Looks like I am the first to post a thread on this one. Very excited to start it. I received the kit as a Christmas gift, but since then have been finishing up the first Bar Mills FSM Tribute kit. I've been somewhat absent from posting to the kit building forum lately because I've been working on the landforms and scenery to locate the Tribute kit on my layout. Although not 100% done yet, I'm close enough that I can turn my attention to the next BIG KIT! To those that followed my FSM Tribute build (thank you all for the encouragement throughout), don't worry, I will be posting "final" (is there such a thing?) pics of the buildings on the layout with scenery.
On to "The Terminal."
There is a tremendous amound of material in this box. I imagine everyone has seen the pics of the kit on the FOS site, so I'll skip the image of the box cover. I spread out the entire contents on my workbench and it took three shots to capture it all, and that is with multiple carrier sheets of walls and etc stacked on top of each other. Below is pic one.
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And some more:
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And still more:
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Apologies, that last image is a little dark. I purchased the optional Canal Street Market add-on, so that is in there somewhere. As I noted above, I'm very excited to start this kit, but I don't want to get ahead of myself, so time to put up my feet and read through the instruction book from cover to cover.
Cheers!
--Opa George
Big kit George.....I'll be looking in. :)
Ditto
Eric
I'll be following George.
Yep. Watching.
Count me in!
Popcorn's ready!
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Woo-hoo! Been waiting for someone to start this!
I'll be following, what an enormous bundle of joy. Oh and George , we also like seeing photo's of progress on layouts, hint, hint.
Thanks very much for following, Gregory, Eric, Curt, Vince, Darryl, Dave and Jan. :) I certainly enjoy the company!
We begin with the big corner building that really anchors the kit: Caswell Shoe Company. I confess this is my very first FOS kit, and while the construction methods are pretty standard across the different kit makers, the organization and procedures do vary. While some companies segregate all the wall parts for individual buildings into labled bags, FOS does not. With the overall complexity of a kit such as this, I imagine that would add considerably to the final cost, so you're on your own to puzzle out which wall is which as not all of the carrier sheets are diagrammed and identified.
So I took my time, referred to the pictures, plans, and illustrations and finally determined that these are the walls I need for Caswell Shoe:
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There are two walls that kept me guessing and hunting for quite a while: #21(lower right corner, square wall) and the bottom part of #20 (the two-part peaked wall). I could not locate these on any of the larger carrier sheets with the rest of the show factory walls, and finally found them in one of the two small sealed pouches of random walls. I am still not entirely sure that the wall I have identified as #21 is correct, simply because (if I read my plans correctly) it is a hidden dividing wall between the factory and the garage. My understanding is that those common walls are usually cardstock, instead of the more expensive scribed siding. However the size appears to be correct and I could not find a similar wall on the plans for any of the other buildings. We will see! ;)
Doug recommends bracing the walls prior to any other work, but I prefer to do my distressing while the walls can be held totally flat. Below I am using a half-inch plumber's welding brush from Home Depot, a tool which has been making an appearance on the forum lately. It does a nice job of adding grain to the boards when brushed along the boards.
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I enjoy the distressing part--take my time and examine results frequently. Below I am using a card file for a different look. Some of the wall sections are quite intricate in design, or rather fragile, so as much fun as it is to beat them up, it must be done carefully and often with a light touch. A heavy hand can easily snap them in half or take out a thin strip around a window or door. Really vigorous scrubbing can also introduce a warp. :(
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By the way, after all that work identifying walls, I took the extra step of marking them in pencil by number on the reverse. I also "checked" them off the plan as I located them. This will reduce the amount of time going back and forth from instruction book to plans when working with specific walls. It also helps me to keep them correctly vertically oriented. Nothing more irritating than attaching a wall upside down, or installing windows upside down. :o
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Here is the first "problem" I have encountered, although easily fixed. First is that the production model and all the photos, as well as the plans, show a freight door in that overhanging wall to the right of this main wall section. The plans detail how to trim it out, but as you can see, no door cut out of the wall. But I can do that once I know the size of the door that goes there.
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The last photo shows all of the plastic window and door castings (for all the structures) primed with Rustoleum spray flat gray primer. Nothing exciting here. I kept them on the sprues and will remove them before painting the final color. Nicely done castings with no flash.
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On to lifting boards, and a few more distressing chores before an alcohol and ink wash.
--George
George,
Count me in on the followers as well. I have this one so I'm very interested in how it all fits.
I have fun just laying all the parts out when starting a kit.
Tom ;D
Great start George. On complicated kits I mark the pieces after scratching my head while looking at the templates! ;D
This is a fun kit to build. You'll really enjoy it.
Thanks for following along, Tom. Glad to have you checking in. Curt, indeed I have already done a fair amount of head scratching, but so far so good! :) Thanks also, Dockman, for the encouragement. It is starting off as a challenging kit, but those are the ones that give the most satisfaction when done, right?
I followed the work above by preparing the 1/16th trim. Below, I am giving it a light distressing by carefully drawing an Exacto saw blade along the length of each strip.
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Once the trim wood was ready, I gave all the walls and the trim a wash with a strong A & I solution. I used the 91% alcohol as it dries faster and minimizes warping. I define it as "stong" because I start with 3 tablespoons of India ink to a pint of alcohol, but I store it in a plastic tub that is not quite airtight, so some evaporation occurs. Regardless, below are the walls and trim drying.
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I decided to try the sponge painting technique. I kept some synthetic foam packing blocks that came with some electronics, which appear to be the same type of material as the kitchen sponges recommended by Doug Foscale. I cut off a workable chunk, dabbed it in white craft acrylic paint, blotted off the excess, then began working on the walls. I like the result, and it was a lot faster than dry-brushing the paint on for a faded look. There are few spots that I want to dress up with some sanding, but overall not bad. This is a good place to stop and let everything dry overnight.
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One more note: I spray-painted the backs of all walls with Rustoleum Camoflage Super Flat Black. Below, I flipped over two of the walls to show the effect. Note that I didn't go too heavy--just enough to keep the interior dark once the walls are together.
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That's about it for today. Tomorrow evening I'll trim out the walls and freight door openings with the 1/16th stripwood. This seems to be moving along pretty well. I'll be installing windows and putting on signs before long! :)
--George
I probably didn't get as much done as planned, but on the other hand I do like taking my time with a good kit. And a long weekend is coming up!
Below, a pic of all the walls of the shoe factory trimmed out. I also began assembly of wall 18, which is the "front" wall of the structure. Now that the paint has cured, Doug's suggestion to try sponge painting the first coat is a good one. This is a departure from first applying a solid coat of base color to the A&I weathered walls, then sponging on earth to represent peeled paint. In sponging on the primary coat, I believe the peeling/chipping effect is more pronounced.
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Below, a closeup of the front wall. I installed the laser-cut freight doors and one of the plastic windows. As you may notice, I cut out the "missing" freight door on the lower right and trimmed it out and then installed a door. All good so far and everything fits together well. The only trimming I will need to do is sand the bottom of the main freight doors even with the wall bottom.
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Per the instructions, I should install signs--at least the big ones--next. Hopefully tomorrow for that.
All for now. -- George
Nice job on the walls George.
George,
I agree, love the walls.
Tom ;D
Looking good, George
Looking good Opa George! Nice start on the kit.
Thanks much, Curt, Tom, Vince & Bruce.
Today I installed most of the windows, a few of the large signs, and began glazing the windows. On this building, the topmost walls of the cupola use laser cut windows instead of plastic castings, and although the instructions don't identify the part numbers, only one set of laser windows appeared to be the correct size, so those are the ones I used. As long as they fit it shouldn't really matter. Below is a progress shot of several walls with signs, window castings and glazing. Lots more to do in this department, though--big building with lots of windows.
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My preference is to use clear plastic for window glazing. I keep my eye out for large clear plastic "panels" as a supply--usually from packaging. Some are not compatible with the liquid plastic cement, but most work well. I used super glue to cement the glazing to the laser cut windows and doors.
By the way, I picked up a tip from a radio science show about using super glue. I did not know that it sets by reacting with water molecules in the air. The scientist researcher said you can simply breath on a part before touching it to a surface with super glue and it will set almost immediately. So I tried it here and it worked.
--George
Great looking windows and signage.
Great looking walls and signs, and thanks for the breathing tip.
Great start, George.👍🏻 Funny...I just posted that same NuGrape sign yesterday for the HO Scale Customs guys on Facebook. Love that one. Doug's got good taste in vintage signs. Enjoying the thread!👍🏻
Been following along on this one. Great work on the walls so far. Keep those progress pics coming.
George,
Love the walls, great start. Once again I'll be looking over your shoulder.
Thanks again, Curt. Welcome and thank you for the support, Jan and Jerry. Mark, here is another picture with the latest progress on the walls. Dave, I'm a patron of Todd and Brett at HO Scale Customs--I really enjoy their weekly podcasts and stories.
Below is a picture of all the walls for Caswell Manufacturing, the corner industry in The Terminal kit. Window glazing, shades and most signs are installed. Looking at this pic, I realize I forgot to put on the flag hanging from the center loft door. That's a signature image of this structure and I will be adding it.
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Note so far: It has all come together to this point very well. It is certainly not a beginner's kit--as I knew going in--and Doug assumes you know your basic wall preparation steps. You also need to take your time, look at every picture, plan and drawing, fit parts together in advance and puzzle out for yourself a few steps that are glossed over. But I like that. It makes me feel heavily invested in the building process.
One step I took in advance of starting was to download every single picture of the kit from the FOS Scale Models site, as well as those posted on their Facebook page, into a digital reference file. Even at this early stage I have studied those images intensely to figure out a few assembly steps.
The image above shows two cardboard ("chipboard" in the instructions) walls that are basically unfinished. That is by design and per the instructions. We'll get to those in a few more steps.
Now I get to start putting walls together. More later.
--George
wow, looks great!!! looking forward to the photos of your walls going together!
George looks great. That's a great idea about downloading the pictures. I have been going to the website to look at the pictures. That tends to be a pain in the rump at times.
Thank you, Bob. Here are some first pics. Curt, I believe as long as I am not distributing them anywhere it is ok. It sure saves time when all I want is a quick look for reference. And I can blow them up--most are very high resolution.
So getting the walls together is pretty straightforward until you get to the long angled wall, which Doug refers to as the "squad" wall. Per instructions I sanded a bit, tested the fit, sanded some more, tested, etc. I began to see a spot in the center of that long wall where, despite my best efforts, it was not going to fit perfectly. I decided to glue and clamp both ends and deal with the center after the ends had set.
Below is the front corner clamped and drying. This area fit very well.
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Here is my problem joint. You can see the gap at the center where the long wall is supposed to join smoothly with the upper floating wall. I tried forcing the fit--seldom a good idea but occasionally you can get away with it--but it introduced a noticeable bow in the wall and threw the back angle out of alignment. That would be trouble later when joining the next structure, the garage, onto this structure.
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From close reference with the pilot model on the FOS website, I noted that joint has lots of interesting details, including an eccentric vent pipe, so I decided to build out the side wall to meet the angled wall. It only took a length of scale 2x6 to close the gap. I will probably run a downspout here anyway, so hopefully it will look like a minor "jog" in the building where an addition was added. Here is the building shell with the basic walls together.
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And the other side. We're moving along!
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Oh by the way, my wonderful wife gave me this to open on my birthday a few day ago:
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--George
Great birthday present.
Hey George:
Looks great so far. Will be following along
Really looks good, George. I haven't built a FOS kit, yet but I do have a couple of the big ones and the instructions do look a bit lean. It's helpful to have you journalling your adventure!
Welcome along, Karl--great to have you following.
