Old Squid Brewery Project

[tom.boyd.125]

Eric,
Neat building ...
I had to read the thread because your bricks / stones that you carved in the plaster looks like Ed Fulasz's work ! 
Tom

[EricQuebec]

Eric,
Neat building ...
I had to read the thread because your bricks / stones that you carved in the plaster looks like Ed Fulasz's work ! 
Tom

Thank you for your compliment Tom, but my work is far from the quality of molding and engraving of that from  Ed Fulasz

Eric Québec city

[EricQuebec]

Hello All,
After almost a month, time to upgrade this thread with the progress made on this project.
First I've sanded a line on the wall that will be glue perpendicular to the 4 floor wall with door. The purpose of this sande line is to insert a plastic I beam to simule the rail of the lift. For that task I've take a 8 x14 basswood strip cover on the 8 side with double face tape and a small strip of sanding paper

then I've primed all the plaster part with Krylon red oxide paint. And let it dry overnight. During this time, with my small miter saw (buy from micromark, in fact it's the same that John Siekirk have and you that you can see on one of his pictures), I've cut some piece of 15/64 sq basswood at various angle for helping the assembly of the building.

Then I've begin to to paint the wall. First I've cover all the wall with  my "brick base" color, in fact it's a mix of 80 % Georgia clay color and 20 charcoal grey. Once dry, I paint  several individual birck with various shade of color between the Georgia clay and the Charcoal grey. The lintel on top of the door is paint with unbleached white titanium color.
.
Finally I've do the doors with some basswood strip wood that was stained with AI solution and paint in titanium white color with a terry clothe. The mortar line is mad with Rembrandt Chalk, the most clear  Raw Umber color (408.10). At this step I've glue the plastic I Beam in place. The Beam is paint in flat black  and rusted with a pencil lightly dipped in Raw Umber paint,

Then, I've scratchbuild a door for the main entrance of the building. I've be very inspired from the doors that we found on several kit of G. Sellios. SO I've make a very accurate draw of the door with Corel Draw and scratchbuild the door with several size of basswood  strip.

Then I've glue real glass behind the door and glue the door in place.


To be continued

[EricQuebec]

Then I've begin to assemble all the part of the building  in exception of the large rear wall, that need to be paint  before ( not begin at this time, because It will be a paint challenge for me, I think I do it next week ... )
In begin I've try to glue the part together with WeldBond glue ( that was a very strong glue, that can glue resin part or glass...) but the final result is still very fragile., and FInally I've opted for 2 part epoxy glue.
I've encounter another problem during the assembly. When I drew the plan of all the parts , I did not take into account the Increase of the length owed in joints of gluying (In my cas, this increase is about 3" scale). What made that the  last part ( the large rear wall) Did not fit any more in the available space.
SO I've must to disassemble the right corner of the building and thin this side  about 3"scale.
Here's somes pictures of the assembly of the wall.

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I must said that I'm not totally satisfied with the result at this time.  I don't like the joint between each part. SO I think I will cover all the first floor with Stucco.

That's all for today.

Thank you for viewing

Eric Québec city

[deemery]

Before you cover all that great brickwork with stucco, try this:   Put some masking tape on each side of the corner to leave maybe 1/16 - 2mm gap.  Then mix up some relatively thin plaster and brush it to fill the crack.  That might provide enough fill to make you happy.


dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking great Eric.

certainly give Dave's solution a try, but if you are not happy and want to cover with stucco it might be nice to have the stucco fallen off in random patches to expose some of your brickwork (and hard work!) underneath.

Cheers, Mark.

[Twopoint2]

Brickwork looks super, will be a very nice structure when finished.

[EricQuebec]

Before you cover all that great brickwork with stucco, try this:   Put some masking tape on each side of the corner to leave maybe 1/16 - 2mm gap.  Then mix up some relatively thin plaster and brush it to fill the crack.  That might provide enough fill to make you happy.


dave

Thank you for this solution, I will try it for sure when I will assemble the back wall with the second wall from right in the last picture,

Eric Québec city

[EricQuebec]

Looking great Eric.

certainly give Dave's solution a try, but if you are not happy and want to cover with stucco it might be nice to have the stucco fallen off in random patches to expose some of your brickwork (and hard work!) underneath.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi Mark, you right it the way I plan to apply the stucco.

Eric Québec city

[EricQuebec]

Brickwork looks super, will be a very nice structure when finished.

Thank you for your comment Jim. I appeciate it
Eric Québec city

[Janbouli]

Looking great Eric, but I wouldn't expect anything else from you.

[ak-milw]

To me it would be a shame to cover that great brick work up.

[Vilius]

Eric,

I hope you can keep the brick work. It makes such big difference.
The gaps is the reason I always glue brick walls (plaster or resin) together first, fill the gaps, and only then paint.

Vilius

[bparrish]

Eric...

As noted above...... give filling the joints with something a try.  You can use spackle, dilute hydrocal or squadron putty.  I like squadron putty as it is really fast drying.

Below is a shot of Jimmy's Fallberg that I did in a how to some years ago.  I filled the corner seams and carved over them.

Worked out pretty well.

see ya
Bob

[EricQuebec]

Looking great Eric, but I wouldn't expect anything else from you.

THank you very much for your comment Janbouli, I much appreciate it

Eric Québec city