The Modeler's Forum

Time for a new build thread.  I'm going to build the Fine Scale Miniatures Kit #295 Fox Run Milling.

Note: Bear with me on the picture size for the first few posts.  I uploaded these slightly larger than I should have which causes the scroll bar to appear.  I'll get it right sooner or later.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174207.jpeg)

I suspect this puppy is going to take me quite some time to complete but that's okay.  I do this because I enjoy doing it so the longer it takes me the more bang I'm getting for my buck.   :D  My goal is to get this one finished in time to take to the Expo next year to display and, assuming I do a decent enough job of it, after which I'll trade it to Mr. Seckler for the un-built version of the very same kit.   :D

I bought this kit when it first came out in 1997.  In the ad you'll notice it was the last of the 'big' kits before FSM started the Jewel Series.  Well, we all know that some of he Jewel Series ended up being big kits as well and that's just fine by me.

We'll start by pulling the box off the shelf (and dusting it off to take this picture).

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174457-2176728.jpeg)

Next comes the fun part, opening the box to see what's inside.   :D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174457-22432453.jpeg)

This is one of those kits that came with the instructions in a booklet form rather than in several large 'road map' type sheets.  There's bags of wood parts, plastic parts, some metal castings (that I assume didn't fit in the smaller casting box we'll get to later, a large metal wall and some large wood pieces milled to look like concrete wall.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174457-2244889.jpeg)

Lot's of strip wood, signs, corrugated aluminum, signs and wire.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174457-22452279.jpeg)

And, of course, that famous little box chock full of detail castings.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174457-2246840.jpeg)

More in a moment...

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, there's also lot's of templates and cardstock sheets too.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-270514174628.jpeg)

Any time I start a new build the first thing I do is get a new single edge razor blade out and also put new blades in all of my knife handles.  I have two handles with #11 X-Acto blades in them and one with a #18 chisel blade it in.

I started this kit by cleaning the castings.  First I removed the plastic cast stuff using a sprue cutter.  Hard to see it in this picture but it's a handy little tool and makes fairly clean, precise cuts.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114102-2324187.jpeg)

I touch up the edges of the plastic parts, where they were 'desprued', with an ordinary emery board.  Just a quick swipe or two to smooth out any rough edges.  Don't get too aggressive with the emery board because it will sand away stuff you don't want sanded away.   :o

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114102-23251303.jpeg)

The kit includes some plastic barrels that have to be assembled.  I glued them together using plastic cement and a disposable micro brush to apply the cement.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114103-2326279.jpeg)

I touched up the metal castings with some small files.  This takes me a while only because I like to examine the castings to see what neat stuff is on them.  There's actually very little filing that needs to be done on most of them.  They're cast very well.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114103-2327410.jpeg)

Woo-hoo!  I think I got this picture size thing down.

If a casting has a big goober of metal that needs to be removed I keep an old pair of flush cutting rail nippers handy.  It saves a lot of filing.  There were only one or two places I needed these in this kit though.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114331-23282119.jpeg)

More in a moment...

Okay, the next thing I do is a personal preference and can be skipped.  Washing the castings.  In fact, George mentions in the instructions that some modelers do this but he doesn't.  Karl will surely weigh in on this as well.  He doesn't waste the time to was them either.  So, skip it if you like.  I use a small dish of warm water with a drop of dishwashing liquid in it, an old toothbrush and dish of clean water to rinse the casting in.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114331-2329840.jpeg)

I change the water I rinse the castings in quite frequently since a little soap transfers over to it with each casting I rinse.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114331-2330311.jpeg)

When the castings have dried I lay them out on an old baking sheet with strips of painters tape taped upside down to it to hold the smaller castings in place.  Then I prepare the paint for my airbrush.  I make sure to completely mix my paint, a fresh bottle of Floquil Primer in this case, first.  When I run out of Floquil Primer and Floquil Earth, the two colors I normally use to prime parts, I'll have to switch to something else.  Possibly a rattle can of one of the camouflage colors that's available and has been used, with success, by others.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114331-23311068.jpeg)

I use an eyedropper to transfer the paint over into a mixing cup (and small stainless steel measuring cup).  I count how many eyedroppers full of paint I transfer over.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114332-23322477.jpeg)

For every three eyedroppers full of paint I add one eyedropper full of thinner.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114608-23331290.jpeg)

Time to paint.  I use a Paashe Talon double action, gravity fed airbrush.  I do my painting out in the driveway.  I can't think of a better ventilated place.  I also had a large fan running to help keep me cool (I do live in Florida  8) ).  I start by painting every thing from left to right and back again.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114608-23341944.jpeg)

More in a moment...

 

After I complete my first pass I turn my baking sheet 1/4 turn and repeat the process.  I do that two more times until I've hit everything from all for sides.  I want to make sure I get all the edges from all angles.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114608-23351271.jpeg)

I let everything sit for a few minutes until they're dry enough to flip over.  Then I flip over the stuff that needs to be primed on all sides and paint the back.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114608-2336104.jpeg)

The last thing I do, and probably the most important step in all of this if you want to have an enjoyable experience next time you break out the airbrush, is take my airbrush apart and thoroughly clean it.   ;D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114608-23371481.jpeg)

Okay, time to start working on a base for the diorama.  This one requires a large base.  !3" by 20" and two levels.  I'm including the template for the base so Robert has some idea of how much space this thing is going to take up.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114751-23381220.jpeg)

I've been trying to decide whether I wanted to make the base out of GatorFoam or plywood.  I decide to try GatorFoam first to see how well I could do it and, if I didn't like the results, then I'd go with plywood.  I have an X-Acto foam board cutter that I use to cut the GatorFoam.  I make several passes with this thing, extending the blade a little bit further out each time, until I cut all the way through the board.  The first pass if made using a ruler.  Once I get a cut through the tough exterior I tried placing a small metal square next to the cutter to keep it straight so I could get a square cut.  I the previous cut guides the blade.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114751-23392291.jpeg)

Here's the top piece and the bottom piece cut out.  The GatorFoam I'm using came from large signs that were all over the place at a company event a few years ago.  When the event was over I asked them what they were going to do with the signs and they said most of them would be thrown out.  I ended up dragging three of them out to my van to take home with me.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114751-23401.jpeg)

I had to cut strips to elevate the upper level exactly 1 7/16" above the lower section.  After a miscalculation and a mulligan I got the size of the strips right and used a hot glue gun to glue everything together.  At this point I'm happy with the results.  I could make one out of plywood but it would be heavier and I have more of a fear of plywood warping when I scenic the diorama than I do with the GatorFoam.  I'm not 100% settle on this yet.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-010614114752-2341740.jpeg)

That's as far as I've gotten at the moment.  More updates to come as I make some progress.   :D

Very Inspiring.... thank to take time to share it with us. It's always a pleasure to follow a modelers effort on a FSM kit.
Eric Québec city

Quote from: EricQuebec on June 01, 2014, 02:03:51 PM
Very Inspiring.... thank to take time to share it with us. It's always a pleasure to follow a modelers effort on a FSM kit.
Eric Québec city

Thanks Eric.  Glad to have you following along.   :D

Really looking forward to this.

Hi Bob:

Looking forward to your build. Will be following along.

Karl

Bob


Your build threads are second to none! I will be watching with great interest.

Great , an FSM build thread is always nice to follow, thanks Bob.

Bob
  Can't wait to see your progress on this one. I'm sure I'll pick up  a thing or 20 along the way a I usually do when following your builds.

Kenny

Don't get too comfortable and cocky - I'm watchin' over your shoulder!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D
Same as I do on all your builds - I don't intend to miss nuthin that the Ledbetter construction
crew can use on my layout!

Do cookies baked on those cookie sheets taste funny?  Like paint?   ;D I'll be interested to see how the Gatorfoam base works as well.


Jeff

Bob.......

I really like your fully ventilated spray booth.

very safe.

see ya
Bob

Great start Bob, I'll be following along on your next adventure!

Sir Bob,

Count me in on all the followers on this one.

Tom ;D

Ditto...looking forward to this thread. Thank you for taking the time.

Quote from: Pops on June 01, 2014, 03:42:50 PM
Really looking forward to this.

Thanks Pops.  I'm glad to have you following along.  I see by your signature that you're relatively new to the hobby so I'll try to take my time and step you through what's involved in building an FSM kit.  George's kits have long been my favorites.  The instructions are so chock full of tips and techinques it's like taking a class on how to built a structure and diorama. 

Quote from: postalkarl on June 01, 2014, 07:04:51 PM
Hi Bob:

Looking forward to your build. Will be following along.

Karl

Thanks Karl!  Always a pleasure to have the master follow along.   :D

Quote from: S&S RR on June 01, 2014, 07:29:10 PM
Bob


Your build threads are second to none! I will be watching with great interest.

Thanks John!  Much appreciated.  I'll try and take my time and cover all the important stuff.   :D

Quote from: Janbouli on June 01, 2014, 07:44:17 PM
Great , an FSM build thread is always nice to follow, thanks Bob.

Thanks Jan!  I couldn't agree more.  Let's pull those yellow boxes down off the shelf and get some build threads going gang.   ;D

Quote from: Amagic41 on June 01, 2014, 09:55:22 PM
Bob
  Can't wait to see your progress on this one. I'm sure I'll pick up  a thing or 20 along the way a I usually do when following your builds.

Kenny

Thanks Kenny!  I'll be sure to pass on the tips that are included in the instructions plus and deviations I may make from them.  Most of what I learned to do came from building FSM kits and the forums so I take great pleasure in sharing what I can.   :D

Quote from: gnatshop on June 01, 2014, 10:19:47 PM
Don't get too comfortable and cocky - I'm watchin' over your shoulder!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D
Same as I do on all your builds - I don't intend to miss nuthin that the Ledbetter construction
crew can use on my layout!

It just wouldn't be the same if you weren't following along Gnat.   :D

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 01, 2014, 10:33:03 PM
Do cookies baked on those cookie sheets taste funny?  Like paint?   ;D I'll be interested to see how the Gatorfoam base works as well.


Jeff

Around X-Mas it works best if I use Dark Green or Caboose Red before we bake the X-Mas cookies.  That way the paint flakes blend right in.   ;D

I think I'll stick with the GatorFoam base.  It's extremely sturdy, I have no worries about it warping and it's light weight.  I've used it on some other builds and really like it but all of those were only single level.  This was the first attempt at building a multi-level base with it.

Thanks for following along Jeff!   

Quote from: GPdemayo on June 02, 2014, 07:54:41 AM
Great start Bob, I'll be following along on your next adventure!

Thanks Greg!  Glad to have you following along.  You have the distinct advantage of being able to check out my progress in person from time to time so I have to keep it real.   :D

See you Saturday!

Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2014, 12:40:45 PM
Sir Bob,

Count me in on all the followers on this one.

Tom ;D

Always a pleasure to have you following along Tom!  I'll be getting back at this one hot and heavy next week after I finish preparing for our lighting clinic this weekend.   :D   

Quote from: Dave K. on June 02, 2014, 01:33:11 PM
Ditto...looking forward to this thread. Thank you for taking the time.

My pleasure Dave and thanks for following along.   ;D

Bob,

I agree with you on the Gator Foam. It is extremely sturdy and better yet very light.

Great start on the build. I'm "chomping at the bit" to get back to kit building but I need to get the ovalix finished and operational.

Tom ;D

Hi Bob:

Looks like you are off to a good start. Everybody loves washing castings. Never done it in my life and have never had a problem. Just thought you might be interested in knowing that.

Karl.

I'll be tagging along for the ride, Bob.

One of my all time favourite FSM kits.  Looking forward to your wonderful tutorials.

Cheers, Mark.