Vince, as this is my first FOS kit, I considered starting with something smaller to get the feel for how Doug orchestrates things in his instructions. I have Rankin's steak house, which will probably be my next build after this and will be located next to the Terminal complex. But as everyone can see, I decided to wade in all at once with the big kit. No regrets. But I do agree with others: anyone new to craftsman kits would be better off honing skills on smaller kits first.
With that, below are some progress pictures of the various roofs going on. I painted two sheets of rolled roofing paper (printed 8 1/2 x 11 sheets) with Rustoleum spray can primer--one gray and one red. Let it thoroughly dry overnight, then cut the strips out. The big tip here, which seems obvious in hindsight but maybe not so much up front, is to paint the unprinted "back" of the roofing sheet. Then, once dry, turn the sheet over to the unpainted printed side and cut the strips apart on the printed lines. I like how the primer gives the roofing paper, which is really just gray 20 pound bond paper, a nice crisp edge with a subtle gritty surface.
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Steps taken, but not shown: The narrow bit of roof in the middle of the cupola received red rolled roofing. I pre-painted the exposed underside of each main roof, as well as the edge, white to match the building main color. The large main roof was installed prior to adding the roofing paper. I varied from the instructions by roofing the entire expanse of roof before attaching the cupola. To adhere the roof strips Doug recommends transfer tape. I still don't have any (but plan to get some in the future). So at risk of eliciting possible gasps of horror, I went with two-sided plastic tape. It seems to have worked well.
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In the shot above, I added a ceiling to the alcove from scrap wood. It is not mentioned in the instructions but I felt it was needed, and perhaps expected that you will do this. I also installed a ceiling lamp reflector from my spare castings. Below is the last, mostly unfinished side. The front half of this will connect to the bus terminal, and the rear half will be covered in billboard sized ads. Although the light does not show it well, I primed it in a gray-brown to represent a concrete wall. The window and door castings will be installed after the signs are glued on.
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On to the rest of the roofs today. I was worried that my minor modification of the long squad wall would cause problems with the two lower roofs. I test fitted those two roofs and was gratified to see that they will fit as intended with very minor modifications. I'll cover that later along with roof weathering.
--George
Really neat looking build George.
Thanks much, Curt.
I have the shoe factory pretty much "under roof" now. Below shows some added bracing for the two large lower roofs. I needed a little extra width on the triangular roof, so the bracing adds that and also serves to strengthen it. The larger roof will have two sub-structures sitting on top, so I wanted some extra bracing for support.
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Below is where I am at with the entire structure under roof. I have also begun weathering the roofs with white dry-brushing for highlights, chalks and alcohol to blend it all in. There are several sub-structures to build and attach, a loading dock, and some small loft roofs to build, before getting into the finer detailing. This is my first attempt at using the non-metal corrugated roofing. It takes color very nicely with no worries of the shiny metal showing through. It also cuts pretty cleanly with an X-acto blade. I do need more practice simulating dark rust and corrosion via Doug's burnt umber oil paint and mineral spirits technique. But I am satisfied with it, and it looks better under layout lighting as opposed to below at the workbench.
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--George
Great modeling. I really like the cupola.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 20, 2019, 02:39:27 PM
Great modeling. I really like the cupola.
Curt, me too. It will have a wire rod and a bead added to the top to extend the height, but because of all the handling I still need to do, those will go on about dead last with the lamp reflectors.
Snow day today, so I had a lot of workbench time. But this will about wrap it up for today's work.
I hit a minor bump with the rooftop shed. It wraps around the elevator tower in an "L" and one side wall is to be cut short where it buts up against the tower. The pilot model shows small windows on adjacent walls. However the actual wall piece, which is all three walls in one, has windows cut into opposite walls. This means the needed cut will fall in the center of the window. I can't simply "swap" walls because the wall piece is precut to allow for the slope of the roof. The picture below shows the misfit.
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My solution was to cut the windowed wall as intended, making the cut vertically through the window opening, glue solid cardstock directly over the miscut wall, then repaint with ultra flat black. Below is the refit shed and roof just sitting in place to check fit. I will install the battens on the walls before glueing in place. Also, I noticed the tolerances for the pre-cut roof card leave no room for error, so I will probably install the roof card on the shed first, then install the completed shed against the elevator tower. If any gaps occur, I can cover them with the rolled roofing material last.
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That's it for today. I am also considering cutting a doorway into the shed's "blind" wall, to give easier roof access to the maintenance man.
--Opa George
Really looks good George
Doug
Nice recovery. I must say I like your modification in the lower photo over the original orientation in the top photo. It makes more sense for an addition.
Opa George great job on the walls and signage. Bandit's Roost is a great present too.
Mike :)
Wonderful job all the way around! I'm really enjoying your build. :D
Thanks for the support, Doug, Bob D. Bob B. and Mike. I surely appreciate it.
The tarpaper rooftop shed turned out well. I installed a door, added the battens and glued it in place, then installed the roof and roofing material.
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Although the instructions mentioned red rolled roofing overall, I noticed on the pilot model that the rooftop shed had a very light, almost dirty white, color. With the shed's black walls, I decided to try to reproduce that for the nice contrast. I had a Rustoleum rattle can of "Ivory Silk" that seemed about right, so I repainted two of the roofing strips previously painted dark gray. I kept the can further away and got a somewhat uneven coat, which was what I wanted. Applied to the roof, it presents a subtle variance in color. I finished with the standard A & I wash and gray and brown pastel chalk dust.
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Back to the front of the building and next up is the small peaked roof over the upper loft door. This turned out to be much more detailed and "fussy" work than I thought it would be, but it all went together well by taking my time. Below is the first part of the actual roof, less the pulley mechanism and bracing.
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The pulley was assembled from six laser-cut parts. I spray-painted it flat black, then dry-brushed with white for the highlights. Finally I dusted with rust colored chalk after gluing it to the support beam. I glued the roof and support beam onto the main wall and adjusted it by eyeballing it to sit level. Once I was happy with it, I added the angled brace supports. Below is the front wall with that roof as well as the beam and pulley mechanism (no roof) at the lower right.
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At this point, per the instructions, the building is essentially finished with the addition of the metal details. Well, yes and no. There are a multitude of fine details pictured on the pilot model that I can add. And of course there is the final weathering. With the help of the extra photos from the FOS website, I plan to make sure they are all included (and then some). Heck, that's the most fun part of the build.
Stay tuned...Opa George
Wow, George -- that looks fantastic!
Very nicely done on the modification. The entire build looks outstanding.
Really enjoying your build. Love that little roof over the pulley. I also download the pix off of Doug's site and have them open on my iPad for reference. Lookin' good! Will you be able to hit Peabody in June? Cheers!
Quote from: Dave K. on February 23, 2019, 09:14:06 PM
Really enjoying your build. Love that little roof over the pulley. I also download the pix off of Doug's site and have them open on my iPad for reference. Lookin' good! Will you be able to hit Peabody in June? Cheers!
Thanks, Dave! I am finding the website pictures to be an invaluable part of the instructions.
I would love to visit Peabody and meet everyone in person but I'll be tied down at work this year. Maybe another year.
--George
You bet...keep buildin'!
Thanks, also, Vince and Curt!
--George
George,
Absolutely wonderful modeling. This one is nothing less than a walk off home run!
George,
Coming along nicely.....
Loren...
Thanks much, Jerry and Loren.
Here are two quick progress pictures. I've added the loading dock and roof, some detail castings and some additional trim. Still lots to do on this one, though.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-240219193648.jpeg&hash=ff323b3790a405a0c01d2a9f3a6fd55711d20d7f)
Below, another angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-240219193606.jpeg&hash=c3acd4d819ff2ba940f78ec4127fae5047a0d585)
Later I'll try to get a closeup of the loading dock. I tried one of Brett Gallant's techniques: coloring stripwood with pastel chalks, and really liked the result. It gave a very realistic look to the loading dock deck.
--George
Awesome build George , weathering is perfect, and love the signs.
Nice job George
Looks awesome George.
Quote from: Janbouli on February 24, 2019, 07:59:05 PM
Awesome build George , weathering is perfect, and love the signs.
[/quote
Thanks much, Jan. I keep forgetting to add the flag to the front wall. Maybe this evening when I get home from work. The "Satin Powder" sign above the loading dock still looks too new for its age. I need to weather and fade that one.
--George
George,
Very well done, looks wonderful - colors, weathering and all.
Tom ;D
Really nice work! Great colors and weathering. Keep those progress pics coming.
yep, superb!
Great looking build, George.
The front is particularly catching. I especially like the change of material to vertical siding on the gable. A clever technique to remember when scratch-building, too, as I often find myself splicing clapboard anyway.
Cheers, Mark.
awesome work George! the roofing, wall weathering, ect, ect!
Thanks for all the nice comments, Tom, Mark, Vince, Mark and Bob. Mark D, I agree on the variety in siding--it presents a pleasing contrast. It is a well-planned kit.
I got a lot of detail work done this evening, and it is far enough along to call it done, even though I will continue to tinker with the weathering and other small details. I still need to add black/dark gray chalk to the chimney, and some very light brown/rust streaking along the nail lines, below windows, etc. Also will add a light Hunterline "driftwood" wash along the foundation.
Below are pics.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-260219200943.jpeg&hash=acae244babdbcdd5d0613d0049b345c023f50568)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-260219201023.jpeg&hash=7cfa5217ea16a91e5286c1de669d65d980e61101)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-260219201105.jpeg&hash=3994414a66858eb205b03743f8e16fb7e5918cae)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-260219201146.jpeg&hash=75150c094a728b94c86f5083143fa1be074db288)
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Some notes: I added an accumulation of windblown leaves to the roof nooks, where it tends to build up along with debris (boards, old ladder, junk). The American flag supplied in the kit for the front was a 50-star version and I wanted a 48-star flag, so had to find an image to print. Finally got that done and installed.
Next up in the kit is the Trolley Stop Restaurant, and the small automotive repair that is sandwiched between the restaurant and the shoe factory. I hope to get a start on those two parts of the kit by the weekend.
--George
What a fantastic build!! I don't think I've ever seen that leaf accumulation - except on EVERY 1:1 building. Nice work. Doug would be pleased (very high compliment).
John
Thank you very much for that high compliment, John.
I actually got the idea from two places. First was years ago from some Dave Frary how-to photos. But the second was from some of the close-ups of this kit on the Fos Scale Facebook page. I could not tell what it was in the corners, but it looked like leaf debris to me. It also could have been an excess of corrosion and rust from the corrugated roofing panels, but I liked the idea of leaves.
The material I used was from a bag of dried floral moss from the craft store. I like the moss for weeds, but at the bottom of the bag was several tablespoons of "moss dust" for lack of a better description. I brushed on thin white glue and applied liberally.
--George
I agree. The leaf debris is a brilliant touch.
And I'm stealing it. ;D
Matt
Great finish George. Awesome job on the leaves. I also really like the tall smoke stack.
Wonderful build George.....neat details. 8)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2019, 08:53:36 AM
Great finish George. Awesome job on the leaves. I also really like the tall smoke stack.
Curt, isn't that a great smokestack? It came with the kit. I looked it up. It appears to be a Tichy kit: #8293 STRAIGHT VENT KIT.
Except that instead of building two twelve-foot stacks as Tichy intended, the pilot model shows them combined into one tall, twenty-four foot stack with supporting guide wires.
--George
Quote from: restocarp on February 27, 2019, 07:50:47 AM
I agree. The leaf debris is a brilliant touch.
And I'm stealing it. ;D
Matt
Thanks, Matt! It kind of turned out better than I thought. Steal away!
--George
Again, George, Fantastic. I love junk on a roof - Brett Gallant would also be happy.
I am also going to steal the leaf idea. Luke Towan of Youtube fame uses them a lot in his landscaping. He puts dried leaves into a food processor to chop them up. I bet that might look pretty good.
