Hi Tom, glad to see that your adopting the sub-roof idea.
The only thing you should change is cutting openings in them where your distribution boards will be located.
That way you can leave the sub-roof in place while you hook up/solder the magnet wires to the distribution boards.
The openings will also allow you to run the magnet wires down into the areas where the boards are located.

Rich, you are so very kind to talk about my work so kindly, thank you my friend!

Greg

Hi Dave, here is a photo of my house as it looks at Christmas all lit up.




I even built a model of it, show what my neighborhood looked like in 1900.
The Grant Trunk train station was right behind my house, and that's the general store right beside my house.



I will miss this old house.

Greg

Thanks! Mark.
I will indeed start a layout thread to document my progress.
I just hope I can make it just as interesting to look at as your layout is already!

Greg

Hi Rich, after living in our 1894 Queen Anne home for the last 37 years now, we are now in the process of moving into a smaller more modern home that will allow me to build a layout.
Not a huge layout, the room is only 11.6 feet by 13.6 feet. in a finished basement.
So it will be a around the walls layout, I want continuous running.
I will also use my Magoun pier module as a peninsula coming out from the layout to the middle of the room.
I always imagined my Magoun pier to be a large urban/city pier, so I will now build the city portion to go with it.

Greg
 

Larry & Mike, thanks so much for your posts and kind words within them!

Mike, I have waited 63 years to finally get my own layout room & hopefully a layout to now go in it.
So now having fewer years ahead of me than behind, I better not waste anymore time in finally getting to build one.
I will post photos as I progress.

Greg

Thanks very much guys for your kind remarks, I really appreciate them!

Greg

Hi everyone, I purchased this kit here on this forum back in February from forum member Dan Pugatch.
I guess I mostly liked it because it was a tribute kit to George Sellios, one of my favorite modellers.
Which I also wanted to pay tribute to him on my future layout that I am now finally starting to work on!
I had never built a kit from Jason Jensen or CCK before.
Strangely this kit also features a third contributor to this kit "Rusty Rail" who produces the cast resin shed and many other details that this kit icludes.
So I'm guessing the Jason Jensen designed the kit CCK did the laser cutting for it and Rusty Rail supplied all of the cast resin structure & details.



Here are some of those cast resin details that come with this kit, minus the resin shed that stand beside the larger wooden one.
The resin shed has details cast right onto the interior walls, and must all be painted before you glue the shed together.



I did not use most of those detail castings simply because I'm not certain where this scene will be used yet on my layout.
I have built the 2 separate structures and incorporated LED lighting into them and placed them on a temporary base for now to allow me to hook up the LED's to see that they are working and how they look.
I ran into a few problems with this kit, some of the walls were smaller than they should have been to meet evenly at the corners.
So I had to remake those to the proper sizes, and also the roof card for the main building did not line up with the dormers properly so I had to make up my own roof cards to fit them.
I was also disapointed with the kit's signage just a not very well photocopied sign to use.



So I still have to make up a sign to use, and I think it will not be for a tool & die business.
Instead I will pay tribute to George's actual business "Fine Scale Miniatures"
So here is how my version of this kit came out looking.



I turned the resin shed into the place where George produces all of his scale lumber for his kits.
The larger wooden structure is where he cast all of his wonderful details and packages all of his kits.



Here's how the LED lighting looks when darker.



So that's all I have for now, I will post other pics of this kit when I find out where I would like to place it on my layout.

Thanks for having a look!

Greg

Hi Tom, everything your doing is looking wonderful!
When I built my Horwoods, I used a method that used 2 layers when it came to the roofing.
I had fully documented it in my RR Lines forum build, but we all know what sadly happened to all of that stuff.
I wish I still had my Horwoods diorama to show you what I mean, but I sold it to "Little Canada"
However I have since used the same technique on other structures I have built.
So for the first layer you can use styrene or cardstock whatever you choose.
This first layer ends up being the ceiling of the interior.
You can mount all of your LED's to the underside of this layer where you plan on having lighted interiors.
Then feeding all of the magnet wires for those LED's up through that first layer, and then running those wires to the LED distribution board, as shown below in this structure.

.

I then add the second layer in this case scribed wood flooring over top of the magnet wires.
In your case it will be the cardstock roofing panels provided in your kit that you have already cut out.
Instead of wooded flooring your upper panel will have the gravel roofing material.
On my Horwoods I glued the first panel with the LED's in place, and left the gravel roof panels loose to allow me access to the interior to allow me to do the final magnet wire hook ups to the distribution board/boards.









This method allowed me to place LED's where I wanted them to be for interior lighting.
Also allowed me to run all of the magnet wires over to the place that I had the distribution board placed.
I cut away the first layer leaving an opening where the distibution board was placed.
The second/top layer hides all of that stuff when you are finished, and it worked reall well for me on my Horwoods in the end.

Greg

Incredible!
Thanks for sharing it!

Greg

Hi Tom, I have used a diagram from my Horwoods kit to show you how I think you could work with 2 LED distribution boards instead of just one.
You can easily daisy chain the 2 distribution boards together and still only use the one power supply to power both.
The conecting wires for the distribution boards can be run under your layout/structures.
All of the other magnet wires for the LED's can be run internally within each structure.
Also give you more space on the boards to add more LED's to light up the interiors if you choose to do so.
So the red lines shown on the diagram indicate interior walls that I added to my Horwoods, and the green boxes represent the LED distribution boards.
The distribution boards will be hidden behind the added interior walls, and easier to hook up from above when the time comes to do that part.
I will be more than happy to answer any other questions that you might have in building this wonderful kit.

Greg

Fantastic looking!
All of your weathering looks perfect!
Very well done indeed!

Greg

Rich, that's good to hear!
Take it easy buddy!

Greg

Rich, I'm very sorry to read about your recent stroke.
I hope that you will have a full recovery, and that you can return to your model building passion soon!

Greg

Dave, it's a wonderful looking structure, both inside & Out!
You should be very proud of yourself with this one.

Greg

Hi Ron, thanks very much!

Greg