OK, you're back from your trip and only two days until a week-end - mow the grass and do the
typical Floridy 'grow like he, err, heck, schtuff!
We're still hangin' around for the 'rest of the story' on Fox Run Milling!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

I just re-read the thread, so we're all up to speed and ready...but no pressure.  ;D

Thanks guys,

:D  I'll be getting back to this one shortly.  I started doing the final painting on some of the detail castings and have been thinking about posting a few pictures and comments about that process.  Normally I skip that part in a build thread cause there are so many others out there better than me when it comes to painting the castings but what the heck, I might delve into it a little bit this time.

I've also started a CCK kit that I'm going to do a build thread on so that, plus being on vaction, has kept me a way from this one for a little bit.

Hang in there!  I'll be back.   ;D

Okay, I have actually been working on this one recently but I've been focusing on painting the detail castings so there's been no "glue on wood" at this point.   :)   I'm going to walk you through the steps I took to paint the stone retaining wall that runs along side the road.  I consider this a happy accident.  I've never been pleased with the results I get when I paint stone walls but I think I lucked out on this one.

This wall is a metal casting and I had previously primed it with Floquil Primer.  The first thing I did was, per the instructions, paint it with Floquil Concrete.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175050-38401573.jpeg)

Painting it with Concrete was as far as I went with regards to sticking to the instructions.  The instructions then call for painting some individual stones with Floquil Oak Stain and some with a darker gray after which A&I is applied and then drybrushing.  I opted, however, to paint the individual stones with cheap craft store acrylics: Raw Umber, Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna.  (If you follow my lead on this don't worry about being too precise painting the stones.  Also, blend the various colors together to create even more shades of reddish browns as you paint the stones).

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175050-38412133.jpeg)

When I finished the wall it was just a little too dark, overall, for my tastes.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175050-38421351.jpeg)

To lighten it up I took another cheap craft store acrylic, a light gray, along with a lot of water to give the wall a "wash".  Partly because I was impatient and did this right after I paint the stones so the paint hadn't fully cured and partly because I used cheap craft store acrylics I discovered that scrubbing the stones a little bit with the wash blended the browns together to a grayish/muddy sort of color and exposed some of the underlying Floquil Concrete.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175050-38431475.jpeg)

After the wash dried I gave the wall a treatment of A&I being very careful not to brush the walls.  The A&I will definitely loosen up the acrylic paints.  One nice thing about using cheap arcylics for something like this is if you don't like the result you can wash them off and get back to the underlying Floquil paints with little difficulty.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175050-3844383.jpeg)

Here's my final wall after drybrushing with an off white and adding a few bits of coarse turf.  The wash blended the rather harsh browns together but left just a little bit of distinction between the stones.  Some are just a shade darker than others or more reddish than others but all in all I ended up with colors I'm happy with.   :D   I'll probably hit it with Dullcoat to seal the acrylic paints so the water that will inevitably get on it when I'm adding scenery doesn't mess it up.

Thanks for following along.  Back to painting those detail castings.   :D

Good work on the wall Bob.....

Ooops.....it would have helped if the picture of the finished wall had been included in my previous post.   :o

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-050814175133.jpeg)

Sorry about that!

Nice lookin' wall, Bob.

Jeff

Nice job on the wall!

Wow!  What an improvement over the first go around.  But then I'm partial towards grayer rocks.

Terrific stone work ! ! !  !

Thanx
Bob

Great colouring, Bob!

Nice and subtle.

Cheers, Mark.

The extra steps to arrive at the finish line are what make your builds special. The way that the finished appearance was created was really impressive. If someone (me) painted those gray stones gray, there would so much missing in the final coloring vs. the way you got there.


Educational as always...John

Yeah, the wall's great and the castings are good. BUT, LOVE the T shirt. Just don't like 'em in the NL East cellar.

Nice work Bob. I kind of wondered what Greg liked so well before you added the last photo of the wall.


This is one of George's kits that I'm sorry I missed. I had my hands on one at a show but Jaime talked me out of it. When I went back later it was gone. H'mmmm. No, he wouldn't have- would he?

Quote from: Mike Engler on August 06, 2014, 09:18:11 PM
Nice work Bob. I kind of wondered what Greg liked so well before you added the last photo of the wall.


This is one of George's kits that I'm sorry I missed. I had my hands on one at a show but Jaime talked me out of it. When I went back later it was gone. H'mmmm. No, he wouldn't have- would he?

I resemble that remark.


Fox Run is the last of the big kits. All kits thereafter are the Jewel Series.


Jaime

Nice looking job [wall] Bob. Experimental accidents can sometime work out for the better. :) :) :) :)

Thanks for the responses Greg, Jeff, Dave, Bob, Bob, Mark, John, BandOGuy (yeah, I hate seeing the Phillies in the basement too), Mike (Jamie did it), Jamie and (last but not least) Bart!

Like Bart said, "Experimental accidents can sometime work out for the better."  Now I want to go cast some stone walls just to see if I can repeat the process.   :D   I'll have to resist the urge though, I want to stay focused on this build for a while. 

Morning Bob,

Just let me repeat myself here, FANTASTIC JOB ON ALL OF IT!

There, I feel better.

Tom ;D

Hi Bob:

Looks like you are having fun painting all those cool castings.

Karl

Quote from: ACL1504 on August 07, 2014, 08:22:48 AM
Morning Bob,

Just let me repeat myself here, FANTASTIC JOB ON ALL OF IT!

There, I feel better.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom!  I'm anxious to getting anxious to get beyond the castings and back into the cutting and gluing stuff together.   :D

Quote from: postalkarl on August 08, 2014, 07:39:15 AM
Hi Bob:

Looks like you are having fun painting all those cool castings.

Karl

Hi Karl,

I always enjoy examining the detail in George's castings as I paint them.  They're amazing.   :D   I'm going to paint the concrete retaining walls next so I can get back to work on the base for the diorama.  Then I need to settle on the overall colors of the structures.  Should be fun. 

Hi Bob:

Sounds good. I'll be watching. You're like me and like to change to colors around.

Karl

Quote from: postalkarl on August 12, 2014, 09:25:59 AM
Hi Bob:

Sounds good. I'll be watching. You're like me and like to change to colors around.

Karl

Thanks Karl.  This time around I think I'll stick (for the most part anyway) with the colors George used - Earth for the main structure (everything - walls, doors, trim) and Boxcar Red for the shed.  Instead of an undercoat of Floquil Driftwood I'm going to use Hunterline Light Gray.

Okay, back to the build.   :D   I painted the concrete retaining walls using a method that I think was mentioned in the instructions as something that George doesn't like to do.  These walls are wood and they're milled with a board pattern on them that represents the boards put up to form the mold, so to speak, to hold concrete when it was poured.  After cutting notches in two of them for the trestle (per the instructions and templates) I sprayed them many times with a flat white primer.  All sides.  Many, many times.  Everytime I walked past them.  I wanted a good seal on them for the next step.

I took brown and black acrylics from the craft store and a lot of water to make a wash and started brushing the wash on the walls from the top down.  I'm not painting the walls, merely tinting the white paint that was previously applied.  I tried to keep the coats very thin.  I didn't want the wood to warp.  I let each coat dry and then applied another alternating between the colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814192920-3970792.jpeg)

I kept going until the I got a color on the walls that I was happy with.   :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814192920-40081737.jpeg)

There's a cardboard template in the kit that needs to be cut out and used to cut out two 'ramps' out of plywood that will be used to run the road from the upper level to the lower level.  I cut the pieces out and hot glued them into place (without burning myself Tom).   ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814192920-40092058.jpeg)

Next I cut the road out of the cardstock template making sure it was wide enough for my base.  You can see I had to cut it smidge wider than the printed outline.  That's covered in the instructions.  I hot glued that in place.  Caution - Hot glue is very unforgiving.  You need to get it postioned where you want it on the first shot.  You won't be moving it around if you get it wrong.   :o   
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814192920-40102121.jpeg)

Next I glued the concrete retaining walls and stone wall in place (still using hot glue).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814192920-4011173.jpeg)

I took all the wood that makes up the trestle and the ties and roughed it up with my favorite wire brush I picked up from the welding section at Home Depot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193044-40121285.jpeg)

More in a few...

15 of the ties have to be cut into 30 short ties for on the trestle.  I did this using my handy dandy NWSL Chopper.  That is a razor blade and use I have cut myself on it in the past so I try to be very, very careful when i reach in there to remove the pieces I just cut.   :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193044-40131202.jpeg)

I dipped all the trestle parts in Hunterline Creosote Black stain and laid them out to dry.  Afterwards I drybushed them with an off white to bring out the grain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193044-4014503.jpeg)

I build two beams that make up the trestle.  Each consiste of three larger pieces glued together with some small spacers between them.  I put them in place over the span and a checked to see if they were too high or too low (All of this depends on how well the base was build and the notches in the concrete retaining walls were cut out.  I was close but mine were just a tick too tall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193045-40151399.jpeg)

Here's a top down view of the two beams in place.  I used a razor blade and removed paper thin chunks of wood from the bottom end of each until the tops sat flush with the upper level of the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193045-4016467.jpeg)

Here's what the notches looked like.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193221-40172386.jpeg)

And for some reason I took two pictures from the top and uploaded both so what the heck.  Here's another view of the same thing.   :P
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193221-40181493.jpeg)

More in a moment...

The beams have Nut, Bolt, Washer (NBW) castings that go on them.  Your choice whether you cut them off the sprue flush with the washer and simply glue them in place or drill a hole and glue them in the hole.  I prefer to drill a hole glue them into the hole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193221-4019413.jpeg)

With the beams glued in place so the center beam on each will be directly beneath a rail the next thing up is to glue the supports in place.  They're supposed to be 7/8" in from the retaining wall and I didn't have a ruler short enough to fit in their so I cut some pieces of blue painters tape to 7/8" and used them as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193221-40202210.jpeg)

Time to start bracing the walls!  Well, in my mind it is.  I'm going out of order from the instructions which would have you paint the walls next.  I prefer to brace them before I paint them.  I glue the bracing on longer than needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193222-4021306.jpeg)

I weigh the bracing down until the glue sets.  I have some marble blocks (parts of old trophies) on my bench that I use for this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193330-40221566.jpeg)

The bracing is cut to fit after the glue sets using a single edge razor blade (or a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193330-40231121.jpeg)

Next I stained all the stripwood in my little bathtub.  I used Hunterline Light Gray for the stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193330-40241512.jpeg)

That's it for now.  More soon I hope.   :D

Bob,

Looking fantastic my friend. I need to make one of those AI tubes. Many thumbs up here.

Tom

Mr. Bob
Lot of work on this one. Ditto on the AI tube, that comes in handy I bet. Carry on my friend, looking very good!!

Bill

Very nice work. Very interesting steps too...Nothing I've seen


John

Bob

The build is going great - stopping by every day to see your progress.  Thanks,

Bob, Great work thus far on one of my favorite FSM kits.  Also really appreciate all the detail and tips/techniques that you include in your build threads.  Between George's instructions and your insights and pictures, you are providing a master's class in how to build craftsman kits !!!
Like the others I really like your "A&I Bathtub".  Can you provide a little more detail on this, mostly, how are the ends attached (just dry fit or epoxied on?) and how do you drain/save the remaining A&I after use ??
Thanks Bob, and I'll be following along with your build ...
Happy Modeling,
--Paul

Always a pleasure to follow your progress on a kit.
YOu concrete wall look very good, it seems to be an interesting technic for paint them without old concrete paint or unbleached titanium white.
And I must build an AI tube too for my Twin mills kit....
Eric Québec city

Looking good so far Bob.....

Hi Tom, Bill, John, John, Paul, Eric and Greg,

Thanks for the wonderful comments and feedback.  I really appreciate everyone following along.