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 28, 2019, 09:00:28 AM
Wonderful build George.....neat details. 8)
Gregory, thanks! The detail that Doug included with the kit that, I think, goes the extra mile is the fire alarm/call box/ fire main connections on the front of the building. They catch the eye, being infrequently modeled, and the red color adds a subtle but effective touch of interest.
--George
That came out really sweet. Leaves? Hmmm . . . . . great idea for those dead air areas on multi-tiered roof structures.
I look at the building and think it would make a great feed mill.
I'm told slicing open a tea bag provides good leafage, as well. If, like me, you'll use any old excuse to spend hobby dollars, Scenic Express sells leaf material, as well. Great modeling, George. Can't wait for the next structure.👍🏻
Wonderful build Opa George! I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with the remaining structures in this kit. ;)
George
Great build. Love all the detail - leaves on the roof looks very natural. Can I add that detail to my list?
George overall a great build!
Jerry
Quote from: Dave K. on March 01, 2019, 06:27:26 AM
I'm told slicing open a tea bag provides good leakage, as well. If, like me, you'll use any old excuse to spend hobby dollars, Scenic Express sells leaf material, as well. Great modeling, George. Can't wait for the next structure.👍🏻
Thanks for the comments, Dave. Also, Todd Wiley at HO Scale Customs did a beautiful build of Cameron Street Apartments by KC Workshops. But the feature that knocked me out was a climbing vine using Noch scale leaves. I can barely believe how real it looks. I plan to get some and try them out on this kit somewhere--probably on the fish market and the stables.
--George
Great job George! The leaves on the roof really look excellent. Great little detail. I'll be stealing that one.
-Steve
Thanks to everyone for so many supportive comments on the shoe factory. I am really happy with how it turned out and eager to continue with more structures in the kit.
I hit a minor snag on starting the Trolley Stop Restaurant and the Auto repair, and have emailed Doug with my problem. So I will probably change direction and start the Bus Terminal building next, which butts up against the shoe factory.
--George
Your leaf accumulation make me cringe!!!
A while back I bought a house that had a cedar shake roof and a bunch of leaf buildup in the corner of eaves and dormers from all the maple trees in the yard. Didn't think much about it until we cleaned them out and saw all the rot!! Your work makes me want to get a tiny rake in there to fix things up!!
Definitely going to be stealing that little detail for future builds.
The finished structure looks superb, George!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Rail and Tie on March 01, 2019, 01:04:51 PM
Your leaf accumulation make me cringe!!!
A while back I bought a house that had a cedar shake roof and a bunch of leaf buildup in the corner of eaves and dormers from all the maple trees in the yard. Didn't think much about it until we cleaned them out and saw all the rot!! Your work makes me want to get a tiny rake in there to fix things up!!
Definitely going to be stealing that little detail for future builds.
Darryl, I had a similar experience when cleaning up my folks' property for an estate sale. They had a really old spring house with old tab shingles and many years accumulation of sumac and other leaves. I climbed up to rake it off and almost went through.
--George
Quote from: mark dalrymple on March 01, 2019, 01:53:24 PM
The finished structure looks superb, George!
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark!
I'm going to vary from the instructions and begin assembly of the bus terminal structure, which is really the main event in this kit. Most of the walls are the white task board material. I sorted out all of the needed walls and a few of the other larger laser cut pieces. As with the shoe factory, I marked the wall number lightly on each piece to minimize going back and forth between the instructions and the parts diagrams.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-030319125351.jpeg&hash=f44fb4390c5996bfc94c95511ef92447b43c938d)
Be careful with the task board parts. I bent the main front wall slightly, and bends in task board are actually structural breaks. But I think it will be ok with some extra bracing.
All for now.
--George
Do the fiberboard walls get a plaster coating?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 03, 2019, 01:25:33 PM
Do the fiberboard walls get a plaster coating?
Curt, only the art deco walls, lower left, get a stucco treatment. Everything else is either painted or covered up.
--George
Here are the scribed wood walls after distressing and an initial coat of A & I wash. The small walls are two rooftop sheds.
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And here are two of the bus terminal walls and the ceiling, all spray painted with khaki to simulate concrete. The ceiling is the one with the multiple holes for the island supports. The other two, once dry, will get a black and white safety chevron painting using painter's tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-040319174235.jpeg&hash=c1198621a275d9dbd2e8982e7d16c1421958f02c)
--George
The bus terminal walls that face the inside of the boarding area need finishing. I had painted the task board with khaki camouflage, and then masked off all but one-half inch at the bottom for a white background. Once that had dried, I applied painters tape, marked diagonal stripes and cut out alternate stripes for an application of black.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-050319194817.jpeg&hash=59babbaead56ab56c7b9bc0c2cce08b67cf4a73d)
I also sponge painted the bus terminal clapboard front wall in artist acrylic yellow ochre, and the roof top shed walls in titanium white. That went well, but when I removed the tape from the taskboard walls, it took off much of the original layer of khaki and the white. This necessitated a repaint of those areas, giving me an uneven look. As these walls still need rather heavy weathering, I think I can make it work.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-050319194917.jpeg&hash=8c0fd56e1fd14ea7a24a21764c08c5f75cf09bda)
The most glaring spot is at the upper left corner of the wall with the door. I'm hoping when dry it will be less prominent, but if not, it is going to be reworked into a water stain! Note, too, that the diagonal stripes are on facing walls. Currently they appear to be running opposite to each other, but when assembled will have a consistent angle.
--George
PS--Please excuse the oversize pics. Ever since my last computer update, my usual photo editing software was been misbehaving. I'm going to "have a little talk" with it tonight. --gn
Very interesting George. I look forward to seeing it go together.
Looking great George , and the photo's are an excellent size , no need to alter.
Hey George:
Looks just great so far. Keep the pic flowing.
Karl
Thank you, Curt, Jan and Karl.
I spent this evening working on the task board concrete terminal walls. I noticed that the more paint applied to taskboard, the more prominent the fiber. I suppose it soaks up the paint and swells the fibers. Before any additional work, I carefully and lightly sanded the surfaces of the two walls and the ceiling, and this successfully smoothed the surface out.
Then I carved in quite a few cracks with a #11 blade, enhanced them with A & I to get a "seeping water" effect. I wanted the cracks in the walls and ceiling to look as if they were perpetually damp with water leaking through. I then played around with very thin washes of dark gray, dark brown and finally white. I finished off the ceiling with black chalk powder for soot, and a light brown chalk, for rust, between the bus lanes, which is where the iron supports will be installed. Finally, I sanded the safety striping more, to tone it down and make it look chipped and worn. Here is where we're at with the bus terminal walls and ceiling. I ran out of time or would have started on the signage.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-060319195340.jpeg&hash=869b9fda3a6b23ff1cdbbe72eb2b700ce28b7fc2)
--George
Very nice work!
John
Looking good George , yes taskboard swells up , in N-scale sometimes so much that tab and slot don't fit anymore , I'm not a fan of taskboard it also breaks easily .
Looking really good, George. Would lightly priming the taskboard with rattle-can primer help seal it? Love the leaching concrete.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
George,
Very nice! I like the amount of thought you put into your modeling, as well as the skill you display.
Quote from: Dave K. on March 07, 2019, 06:23:26 AM
Looking really good, George. Would lightly priming the taskboard with rattle-can primer help seal it? Love the leaching concrete.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, Dave. Regarding the taskboard, I did use two coats of gray primer first. It was the second coat of primer that really lifted the fibers. I should have stopped at one coat. On the positive, though, it did sand relatively smooth. On the closeups of Doug's pilot model, you can detect the fiber on the walls, so I don't feel inadequate! ;)
--George
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 07, 2019, 09:04:22 AM
George,
Very nice! I like the amount of thought you put into your modeling, as well as the skill you display.
Thank you very much, Jerry. I feel honored to be putting up well regarded work in the company of such fine modelers. This is a truly inspirational forum.
--George
George
I learn a lot from your detailed posts, thank you. You do a great job. By the way I bought this kit when it came out and put it in the set aside area until till I am ready. Your build will definitely be bookmarked for use when I get to build it.
Jim D
Jim, I am very glad these are helpful. As a matter of fact, here is a tip that is not in the instructions. I discovered it by studying one of Doug's close up shots of the underside of the terminal building. The instructions note to build the doors to the waiting room from two parts on the laser-cut small parts sheet. On the carrier sheet, just below the two-part door pieces is a third, very tiny, part. Turns out this is the door crossbar handles. You can see it in the shot below.
I painted the waiting room doors aluminum and added wall signs. This is not the greatest shot--signs have a little reflectiveness that makes it difficult to read their details.
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Have a great day, everyone.--George
Looks great, George. Weathering is perfect.
Quote from: Opa George on March 08, 2019, 05:31:58 AM
Jim, I am very glad these are helpful. As a matter of fact, here is a tip that is not in the instructions. I discovered it by studying one of Doug's close up shots of the underside of the terminal building. The instructions note to build the doors to the waiting room from two parts on the laser-cut small parts sheet. On the carrier sheet, just below the two-part door pieces is a third, very tiny, part. Turns out this is the door crossbar handles. You can see it in the shot below.
I painted the waiting room doors aluminum and added wall signs. This is not the greatest shot--signs have a little reflectiveness that makes it difficult to read their details.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-080319052459.jpeg&hash=9e2e8159628b50af53eca8c48d3a0d42ed87f648)
Have a great day, everyone.--George
That's okay...the details would be tough at scale distance, anyway. Love your wall treatment, George. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Those walls look terrific! :D
George
This is looking great! I like your idea of sanding after the painting to get rid of the fibers that were popping - the walls really turned out nice.
The walls look great and the coloring on the door looks real.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 08, 2019, 08:29:10 AM
The walls look great and the coloring on the door looks real.
Thanks for the comments, Dave, Bob and John--much appreciated. Curt--the paint is Rustoleum metallic aluminum, in a spray can. I like it for wall and rooftop vents and such, too. --George
So we lost our internet, phones and tv for four days when the big wall box failed. But a tech arrived today to put a new box on the wall and all is well, now. Except that I have some catching up to do.
Continuing with the bus terminal, time to carefully brace the task board walls into a frame. No bracing diagram was suggested but a little common sense and test fitting the tab and slot corners allowed me to figure it out. I used quarter-inch and eighth-inch square bracing strips as appropriate. Below several shots from different angles.
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(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-120319193445.jpeg&hash=dd5f783ca3d569e46ce3e83d8e192e8fff2a06e1)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-120319193518.jpeg&hash=e882b6272c8383378e100f2460ec835193416d8d)
And the ceiling. I added more bracing here than anywhere. Knowing I would later be fitting multiple support columns into this sheet, I wanted plenty of strength to avoid accidentally cracking the fragile material once that step came up.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-120319193601.jpeg&hash=980670499838648afea0f01bf89701bbec9ba923)
And here is the completed inner frame.
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Next up was the art deco bus terminal entrance. Below the basic form:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-120319193734.jpeg&hash=49ca01f045535e70983e98770e1b73c227282970)
Now a step and technique new to me, the use of the water putty to simulate stucco. I have an entire can of the stuff, so I did not need to conserve the small amount supplied in the kit. I tried two different consistencies on a piece of the scrap wooden carrier sheet the held the art deco entrance forms. One I allowed to dry with no manipulation, and onto the other wet putty I sprinkled on a light coating of dry mix, like powdered sugar, and let it set. The next day, after thoroughly drying, the sprinkle-on surface showed the best results, so below is the entrance form using that technique.
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However, after the entrance form thoroughly dried, I noticed some thick areas, as well as areas that had slopped over onto areas that would need to be clear. In filing and cleaning it up, I knocked several pieces loose. That made me realize my application was too thin, so I redid it with a thicker consistency--thick enough to stipple with a stiff brush.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-120319193858.jpeg&hash=492d71700d5bd0c9e31d39ee1db03bc5b387dd0e)
As that is currently drying, I'll let you know tomorrow how it turned out. This is clearly a technique that takes practice.
