, I am going to try to duplicate this.
Quote from: sdrees on January 30, 2018, 05:36:16 PM
Tom,
Your brick from Tennesse is a very good example of how to make old brick look from a modeling standpoint. I am going to build the Scale Structures roundhouse using Monsterworks brick and stone, I am going to try to duplicate this.
Steve,
You are correct. No two bricks are the same. We love the look of the old and used brick look on the fireplace.
Thanks also for following on the build thread.
Tom ;D
Mr. Tom, both sheds look fantastic my friend. What else can be said.
Bill
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on January 30, 2018, 06:04:59 PM
Mr. Tom, both sheds look fantastic my friend. What else can be said.
Bill
Bill and Kris,
Thank you, much appreciated. You may take possession of it on Friday.
I'll of course have to wait to see how it looks on the Pennsy, Six Miles West of Altoona.
Tom ;D
Excellent modeling Tom.
I don't know what to say Tom.....
.... so I'll just say "Excellent".....
(https://static.superdeluxe.com/dankland/generators/mr-burns-excellent.jpg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 30, 2018, 06:53:37 PMExcellent modeling Tom.
Curt,
Thanks very much, I'm only 7 years late in my response. 8)
Tom
Quote from: donatode on February 01, 2018, 03:34:06 PMI don't know what to say Tom.....
.... so I'll just say "Excellent".....
(https://static.superdeluxe.com/dankland/generators/mr-burns-excellent.jpg)
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom
Those small structures, with all their details, really fill in the layout.....good work Tom..... 8)
Nice work Tom!