The A&I bathtub is a real timesaver when you have to do a lot of strip wood.  I picked the idea up from Jack (jerseymercantile) when I did my FOS Engine House at Caldwell Junction (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=193.0) build.  It works better than the plastic tray I tried using in that build which was a tip I picked up from the FOS DVD Tips for Building Contest Quality Structures (http://foslimited.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=4).  I had a hard time emptying the tray back into the bottle when I was finished.

My version of the bathtub is made up of a 14" long piece of 2 1/2" PCV and two caps.  I figured out how much of the pipe the caps covered and cut an opening into the PVC.  I used a hacksaw to make the cross cuts and sabre saw for the length wise cuts.  Boy did that create a mess.  I used PVC cement to glue the caps on but first I drilled a hole in the center of one cap to use as a drain.  I took a few scraps of wood I had and knocked together a simple little cradle to place it on. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-40381243.jpeg)

I had all sorts of good intentions of fastening a rubber or plastic hose in the end with the hole to make it easier to pour the contents back into a bottle but in the end I simply took a piece of double side foam and cut a square of it bigger than the bottle opening with a smaller square opening in the center and stuck that around the hole.  When I go to empty it the foam provides enough of a seal to pour the contents back into the bottle.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-4045851.jpeg)

Thanks again for the comments!     

Very clever Bob, and thanks so much for the information on your A&I Bathtub !!!
Looks like I am going to have to build a tub for my use as well ...
Much appreciated, and I'll be following along with the rest of your Fox Run adventure ...
Happy Modeling,
--Paul

Quote from: ReadingBob on August 23, 2014, 11:20:36 AM
Hi Tom, Bill, John, John, Paul, Eric and Greg,

Thanks for the wonderful comments and feedback.  I really appreciate everyone following along.

The A&I bathtub is a real timesaver when you have to do a lot of strip wood.  I picked the idea up from Jack (jerseymercantile) when I did my FOS Engine House at Caldwell Junction (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=193.0) build.  It works better than the plastic tray I tried using in that build which was a tip I picked up from the FOS DVD Tips for Building Contest Quality Structures (http://foslimited.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=4).  I had a hard time emptying the tray back into the bottle when I was finished.

My version of the bathtub is made up of a 14" long piece of 2 1/2" PCV and two caps.  I figured out how much of the pipe the caps covered and cut an opening into the PVC.  I used a hacksaw to make the cross cuts and sabre saw for the length wise cuts.  Boy did that create a mess.  I used PVC cement to glue the caps on but first I drilled a hole in the center of one cap to use as a drain.  I took a few scraps of wood I had and knocked together a simple little cradle to place it on. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-40381243.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-40381243.jpeg)

I had all sorts of good intentions of fastening a rubber or plastic hose in the end with the hole to make it easier to pour the contents back into a bottle but in the end I simply took a piece of double side foam and cut a square of it bigger than the bottle opening with a smaller square opening in the center and stuck that around the hole.  When I go to empty it the foam provides enough of a seal to pour the contents back into the bottle.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-4045851.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230814110943-4045851.jpeg)

Thanks again for the comments!     

Great idea - I'm already gathering the stuff together to build one!  Thanks again Bob.

Awesome, Bob!

Lots to learn, and fun watching (also one of my) favourite FSM kits come together.  Its one I always watch on ebay in the hope it falls within my budget.  I would love to put a river to the left where the road dips down.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi Paul, John and Mark,

Thanks for the comments.   :D  I found that the A&I bath tub really speeds up the process of staining the strip wood that comes in a kit.  I think it's very well worth the time, effort and minimal cost to make one.   :D

I've been working on the walls this weekend.  Staining and painting them.  Today I hope to add the nail holes, splinter some boards, etc. and maybe even get to the point where I add windows and doors.  I love this part of the build...when things start to come together.   ;D

Neat gadget Bob.....thanks.  8)

Thanks Mark and Greg!

Here's a bit of an update.  I had a busy weekend.  Hopefully things will soon start to come together.  With this kit there are a lot of things that have to come together too.   :D

I gave all the castings a coat of A&I.  When you see it puddle up, like it is on the edge of the door frames and windows, go back over the pieces with your brush when it's empty rather than loaded with A&I to break up the puddles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190814193330-4025144.jpeg)

I brush painted all the walls (exterior only) with the same Hunterline Light Gray stain that I previously stained the strip wood with.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181138-4097191.jpeg)

Next I painted the interior of all the walls Grimy Black.  There's a lot of walls. 
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181139-4098964.jpeg)

The walls for the mill were then painted with Floquil Earth.  Straight up, no thinning.  I gave them one coat but not too heavy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181139-4099693.jpeg)

The shed/scale house walls were painted with Floquil Boxcar Red.  This time I did dip the brush in thinner before dipping it in the paint which turned the paint into a stain.  After the walls dried I compared them to the window/door castings which were also painted the same color.  The picture below doesn't show it but there was quite a bit of difference between the two with the walls be much lighter than the castings so I went back over them a second time to get a closer match. 
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181139-4100498.jpeg)

Next up I gave all the walls a light tapping with a sponge that was dipped in gray paint and then most of the paint was removed from it.  This gives a bit of peeling paint effect and makes it appear that some of the undercoat (primer) is showing through where the top coat has peeled away.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181139-41011619.jpeg)

More in a moment...

Now it's time to start detailing the walls.  I added nail holes using a steel ruler and a ponce wheel.  The templates give you a nice idea of where to add them which makes the job go a little bit faster.  Oops..I seem to have lost my picture of that step.  Sorry!

After the nail holes were added I used a chisel blade to 'lift' some of the clapboards.  Some I just lifted, a few I slide the blade under the siding and twisted it to break a small piece of the clapboard off.  Just be careful the blade doesn't slip and dig into a finger.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181256-41021868.jpeg)

I started gluing doors and window castings in place.  I just use the same Pink Flamingo glue I use for gluing the trim on for this step.  It holds well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181256-41032270.jpeg)

While I was gluing the doors and windows in place I had one of these moments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181256-41042038.jpeg)

I realized a hole I had previously drilled in the wall for the grain pipe was in the wrong spot.  How the heck did I do that?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181256-41051915.jpeg)

What to do?  What to do?  Leave the hole where it was and have the grain pipe interfere with roof that goes over the doorway?  Drill it in the correct place and cover up the mistake some how?  Hmmm...  I pondered this one for a few days and then I decide to do a graft.  I cut out a section of the wall over to where the hole should have been in the first place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814181256-4106292.jpeg)

I stole a small section from one of the end walls, where it won't be visible anyway, and grafted it into place and then drilled the hole in the correct location.  The hole covers up where the seam would have been in the graft and the rest fit in there pretty well.  Now nobody will know of my mistake.  Well, except for you all.  Don't tell anyone.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-260814182749.jpeg)

Whew! Glad that worked.  I strongly recommend you drill the hole in the right place the first time.   :D

That's it for now.  Back to adding doors and windows.  Then it's on to glazing and shades followed by signs.  Progress!

As always thanks for following along.   :D

Nice! What problem?

what a great reparation..... Invisible.
Very nice as usuale.
Eric Québec city

  Now nobody will know of my mistake. 
I Know, I Know!!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Great save Bob.....

Hi Bob:

You could always cover it up with a rusted corrugated wall patch.

Karl

Quote from: postalkarl on August 27, 2014, 11:15:10 AM
Hi Bob:

You could always cover it up with a rusted corrugated wall patch.

Karl

Thanks John, Eric, Greg, Gnat and Karl!

I considered doing a wall patch like that Karl but for some reason it didn't appeal to me so I decided to repair it the way I did.   :D

Great stuff Bob , thanks for showing everything so detailed.

Quote from: Janbouli on August 27, 2014, 02:58:28 PM
Great stuff Bob , thanks for showing everything so detailed.

My pleasure Jan.  Thanks for following along.  Time for an update!

For the 'glass' in the windows I opted to use the acetate that came with the kit rather than Krystal Klear, my glazing material of choice.  I did, however, use the Kystal Klear as a glue to glue the glazing in place.  I cut the acetate to fit just inside the opening and lined the edge of the opening with Krystal Klear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914183755-41241352.jpeg)

I cleaned the acetate (with my t-shirt  ::)  ) to remove any finger prints and then I carefully postioned the acetate in place in the opening with a pair of tweezers.  After all of the windows were installed I painted (per the instructions) the inside of the windows with Floquil Flat Finish to dull them down and give them a dirty look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914183756-41321099.jpeg)

I finished the windows by adding blinds to them.  This is simply a sheet of white paper from the printer that I painted Depot Buff and cut into strips slightly wider than the window openings.  I cut them to various lengths to represent blinds that are partially open and then glue them directly to the wall using plain on white glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914183756-41331668.jpeg)

After adding a few small signs it's finally time to start gluing some walls together!   :D   I glued a front wall to a side wall to make a half of the structure.  I used clamps (though not as many as Mark would  :D  ) and a jig to keep everything square and tight.  I did the same for the other two walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914183756-4134484.jpeg)

When the glue dried on the two halves I took them and glued them together again using the jig, clamps and this time my fingers to keep things tight and square while the glue set (I'm wathcing TV while I do this so holding the structure until the glue grabs is no big deal).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914183756-4135738.jpeg)

It's time to start cutting out the roof pieces from the card stock.  I figured this would be a good time to put a fresh blade in the X-Acto knife too.  I don't try to cut through the card stock on one pass.  I take three, four or more passes (using a steel ruler as a guide) to cut through the card stock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184051-413689.jpeg)

More in a moment... 8)

After the roof was cut off I flipped it over and used a pencil and the opening in the card stock to mark off where the rafter tails will go.  Bear in mind the marking are printed on the top of the card and will be shingled over so you need to do this step before you shingle and glue the roof in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184051-4137457.jpeg)

I'm only deviating slighly from the instructions when it comes to attaching the shingles (Campbell's).  In the instructions George mentions squeezing out a puddle of white glue and using a pencil to put a thin line on the card stock roof to glue the shingles in place.  I used white glue and applied it straight from the bottle in as thin a bead as I could to just the top edge of the shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184051-4138811.jpeg)

I then ran the strip of shingles between my finger and thumb to flatten out/thin out the bead of glue and push the excess off the top of strip onto my fingers.  The big thing is to avoid getting glue on the individual shingles themselves.  You want to be able to lift some of them up later on so they don't lay flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184052-4139894.jpeg)

I quickly wiped the excess glue off of my fingers and then positioned the shingles in place on the cardstock using the lines as a guide.  Naturally you start at the bottom and work your way up.  Repeat these steps what seems like a gazillion times until the both sides of the roof are covered in shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184052-41401221.jpeg)

After the roof is completely shingled I weighed it down under a marble block to keep it flat while the glue dried and then, afterwards, flipped it over and trimmed the excess shingles (I tore the strips slightly longer than needed and let them hang over both ends when I glued them in place) off using a straight edge and my trusty X-Acto knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184415-4141600.jpeg)

I added some bracing to the underside of the roof, per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184415-41421168.jpeg)

More in a moment... 8)

You can't see it here but I compared the roof the structure and measure how much wide the roof was than the structure, divided that amount in half and then drew guidelines on both sides of the underside of the roof so I could center the roof on the structure when I glued it in place.  You can also simply eyeball it.   :D   I ran a bead of glue around the structure and positioned the roof in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184415-4143643.jpeg)

I don't have any fancy sand bags or contraptions to hold the roof in place while the glue sets so I simply used my fingers and watched a little more TV.  The Pink Famingo Glue takes hold pretty quick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184415-41441601.jpeg)

The roof was then painted with Floquil Earth.  After the paint dried it was given two applications of my Alcohol and Ink mix and, after each of those dried, drybushed with an off white.  The rafter tails were then installed, trimmed to fit with rail nippers and the ends were touched up with the same Hunterline stain I had dipped the strip wood in earlier.