--George
Making good progress George.
Four days of down time. Wow. Nice customer service. I would be goin nuts.
Glad you're back with the living :D
Thanks Curt and Vince! Yes, glad to be back.
The third try with the Durhams Water Putty stucco was the charm. I painted the resulting Art Deco Terminal Entrance white, built the doors, window and the details, and assembled per the instructions. One of my own touches was to add an art deco floral motif to the glass behind the decorative window. That was a simple reverse drawing on the acetate with fine line markers.
Below are some quick pics. This was all just careful, take-your-time and refer a thousand times to the drawings and photographs process. In the last photo, I am just holding the various facades against the task-board frame. Nothing is yet glued in place. I wanted to get a feel for how it was shaping up.
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(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-130319200607.jpeg&hash=1ae445f9ead6af86eddaf3f586f8ddaf8dede095)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-130319200643.jpeg&hash=a072554df28c228a93cce0ac5b8436bb609b2bdc)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-130319200721.jpeg&hash=6fbc96765fddb48bf86299a6e0dc24cd8d08ce9e)
--George
Great stucco and "stained window".
Outstanding George, and the stained window is a unique touch which you executed fantastically.
Well done
--Paul
Wow...great job on the stucco and the unique window. Really nice!
John
Sign came out great.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I find the water putty method way too messy for my taste. One of my go-tos is Rust-Oleum Multicolor Textured rattle-can. It, too, has its quirks and practice is useful.
Wonderful Art Deco touch with that mural.
--Rich
Love your mural. Looks awesome.
Hey George:
Great job on the stucco and the window is pretty cool to.
Karl
Thank you to everyone for all of the supportive comments. Dave, I have been thinking about trying one or two of those textured spray paints and will look for that one. I may haunt the craft supply store with a 50% coupon, as they appear to be about $9 per can.
I was in a hurry to post some pictures, so thought I should add a few notes, since this is intended to also help others who build this kit.
1.If you think of the wood former for the art deco entrance as the letter "H," don't stucco over the middle crossbar of the H. That is where the decorative leaf motif plaque goes. I must have looked at pilot model pictures a hundred times, and for some reason that really obvious point escaped me.
2. The instructions note to keep the stucco clear of points where the windows and doors will be installed. I found it was not necessary to worry a lot about that, as long as you don't create globs that block the openings. The windows and doors install from the back, and it is relatively easy to scrape away any interfering water putty.
3. Alternatively, it is worth your while to really study the pictures and the diagrams to determine what parts of the "BUS" sign need stucco, and what parts need to stay clear. I did slop a bit into the area where the sign tiles go, but made sure to clear it out 100% down to bare wood before trying to glue on the sign panels.
4. I spray painted the sign tiles (there are 9 panels in all) to get a nice smooth finish. Color: Rustoleum satin French Blue.
5. The panels glue directly to the wood sign former in the pre-shaped area to form three, three-sided boxes. Despite the pre-shaped form, it pays off to spend the extra time to get each panel into exactly the right position so that it lines up with the other two panels, and is also spaced equally with the other boxes. I used wood glue and played around with all the tiles, pushing and prodding them into position with a toothpick for several minutes until I was satisfied. Even after that, I can see some inconsistencies in the really close-up picture, but at typical viewing distance they look good.
6. Same procedure for the laser-cut letters (BUS). I spray painted flat white, then carefully spaced them on each box. Center them horizontally, vertically and aligned with their companions.
Time to work on the clapboard façade and the decorative pilasters.
George
George,
I haven't check in for some time but WOW, what a great build.
A very big think you for finding all the bugs in this one for us. I can't wait to build mine but it is at least a year off. This thread will be my history book for the build.
Fantastic job sir.
Tom ;D
Thanks, Tom. I'm really enjoying building this kit and am happy to return the favor to the forum that has given me so many tips and great build threads.
Here are the pilaster parts laid out. I prepainted all added parts with Rustoleum Eden Green spray paint. Note that the four square-ish panels, identified in the instructions under the same part number, are actually two different sizes. The shorter pieces make the base of the pilaster, while the larger parts go on top. I laid them out in appropriate positions, below.
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Below are all of the assemblies that make up the front façade of the terminal building. None are glued in place. You can see the assembled pilasters. I used craft store acrylic "foliage green" for the trim and to finish coloring the pilasters. The clapboard facade needs signs, weathering and windows, and the art deco entrance needs to be weathered. But so far:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelersforum.com%2Fgallery%2F779-140319201838.jpeg&hash=17f3f235005e135c1e168c479f7e14f9e58e9678)
George
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻Lookin' good!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Wonderful job! This is going to be a very interesting structure when you're finished with it!
George
I just got caught up on your progress - great work! The stucco and window are fantastic.
Great job on this one George
Doug
George that's some outstanding work!
The entrance sign and stucco top notch!
Jerry
Hey George:
Really looking great. Love the colors you used.
Karl
Your doing a great job on this kit so far, love the way you did the window on the bus station entrance...
Thanks for the supportive comments, Dave, Bob, John, Doug, Jerry, Karl and Raymo!
Soon time to work with the big bus terminal signs. Doug provided a variety of possible signs and configurations for the bus terminal façade, but since I fell in love with the look of the original, I will be following it pretty closely. The provided signs are printed on standard weight white paper, and I wanted a heavier backing so that, once applied, they wouldn't conform at all to the clapboard siding underneath and ruin the illusion of large commercial signs mounted on wood or metal. To get that extra thickness, I glued them to some colored cardstock, probably about 65 lb weight, and then placed them under a book to dry flat. Also in the shot below, the clapboard façade with windows, glazing and printed venetian blinds.
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The rear "alley" side of the structure is probably the easiest wall treatment you will ever have. The entire top of the wall is covered with a double billboard, all cut from the sign sheet in one piece. As the wall surface is flat task board, I did not bother providing an additional backing to the large billboard signs. The instructions say to paint the lower part of the wall flat black and glue on battens to simulate a tar paper wall. I chose to cut out a matching piece of black colored cardstock and glue over the surface. In the shot below, I have not yet cut out the opening for the service door.
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--George
Great vintage signs!👍🏻
Great signage and I really like the trim color with the wall color.
Quote from: Dave K. on March 16, 2019, 03:35:41 PM
Great vintage signs!👍🏻
Yea, Dave. Aren't they great? I went with the signs supplied in the kit, but for the additional signage that lines the rest of the alley, I will probably dip into my personal collection.
--George
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 16, 2019, 05:08:25 PM
Great signage and I really like the trim color with the wall color.
Thanks, Curt. The yellow (I used yellow ochre) approximates the pilot model, but I went with a lighter/softer green for the trim.
--George
The resulting signs have a thickness/stiffness about the same as a business card. I like to color the edge by running a wide edge brown sharpie along the edge. I use a water-base marker for this as it bleeds into the surface less than an alcohol marker. However if you want a little bleeding in, to approximate rust, just hold the marker on a spot slightly longer and allow it to wick in slightly. Not too long, as it will continue to wick in for a second or two.
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Here is the clapboard façade with the large signs installed (there are a few additional small signs to come). I placed the bay signs a little lower, right on top of the bottom trim rather than above it.
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George
You're really doing a great job on this FOS kit George! Thanks for all of the pictures & tips on how you achieve these fantastic results.
Ditto...looking good!
Thanks, Dave!
Ok, here are some progress pics. I'm knocking off for the day. I worked the back "alley" wall first so that I could lay the structure shell flat on its front. I added the door, more signs, rusty metal corner guards (1/16" L channel, spray painted with red primer), and some more trim around the billboards. I did not trim up the top of the billboards before I check the fit with the roof. Below are two pictures of the back side of the bus terminal.
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In adding bay numbers to the rear, remember to reverse the order so they match the front.
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Then added the façade pieces to the front. Per the instructions, I was to glue the pilasters to the clapboard façade first, then apply the entire assembly to the taskboard shell. I did not do it that way. Instead I glued the clapboard façade in place first and made sure it was square with the stucco entrance, as well as even with the concrete ceiling. But when I applied the pilasters, I found they were a fraction short and (if glued flush to the clapboard) do not quite reach the ground. If doing it again, I would follow the instructions for that step. This would let the clapboard façade mount just a fraction lower than the ceiling, and would allow for an extra bit of trim to extend under and hide the joint. I don't think this will be a problem, though. I'll just cut small bits to put under the bottom of the pilasters so they sit solidly on the ground.
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Here is a top-down shot, showing how all of the parts fit together.
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And a shot with the roof just lying on top--no attempt at installing it yet. Just wanted an idea of how it would look.
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It is shaping up well, but this structure is barely half done. There are the islands and supports to add, roof and sheds, the big sign, lots of details and of course I have not done any real weathering yet.
--George
Man, This sure looks awesome. Very nice job Opa George!
;D ;D :o
Magnifique, love it.
How do you type the sound of a whistle? Very nice modeling, George.
I had time tonight to take my time catching up on your kit build George. I love the results but even more, the time you take to detail how you accomplish the results and warn of the potential land mines. I learn A LOT from one of your builds. Better yet I have this kit (think I said that before) and like Tom said, this is the reference book for me when I build it.
Thanks
Jim D
That is some really nice modeling George.
Mille mercis, Jan, and thank you very much, Bruce, Dave, Jim and Curt. So far so good on this build!
--George
The concrete islands that separate the bus lanes are next up. These are taskboard bases with square holes for the columns. The columns themselves are cut from 1/8 inch square wood strips, and they fit into holes in the ceiling, so it is all really just cut-and-fit. Getting all of the parts prepared, assembled, painted and weathered is where the time comes in.
Because the columns fit into the pre-cut ceiling holes, and because they may pass all the way through the holes as needed, it is not critical that they be an exact fit. I measured and cut mine slightly long, sanded out any roughness, and spray painted them with flat white. I did not distress them, as I want them to represent painted concrete columns.
While they dried, I laid out the parts to make up the eight iron girders that attach between the columns to the ceiling. Each girder has three parts, so 24 pieces. Also prepared are the paper safety stripe "wrappers" that will be applied to the base of the columns where they attach to the island.
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I used cyanoacrylate to assemble the girders. The top and bottom strips attach perpendicular to the larger girder piece, so that once assembled, if viewed from the end, will be in the shape of the letter "I." Sand the edges of the larger girder pieces to remove any trace of the separation tab, as it will interfere with a good bond. As this is a rather fussy operation, I assembled only one side of each girder first and allowed it to dry before adding the second side. Below are all 8 girder assemblies.
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At the moment, everything is drying and curing. Tomorrow I will paint the girders red primer, for rust, and will start wrapping the safety stripe around each of the columns. I won't actually assemble the islands until I am satisfied the paper safety stripe wrappers are fully attached, flush to the surface, and dry.
--George
Everything dried quite nicely overnight. Today I began wrapping the safety stripes around the bottom of the posts. First I measured and marked off from each post the length that would seat into the island. The safety stripe wrappers were then attached, just one side, all at once to make sure I had them all matching in direction.
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Assembling the islands and posts required a bit of uncharacteristic haste. I used wood glue for a strong bond, but also knowing it set quicker than white glue. I glued all ten posts into the islands first, then turned the shell on it's side to work. Fortunately, both sides that seat against adjoining structures are just blank taskboard, so at least I wouldn't mess up any details on a finished wall. It actually assembled quite easily. Below is a top-down shot with all ten posts seated properly.
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I then adjusted the islands to make sure they were straight, level, and flush to the ground in relation to the rest of the structure, and let it dry. While drying, I began working on some of the rooftop structures, adding bracing to the shed walls and assembling the skylight. Sorry for the blurriness of the pic below.
