KC's Workshop X's 2 - Third build Challenge

[GPdemayo]

You already know I'll be looking in.....

[jimmillho]

You already know I'll be looking in.....

Me Too.

Jim

[ACL1504]

Mr. Tom, Kris and I appreciate the structure for the Pennsy. We will be following along as well.
Thanks
Bill & Kris

Bill and Kris,

You both are very welcome, my pleasure. I appreciate you checking in on the build.

Tom

[ACL1504]

You already know I'll be looking in.....

Greg,

Thanks for taking the time to "look in".

Tom

[ACL1504]

You already know I'll be looking in.....

Me Too.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks, much appreciated.

Tom

[Amagic41]

I got my eyes on ya Tom !!

[cuse]

I'm tuning in. That pilot model is fantastic!


John

[ACL1504]

I got my eyes on ya Tom !!

Oh boy, the pressure is on now.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I'm tuning in. That pilot model is fantastic!


John

John,

Thanks for following along. I think this is a great little kit.

Tom

[ACL1504]

To start this build of the two utility sheds, I choose the board and batten walls first.



The first item of business prior to starting a build is to check and make sure the windows and doors fit in the laser cut openings. The door for this kit covers the door opening so the fit isn't an issue.

All the windows fit easily into the openings.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

On a board and batten wall, the battens need to be trimmed for the window to fit flush with the wall.   

Here is how the windows look on top of the wall battens. You can see the gap between the wall and window.



I placed the window back into the opening and used a new #11 blade to mark the outline of the window.

The window was removed and the battens were then removed where the blade mark was made.



More after I locate a cold Diet Pepsi.

[ACL1504]

You can see how the battens were removed so the window fits flush against the wall.

I apologize for the out of focus photo.



Next I want to remove the very slight bevel on the edges where the laser cut the wood. Kenny refers to the laser cut edge as a "kerf".

For this I just use an Emory board by placing the wall edge on it's side/edge and gently move it back and forth. This motion is the same as sanding the edges.



I get my Emory boards from the local State Farm Agent. Not all agents offer the Emory boards.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I told Kenny I wanted to try something different with the board and batten walls. This is something I've had in my mind for years to try. I'm surprised nobody has tried this.

First I needed a very pointed pencil or two.



Nothing sharpens a pencil better than the good old Junior High School Boston hand crank pencil sharpener.




Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Many modelers when using the board and batten walls, choose to use a two color combination.

KC's workshop utility shed and CCK's old gas station are two examples I can think of. CCk's old gas station had a red, white and blue three color paint scheme where as KC's is a two color combination.

I've never seen a model with a two color board and batten paint scheme where there wasn't a paint bleed over between the two colors.

Kenny suggests using painters tape help make the paint separation. Kenny did a great job on two color paint combo. However, looking at the pilot model I can see the bleeding of the two paints.

NOTE: This is no reflection on the person who built the pilot kit. I'm just saying it is very difficult to paint two colors on a board and batten wall without it bleeding between colors.

Here's my idea I've been wanting to try for years. It requires more work in building the kit but I think it will be worth it in the end.

I plan to remove a very small section of the battens between the two paints. I will use HO scale 2x2's as a chair rail or divider if you will.

Back to the sharp pencils.

I took a metal ruler and marked on the battens where I wanted the two color separation.



You can also see in the photo above where I removed the battens for the windows to fit flush.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I took a sharp #11 blade and cut the batten above and below the pencil mark. I used the tip of the blade to flick out the batten.



I then glued the 2x2's to the wall between the battens as shown below.



More in a few.