Final picture for today.  I built the cupola next using the same techniques.  Before installing it on the peak of the roof, however, I marked where it was going to go and painted that area with a flat black paint (Polly Scale Grimy Black in this case).  This was a good tip from the instructions.  You don't want to look in the windows of the dormer and see the shingled roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-020914184415-41451002.jpeg)

That's all for now!  More as I make some progress.  Thanks for following along.

It's starting to look like there's a building in that kit..... ;D

Looking great, Bob!

Cheers, Mark.

Very Nice...
Thanks to take time to share it with us.
Eric Québec city...... Lost in Kitchen Renovation......

Greg, Mark and Eric,

Thanks for following along and the comments.  Much appreciated.

All the wood walls for the structures are painted, weathered, have doors and windows installed, etc.  With those prepped and all of the detail castings painted I hope to able to move along pretty quickly now, time permitting.   :D   

Bob,

You are doing an excellent tutorial and build on the kit. I'll be most happy when I can get back to building. Many thumbs up on this one Reading Bob.

Tom ;D

Quote from: ACL1504 on September 05, 2014, 09:43:17 AM
Bob,

You are doing an excellent tutorial and build on the kit. I'll be most happy when I can get back to building. Many thumbs up on this one Reading Bob.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom.  We'll all be happy when you get back into structure building mode too.  Not that we aren't enjoying the layout building mode.  It's fun to watch that come together but it'll be even nicer when you can start adding structures and scenery to it. 

Hi Bob:

Roof looks great. You should try 3M 465 tape instead of glue. Takes half the time and no glue mess.

Keep the photos coming.

Karl

Thanks Karl.  I do use transfer tape quite a bit but didn't bother with it on this one.

Okay, back at it.   :D  It's starting to take shape.

The dormer on the main mill is an interesting little feature.  It's made up of three walls which were first glued together at 90 degree angles and then glued into position centered under the notch on the main roof.  I just held it in place until the glue set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095209-42212127.jpeg)

The dormer roof is the only roof (so far) that required adding the rafter tails prior to installing the roof.  You can imagine how hard it would be to glue these in place after this particular roof was installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095209-42621146.jpeg)

Trimming the rafter tails to length required a little guess work.  Again, this is done prior to installing the roof so you simply have to judge the correct angle to cut them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095209-42631348.jpeg)

Now the roof can be glued into place.  I just held it down with my fingers until the glue set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095209-426470.jpeg)

I glued a strip of paper (from a brown paper bag - more on that in the next picture) to the peak of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095209-42652074.jpeg)

I keep a pack of brown paper lunch bags handy for various uses besides lunch.   :D  I tape one to the edge of my work bench and use it as a little garbage bag.  For 1:1 scale projects I tape them (using painters tape) to the wall just beneath where I'm going to drill a hole to catch the debris.  Most importantly I cut a section from the folded edge, like shown in the picture, to use for the peak of the roof when I'm building a model. 
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095316.jpeg)

Continued in a moment...

I take the piece I cut from the bag and trim it to the correct width using a straight edge and an X-Acto knife.  Since it's pre-folded I divide the width I need by 1/2 and measure that distance in from the fold.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095527-42681057.jpeg)

And here's a strip being added to the peak of the entryway shelter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095527-4269646.jpeg)

I added the remaining roof details and pitch around them to finish up the bulk of the first part of the main structure.  Now it's time to glue it to the base.  Prior to gluing it down I marked off where the structures will go and cut openings the base so I could access the structures from beneath to add lighting.  Normally I try to make the roofs removable so I can add lighting or access it for repair purposes but the roof on this one was just too complex to make that an option.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095528-42702298.jpeg)

And now it's glued in place over the opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095528-42712114.jpeg)

The loading dock is next up.  This is a delicate little assembly build directly over the template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095746-42722167.jpeg)

Before removing it from the template the front and back substructure need to be marked where the supports for the floor will go.  I used a mechanical pencil for this (but had trouble seeing the markings later on when I went to add the supports  ::) ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095746-4273344.jpeg)

More in a moment...

Like I mentioned, I had a hard time seeing my pencil markings when I added the supports.  The big thing is to get them evenly spaced and standing upright.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095747-42741704.jpeg)

Before adding the floor boards the assembly is glued into place.  After gluing it into place I added dirt and debris to the area underneath and glued that in place by first wetting it with a 50/50 mixture of clear alcohol and water and then a thinned out white glue mix (3 parts water to 1 part white glue).  Once that dries I'll go back and add the floor boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095747-42751712.jpeg)

Jumping ahead to the next structure while the dirt dries I started working on what I consider to be the signature sign for this mill.  I rubbed it (top to bottom) with some fine steel wool to tone it down a bit (the instructions call for using fine sandpaper for this step).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095748-4276387.jpeg)

I then cut the sign out (trimmed off the white) and toned it down with my A&I mix.  My mix is a little dark so I dipped my brush in straight A before dipping it the A&I to thin it out a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-140914095825.jpeg)

And that brings us up to date.  Later on today I'll add the sign to the wall and finish up the loading dock, stairs and canopies over the doors on the main structure.

Thanks for following along.   :D 

Looking fantastic, Bob!

I've never thought of gluing down the subfloor of my decks before adding the decking.  I must try that!

Cheers, Mark.

Look forward to seeing it up close and personal on Friday Bob!  :)

Bob

Looks great and once again your build threads are the best.

Bob,

All thumbs up from here.  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Tom ;D

This has been an excellent tutorial, thanks for taking the time to do photos, etc.

dave

Great build as always Bob. I wish I could bind your well-detailed threads into a high-gloss chapter book and keep it as a reference tool!


Everytime I see that cool metal glue dispenser tip, I vow to get one, then life takes me away. Looks like a great little tool.


John

Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 15, 2014, 01:59:59 AM
Looking fantastic, Bob!

I've never thought of gluing down the subfloor of my decks before adding the decking.  I must try that!

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks for the kind comments Mark.  I was just following along with the recommendation in the instructions regarding gluing the subfloor down before adding the decking.  It did make it a bit easier to get dirt under there.   :D

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 15, 2014, 08:43:22 AM
Look forward to seeing it up close and personal on Friday Bob!  :)

Thanks Greg!  Yep, we'll swing by my place and you can see how big this diorama really is.   :o

Quote from: S&S RR on September 15, 2014, 09:34:20 AM
Bob

Looks great and once again your build threads are the best.

Thanks John!  I really appreciate your following along and commenting.  I love sharing builds just to give others a sense for what building a particular kit entails.  Of course these yellow boxes are my all time favorites (no offence to all the other wonderful kit manufacturers out there).   :D

Quote from: ACL1504 on September 15, 2014, 12:21:19 PM
Bob,

All thumbs up from here.  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom!  I can't wait until we can haul this puppy up to the EXPO next March.  Of course I have to finish it first.   :D

Quote from: Cuse on September 16, 2014, 07:13:15 AM
Great build as always Bob. I wish I could bind your well-detailed threads into a high-gloss chapter book and keep it as a reference tool!


Everytime I see that cool metal glue dispenser tip, I vow to get one, then life takes me away. Looks like a great little tool.


John

Thanks John!  We need to get together one of these days when you get a break.  We're taking a trip to the BLI store in Ormond Beach on Friday if you're interested/available.   :D   

Hi Bob:

Looks great. Glad to see you have te base all made up. Will be following along.

Karl

Quote from: ReadingBob on September 16, 2014, 07:37:45 AM

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 15, 2014, 08:43:22 AM
Look forward to seeing it up close and personal on Friday Bob!  :)

Thanks Greg!  Yep, we'll swing by my place and you can see how big this diorama really is.   :o

Wonderful.....I'll look forward to Friday.  :)

Bob
It looks awesome
Sorry have posted in awhile been swamped at work
Can't wait to set into layout
Thanks

Quote from: postalkarl on September 16, 2014, 07:55:47 AM
Hi Bob:

Looks great. Glad to see you have te base all made up. Will be following along.

Karl

Thanks Karl!  Much appreciated.

The base was always one of those things I least looked forward to making up.  Since I started using GatorFoam I don't mind it at all any more. 

Quote from: robertseckler on September 17, 2014, 08:34:01 PM
Bob
It looks awesome
Sorry have posted in awhile been swamped at work
Can't wait to set into layout
Thanks

Hi Robert,

Thanks for the kind words.  I'm really enjoying this build.  It's really an interesting set of structures.  I'm certainly happy it'll find it's way to nice spot on a great layout.   :D

Hi Bob.....any news on how the loco you got fixed at BLI runs?

Bob, you are doing this kit great justice.  It's easy to see why you are enjoying it!  I am positively green with envy.  HO gaugers always get the neatest kits!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 23, 2014, 03:05:43 PM
Hi Bob.....any news on how the loco you got fixed at BLI runs? 

Li'l Bobby is plannin' another test around the ovalhicks before he reports!!  ;D ;D ;D
But without no nuts under the rails!!!!  ::) ::) ::)

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 23, 2014, 03:05:43 PM
Hi Bob.....any news on how the loco you got fixed at BLI runs?

To be honest I haven't even opened the box to make sure it's inside.   :-[   I need to get it out and find some track to run it on.   :D

Quote from: DACS on September 23, 2014, 03:58:49 PM
Bob, you are doing this kit great justice.  It's easy to see why you are enjoying it!  I am positively green with envy.  HO gaugers always get the neatest kits!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Hi Dave,

Thanks for compliment.  I really appreciate it!  I've seen a few neat kits in other scales but you're right, HO does seem to have the lions share of them.  Lucky for me.   :D   Building an FSM kit is like taking an advanced structure building class thanks to the great instructions that are included in the kit.

Quote from: gnatshop on September 23, 2014, 07:14:15 PM

Quote from: GPdemayo on September 23, 2014, 03:05:43 PM
Hi Bob.....any news on how the loco you got fixed at BLI runs? 

Li'l Bobby is plannin' another test around the ovalhicks before he reports!!  ;D ;D ;D
But without no nuts under the rails!!!!  ::) ::) ::)

I'm might just do that Gnat.  It seems like that ovalix is the ulitmate test track.   :D 

(By the way Tom - they said they replaced the decoder not the motor.  That's where the magic smoke escaped from.)

Bob,

Bring it on down! The ovalix is a great test for all locos. And, I told you I smelled "a burn"!


Tom ;D

Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2014, 08:10:14 AM
Bob,

Bring it on down! The ovalix is a great test for all locos. And, I told you I smelled "a burn"!


Tom ;D

I'll definitely do that Tom.  The ovalix a great place for a test run.   :D

Now, back to the build.  I followed the instructions in the kit for mounting the sign.  Some of this was new to me so I wanted to give it a shot.   :D 

After the A&I wash on the sign dried it was time to glue the sign to the wall.  Using a pencil I marked where I wanted to position the sign and then smeared full strength Elmer's White Glue over the back of the sign with my finger.  Naturally you have to be careful to get all the glue off of your fingers before you start handling the sign.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014174949-45231664.jpeg) 

Using tweezers to pick up the sign and my pencil marks as a guide I carefully positioned it on the wall.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014174949-4536842.jpeg)

I pressed the sign down and then let it set for a few minutes.  Now, for the part that's new to me.  Using a ruler and an X-Acto knife with a new blade in the handle I very carefully cut the sign along the edge of each clapboard essentially cutting it into tiny strips.  When I was done I pressed it down again with my finger.  I didn't use too much glue so I had no excessive ooze out when I did this.   :D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014174949-45372330.jpeg)

After everything dried I used my ponce wheel and a ruler I added rows of nail holes over the sign.  I also pried up some of the clapboards under the sign to make them look loose.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014174950-4538837.jpeg)

The final step was to very lightly dry brush the sign with the same off white I used for everything else.  Here's the finished sign.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014174950-4539820.jpeg)

Next it was time to do the roof for this part of the structure.  This next step is something I don't think I've ever covered in a build thread and only done a few times but it adds a ton of character to a structure.  It's a way to give the roof a sag.  This is totally optional but I really like the effect.  The roof card indicates a section at the peak that can be cut out (free hand) to get this effect.  If you don't want the effect simply don't cut out the section.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014175124-45402045.jpeg)

More in a moment...