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The skylight consists of two pieces (less glazing). All four sides are one laser cut piece with score marks to bend into the rectangular shape. I used a corner cut from some scrap carrier sheet to help in gluing square. I'll be fogging the acetate so you won't be able to see the internal corner bracing.
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Finally I applied the painted girders between the posts. A few took a slight bit of filing for a good fit, but the engineering of the pieces is good, as they fit nicely. The picture below might be a bit disorienting. I set the structure on its side to catch better light into the underside assembly. You can also see the assembled skylight sitting on the bench.
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--George
Really nice modeling George. Just beautiful.
It keeps getting better and better.
Beautiful Job there...
Thanks much for the support, Curt, Bob and Dennis. -- George
Bookmarking your thread for when I get to building mine.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really looks good George
Doug
George,
This is absolutely fantastic. Can't get enough of this one.
Tom ;D
Hey Opa George:
This kit is looking just great so far. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Thank you, Dave, Doug, Tom and Karl!
Time to add the roof. Nothing very exciting here. In test fitting the roof, I found that it seemed to lay slightly low with regard to the stucco pillar. To remedy that, I added strips of 1/16 x 1/32 all along the tops of the walls to raise the roof about 1/32 inch. Another test fit and the roof now met the stucco pillar. By the way, the roof is notched out for the stucco wall, but in my build, it did not seem to need the notch since the stucco is mounted flush with the clapboard. Instead of bracing the actual cardboard roof, I added horizontal braces flush with the top of the side walls.
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Here the cardboard roof is glued in place.
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I had previously colored a sheet of roofing paper in light gray, and cut it along the guide lines into 3 scale-foot wide strips of rolled roofing. I proceeded to glue my rolled roofing to the cardboard roof using white glue, and here is where I ran into trouble. The extra moisture from the glue caused warping of the roof right along the hole for the skylight. In hindsight, I should have braced/framed the underside of the cardboard roof around that opening.
Problem number two. I forged ahead, hoping the warped edge would smooth out as it dried. I outlined the edges of the rolled roofing with a fine-point "charcoal" alcohol marker. When finished, I did not like the final result. I decided to apply a second layer of rolled roofing right over the first, and this time I did not use the marker. Better. I think with chalk weathering it will look ok.
No pics of that as I weighted it down to take out the warp and am hoping for the best when all is dry. We'll see tomorrow.
Worse case, I remove the roof and start over. I should have pics of the result tomorrow.
--George
Thanks for the tips along the way, George. Very helpful. I'm like you -- I don't care for the marker outline thing. Always looks a little fake to me even tho I see that sort of thing on roof tops when I take the commuter train downtown. Somehow it just doesn't look right on a model (to me).
Quote from: vinceg on March 20, 2019, 08:09:15 PM
Thanks for the tips along the way, George. Very helpful. I'm like you -- I don't care for the marker outline thing. Always looks a little fake to me even tho I see that sort of thing on roof tops when I take the commuter train downtown. Somehow it just doesn't look right on a model (to me).
I am happy to post my experiences with this one, Vince. Truth is, I am really enjoying this kit and can't wait to get back to it each evening. I checked it this morning and to my happy surprise, it dried perfectly flat and looked much better than I remembered when I last left it. Maybe just covering those lines helped. Maybe the craftsman kit fairy visited overnight! I'll post a pic after work.
--George
This morning, after weighting it and allowing it to dry, the roof looked much better. It will look even better after the weathering stage, but I'm holding off on that step until I get the rest of the details on. One of my remedies was to brace the warped skylight opening from the top with stained strip wood (Hunterline Light Gray), to represent a base for the skylight. The skylight walls are very thin and would not hold a bead of glue well, so I added strip wood bracing to the inside bottom edge. I then glued it down with wood glue, set a heavy object on top, and let it set. Below is the resulting roof so far.
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While that dried I assembled the two rooftop sheds. The door and window for these are plastic castings. I colored the roof edges with "Charcoal" alcohol marker, and added two contrasting colors of rolled roofing.
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The black square on the roof of the larger shed is black construction paper, to represent a base plate for a chimney pipe. We're getting close to assembly of that really exciting feature: the large rooftop sign!
--George
Nice modeling George. Did the skylight come with the kit.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 21, 2019, 05:15:12 PM
Nice modeling George. Did the skylight come with the kit.
Thanks, Curt. Yes, it is included in the kit. -- George
I began building the rooftop sign using the standard trick (per the kit instructions) of taping wax paper over the full-scale template and building the support structure on the wax paper. It worked like a charm. A tiny dot of glue holds the uprights to the wax paper. All horizontal pieces were glued to the uprights next. Note that I lightly (quick dip in the bottle) pre-stained the scale and dimensional wood with Hunterline Driftwood and let it dry before cutting it.
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I used toothpicks to apply the wood glue. The actual laser-cut sign was painted--first a primer coat in white, then one line in red and one line in blue. I used rattle-can spray paint in quick bursts--allowing it to dry between colors. Because the sign is thin and flat, it was very easy to just lay a piece of newspaper as a mask over the part I didn't want to paint. Below, the letters are just lying over the wood structure to test fit.
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Note that the letters are, as you might suspect, very fragile. I handled and moved them only with tweezers or a toothpick. Here you need to make a decision whether to cut away the frets that join the letters and words, or to attach the entire piece to the wood structure as is. I chose to cut away most of the frets on the top "See America" and middle "By Bus" lines. Below, I am gluing the pieces in place. I decided to keep the frets on the bottom line "Coast to Coast" for two reasons. First, I found placing the individual "by bus" letters difficult to keep straight. Second, I rather liked the look of the frets on the bottom font. It gives it a streamlined quality in keeping with the art deco style.
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I let it dry and then removed it from the wax paper. The application of the letters added strength, and I found it easy to work with at this stage.
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I made a hole in the roof for the extra-long anchoring upright piece, and glued the front of the sign in place on the bus terminal. It is drying overnight before adding the supports to the back. I also added a few cast metal rooftop vents from the kit.
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It is shaping up nicely, now. More work tomorrow.
--George
wow, super nice work! This is coming out so nice. The sign coloring is spot on, ,,, the stucco came out nice, are you going to weather/ dirty up the stucco portion or leave it alone? Looks like you're going to have to get some buses!!
Just great!
Quote from: rpdylan on March 22, 2019, 09:36:47 PM
wow, super nice work! This is coming out so nice. The sign coloring is spot on, ,,, the stucco came out nice, are you going to weather/ dirty up the stucco portion or leave it alone? Looks like you're going to have to get some buses!!
Thanks, Bob! I do plan to weather the stucco--give it a grayish cast. Ditto on the roof and other exposed walls. I may keep the back alley part dirtier and go easy on the front for a nice public image. On buses--I was able to find two Jordan 21-passenger buses for a decent price.
--George
George that is a terrific looking sign.
George great job with the roof and skylight! The sign perfect!!
Jerry
Hey George:
Just beautifully done.
Karl
Thanks much Curt, Jerry and Karl.
Yesterday I finished the large rooftop sign by constructing and adding the rear supports. Three large and two small, each matching the sign uprights in height, and each built by following the template. All relatively easy. Test fit them before dabbing on glue--I got a better fit by trimming the 2x4 braces slightly.
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Below is the completed sign and supports from the back. Here is a construction note. I was so eager to work on and get the sign installed that I forgot to finish the rear of the clapboard façade. Had I not installed the sign first, I would have scribed the exposed surface to represent boards, distressed it somewhat, painted and then weathered. Instead, I settled for a wash of Hunterline driftwood (matching the wood on the sign). Adding a tar seal at the bottom of the wall using a toothpick and working through and between the sign uprights was challenging.
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Below are some shots of the front of the bus terminal structure, just about complete. I plan to add a few small details yet, but this part of the kit is pretty much finished. I went light on weathering the stucco, settling for a few swiped of burnt umber chalk. Heavier weathering on the clapboard.
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Here is the underside again with the bus bays and passenger islands. I thought it needed more lighting, so I added some (non operating) industrial lampshades on each of the girders. These castings--possibly Tichy but not sure anymore--had HO scale lightbulbs as separate pieces to be installed. That is about the smallest detail I would attempt at my skill level. But the end result is nice.
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Here is the bus terminal sitting next to the shoe mill (not glued/attached yet). It was at this point I began to realize just how large this completed kit will be. There are four more structures to build and add, plus horse paddocks! :)
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The additional detailing needed on this one includes drybrushing the details with rust, gun metal, white, etc as needed. Adding cast details, debris, etc. Next structures in the kit will be the tavern and the garage.
--George
This is quite an enjoyable ride, George...following along and cheering after each building. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Wow! Looks great..
I agree, great to tag along, learning a lot, looks amazing.
Jim D
Looking good George..... 8)
Thank you Dave, Raymo, Jim and Gregory!
I had a little time after coffee so here is a quick detail. I was planning a trip to the Railroad Museum of PA down in Strasburg and noticed in the website photos that the museum entrance is art deco. Of interest to me were the large entrance lights. I thought they would add that little bit of something extra, so started looking around for just the correct shape. Found it in a plastic star in my extra parts box.
I painted the star aluminum and cut out the pieces I wanted.
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Ta da! Art Deco entrance light fixtures. I also added some little people waiting for the next bus.
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George
Genius!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Beautiful modeling George.
Wow...Great modeling!
John
Stunning! Super job! ;D ;D
OMG! Wow, this is fantastic work. Nice Job!
:o :o :o
this is turning out very nice George!
You're really nailing the build of this kit George! Everything is coming out great. Super idea using the points of the star as lighting sconces!
Wow , to think of the star as pieces of lighting , just genius.
I appreciate all of the supportive comments, everyone. :)
Time today to start the tavern. The Trolley Tavern and the garage anchor one leg of the U-shaped kit. Or perhaps you could think of it as a triangle with one of the points open. The tavern and the garage will attached to the rear end of the shoe mill when complete.
If I had followed the instructions, this pair of buildings would have been assembled right after the mill. Unfortunately I found that two of the tavern walls were missing. It's been more than a month and two emails and I have yet to hear back from Doug, so I decided to make the missing walls from scrap and forge ahead.
After the typical distressing and a wash with A & I, I painted them in a yellow and green combination. This echoes the bus terminal colors, but in a soft yellow and a deep green, whereas the bus terminal was an ochre and light green. The two buildings are located on opposite sides of the final configuration, so I don't think it will look tedious. The acrylic colors I used were "Melted Butter" and "Hunter Green." Most of the paint application was via a sponge. I also used acrylic "Sand" to give the appearance of peeling paint, with a bit of white on the alley wall (although I believe that wall will be mostly covered with billboards ads).
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Below are the walls with bracing and most trim. The large yellow "alley" wall is one of those that was missing. I was able to deduce its dimensions from the die-cut roof and adjoining walls, as well as from careful study of the pilot model photos. In the photo below, I have not yet cut out the openings for a door and a single small window. I varied from the instructions by distressing and painting all of the walls and the frieze boards, and then assembling them, before bracing--reversing my usual process. This was in order to get an accurate length for all of the bracing and trim, which extends beyond the walls onto the frieze. Plastic windows are also in place.
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Because this building required odd angles at several corner joints, I began assembling the shell at the largest 90-degree angle. Note that I have installed the door and window in the rear wall at this point. The white wall replaces the second missing wall. As it will become the interior wall of the garage, I painted it white to match its facing interior wall (on the mill).
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Here is another spot I varied slightly from the instructions. I was worried that I did not have the correct angle at the tower end, in particular since my substitute wall involved a bit of guess work. So instead of first installing the first floor tavern window wall, and then installing the clapboard/tower assembly above it, I decided to attach the window wall to the clapboard wall first and let it dry. Below, the tower/clapboard assembly is drying upside down. You can also see where I shaved away a good portion of the vertical brace on the right end of the alley wall, to accommodate the angle. Test fitting before gluing is essential on this structure.
