KC's Workshop Cerzullo's Fruit Packing Build

Started by ACL1504, January 25, 2015, 04:24:54 PM

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ACL1504

#90
Another small issue I found was the loading dock canopy was to short and didn't cover the loading dock. I used the cardboard backing from a legal pad and made a new one the length of the loading dock.





Here is how the loading dock looks next to the structure and loading doors.





Now, one could always assume the loading dock is bolted to the wall. However, in the real world, the loading dock would most likely have an equal amount of support posts under the dock next to the building. If you go back and look at the two photos above, you may agree something appears missing under the dock and next to the wall.

You are now up to date. I'll start work on the roof next.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Amagic41

Tom .... Changed the directions to reflect and adj the size on the chip

Kenny
Ken Crump
KC's Workshop
Bowie,Md
www.kcworkshop.com

ACL1504

Quote from: Amagic41 on February 16, 2015, 05:46:13 PM
Tom .... Changed the directions to reflect and adj the size on the chip

Kenny

Ken,

Thanks for the update.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

#93
On the loading dock deck area I added two extra supports. I added one in the front and one in the rear. I then glue a single 2x4 to the two support posts. I left it unpainted so you can see to what I'm referring.



Now it's time to move to the roof and roof decking.

In the three photos below you can see the stock roof decking included in the kit.

I'd like to make a few suggestions for a better looking roof, but first the three photos.







Continued in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

In the photo below please note two roof decks. The one on the top is the stock one and the one on the bottom is the one I cut. Both are a scale 16' in length. On the one I cut I added 1 scale foot to each side. This is very important as you will see later in the build.



A picture is worth a thousand words so I'll let the photos below do the explanation. The first photo shows the original deck and you can see it isn't wide enough.



The next photo shows the new deck with the added 2 scale feet in width.



This is much better and will look better, I promise.

Continued in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

#95
On the front deck piece I widened it the scale 2 feet as I did on the rear piece. On this piece I also removed a scale 2 feet from the length. In the photo below you can see the two new deck pieces I cut.



Notice also the lines on the underside of the decks. They indicate where the building fits on the roof decking.




The lines in front/rear indicate where the rafter tails will be glued to the underside of the roof.

Here is how the new roof looks on the buiding.



Continued in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

#96
The next several steps are important should you desire to have a great looking and prototypical model.

Using the scale 2x6's, glue them to the sides of the "A" frame/peaked side as shown in the photo below. These are to be glued flush with the top of the wall section. Cut the 2x6s a few scale feet longer than needed as the excess will be cut off at the outer edge of the roof.



Be sure you miter the top (at the peak) and use a new sharp #11 blade to make the cut, referring to the photo above and below.



Now we'll add the horizontal piece. This is more cosmetic rather than essential, but it is correct as well. This piece is to be glued in place just above the clapboard siding and on the peaked wall portion.



I left the piece in place and used the new #11 blade to mark the cut on the right side.



If you are good, the piece fits perfectly. If you need to make an adjustment do so now before moving to the left side.

Continued in a few.




"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

#97
I held the piece and made the left cut. When satisfied with your cuts, glue this piece in place as shown below.



Here is how it looks with the roof in place.



NOTE: Don't glue the roof pieces on yet.

I've seen many a great model ruined by not adding the following step to your roof. Turn the deck over and paint the underside of the roof deck the color of your trim or the color of the structure.




Now using the 2x6's cut 8 short rafter tails and glue them in place as seen. They are glued every 2 scale feet and 4 scale feet from the edge. Let them hang over a little as they will be trimmed later.




Continued in a few.






"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

When you have added the short rafter tails to the front and back roof decks/panels glue the two roof sections to the model.



When dry, trim the rafter tails using nippers. I used a pair of Xuron nips for this.



Use your trim color to touch up the ends of the rafter tails where cut.



Continued in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

#99
Now we are going to add exterior rafters to the roof edge. Using the 2x6 scale stripwood, edge glue them to the edge of the cardboard roof panel flush with the top. Again, don't forget to miter the top.





Once the rafters have dried, trim and paint as before.

The reason I have the rafters glued to the outer edge of the roof panels is to prevent the edge of the panel from showing once the shingles are added.

Time for a Diet Pepsi break.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Now look at the model below and you can see why I suggested you paint the underside of the roof, why I added the outside rafters and why your patience in a build will pay off in the end.







Ken, the extra rafters are only a suggestion but the roof panels do need to be changed. And, the good news is there are no more changes.

I'll add the main roof shingels and loading dock rolled paper in the next few days.

Thanks to all who are following. This a great looking building Ken has and will fit anywhere on the layout.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

cuse

very nice little kit and excellent build and tutorial.


John

bruce.oberleitner

As always, nice job Dr. Evil!

This is a cool little kit.  I am glad to see that your able to give the manufacture valuable feedback that is helping him make a better kit.  That's going to help everyone in the end.

Sorry to hear about the arm.  Did you injure yourself trying to lift those pallets full of "Diet Pepsi" in the garage again?  I've told you that they are too heavy and that you need a forklift for the job!

Hehe

It just wouldn't be right if I didn't include a "Diet Pepsi" joke.  No offense intended

;D ;D ;D

UP Fan

Great job, Tom.  Really like the first floor roof treatment with the tar on the edge of the roof material.  Great color combination. 

martin.ojaste

Tom, I love how detailed and clean the build is. Nice tight joints and good lines. I think I will try the way you put on rafter ends on he next build.


Marty

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