After the roof card was cut out I applied the roofing material.  There are a couple of areas where the rolled roofing is missing and the shingles beneath are exposed so you start by adding the shingles to those areas first.  After painting and finishing them I glued the rolled roofing in place and then added a bunch of 'patches'.  I also cut out the same gap in the rolled roofing that I did in the roof card.  After the roofing material was applied I lined both edges of the gap with glue, positioned the roof in place (not glued to the structure) and then pinched the gap closed with my fingers and held it until the glue set.  The rest of the roof (rafter tails, pitch, details, etc.) was finished as normal.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014175124-45411952.jpeg)

Before the details were added I took this picture to show the sag in the roof.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-011014175125-45421164.jpeg)

That's all the pictures I have for now.  The main structure has been completed and detailed.  Only a little touch up and some powders remains to be added to it.  I'll start working on the supporting structures next and then the scenery. 

Thanks again for following along!   ;D 

Fantastic build Bob, I've very much enjoyed the adventure and look forward to the rest of the trip! ;D ;D ;D

Tom ;D

Very well done. This struture have a lot of character. Very interesting technic on the sign, first time I see that, I must try it, seems to add a lot too...
Eric Québec city

This build is looking great! I also really like the sign technique and will be giving it a try.

   Simply beautiful 
  Another great build Bob.
  Sam

Hik Bob:

Looks great so far. I like the colors. Nice job on the sign.

Karl

After traveling around the east over the last weeks I now fully understand that you eastern modelers really have that regional "look" nailed.

Very cool.

Thanx
Bob

That is one sweet looking build. I don't know if my eyeballs could handle anything like that any more.

I like that technique on the sign you used Bob.  It's all coming together nicely.  Any more progress photos?

Thanks Tom, Eric, John, Sam, Karl, Bob, Chet and Mark (whew!) for the kind comments and following along.  Here's a few shots of the main structure as it currently sits.  I've added most of the details (except for the pigeons) and all that remains is some touch up with weathering powders and flat finish.  I'm working on the surrounding structures but before they get glued to the base I'll have to pave the streets.   :D  More on that to come (soon I hope).

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152404-4732873.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152405-47331140.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152405-47349.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152405-47351043.jpeg)

Very nice! Can't wait to see it with all the details.

Great build, but, dam, the pictures reminded me of how much I miss that purty green grass and trees
in Floridy!!  8) 8) 8)

We mowed the yard today (probably for the last time this year), so I'll think about you when you're
mowing on Christmas day!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Beautiful build Bob, Robert is really going to love this one.

Tom ;D

Great work as always. Love the colors.


John

Looks great Bob......

What a beautiful build ! Once again a great thread with loads of info. Thanks Bob

Hi Bob:

Very well done. Nice and subtle. Like the coloring.

Karl

Quote from: gnatshop on October 10, 2014, 07:54:59 PM
Great build, but, dam, the pictures reminded me of how much I miss that purty green grass and trees
in Floridy!!  8) 8) 8)

We mowed the yard today (probably for the last time this year), so I'll think about you when you're
mowing on Christmas day!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Gman,

You are most welcome to come visit and I'll let you cut my grass when you get here.


Tom ;D

Hi John, Gnat, Tom, Cuse, Ken and Karl,

Thanks for the kind comments.  I'm busy working on the supporting structures and will post an update on them soon.  I won't go into quite as much detail on them because some of the construction was done at the same time the main stucture was being built and would just be a rehash of the same steps anyway.  If I come across something previously uncovered I'll try to include a step by step.   :D

Thanks for the comment on the colors Karl.  It's hard to go wrong when you use the colors George did.   :D

Bob, I can't really add much to all the great comment's, but It dose look fantastic my friend. I like the way the sagging roof turned out.

Bill

Yeowza!  Fantastic!

Quote from: ACL1504 on October 13, 2014, 07:58:08 AM

Quote from: gnatshop on October 10, 2014, 07:54:59 PM
Great build, but, dam, the pictures reminded me of how much I miss that purty green grass and trees
in Floridy!!  8) 8) 8)
We mowed the yard today (probably for the last time this year), so I'll think about you when you're
mowing on Christmas day!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Gman,
You are most welcome to come visit and I'll let you cut my grass when you get here.
Tom ;D   

Bob, I ain't answerin' that Floridy Cracker 'almost ex-lawman'!!
But you can pass on an answer - "It'll snow in Floridy before I mow his yard!  I might lay in
his pool and watch him, though!!" 
I know that's what the Babe does!!!   ;D ;D ;D

Quote from: gnatshop on October 14, 2014, 09:55:46 PM

Quote from: ACL1504 on October 13, 2014, 07:58:08 AM

Quote from: gnatshop on October 10, 2014, 07:54:59 PM
Great build, but, dam, the pictures reminded me of how much I miss that purty green grass and trees
in Floridy!!  8) 8) 8)
We mowed the yard today (probably for the last time this year), so I'll think about you when you're
mowing on Christmas day!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Gman,
You are most welcome to come visit and I'll let you cut my grass when you get here.
Tom ;D   

Bob, I ain't answerin' that Floridy Cracker 'almost ex-lawman'!!
But you can pass on an answer - "It'll snow in Floridy before I mow his yard!  I might lay in
his pool and watch him, though!!" 
I know that's what the Babe does!!!   ;D ;D ;D

Gee, Bob, looks like you have a new lawn service from Gnat:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.c.photoshelter.com%2Fimg-get%2FI0000XzNY.usjXhE%2Fs%2F750%2FFlorida-Snow-01-mw-021210.jpg&hash=b39d1398b944ce2f50234c826e4491e75621c08c)


Of course, the problem now is getting to deliver on that promise!
dave
(p.s. blame global climate change.)

Don't worry Bob.....I've got plenty of wood for the fireplace and with your wine stash, we'll make it thru the winter!  ;D

Bob, if you could set up the photo so there are no 1:1 evidence to be seen, with the exception of some distant trees and sky, that would pass as a 1:1 structure.
Gawgious, simply gawgious!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Quote from: DACS on October 15, 2014, 09:25:04 AM
Bob, if you could set up the photo so there are no 1:1 evidence to be seen, with the exception of some distant trees and sky, that would pass as a 1:1 structure.
Gawgious, simply gawgious!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle

Thanks for the wonderful (as well as funny) Bill, LongHornCaddy, Gnat, Dave, Greg and Dave!  I think Dave's comment that it might pass for a 1:1 structure might be the Holy Grail of compliments.   :D

Sorry there hasn't been an update for quite some time now.  I've been working on this but some of the stuff I've been doing with the secondary structures would be a repeat of the stuff from the main structure so I thought I'd skip most of that.  But now might be a good time to bring everybody current on the build.

I built the smaller structure that sits off to the side of the main structure.  I started out with the idea that the roof would be removable on this one so I could access the interior from above to work on the lights.  I made some roof trusses and glued them into position where they'd be just inside the end walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152405-47361760.jpeg)

The roof on this structure is covered with corrugated aluminum panels.  This time around I was able to us the 3M Transfer Tape to attaché the panels.  You apply the tape, peel away the backing and what you're left with is a roof with the adhesive material attached to it. (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152532-4737596.jpeg)

It's very easy to add the panels to the sticky roof.  I primed them first, added them to the roof and finished them later by painting them a concrete color and then adding several layers of rust powders and Dullcoat.  The fact that the roof was removable at this point made it easier to do that without fear of getting anything on the structure itself.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-101014152532-4738984.jpeg)

The scale house walls were glued together and then the concrete foundation was glued on the bottom.  Flush with the back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111014155436.jpeg)

This structure has awnings that go over some of the windows.  They're printed on card stock.  First I scribe the lines that needed to be folded (using care to not cut all the way through) and then I cut them out.

Then the awnings were braced on the underside using strip wood.  This won't be visible when they're attached to the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014165836-48711016.jpeg)

Oops...gotta run to the store.  I'll finish posting my progress report later today (I hope).  I have more done than what's shown here.  Thanks for following along.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014165835-48701963.jpeg)

Looking good Bobby, looking very good.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom!  Back from the store so I'll resume posting.   :D

I added a little glue along the side of bracing and folded up (I guess that technically down) the sides of the awning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014165836-4872751.jpeg)

Then I held it the sides in place until the glue started to set.  There are way more awnings printed on the sheet then you need for the kit which is nice.  I'll save the rest for something else.  After the glue dried I filled in the edges (where I scribed them so they'd fold down, with a little white glue and let that dry.  Then I painted them Coach Green, weathered them and glued them into place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014165836-4873422.jpeg)

Next up was the shed that attaches to the rear of the supply structure/scale house.  The three walls were built directly on the templates by gluing down the main braces with the tiniest spot of white glue I that would hold them in place during construction.  A single edge razor blade slide under them lifted them off the template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014165836-4874834.jpeg)

A few of the pieces along the top were cut longer than necessary and trimmed to fit after the fact using a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014170015-4875799.jpeg)

The outside of the three walls were painted and weather to match the structure (Box Car Red) and then glued together.  This makes for a very fragile little structure until the roof is glued into place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014170015-48761645.jpeg)

The roof for the shed has to have a notch cut into it to fit around the smokestack as shown in the picture.  I marked the location where the notch was needed cut it and test fitted the piece in place before applying the rolled roofing material and gluing the roof in place.  Notice the two support wires from the smokestack to the roof?  They foiled my plan to keep that main roof removable.  It was handy, however, to have the roof removable while I was painting it and applying the rust colored powders.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014170015-4877664.jpeg)

More in a moment...

I can't recall why I took this picture.  I guess it was to show the bracing for the lower roof that gets applied to the front of the shed.  The lower roof is covered in corrugated panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221014170016-4878165.jpeg)

There's another shed that goes on the lower level behind the trestle.  This one is made out of cardstock.  I cut it out using an X-Acto and a steel ruler.  First the opening for the window was cut out (and the window test fitted), then the edges that need to fold were scribed but not cut all the way through, then the entire section was cut out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102637-50152035.jpeg)

I added bracing to the interior per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102637-50371609.jpeg)

After the glue for the bracing set the walls were bent at 90 degree angles and glued in place to form the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102637-50381174.jpeg)

The structure was finished by painting it a similar color to the rolled roofing (the sides are supposed to be covered in rolled roofing), exterior bracing was added to cover the 'seams' of the rolled roofing to hold it in place, the doors, windows, door trim, posters, etc. were added.  I also constructed the outdoor workbench and shelter that also goes on the lower level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102638-5039891.jpeg)

Time to start on the roads.  I deviated from the instructions (and my normal M.O.) here and used something called Concrete Paving Material from the Arizona Mineral and Rock Company.  I started by pouring a little white glue into a container.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102638-5040592.jpeg)

More in a moment...

Then added an equal part of water.  I mixed the two together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102850-5041572.jpeg)

Then I poured some of the Concrete Paving Material into the thinned white glue mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102850-50421612.jpeg)

I mixed it up until I got a consistency that was good to work with (a little experimentation with this stuff is in order to find the consistency you like).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102850-50432062.jpeg)

Next I spread a little white glue over the area that was to be 'paved' using my finger (it ain't modeling if you ain't getting messy  :D ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114102850-50441735.jpeg)

Then I started spreading my paving material over the streets using an offset artists thingie (that's a technical term).  I tried to get the streets as smooth and level as I could.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114103145-50462496.jpeg)

This picture doesn't show it as well as I hoped it might but the road down the hills got a little bit 'wavy' when it dried.  It is, after all, heavy card stock so the watery paving material affected it somewhat.  Even if I had used what the instructions called for, drywall joint compound, the instructions warn that this would happen and subsequent coats might be needed to level it out.  So I added a second layer to fix the issue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114103145-50471467.jpeg)

More in a moment...