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The resulting fit was good. Below, the front of the building shell.
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And the back (alley side). I will be adding a green frieze board to the top of the white wall.
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And the interior, showing the angles of corners. Also note, although not specified in the written instructions, careful placement of the horizontal bracing at the rear of the peaked clapboard. This will support the roof at the front.
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The tavern and garage, as well as the shoe mill, all sit on sidewalk slabs included in the kit. While these were drying, I spray painted the taskboard sidewalk segments. I'll show them in a future post.
--George
Looks good George.
Thanks very much, Curt!
Here is the Trolley Barn Tavern with the cardstock roof in place, rolled roofing applied but not yet trimmed, and the tower roof in progress. At this point, the structure went together quickly and without any unusual notes. I also applied the large retro bus poster to the alley wall.
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After the roof was down and shingles applied to the tower, it was all detailing from that point. The restaurant is pretty much finished. Next up will be the garage, which is really only front and back walls and a roof. It has no sides to build as it shares walls with the mill and the restaurant. Below, the front of the restaurant. I think the lighting is really emphasizing the weathering here. It doesn't look that beaten up in person. It is also slightly out of focus. I'll post more pics later.
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Here is the alley side. I added rain gutter and downspout--those are not included in the kit.
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And a shot of the roof detail. The structure is not yet affixed to the sidewalk. You can also easily see the spot on the sidewalk piece that is reserved for the garage. I'm waiting for all structures on this leg of the diorama to be finished before attaching everything to sidewalks. I'll have separate notes on adding the sidewalks included with the kit. I have a few modifications to make on that point, but I'll save that for later.
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--George
Hey George:
The tavern looks just great.
Karl
Beautiful modeling George. I really like the part that sticks out in front.
Thank you, Karl, and thank you Curt. The tower on the restaurant is a nice touch with this structure, and I the angle makes it look really cool.
Here are all of the main structural parts for the garage, with the exception that I have already attached the pilasters to the sides of the façade. It will use the adjoining walls from the restaurant and the mill for side walls. Like the bus terminal entrance, this is also art deco, but more low style. A genius design move on Doug's part to reinforce the style theme.
The front is plywood, the rear wall is Taskboard and the roof is fiberboard.
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Below, I colored the embossed bricks with fine line markers. The rest of the wall surface will be coated with water putty for stucco. The two different materials take color differently (as least with markers). The rather bright brick colors will be toned down by later applications of light chalk, for spalling and weathering.
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Below, the stucco coat. It is still drying in this shot. I mixed it up into a heavier consistency--something close to sour cream. It was much easier to get that "stucco" look, but it is a bit course. I will sand it down a bit when totally dry. Also, I remembered to keep the "H" crossbar free of stucco this time, as that is where the business sign will go.
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I'll be feathering the stucco coat around the bricks, adding tiny bits of spackle with a toothpick to blend it better, before painting.
--George
I'm really enjoying building the garage--it is a very simple structure but has a lot of character.
Instead of sanding down the courser parts of the dried water putty on the façade, I applied spackle, which smoothed out the highs and lows while still retaining a stucco feel. I also used the spackle around the exposed brick areas to represent the spalling base material. The window is painted with a Sharpie silver oil paint marker--quite different from regular markers which are watercolor or alcohol based colors. Using the Sharpie paint marker made coloring it a breeze, and coverage was nice with one coat.
I remember many such multi-colored windows in local garages from my urban neighborhood in the 1960s, and I wanted that "look." But memory has a way of tricking you, so I looked online for photos of old industrial/garage windows for verification. I found various shades of blue and yellow were common for some reason. Below are the parts before painting the stucco.
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Below are the "finished" walls and roof, with some roof components (still need some dry-brushing and other detailing). I modeled the roll-up door partially open, as this is a great opportunity to add some interior depth to the overall diorama. Instead of using acrylics to color the stucco, I tried a different technique and applied a rattle-can texture paint. I am really happy with the overall effect.
To get the deteriorating roof effect, I used strips of extra-heavy black paper applied with wood glue, and after it was set but still slightly damp, went over it heavily with one of those large foam emery boards. I think 220 grit sandpaper is comparable. I was really rough with it, and removed quite a bit of surface layers of the heavy paper. After it dried totally, I scrubbed in various quantities of pure white pastel chalk, then black, then brown.
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Below is the texture paint I used on the stucco: Rustoleum Multicolor Textured, Desert Bisque.
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--George
Hey George:
Well looks like you are off to good start on the next building. I'm following along with interest.
Karl
Continuing your stellar work. I think I'll break mine open and check for all the walls.
Looks great George.
Thanks, everyone.
To begin putting the first block together I began with a trial fit and all seemed good, with only minor trimming or sanding needed here and there. I began in reverse, though, starting by gluing the mill to its sidewalk base and working toward the restaurant instead of the other way around. Once the mill was secure, I attached the flat restaurant/garage sidewalk base to the end of the mill sidewalk base. At this point, I had not yet attempted to glue the restaurant down.
Next I glued the garage rear alley wall to the mill and to it's base. This not only provided a solid start to constructing the garage, but it reinforced the combined mill/garage/restaurant sidewalk base into one long piece. More test fitting with the garage roof and the adjoining restaurant, and when I was happy all would fit, I glued the garage front wall and roof in place.
Below is the assembly with a workshop casting for the garage interior.
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I added a cement garage floor with cardstock, painted the casting, applied a few interior signs and weathered the garage interior. The limited view of the interior through the partially open roll-up door will provide only a glimpse, so the viewer can allow imagination fill in the other (missing) details.
Below is the block with the garage finally attached in place. More detailing to be done, and the entire alley side of the mill awaits completion. I'll soon be attaching the actual bus terminal to the mill, and can finish that wall.
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I have suddenly realized just how large this kit will be, once all buildings are done and in place. This is essentially just one leg of the triangular diorama. I set the bus terminal where it will install beside the mill and found that it no longer fits on my workbench. I will probably need to move it to my layout for further work.
--George
Another note: in the photo above, you will see the freight dock on the mill is floating in air. I had not realized there was no base underneath it when I attached it to the mill. I'll be adding in a base. I'm thinking of adding a brick portion that fills in under the platform and also connects the sidewalks.
--George
George that is impressive looking.
George,
What can all of us say but " WOW " . This kit is just amazing and your build is looking great. Have been watching each part come together and even learned about a new craft paint brand this week too.
Tommy
Thank you Curt, and thank you, Tom! All of the support on this forum is very helpful.
Finishing the alley wall of the mill had me a little anxious for a few reasons. First, it is thin cardboard instead of thicker, more rigid wood siding, and second, it comes after attaching the bus terminal, so the entire assembly is much more difficult to handle.
The relative thinness of the wall also left a gap where the terminal wall joined. It was in brainstorming ideas to fill that gap that I found my solution to finishing the entire wall. I decided to fill the gap with a piece of cereal box cardboard, and in working out the needed dimensions hit upon the idea of just making it large enough to fit the entire wall. Below is my "filler wall" along with the first billboard sign to install.
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It took some fitting and checking to get the door and window openings to match the original wall, but after that, applying the other signs and wall finishes was easy. Below is the new wall nearly ready to install right over the original wall.
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And below is the alley entrance for the buses, with most building details installed. I plan to add more rain gutters, maybe a few more vent pipes and etc to the buildings, but structurally, this leg of the kit is mostly done. This represents about the half-way point of kit construction. Still to come is the livery stable, paddocks, shed, Canal Street Market along with the outdoor sales area, and finally the interior of the alley bus entrance.
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--George
Fantastic, can't wait to see it on your layout.
Here are all of the walls and roof sections of the livery building. Note that the carrier sheet from the bus terminal concrete island pieces is the first floor roof. Bracing is installed, but not trim.
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Here are the lower walls with the first few layers of finish: Distressed with wire brushes, A & I wash followed by dry-brushed acrylic red. White trim installed and doors and windows installed. All pretty straightforward. No surprises or "gotcha"s to warn about on these steps.
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Thanks for checking in!
--George
Looks good George. Are the walls a paper product?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 04, 2019, 08:56:43 AM
Looks good George. Are the walls a paper product?
Thanks, Curt. The walls shown painted red are wood siding milled to represent board and batten siding. The other walls are cardboard. The next step will be to color 2x10 stripwood and cut it to apply board-by-board over the cardboard.
--George
Your walls with all the signs look great! Your thread is definitely one to save for reference.
Thanks, Dave, I appreciate the support.
I lost a few pictures from my camera, but here are a few progress pics. Below are the upper walls, which are cardboard with individual stripwood (2x10) boards installed. By this time I had already installed a few windows and applied the LIVERY stencil. I think I got a bit heavy-handed with the paint on the stencil and will sand it a bit to fade it.
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The larger wall above will go against the bus terminal, so only a small visible portion received boards. I am typically very frugal with my use of supplied stripwood, but at this step, I fell woefully short of 2x10s and had to dip into my stock from the LHS.
I used wood glue to attach the boards. When the walls had dried, the glue had significantly warped the thin cardboard backing walls. So I added much more bracing than indicated on the plans. By this point, I could figure out how all the walls went together and feel confident in my bracing placement.
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In trial fitting of walls, I found that the bracing diagram in the kit has an error. Two adjoining walls have end bracing and one of them will need to have the bracing removed at the joint. But that won't be a problem. I'll illustrate that later when I attached the walls.
--George
Looks interesting George.
Nice coloring George. You using paint or pastels for the coloring?
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on April 06, 2019, 12:15:45 PM
Nice coloring George. You using paint or pastels for the coloring?
Jerry
Jerry, thanks for asking. I forgot to mention coloring the individual boards. I have been eager to try Brett Gallant's technique of coloring stripwood with pastel chalks, and this seemed like an ideal opportunity.
I have a really old set of soft pastel chalks that I have been using for ages, for modelling, so I can't say what exact color I used. It was a medium red and I added in some browns and grays for variety. Basically, you shave on some powdered chalk and then wash it in with a heavy application of alcohol. For variety, I did a few boards in a light blue and some in gray as well.
The resulting boards have a really good, aged appearance, with a chalky finish that looks like deteriorating paint. The chalky finish was why I used a heavier than average application of white paint for the LIVERY stencil, as I was afraid a light application from the stippling brush would just come off. I don't think I needed to worry about that.
--George
I joined the two hinged wall sections to make the upper story. Below, as they looked clamped and drying. You can see where I notched the bracing on the bottom of the rear wall so that it joined cleanly to the lower story wall. In addition, I removed the white trim from the right end of that lower story wall so that the rear wall would join flush to the sidewalk base.
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Here is a shot of the structure so far, with second story joined to the first story. This took quite a bit of fitting to get something satisfactory. It is not perfect--one upper wall does not join flush to the lower wall face, so I allowed a slight overhang as the best option. I think for a building with way more odd angles than right angles (even the roof slopes), this is my happy point. The weird angles are what gives it character.
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In fitting, at the corner joint closest to the camera, which is also the sharpest angle, some boards pushed away. I will repair that once it totally dries.
The other side. You can sort of see the extra overhang, which is on the front wall second story just to the right of the door--it goes from flush at the near corner to about 1/32 overhang by the time it gets to the loft overhang.
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--George
Coming along nicely George. Thanks for all of the pics and techniques you're sharing with us.
Looks good George. I bet all those angles are a pain in the butt.
Thank you, Mark, and thank you, Curt. The angles are indeed presenting me with an interesting build, for sure. But I can't say I'm not enjoying solving the "puzzle." ;)
Below is the basic structure with an extra bit of bracing at the front. This will give me a better surface to which I will glue the roof. You can also see a short piece of flooring inside the loft door to support some details. I also added a brownstone curb to the concrete under the overhang.
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Below is the main roof with scrap wood from some of the carrier sheets used for bracing. The roof needs to flex a little when installed--the slope of two opposing walls is different, one being steeper than the other--so I did not go crazy with bracing, opting for the thinner scrap wood.
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More later.
--George
George,
This is a great kit and your build and thread are wonderful.
I can't wait to start mine, and of course I have no idea when that will be.
Tom ;D
Tom, glad I can help and I'm very happy to have you looking over my shoulder as this comes together. It IS a fun kit.
I slowed it down a bit today in order to work in some extra roof details. The roof will get corrugated tin panels, but I wanted to show a little extra underneath. I've always enjoyed seeing this on other builds so thought I would try it here. I cut out a swatch of roof and installed boards underneath, with a rotted area and rafters peeking through. At the side, and on another spot, I installed some old Campbell shingles. When all is dry, I will color and weather, and then add the metal corrugated on top and around.
Note that the roof is just lying on top of the structure at this point. Also, the loft back walls and the skylights are just lying in position--nothing glued down.
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In the shot above, you can see the bracing I added to the small loft rear wall section. It is even with the wall bottom edge and will help to glue the assembly to the roof when time.
Here is a close up of the roof details. It looks a little rough here without weathering and without the surrounding metal roofing, but I am hopeful.
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George
Looks good George. Look forward to seeing it weathered.
Curt, here is a progress shot as I add the corrugated metal sheets. The shingles and wood underneath have an initial weathering treatment, too.
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Here is the livery building in place to check fit against the bus terminal. The roof is completely covered although not detailed. I also have weathering, dry-brushing for highlights, and lots more. Mostly I was just eager to see how it looked in place with the roof.
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A number of major components to add yet--the staircase and the supporting beams for the overhang being the notable ones.
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Lots more to do on this one but I am happy with the progress so far.
--George
Way to go George! I just love multiple layer roofs and walls!
That is really nice modeling George.
Roof turned out great. Nice coloring to.
Jerry
Outstanding work! What a wonderful structure.
This just keeps on getting better and better (started out pretty darn awesome too)[size=78%]! [/size] :D
Thanks much for all the comments, Bob C., Curt, Jerry, Bruce & Bob B!
Today I built the supporting wall for the overhang. It was a straightforward build on wax paper taped over the supplied plans. I had run out of the called-for 2x10s for the horizontal boards, so substituted from my stock of 2x12s. This made the boarded part of the wall slightly higher by about a scale foot, but I think it works, visually. Note that the boards go on the "horse-side" of the wall.
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I distressed the lumber with a razor saw, stained with Hunterline Blue Gray, then sanded slightly. I will later dry-brush with white. I also needed to remove about 3/4th of the side brace on the back cardboard wall to get an accurate fit.
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I also added some more trim, plus a hoist above the loft door. I will need to rummage around in my parts box for something that looks like a pulley mechanism.
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An outside staircase will go on the concrete landing to provide access to the second story door. In playing around with the siting for this structure on my layout, I am seeing that this side may be up front. Am thinking therefore of re-positioning the lower story door to allow more visibility inside. Horse stalls and straw would be an easy, but really neat detail just inside the door.
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--George
Great job , love the faded sign and weathered boards.
Very nice George.
Thank you, Jan, and thank you, Curt. Added the outside stairs and the business sign last evening. Will do more detail work and post pics after work today.
--George
Hey George:
Nice job on this kit. I came out nicely.
Karl
Thank you, Karl. Here are some pics of the Livery building pretty much finished. I won't build the horse paddocks until I lay out the entire block, as those are pretty much free-form and I need to see how much space I'll have. There will of course be landscaping added, too. For now, here is the structure sitting (but not yet glued) in place.
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and the back:
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and the front:
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I have some stable workers on order, and already have horses to add in. Fun!
And on to the grand finale for this kit, the optional Market Building. I located all walls, cut them from their carrier sheets, numbered them in pencil on the reverse, and laid them out. No bracing or anything yet--just an inventory.
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Some observations:
1. This building will look large--it is long and has good height.
2. It has four different types of walls: clapboard, board and batten, plain board, and shingled walls.
3. Be sure to save the carrier sheet for the gabled second story walls. The outside dimensions of the carrier sheet match the first floor dimensions at the base, so it appears to be a "concrete" base for the structure. The wide sidewalk/sales patio portion that goes with this structure probably butts up against the base.
4. The small four-sided clapboard shed walls can be confused--use the clapboard orientation as an easy guide to identification.
--George
WOW...this is awesome!
John
WOW is right. Great looking building George.
Nice work George! You've done a great job so far. Can't wait to see the rest of your progress.
What a fantastic looking building George , awesome work.
OPA!!!
There is nothing I would change about that building anywhere. Perfection!
Thank you, Curt, Mark, Jan and Darryl!
Here is a quick progress picture of the walls distressed and a wash of A&I. Same treatment to the trim, at bottom, except I also sponge painted it with acrylic Hunter Green. Not shown are the shingles for the task board gables, which I spray painted with Rustoleum Hunter Green.
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--George
The market walls are sponge painted in acrylic ivory. I wanted a softer white for a little contrast with the mill, but still wanted a basic white. Trim is hunter green, and the plastic windows are spray-painted Rustoleum Hunt Club Green.
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Next step will be to apply the shingles to the gabled end walls, then install doors and windows. Signs after that, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
--George
Looks good George.
Thanks, Curt.
I was able to get the gabled ends shingled. The kit provides hexagon shaped decorative shingles. I painted them a dark hunter green with very light oversprays of lighter greens. I think it gives them some extra depth and implies a grit texture. Try as I might, I could not get the provided shingles to stretch to cover both gabled top stories. After using well more than half on the first wall--and being very conservative in application with very little waste--I knew that the second gable would need a different treatment. I had lots of tab-style shingles left over from the restaurant, so I painted them to match and alternated rows on the other gable end. I think it turned out well and resembles many of the decorative shingle patterns I see on 1:1 structures around town.
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I have no more door castings in the kit, so I may need to find a suitable one in my parts stash for the first floor of one of the long walls. I notice there is still one laser cut door on the carrier sheet from the first part of the kit, so perhaps I was supposed to use that on one of the first few buildings and accidentally used a plastic cast door. No matter--one or the other will work out.
--George
The last building very nice indeed.
Looking forward to this part of the build.
Jerry
Great save on the shortage of shingles George! This one's looking very good too. The entire build will be a great addition to your layout and a real eye catcher. :D
Quote from: Jerry on April 26, 2019, 10:30:10 AM
The last building very nice indeed.
Looking forward to this part of the build.
Jerry
--
Thank you, Jerry. This last building has the potential for an incredible amount of detail and visual interest with mini-scenes--market vendors, shoppers, piles of produce, a produce truck maybe, stacks of crates. Should be fun.
--George
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 26, 2019, 12:27:13 PM
Great save on the shortage of shingles George! This one's looking very good too. The entire build will be a great addition to your layout and a real eye catcher. :D
Thanks, Bob! Once I get this structure done I will be able to figure out the layout placement and start on the groundcover, roads and scenery. I've been holding off on placing the last few kits I built (Bar Mills FSM Tribute #1; BIS the waterfront) knowing this one has an unusually large footprint. Indeed, it is considerably bigger than I realized.
--George
Just a little progress today. I painted the black background for the MEAT, FISH, POULTRY stencil, then began applying the lettering. For the overall sign placement, I studied photos from the FOS website. You can download them and then enlarge them quite a bit on your device to explore details.
I noticed the black background was exactly six horizontal board widths tall, and the lettering itself exactly four board widths in height. That helped me with placement, as I did not want to put it too low and interfere with the suspended roof.
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Note that the individual words are not applied in the same order as they appear on the stencil. I am sure you could do that, but the spacing will be much more even if you apply the word "MEAT" to the left of the window, and the other two to the right. I cut the stencil apart to make it easier to work with.
Below are the finished results (before weathering). Keep telling yourself "less is more." I used a sponge to apply both the black background and the white lettering, and found it much easier to get a light application than if I used a stencil brush. Just my preference.
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I actually got the word "POULTRY" a little heavier/whiter than the other words, so went back and lightly sponged more black over top. I then lightly sponged some extra white over the large expanses of black area. I tinkered with this, going back and forth, until satisfied. Later, I will VERY LIGHTLY sponge on some "earth" to suggest bare wood underneath all.
--George
Time to add the safety stripe to the alley wall. I masked off about 1/2 inch for a white background. Although the walls are already white, I wanted a contrast, so used my acrylic white, whereas the market walls were done in ivory. My background story holds that the market is owned by a co-op, and maintenance is minimal, therefore it has not been painted since well before the safety stripes were added by the bus company.
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I painted the black safety "arrows" freehand. I had used a stencil on the bus terminal interior walls but found it cumbersome. I found it helpful to mark the direction of the arrows on the blue masking tape, for consistency. The panel alley doorway was painted separately as it will be installed partially open.
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Instructions do not address the guides for the structure's warehouse doors. It does include nice door hanging hardware, so I played around with scrap wood until I found a size that fit neatly under the hanging hardware and looked correct. I split a strip of 1/16 x 1/32 for a 1/32 square "door guide" to install at the top. Some acrylic rust colors "terra cotta" and "cinnamon" and some black for grease were used for color. I plan to install the doors in open positions so that I can fill the interior with detail. For now, they are just lying in place to check fit.
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I spray painted the doors with Rustoleum "aluminum" and will add rust after installation.
--George
Great job George.
Thanks, Curt!
Persistent rain here has taken yardwork out of the picture, so time for a little more progress. The provided foundation doubled as a carrier sheet for the gable ends, and if the interior is not visible, would be fine. I want to add some interior details, so the large angular cut-outs will be awkward. I considered substituting scribed siding for a wooden floor, but then thought that a concrete floor would be more appropriate for this type of structure, which would be regularly cleaned with hoses and scrub brushes.
To that end, I delved into my supply of heavy art paper (8 1/2 x 11 sheets in bulk color assortments from the paper-crafting section of my local craft store) for a brownish shade and cut it to shape using the task board foundation as a template.
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I glued the paper to the top of the task board, then gave it a spray-paint coat of Rustoleum camouflage "Khaki." While it dried, I glued and clamped the four main structure walls together. The small angled wall is not yet installed.
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The instructions are to install the roof first, then apply the roofing strips. I like the control I get from installing the roofing strips first, so I began that application. The thin cardboard is warping here, but I'll let it dry under a weight, and then add wooden bracing before installing on the structure. Also, I will install all of the roofing strips except the ridge cap, which I'll glue on after the roof is in place.
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So here is the structure basic shell with angled wall and side entrance shed installed. The roof is underneath the book.
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George
Looking good
Keeps getting better and Better Opa George. You make me wish I had purchased this kit.
;D ;D ;D
Thanks, Bob, and thank you, Bruce. It seems to be available on the second hand market at reasonable prices yet. I saw one for about the same price I paid direct from the company. It is a lot of modeling fun and the footprint is quite a bit bigger than I initially thought--so lots of model bang for the buck.
Time for an update. I've slowed down a bit with the nicer weather and working to free the garden from its winter doldrums. Also, the end of school is near and that means busy weeks at the academy.
Here is the business side of the structure, not yet under roof. I added a ridge beam, but am waiting for delivery of some interior detailing parts before I install the roof. I did start posting some signs. All shown are pre-weathering. They will get a fading and streaking treatment soon.
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The dormer base forms are cardboard. They are to be sided with weathered and painted scale 2x6s. All I have left are in the picture above, ready to go. However the instructions still call for 17 overhang roof supports to be cut from the stock. I don't think I'll make them stretch and will likely need to dip into my own stock.
Here is the alley side of the market. I plan to keep the big billboard looking fresh and newly installed, so minimal weathering. I will install framing around it.
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Here are the dormers with siding installed. I used up nearly all the 2x6 stock, so will use different stock for the roof supports.