The next thing I tried was sanding the streets.  This lightened them up a bit as well as smoothed them out.  This stuff is tough when it's dry to I had to use a coarse sandpaper.  It does soften up though when it gets wet so there are different ways to work with the roads.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114103145-5048515.jpeg)

After the roads were in place and I was satisfied with how they looked I scribed in expansion joints with a X-Acto and a ruler.  The joints are 10' feet (HO Scale feet of course) a part.  Then I started adding the first layer of dirt, weeds and grass to small sections of the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-091114103145-504948.jpeg)

And that's where I'm at at the moment.  Working my way around the diorama adding dirt and weeds.   :D  This is when things really start to pop but it takes some time for the landscaping to dry.

Thanks for following along!

Bob,
Fantastic work on the main building!  But, I have really been waiting to see you build the red "barn".  It is one of my favorite buildings George has done.  It is so simple, yet the details like the arched window, and the sagging corrugated roof over the plain red walls, somehow strikes a special chord with me.  I really like the removable roof, looking forward to seeing it lighted up!  This update was certainly worth the wait!

Hi Bob:

Nice progress and it looks great. I love that little red building.

Karl

Bob

Looking great - can't wait to see this all detailed out.

Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 09, 2014, 05:54:26 PM
Bob,
Fantastic work on the main building!  But, I have really been waiting to see you build the red "barn".  It is one of my favorite buildings George has done.  It is so simple, yet the details like the arched window, and the sagging corrugated roof over the plain red walls, somehow strikes a special chord with me.  I really like the removable roof, looking forward to seeing it lighted up!  This update was certainly worth the wait!

Thanks Jerry!  I ended up gluing the removable roof on because of the guy wires for the smoke stack but I have a big enough opening underneath that I'll be able to get in there to add some lights.  Lighting will be one of the last things I do.   8)

Quote from: postalkarl on November 10, 2014, 07:49:26 AM
Hi Bob:

Nice progress and it looks great. I love that little red building.

Karl

Thanks Karl!  This is another gem from George for sure.   :D

Quote from: S&S RR on November 10, 2014, 08:32:42 AM
Bob

Looking great - can't wait to see this all detailed out.

Thanks John!  I'm kind of anxious too.   :D

Bob, you are definitely the king of SBS threads. I can't even imagine posting this many "real-size" photos on this forum. Great work and a terrific job of telling the story on how you did it. It helps when the audience can appreciate George's instructions, and I think most of these guys have built at least one of his kits.

Quote from: Mike Engler on November 15, 2014, 01:38:20 AM
Bob, you are definitely the king of SBS threads. I can't even imagine posting this many "real-size" photos on this forum. Great work and a terrific job of telling the story on how you did it. It helps when the audience can appreciate George's instructions, and I think most of these guys have built at least one of his kits.

Thanks Mike!  I really appreciate the kind comments.  I enjoy doing the build threads and they help keeps me focused on the project at hand.  I'm trying to get out of that nasty habit of starting something new before I finish what I'm currently working on.   :D 

For the few folks that haven't built an FSM kit George's instructions are so good they make you feel like George is sitting right next to you at the workbench guiding you through the build.   :D

Just a mini update.  This past weekend I worked on the fences.  There are two types of fences that need to be built.  One, as seen below, is built directly over the template.  I split/broke some boards as I added them but had to be a little careful because this fence has a lot of signs on it.  I didn't want a missing board (or half missing board) beneath a sign.   :)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161114135822-5077304.jpeg)

Here it is in place with the signs on it.  I still have more details to add around it.  More weeds and bushes, empty boxes, debris, etc.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161114135822-51552016.jpeg)

The other fence is a post and rail type fence.  This one is built in place rather than over the template.  I just eyeballed it and used the template as a guide.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-161114135823-51562291.jpeg)

Aside from that I worked on the second of five or six Jordon vehicles I plan on adding to the diorama.  I'm not going to cover building those.  They're nice little kits but they're a real challenge.   :D  I'm also waiting on some Tichy Track stops I ordered so I can add one to the end of the track and finish detailing that area before I add the telephone pole and power lines.

Thanks for checking in!

It is looking fantastic Bob. I can't wait to see it in virtual reality.

Tom ;D

Nicely done Bob..... 8)

Bob,
Love these photos that emphasize the level of detail you included such as the cluttered loading dock, the weeds under the loading dock, and the track weathering.  The board fence is a favorite, too. 

Thanks for the kind comments Tom, Greg and Jerry!   :D

Progress has been a little slow right now because I'm working on some Jordon vehicles and a Tichy Track Stop.  I'll post some photo's of the Track Stop when I get it finished and in place.  Then I can move on to the telephone pole and lines and final round of adding details.   :D

Looks Awesome Bob!! Would you use that pavement material again on your dioramas?

Thanks for sharing!

Alan

Quote from: nextceo on November 26, 2014, 09:00:46 AM
Looks Awesome Bob!! Would you use that pavement material again on your dioramas?

Thanks for sharing!

Alan

Thanks Alan!  I really appreciate the feedback.

Yes, I plan on using that paving material again.  I picked up some asphalt colored paving material too but haven't experimented with that yet.  They're a bit pricy, especially compared to drywall joint compound, but a little bit easier to work with and I like the way it turned out.  I haven't done much to it, aside from sanding, to alter the color or appearance.  I'm sure it'll take washes and powders just fine.     

Looking great Bob.  Thanks again for all of the photos and explanations as you're doing the build.  Very informative.

Very well done Bob!

Very detailed, so far. Nice work.

Mark, LHC and Andy,

Thanks for the nice comments and for following along!  Both are very much appreciated.   :D

Here's a mini-update.  I've been building some Jordon vehicles to place around the diorama and I'm not going to bore you with those builds because I can only do a passable job with them.  Instead, I thought I'd share building a Tichy Track Stop.   :D

Here's the contents of the package.  Each pack contains two track stops.  Even though I only need one right now I'm going to build both.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124546-54091399.jpeg)

I trim the pieces from the sprue using my handy dandy little sprue cutter.  Then I touch up any edges that need touching up with an emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124547-54102422.jpeg)

I start by gluing the two pieces (top and bottom) together that make up the I beams.  Just make sure they're lined up properly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124548-5411179.jpeg)

Next the head gets glued to the I beams at an angle.  The part is made to rest at an angle so it's not difficult to get it right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124548-54121771.jpeg)

After gluing the front support in place the only thing left to do is glue the sleepers in place.  (Note;  The instructions actually call for installing the sleepers in between the ties and then gluing the assembly in place but I prefer to build the whole unit first, then paint it and then install it in place).  This is mildly difficult because there's not a lot surface to surface area to glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124548-5413240.jpeg)

After both were assembled I airbrushed them first with Floquil Primer and then, after that had cured a few days, with Floquil CSX Yellow.  Next I mixed some Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna Model Masters Acrylics together to get a dark rust color and used a tiny piece of sponge to dab on a little bit of the rust colored mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124713-54141226.jpeg)

Final photo in a moment...

Okay, here's the track stop in place.  One thing I have left to add are the reinforcing plates (tiny little plates with nut, bolt, washers cast on to them) to the outside of the rails where the sleepers are.  To install the track stop I first put a few drops of rubbing alcohol on the ballast to loosen up the glue.  I also wanted to add another layer of texture to the siding so I sprinkled on some cinders, some dirt and some more ballast to partially cover the track.  Then I wetted the area down, added some thin white glue and water, placed some full strength white glue where the track stop was to sit, positioned it in place and let everything dry.  After that I started adding some weeds.  I still have some other debris to spread around but it's coming along.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071214124714-54151465.jpeg)

These are kind of delicate little assemblies so I wouldn't count on them stopping a car being pushed buy an HO Scale engine but I really like the look of them.   :D

Nice job on weathering the track bumper.

Alan

Quote from: nextceo on December 07, 2014, 02:18:30 PM
Nice job on weathering the track bumper.

Alan

Thanks Alan.  I forgot to mention that after I applied the rust colored paint I gave it the A&I treatment and followed that up with a spray of Dullcoat after it dried.  I opted to skip the dry brushing step to highlight things.  I didn't want to cover any of the rust.   :D

Bob,

  Did you ever post your "Final Photos" for this build?? If not, I would like to see them...


Thanks!
Alan

Quote from: nextceo on December 31, 2014, 12:09:46 AM
Bob,

  Did you ever post your "Final Photos" for this build?? If not, I would like to see them...


Thanks!
Alan

Hi Alan,

Thanks for checking in.  I haven't quite finished this yet but when I do I'll post some pictures.  I've been working on some Jordon vehicles to place around the structure.  These were kits I had on the shelf.  They're not the correct era for Robert's layout so he can pluck them off and replace them with something more appropriate.  I just wanted to see it with some cars, tractors and pickup trucks sitting around it.   :D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-311214063020.jpeg)

I haven't (and probably never will) mastered building cars and trucks.  Especially these little Jordon kits.  They're great but I pull out what's left of my hair when I build them.   ;D

Thanks again for checking in.   :)

Yeah, I agree with your statement on the Jordans. I was building the Jordan's 1940 Sedan last night and I couldn't get the hood and the front grill to fit correctly so I threw it in the garbage. I will never buy that kit again. I have some Sylvans I'm building that are much more enjoyable to put together.

Thanks for sharing the pictures of the cars...
Alan

Jordans, you either love them or hate them.

Jaime

Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 31, 2014, 08:56:24 AM
Jordans, you either love them or hate them.

Jaime

Or give them to someone ELSE!  :P

Yes...give them to someone else!!


John  ;D

Sounds like sound advice!

Tom ;D

The first thing I've learn about Jardan Kit is : don't follow the instruction...  :) Since this time I don't encounter any problem with them....
And I like Jardan Kit ( I've 10 other model in my stash).
Eric QUébec city

Hi Bob:

They look pretty good to me. I know what you mean though.

Karl

Quote from: ReadingBob on December 31, 2014, 07:26:29 AM

Quote from: nextceo on December 31, 2014, 12:09:46 AM
Bob,

  Did you ever post your "Final Photos" for this build?? If not, I would like to see them...


Thanks!
Alan

Hi Alan,

Thanks for checking in.  I haven't quite finished this yet but when I do I'll post some pictures.  I've been working on some Jordon vehicles to place around the structure.  These were kits I had on the shelf.  They're not the correct era for Robert's layout so he can pluck them off and replace them with something more appropriate.  I just wanted to see it with some cars, tractors and pickup trucks sitting around it.   :D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-311214063020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-311214063020.jpeg)

I haven't (and probably never will) mastered building cars and trucks.  Especially these little Jordon kits.  They're great but I pull out what's left of my hair when I build them.   ;D

Thanks again for checking in.   :)

Just as Henry Ford would have wanted it,"You can have it in any color,as long as it's in black". Raymo

Thanks for all the comments on the Jordon's and for bearing with me as I move along at a snail's pace towards the end of this build.   :D  Raymo, I strongly suspect those Jordon's are the correct era for Robert's layout so I expect he'll be plucking them off and replacing with something more appropriate.  Maybe you should get start building some now.   ;)

One of the seemingly innocent steps in this build is to build a bunch of cardboard boxes to scatter around the diorama.  Well, I ended up watching two movies cutting these out, folding them and gluing them together.  Okay, I got distracted a but by the movies but still, its a time consuming process.  The boxes come on a sheet included in the kit.  Start by cutting them out with a sharp (good time to change the blade) X-Acto and a steel ruler.  There are a lot of cuts to be made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171023-56411434.jpeg)

Next. lightly score on the dotted lines so they can be folded where needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171023-57232273.jpeg)

Fold them and glue one corner together.  Hold it until the glue sets (this is why it's good to be watching a movie while doing this  :D ),  After the glue sets move on an repeat with the next corner.  And repeat,  And repeat.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171023-57241516.jpeg)

After the boxes were assembled I airbrushed them with Floquil Earth, inside and out.  After the paint cured I gave them a coat of A&I.  They're ready to be scattered around the diorama.  I squished a few by placing them on their side and smashing them with my thumb.  These are junk scattered around the grounds so they don't have to all look perfect.  Others I glued some scraps of wood in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171023-5725174.jpeg)

Now this contraption was something I created to light up the interior of the main building.  There's a smaller one already installed in the stairway.  It goes in from the bottom and I used a binder clip to pinch it around the walls that separate the main building and the right hand portion on the mill.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171023-5726839.jpeg)

Here's a shot of it lit up.   8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-110115171053.jpeg)

I still have a few things to do and I have yet to light up the storage shed but I'm getting closer to finishing with this one.   :D  Unfortunately I need one more gooseneck light for the storage shed and I'm not in the mood for messing with making one of those today.   ::)

As always, thanks for following along.  ;D  ;D

Just what I need,more pressure to build vehicles for Bob. I was hoping this summer I could build some for my self. ::)  Raymo

A great thread Bob. I love the rust on the track-stop, among a couple of hundred other outstanding details.