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--George
George
Great build! I'm really enjoying your thread - very nice work.
George
Your sure keeping the interest at a high level. Great work.
Jerry
Great job George. The stripes on the bottom of the wall makes a optical illusion at least to my eyes.
Looking terrific, George.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, John, Jerry, Curt and Mark. I have been away for a number of days but will get some more work done and photos posted soon. I am currently working on the pavement/outdoor sales area of the market as well as some interior detail.
--George
George
It does look like an optical illusion, very neat. Looking great.
Jim D
Hey George:
The build looks just great. The signs look just great. I am A sign freak. I have a very large sign collection and enjoy just looking at them. Anyway keep up the good work and pictures.
Karl
Thank you, Jim, and thank you, Karl. I also love good vintage signs!
Workplace work (the kind that produces a paycheck) and gardening are big time sponges about now, but I did make a little progress. Below is the market with the roof finally in place. I also posed some fruit and vegetable crate castings in the outside sales area to get a quick fix for the details. The castings are from Model Tech and just arrived in the mail. The white sales tables were built from kit parts.
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I attached the dormers and the elevator tower to the roof, although not in the same position as on the pilot model. Note that nothing is weathered yet, so it all looks a little "rough" before highlighting, A&I washes and blending with chalks. Also, I have a lot of trim to add, as well as rafter tails.
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Slow but sure.
--George
Really nice details George.
I love the details George.
George,
You've done a masterful job on the build. I love everything about it.
Tom ;D
George:
It's looking just beautiful.
Karl
I agree with Karl. wow!!!
Dennis
That is going to be a really nice scene.
Looking awesome !
Dick
Thanks everyone for all the supportive comments. I promise more progress photos soon--just been kind of busy lately. I certainly haven't forgotten the forum or the build thread.
--George
I've been pretty swamped too, George, but I've been following. Wonderful thread!
Quote from: Dave K. on May 12, 2019, 07:14:41 AM
I've been pretty swamped too, George, but I've been following. Wonderful thread!
Ditto that. This is one my favorite threads and I always keep an eye on it even though I may not have time to post a reply.
Thanks, Dave and Bob! Yes, busy time of year. But with the rain today I managed to get some time in.
Here is the market building with the front loading area roof added. I had extra corrugated roofing from the kit so decided to use that instead of rolled roofing. Also began adding some trim and a few other details. Still quite a bit to do on this one, but it is getting closer to complete.
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It won't be long until I am ready to site the completed kit, which is actually an entire city block, on the layout. The size of the market, with its large outdoor sales area, will drive the final siting decision. I saved the horse paddocks that go with the livery stable for last. I'll build them in place since they can be free-form and adapt to the size of the remaining available real estate.
--George
A side discussion on a parallel thread noted how photos help your modeling by highlighting mistakes. My-oh-my, I don't know what I was thinking with the trim at the top of those dormers. Those oversized boards need to come off to be replaced with something less massive.
--George
Tremendous work overall, but I especially like the peeled paint and signage...Great work!
John
Photography is a blessing and a curse, no? I like the mismatched rolled roofing. 👍🏻 Gonna be fun to see you site this. Great thread and bookmarked reference.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Been reading and following along George! what an amazing build thread and beautiful work on your build. as others said repeatedly, I too will be using this thread as a reference when I start building in a few weeks! thank you!
Thanks for the comments, John and Dave--very much appreciated.
Hey Todd--I was working tonight listening to podcast #73. Added some details like rafter tails and -->gutters! I use 1/16th wood u-channel from The Station. Paint it a metallic color then hit it with grime, rust and dirt. Below is the front of the market with a gutter installed all along the front. No downspouts yet.
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Below is the alley side with rafter tails and guttering being installed. I ran out of 1/16th channel.
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Getting closer to the weathering stage, then will add details.
--George
George! brilliant! 1/16 u-channel! perfect for gutters! love that idea! where do I get u-channel so I can load up? thank You!!
Quote from: Todd W. on May 13, 2019, 10:48:55 PM
George! brilliant! 1/16 u-channel! perfect for gutters! love that idea! where do I get u-channel so I can load up? thank You!!
I buy it from The Station, on 9th Street in New Cumberland. Although their scratch building supplies are limited, they stock a huge inventory of strip wood. It is not out on display--it would take up most of their display space--you have to ask for it.
--George
Quote from: Opa George on May 14, 2019, 05:29:37 AM
Quote from: Todd W. on May 13, 2019, 10:48:55 PM
George! brilliant! 1/16 u-channel! perfect for gutters! love that idea! where do I get u-channel so I can load up? thank You!!
I buy it from The Station, on 9th Street in New Cumberland. Although their scratch building supplies are limited, they stock a huge inventory of strip wood. It is not out on display--it would take up most of their display space--you have to ask for it.
--George
Todd Northeastern also has it under 1/16 channel
https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html (https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html)
Hey George:
Looks just wonderful.
Karl
George,
Great build and very well done.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the comments, Karl and Tom. Ken, thanks also for that link for anyone without access to an LHS without scratchbuilding supplies. I feel lucky to have one within a few miles, but they are getting rare.
On the 1/16th channel as a rain gutter, I should note that rain gutters prior to World War II were mostly half-round. I did find a few pics of squared gutters going way back to colonial times, but the half-round predominated. Once manufacturing picked up just after the Second World War, the squared gutters took over, however.
Still, I like the look of my solution even though they are the exception rather than the rule. I think I'll explain it away as a local supplier's preference. ;)
George
Hey George:
Just as an FYI. I was A house painter at one point in my life. We did house the the rain gutters were wood and built into the rooves. Had to treat them with Linseed Oil.
karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 16, 2019, 09:51:11 AM
Hey George:
Just as an FYI. I was A house painter at one point in my life. We did house the the rain gutters were wood and built into the rooves. Had to treat them with Linseed Oil.
karl
Karl, thanks for that information--a good reminder that there are lots of types. Do you know how old they were? I'm wondering how many years that type of gutter would last, given proper treatment of course.
--George
Beautiful work George! Been following along as well. Great idea using the U-channel for gutters.
Quote from: Amagic41 on May 14, 2019, 09:57:41 AM
Quote from: Opa George on May 14, 2019, 05:29:37 AM
Quote from: Todd W. on May 13, 2019, 10:48:55 PM
George! brilliant! 1/16 u-channel! perfect for gutters! love that idea! where do I get u-channel so I can load up? thank You!!
I buy it from The Station, on 9th Street in New Cumberland. Although their scratch building supplies are limited, they stock a huge inventory of strip wood. It is not out on display--it would take up most of their display space--you have to ask for it.
--George
Todd Northeastern also has it under 1/16 channel
https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html (https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html)
George- Thank You! I will have to get down there. Haven't been to the Station in over a year. Usually stop there for woodland scenic scenery stuff when I run short. Dude, I didn't know you were in Harrisburg area! You, Brett and I will have to get together for lunch or something and talk shop!
Kenny- Thanks Brother! I will check there and order in bigger quantity if I manage to make the gutters look good and want to start adding them to builds. I just feel it is a feature that is missing on so many, and I never would have known if it wasn't for my brother the non-modeler saying something...lol
Quote from: Todd W. on May 22, 2019, 09:00:18 AM
Quote from: Amagic41 on May 14, 2019, 09:57:41 AM
Quote from: Opa George on May 14, 2019, 05:29:37 AM
Quote from: Todd W. on May 13, 2019, 10:48:55 PM
George! brilliant! 1/16 u-channel! perfect for gutters! love that idea! where do I get u-channel so I can load up? thank You!!
I buy it from The Station, on 9th Street in New Cumberland. Although their scratch building supplies are limited, they stock a huge inventory of strip wood. It is not out on display--it would take up most of their display space--you have to ask for it.
--George
Todd Northeastern also has it under 1/16 channel
https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html (https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/structural-shape/116cha.html)
George- Thank You! I will have to get down there. Haven't been to the Station in over a year. Usually stop there for woodland scenic scenery stuff when I run short. Dude, I didn't know you were in Harrisburg area! You, Brett and I will have to get together for lunch or something and talk shop!
Kenny- Thanks Brother! I will check there and order in bigger quantity if I manage to make the gutters look good and want to start adding them to builds. I just feel it is a feature that is missing on so many, and I never would have known if it wasn't for my brother the non-modeler saying something...lol
Todd, yeah, we should get together this summer. I'll message you guys through your website later once my hours ease up when school ends. --George
I'm close enough to finishing "The Terminal" to call it finished, although do we ever truly "finish" a kit? I know I go back constantly to add stuff. I still need to build the horse paddocks and add ground scenery, plus I have two Jordan buses to build and add.
Below is the market building from the front. It's a busy day, as you can see.
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Here is a three-quarter view. The foreground track is an abandoned track that will hold a rusting locomotive eventually.
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The market in location next to the livery stable. Horse paddocks will likely take up the space where the milk tank truck is parked.
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Overall shot of The Terminal, with the shoe factory, auto repair, and restaurant in the background.
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Other end of the market, showing the alley entrance to the bus station.
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Overall shot again with a better view of how everything fits together.
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Longer view from the other side showing the entire kit, with the Bar Mills F&SM Tribute Kit #1 across the street.
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Just pics today. Tomorrow or later I'll post my summary of the build, things to watch for, what I really liked and etc.
--George
wow, the Canal Street Market building looks fantastic! Well done! The weathering and detail, roof and wall shingles,,,,, you do great work! That market building could be a kit on its own!
You did a Beautiful job George!!!!!
Dennis
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻Bravo!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Very nice work.
Jeff
Very nice.
Eric
Gorgeous modeling , what a great job.
Awesome job! Looks very realistic to me.
;D ;D 8)
Thanks everyone, for the wonderful comments. I am really happy with how this turned out and excited to get to the scenery portion a bit later.
In summary, I really enjoyed building this kit. It is by far the most complex kit I have ever built, but not the most difficult, given that it requires mostly patience and some experience with basic techniques. Working a few hours per week, it took me about 3 1/2 months. That is a very good return on money spent if measured in pleasure derived over time.
Observations:
1. Organization of kit contents is okay but could use a little more labeling. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out which part was which. I hope this step-by-step helps other modelers in that regard.
2. Quantity of stripwood supplied is meager and in a few instances insufficient. I plan my cuts and use the stripwood judiciously, but still had to supplement with my own stock.
3. Instructions are good, but not as detailed as Fine Scale Miniatures or Builders in Scale. Take your time, read ahead and also plan out your own steps for certain detailing. A lot of really cool small details (the art deco main entrance door handles on the bus station, for instance) are not mentioned--see point 4, below.
4. Use the website photos, and those on Doug Foscale's Facebook page, for reference. They are invaluable and provide much needed "visual instructions."
5. When Doug offers an "add-on" as in the case of the market building, buy it. It really makes the kit, and represents a good value. The market building alone is huge and would retail for much more than the $55 he originally charged as an add on.
Enough of my opinions. If you get this kit, enjoy it. It is easily one of my all time favorites.
--George
You really nailed the build George! Thanks again for all of the pictures and commentary during your build.
Beautiful model George..... 8)
Beautiful modeling George.
I like your observations on the kit, George. I think others should add that to their build threads. It'll help us be better consumers and hopefully give the kit vendors some feedback on where they could improve.
dave
Great wrap up to a wonderful thread George. :D The results are absolutely stunning.
Thanks for taking the time to share all this with us!
George one hell of a build!
Great pictures and tutorial plus outstanding thread period!!
Jerry
Beautiful work, George!
I agree - the 'wrap up' is very useful.
Thanks for taking the time to share in such detail.
Cheers, Mark
Ditto on the post-build summary.
Hey George:
Just beautiful.
Karl
A big thank you to everyone for all the supportive comments in building this kit. Clearing and organizing my workbench for another adventure.
--George