Is that some soft-core porn in the poster on the left corner of that fence? It doesn't look like those ladies have any clothes on.

Spectacular build Bob!!!   ;D


John

Quote from: Mike Engler on January 11, 2015, 05:49:13 PM
Is that some soft-core porn in the poster on the left corner of that fence? It doesn't look like those ladies have any clothes on.

Since L'il Tommy retired from law enforcement, Butty Bobby has got more darin'!!!
That poster is for the 'Ledbetter Sisters Travelin' Review'!

Just don't ask what is in all them cardboard boxes!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Quote from: Raymo on January 11, 2015, 05:35:16 PM
Just what I need,more pressure to build vehicles for Bob. I was hoping this summer I could build some for my self. ::)  Raymo

:D  :D  :D

This would look a lot better with some of your cool looking vehicles scattered around it.   ;D

Quote from: Mike Engler on January 11, 2015, 05:49:13 PM
A great thread Bob. I love the rust on the track-stop, among a couple of hundred other outstanding details.


Is that some soft-core porn in the poster on the left corner of that fence? It doesn't look like those ladies have any clothes on.

Thanks Mike!  That's a Ringling Brothers Circus poster.  That reminds me though, I have another Hokum's Burlesque House to build.   :D

Quote from: Cuse on January 11, 2015, 07:09:13 PM
Spectacular build Bob!!!   ;D


John

Thanks John!  It's been a fun one but I'll be glad to put it to bed.  Close but not quite there yet.

Quote from: gnatshop on January 11, 2015, 07:59:37 PM

Quote from: Mike Engler on January 11, 2015, 05:49:13 PM
Is that some soft-core porn in the poster on the left corner of that fence? It doesn't look like those ladies have any clothes on.

Since L'il Tommy retired from law enforcement, Butty Bobby has got more darin'!!!
That poster is for the 'Ledbetter Sisters Travelin' Review'!

Just don't ask what is in all them cardboard boxes!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Thanks, as always, for keeping things on the lighter side Gnat!   ;D

Quote from: Raymo on January 11, 2015, 05:35:16 PM
Just what I need,more pressure to build vehicles for Bob. I was hoping this summer I could build some for my self. ::)  Raymo

Raymo,

I hope you have a big stock. I'm coming for me, myself and I as well as Bill Cutler(PennsyJ1).

I'm bringing cash which is the same as money!


Tom ;D

Bob,

The lighting effect is stunning. Fantastic job.


Tom ;D

Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2015, 02:05:03 PM
Bob,

The lighting effect is stunning. Fantastic job.


Tom ;D

Thanks buddy!  I hot glued that lighting contraption together and only burned one finger in the process.   ::)  Naturally it's one that goes in the bowling ball.   :P   :D

I'm kind of hooked on this lighting stuff.  I need to visit Slim's table at the EXPO and stock up on stuff. 

Bob,

Slim's table sounds good to me. Thursday is good also for coming by early.

Tom ;D

Quote from: gnatshop on January 11, 2015, 07:59:37 PM

Quote from: Mike Engler on January 11, 2015, 05:49:13 PM
Is that some soft-core porn in the poster on the left corner of that fence? It doesn't look like those ladies have any clothes on.

Since L'il Tommy retired from law enforcement, Butty Bobby has got more darin'!!!
That poster is for the 'Ledbetter Sisters Travelin' Review'!

Just don't ask what is in all them cardboard boxes!  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Hey Gman,

Just because a married guy in on a diet, doesn't mean he don't read the menu!

Tom ;D

Bob

The build is looking great - keep adding those great details. Are you going to have this build at the EXPO?

Quote from: S&S RR on January 12, 2015, 03:20:40 PM
Bob

The build is looking great - keep adding those great details. Are you going to have this build at the EXPO?

Thanks John!  Yes, I'm bringing it to the EXPO to give to Robert.  I offered to build it a kit for him last summer and it turned out we both had this one sitting in our respective stashes so I simply took mine out and started building it so he wouldn't have to bother sending his to me.  I'll exchange it for his up in Scranton (assuming he's okay with the job I did on it).     

I finally finished lighting this puppy.  If memory serves me correctly I used a total of 16 LED's and 7 Current Limiters.  In most cases I put 2 LED's per Current Limiter which requires a minimum of 9 volts.  There are, however, two instances where I put 3 LED's in-line with one Current Limiter so those require 12 volts. 

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190115200625-57532326.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190115200625-58031896.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190115200625-5804989.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190115200625-58051036.jpeg)

One tiny section of scenery needs to be finished.  In the lower left there's 1 inch space between the concrete retaining wall and the end of the diorama that needs something to cover it up.  Nothing is provided in the kit as this area is supposed to be blended in with the surrounding scenery.  I cut a section of a hydrocal wall I had cast to fit and need to paint it and then spot glue it in place to fill the area.  When Robert gets this he can leave it as is or pop it off and blend it into his scenery as he sees fit.

Thanks for checking in!

Bob,

   Looks awesome! What did you do for the rooms inside the buildings? I like the inside of the room of the small building.

Alan

Great work Bob.....I'll try to get by your place to check it out before you take it to Expo.  8)

That looks awesome Bob,  can't wait to see it at the Expo.
  Sam

Perfecto and all that---- and more. Well done.

Tom ;D

Nice work Bob

I finally got a chance to catch up here. I like your lighting contraption. You might like making those even more after you try copper tape. Saves on messing with short lengths of wires.

If you want to warm up that one gooseneck that's a bit blue hit the LED with a little dot of the clear yellow paint from Tamiya.

Those three LEDs working off of a nine volt and a current limiter must be pretty dim unless you've got a really strong battery. With three white LEDs in series and a nine volt battery you can get away without using a current limiter. However, if you decided to run the model off of a 12 volt or higher power supply you'll risk burning out the weakest of those three LEDs

What? you didn't want to make another gooseneck light? I just got done making about fifty of them to take up to Springfield.  :P I've really developed a love/hate relationship with those buggers.


Congrats again on a totally awesome job.  :)

-slim

Quote from: nextceo on January 20, 2015, 08:19:27 AM
Bob,

   Looks awesome! What did you do for the rooms inside the buildings? I like the inside of the room of the small building.

Alan

Thanks Alan,

To be honest I didn't do too much for the rooms inside the building.  I did add a figure (as suggested in the instruction) into the scale house room in the front of the small building.  That room turned out to be the biggest headache I had when I added the lights.  My original plan was to make the roof of that building removable but the smoke stack on the rear wall has guy wires attached to it that attach to the roof so I had to scratch that idea.  I had drilled a hole the interior wall just big enough to push a 3mm LED into.  I had cut an opening in the base so I could get to the interior of all the buildings.  Well, getting that LED into that hole after the fact was quite a challenge.   ::)  Eventually I got it in though.

If you look real close at the lower window in the stairway on the main building you can  see a little blue painters tape and a red wire.   :-[  It's an open window so I'll probably get daring and try to poke a small paint brush with some black paint on it to paint the tape and wire.  I could pull the contraption out and paint it but it was a tight fit and I'd rather not go risk doing that.   :P

Quote from: GPdemayo on January 20, 2015, 09:00:22 AM
Great work Bob.....I'll try to get by your place to check it out before you take it to Expo.  8)

Thanks Greg.  Yep, either swing on by or we need to have a SBG meet before the EXPO so I can show it the rest of the crew. 

Quote from: ollevon on January 20, 2015, 09:47:00 AM
That looks awesome Bob,  can't wait to see it at the Expo.
  Sam

Thanks Sam!  Much appreciated.  I'm looking forward to meeting all of the forum regulars that are attending the EXPO.  Should be fun!

Quote from: ACL1504 on January 20, 2015, 09:53:01 AM
Perfecto and all that---- and more. Well done.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom!  Much appreciated.  I'll bring it down one of these days when the Judge is around to show it off.   :D

First rate craftsman work as usual, Bob.  Can't wait to see it at the Expo.


Jeff

Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 20, 2015, 10:26:28 AM
Nice work Bob

I finally got a chance to catch up here. I like your lighting contraption. You might like making those even more after you try copper tape. Saves on messing with short lengths of wires.

If you want to warm up that one gooseneck that's a bit blue hit the LED with a little dot of the clear yellow paint from Tamiya.

Those three LEDs working off of a nine volt and a current limiter must be pretty dim unless you've got a really strong battery. With three white LEDs in series and a nine volt battery you can get away without using a current limiter. However, if you decided to run the model off of a 12 volt or higher power supply you'll risk burning out the weakest of those three LEDs

What? you didn't want to make another gooseneck light? I just got done making about fifty of them to take up to Springfield.  :P I've really developed a love/hate relationship with those buggers.


Congrats again on a totally awesome job.  :)

-slim

Thanks Slim!   8)  I do need to pick up some of that copper tape one of these days.  I did hit those goosenecks with the clear yellow from Tamiya.  Maybe I need to hit it again.   :D 

For the pictures I was powering this with the power pack from my Digitrax Zephyr.  The 3 LED's and 1 Current Limiter won't light with just a 9 volt battery.  I need to find a "no longer needed" power supply from something discarded and convert it to something I can use at the workbench for testing this stuff.  I have tons of old wall warts in a box somewhere.  I just need to find one that outputs at least 12 volts.  I typically use a 3 to 1 or a 2 to 1 ratio of LED's to Current Limiters so 12 volts is all I really need.

I'm running low on LED's and stuff.  I hope you'll be hawking your wares at the EXPO.   ;D 

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 20, 2015, 11:20:28 AM
First rate craftsman work as usual, Bob.  Can't wait to see it at the Expo.


Jeff

Thanks Dr. Jeff!  Much appreciated!  I'm looking forward to seeing you and all of the other forum regulars at the EXPO.

Bob, you have done a fantastic job on this build. I have really enjoyed following along as you went. Top notch work.

Quote from: ReadingBob on January 20, 2015, 11:11:36 AM

Quote from: GPdemayo on January 20, 2015, 09:00:22 AM
Great work Bob.....I'll try to get by your place to check it out before you take it to Expo.  8)

Thanks Greg.  Yep, either swing on by or we need to have a SBG meet before the EXPO so I can show it the rest of the crew.

Sounds like a plan Bob.....I'm looking forward to seeing it.  ;D

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 20, 2015, 11:20:28 AM
First rate craftsman work as usual, Bob.  Can't wait to see it at the Expo.


Jeff

What Jeff said.  See you at the EXPO.

makin me wish i was going.
Next year

Looks fantastic, Bob!

I'm looking forward to seeing it at the Expo as well.  How do you go about showing up the night time look at the expo?  (which looks amazing).

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: coors2u on January 20, 2015, 12:50:34 PM
Bob, you have done a fantastic job on this build. I have really enjoyed following along as you went. Top notch work.

Hi Dustin,

Thanks for the compliment and following along.  Both are very much appreciated.  This has been a long one but a fun one.  I hope to post some photo's of the finished diorama next week (fingers crossed).   :D

Quote from: S&S RR on January 21, 2015, 08:37:43 AM

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 20, 2015, 11:20:28 AM
First rate craftsman work as usual, Bob.  Can't wait to see it at the Expo.


Jeff

What Jeff said.  See you at the EXPO.

Thanks John (and again to Jeff).  I really appreciate it.  I'm looking forward to seeing both of you at the EXPO.

Quote from: clevermod01 on January 21, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
makin me wish i was going.
Next year

Last time (only time) I attended the EXPO was back when it was in Strasburg.  There was a module there that was populated with your structures.  If I recall correctly it wasn't until the third time I stood there examining it that it dawned on me they were paper structures.   :D

Sorry you won't be at this one.  Hope to meet you at a future EXPO.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 21, 2015, 09:39:58 PM
Looks fantastic, Bob!

I'm looking forward to seeing it at the Expo as well.  How do you go about showing up the night time look at the expo?  (which looks amazing).

Cheers, Mark.

Hi Mark,

Thanks so much for the kind comments.  They're very much appreciated.  Hmm....I hadn't thought too much about showing the lights at the EXPO.  I could hook it up to some batteries but it wouldn't look the same with the lights on.  I wonder if Jimmy, Hal, Doug and the rest of the EXPO crew would mind keeping the lights of in the room.

Actually when I give it to Robert (assuming he still wants it) at the EXPO I was going to let it up to him to decide whether or not he wants to put it out for display.  I think I'll take a few more night time like photo's and print out a few that could be put next to it to show the effect if he opts to display it. 

Perhaps there could be a special night time viewing set up?  Like Friday night a 9pm (or whatever suits).  That way all the lighted models could be displayed together to show off their wonderful night scenes.  Just thinking out loud.

Cheers, Mark.

Absolutely beautiful Bob!!!!! What else can be said, everyone has said it all. Congratulations again.

Quote from: ReadingBob on January 22, 2015, 07:46:11 AM

Quote from: clevermod01 on January 21, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
makin me wish i was going.
Next year

Last time (only time) I attended the EXPO was back when it was in Strasburg.  There was a module there that was populated with your structures.  If I recall correctly it wasn't until the third time I stood there examining it that it dawned on me they were paper structures.   :D

Sorry you won't be at this one.  Hope to meet you at a future EXPO.

Are you thinking of the one Sue and I did, using paper plans from Clever Bros.?

Quote from: Randee on January 22, 2015, 03:28:21 PM

Quote from: ReadingBob on January 22, 2015, 07:46:11 AM

Quote from: clevermod01 on January 21, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
makin me wish i was going.
Next year

Last time (only time) I attended the EXPO was back when it was in Strasburg.  There was a module there that was populated with your structures.  If I recall correctly it wasn't until the third time I stood there examining it that it dawned on me they were paper structures.   :D

Sorry you won't be at this one.  Hope to meet you at a future EXPO.

Are you thinking of the one Sue and I did, using paper plans from Clever Bros.?

That would be exactly the one I was thinking of!  Sorry I failed to give credit where credit is more than due.   :-[

Quote from: PennsyJ1 on January 22, 2015, 03:11:07 PM
Absolutely beautiful Bob!!!!! What else can be said, everyone has said it all. Congratulations again.

Thanks Bill!  I can focus on finishing up those CCK Houses now.  They're starting to come together.   ;)

Quote from: ReadingBob on January 22, 2015, 04:00:09 PM

Quote from: Randee on January 22, 2015, 03:28:21 PM

Quote from: ReadingBob on January 22, 2015, 07:46:11 AM

Quote from: clevermod01 on January 21, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
makin me wish i was going.
Next year

Last time (only time) I attended the EXPO was back when it was in Strasburg.  There was a module there that was populated with your structures.  If I recall correctly it wasn't until the third time I stood there examining it that it dawned on me they were paper structures.   :D

Sorry you won't be at this one.  Hope to meet you at a future EXPO.

Are you thinking of the one Sue and I did, using paper plans from Clever Bros.?

That would be exactly the one I was thinking of!  Sorry I failed to give credit where credit is more than due.   :-[

It's ok...:)

I got to see this project up close and personal yesterday.....absolutely amazing.
 
The build and finishes were great and the lighting was impressive (even using Slims' stuff where there's a chance of the whole thing burning down  ;D [size=78%]).[/size]
 
Wonderful build Bob.....I'm sure John will appreciate all the time and effort you put into this build.....great work!  8) 8) 8)

I think everybody but me must have gotten a Fox Run Milling kit. Here is another one that just showed up on RRLine: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44510    There is going to be a separate category at the Expo contest for Fox Run Milling kits.


And Jaime told me they were impossible to find.

Thanks Greg and Mike.  Wonderful build over there on RRLine.  Thanks for providing the link Mike.  I don't belong to that forum.  If you happen to post over there please tell Steve what a terrific job I think he did with this kit.

Now for some 'final' photo's.  I say 'final' because I realized, after taking the photo's and uploading them to the forum, that I forgot to add the pigeons!  I'll be doing that this weekend but you'll just have to imagine what it looks like with pigeons or come to the EXPO to see 'em.   :D

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115184902-60621865.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115184902-6072698.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115184902-60732447.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115184902-6074869.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115184902-60751431.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185141-60761550.jpeg)

More in a moment...

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185141-60781734.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185141-6079244.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185141-60801343.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185141-60812150.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185356-60821383.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185356-6083438.jpeg)

Still more in a moment...

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185356-60841877.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185356-6085340.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185356-60862234.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185525-6087440.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-250115185525-6088601.jpeg)

That's all folk!   ;D

Great build Bob - and I'll look forward to seeing the pigeons at EXPO.

Wonderful build Bob , just outstanding .

Great photos of a great model! You can't beat outside shots. I don't miss the pigeons.

Another fantastic build, Bob!!!!
Just don't forget the pigeon poop before the Expo, although the attendees will provide
plenty of poop.  That l'il Jimmy D. probly got plenty of it from his kids today!!  ;D ;D ;D

Night shots  are my favorite.

Thanx
Bob

It's perfect Bob!. Great pics too


John

Quote from: Cuse on January 28, 2015, 06:57:19 AM
It's perfect Bob!. Great pics too


John

Exactly what John said.

Tom ;D

Bob,
Thank you for sharing your build with us!  To me, what stands out, is nothing stands out, everything blends together seamlessly.  I'm feeling at a loss for the correct adjectives, absolutely excellent comes to mind, but I'm not sure that says it as well as I would like.

Bob, you could not ask for anything more than what you have done with this kit. The daytime shots are only bettered by the night shots. Great work!


Marty

John, Jan, Mike, Gnat, Bob, John, Tom, Jerry and Marty,

Thanks so much for the kind words and comments.  I really appreciate them along with your following along.  This kit was a lot of fun to build, just like every other FSM I've ever tackled, and went together very well.  The instructions were, as I've come to expect from one of George's kits, top notch.

Time to knock out a few small builds now before I (or someone else  ;) ) decide what my next big build will be.   ;D       

From one Bob to another, that is one beautiful build.  And the night shots really put the piece over the top.  Congratulations on a great build.

Quote from: UP Fan on February 02, 2015, 09:18:49 PM
From one Bob to another, that is one beautiful build.  And the night shots really put the piece over the top.  Congratulations on a great build.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the kind words.  They are very much appreciated.   :D  I'm still relatively new to this lighting stuff.  I was really pleased with how it worked out on this one.

Hi Bob:

Looks great. Love the lighting. Great job.

Karl

Quote from: postalkarl on February 03, 2015, 07:41:17 AM
Hi Bob:

Looks great. Love the lighting. Great job.

Karl

Hi Karl,

Thanks!  I really appreciate it.   :D

Hey Bob, I just had to add my comment,. that is such a terrific job on that build. Some times you think you seen the best of the best, and then a build like yours shows up, and WOW.
  That's over the top.
  Sam

Quote from: ollevon on February 04, 2015, 09:14:13 AM
Hey Bob, I just had to add my comment,. that is such a terrific job on that build. Some times you think you seen the best of the best, and then a build like yours shows up, and WOW.
  That's over the top.
  Sam

Hi Sam,

Thanks!  I really appreciate your kind words.  I've had a lot of fun with this one.   :D

!(speachless)!

Bob
All :) [size=78%] I can say is you are [/size]
:)
The Best  :) :)


I have a inside corner up front on new section already for this Magnificat Build


Your are a true artist  8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


Thanks again


Robert

Robert,

I'll try and not let this one get lost on the way to Scranton. 8) 8) 8)  I'm riding shotgun, literally!

Tom 8)

Thanks Donato, Robert and Tom,

Tom the Judge and I will be arriving at the EXPO Thursday morning.  I'm thrilled it's going to be on Robert's layout.  I've seen the video and it's quite a layout.  Having it on display somewhere where people will be able to see it sure beats having it sit on a shelf in my garage.   :D

Thanks again!

Seckler's a lucky man! I don't like the idea of Reading Bob's builds crossing state lines!  ;)


John

Bob I just came across this build that you did,  I was looking for builds to model my Dorothy's house build....I don't think I will be any where nearly as good as you are but it gave me super pointers, thank you 

Quote from: jankirkwood on February 06, 2016, 01:18:11 PM
Bob I just came across this build that you did,  I was looking for builds to model my Dorothy's house build....I don't think I will be any where nearly as good as you are but it gave me super pointers, thank you

Hi Jan!  Thank you very much for your kind comments.  I love building FSM kits.  I learned a lot over the years from building them.  The instructions in these kits are second to none.   :D

Mr. Bob All I can say is what everyone else has said my friend!!! Kris and I love it!!
Bill

Quote from: PennsyJ1 on February 07, 2016, 06:38:21 PM
Mr. Bob All I can say is what everyone else has said my friend!!! Kris and I love it!!
Bill

Thanks Bill and Kris!  Your comments are very much appreciated.   :D

Bob this is another of your fantastic builds. I really enjoy checking out and following everyone elses builds but the way you narrate each of your builds is so helpful and has helped me on each of my builds.

Quote from: Lynnb on April 22, 2020, 02:32:56 PM
Bob this is another of your fantastic builds. I really enjoy checking out and following everyone elses builds but the way you narrate each of your builds is so helpful and has helped me on each of my builds.

Thanks for the kind compliment Lynn.  Believe me it is very much appreciated.  It takes a little extra time to share things here but I've benefitted from others doing so and am more than happy to share what works (and doesn't) work for me.   

This came up wonderfully, Bob!  Looks terrific!

Cheers, Mark.

Bob this has always been one of my favourite kits that I could never get my hands on, you did another amazing build thread, just awesome.

Bob - You have outdone yourself again!  And the photography is excellent!  Tom and I have some suggestions for your next "big" build. 

Quote from: Lynnb on October 01, 2021, 10:41:07 PM
Bob this has always been one of my favourite kits that I could never get my hands on, you did another amazing build thread, just awesome.

Thank you Lynn!  I had a lot of fun building this one.  I can say that about every FSM kit I've ever done.  It's always a joy to assemble one of George's kits.  This is an older thread and it's been a while since I've had one on the workbench.   ;)

Quote from: Judge on October 02, 2021, 10:32:26 AM
Bob - You have outdone yourself again!  And the photography is excellent!  Tom and I have some suggestions for your next "big" build.

Thanks Bill!  I'm certainly open for suggestions.  I hope to have my workbench free of all the little side projects I have going on right now and I've been pondering what to build next.  ;)