Clapboard Wall Signs

[Willwood42]

I am not sure this is the right forum,but here goes. In many Bar Mills kits (Majestic Hardware, Mooney's Plumbing) there are large signs that go on the clapboard walls. I would think they are too large for tin signs,but it would seem to be very difficult to paint them on clapboard siding (as opposed to the flat surfaces of brick or concrete). Can anybody help me with the prototype for applying large wall signs to clapboard siding.  Thanks

[ReadingBob]

Don't underestimate the artistic talents of the old time sign painters.     Here are a few photo's I took back in the late 90's in Mahanoy City, PA.  They tore down the old movie theater which exposed the clapboard walls of the adjoining buildings.  The ad's that were painted on them were pretty well preserved.









We're just not used to seeing this kind of thing.   

[Willwood42]

Hi Bob, thanks so much. That is exactly what I was looking for. I want to thin the signs so they look like they are painted on, but just wasn't sure that was prototypically correct.   I am new to this forum, but find it incredibly useful because so many of its members know an awful lot about all aspects of "model trains".

ps. the signs are gorgeous too

[rslaserkits]

Mahanoy City is were my grand parents and mom were from. Still have family there but have not been back there in 30 years.
rich

[ReadingBob]

Hi Bob, thanks so much. That is exactly what I was looking for. I want to thin the signs so they look like they are painted on, but just wasn't sure that was prototypically correct.   I am new to this forum, but find it incredibly useful because so many of its members know an awful lot about all aspects of "model trains".

ps. the signs are gorgeous too

I'm sure glad I was able to help you out and lucky enough to have some pictures of the prototype handy.  I think the building that they tore down was built in 1923 (if I remember the article I read about it correctly) and I'd have to assume those signs were painted years earlier so that gives you some idea as to the period they belonged to.   

[ReadingBob]

Mahanoy City is were my grand parents and mom were from. Still have family there but have not been back there in 30 years.
rich

It's a small world Rich.  My grandparents (both sides) lived in Mahanoy City and that's were my parents are from.  I spend plenty of time there when I was very young (in the 60's).  I haven't been there since I took these pictures in the mid to late 90's. 

[S&S RR]

Great signs Bob!  I need to develop a good procedure for printing signs and getting them on the layout.  The issue I have had so far is with the ink running when you get them wet with the white glue.  Anyone have suggestions? I'm using a HP printer with standard ink and paper.

[ranny9]

Great signs Bob!  I need to develop a good procedure for printing signs and getting them on the layout.  The issue I have had so far is with the ink running when you get them wet with the white glue.  Anyone have suggestions? I'm using a HP printer with standard ink and paper.

John! Vellum paper and transfer tape...

Here's a bit from my Saulena's build back in the winter of 2011-2012, on Jimmy's old forum, page 2:

http://kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6585&hilit=saulena&start=10

"These next signs were the easiest and I got the best results. I went to Plaza Art supply store in Fairfax on Friday afternoon, and picked up a tablet of Strathmore "ink friendly" Vellum type paper which is REALLY thin, and is "13.5 pounds". I don't know exactly what the weight means, but I think it means it weighs in at 13.5 pounds per ream? Some one correct me if I am wrong. I printed them on my cheap HP printer using this lovely paper...I didn't have to sand it. I applied strips of two sided transfer tape from the top down BEFORE I cut it from the sheet. Sooooo much easier to apply. No sticking to arms, elbows, and workbenches. These were larger signs, so there were more strips. I carefully placed it under one of the clapboards and mushed lightly to set the sign in place, then went back and mushed the top line, cut and mushed, cut and mushed, cut and mushed with my burnisher. That way, it didn't try to stretch from clapboard to clapboard. When I got to the next strip, I removed it from the sign from the other side with tweezers. Then I made sure the edges were burnished really well. I LIKE the way the Lone Ranger Bread and the Palmistry and Boar's Head Tobacco signs came out!"

Unfortunately, the photo did not accompany the thread.

[EricQuebec]

Great signs Bob!  I need to develop a good procedure for printing signs and getting them on the layout.  The issue I have had so far is with the ink running when you get them wet with the white glue.  Anyone have suggestions? I'm using a HP printer with standard ink and paper.

Hi John,
In past I've used several technics :
- Printing on cigarette paper, for the small sign. Cigarette paper is very thin, and get a good result when apply with the glue used to stick the gold foil on the illuminations
- For the large Sign, with simple lettering and 3 or 4 color, I glue my sign on masking tape, then I cut all the lettering with X-acto, and apply the stencil obtained on the surface that I want to paint. I've used this technique on my Hooper Oyster kit. ANd I will used it again on my Old Artic Squid project (this time , it will be 6 different color.. a challenge)
- Finally a technic that I will use in futur for the large sign with complex signage or lettering. The technic consist to make a stencil for all  surface which are plain color. Once the surface is paint with this plain color, all the signage too complex to be paint directly is cut from the paper sign and thinned with sanding paper, then glue in place. I never try this technique, but I've seen the final result that is very  compelling to the point it is very difficult, when the job is well done, to make a difference between the surface covered with paper and the directly paint area.

Eric Québec city

[rslaserkits]

Yes, it is my Uncle owned a bar there and last time I was there in 71 my Cousin had it  https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ruts-Cafe/116497008374795.   
rich

It's a small world Rich.  My grandparents (both sides) lived in Mahanoy City and that's were my parents are from.  I spend plenty of time there when I was very young (in the 60's).  I haven't been there since I took these pictures in the mid to late 90's.
[/quote]

[Willwood42]

One more option for the running ink. I used to print out my signs at work on a laser printer and had no problems. Now that I print from home on an inkjet I too have had the problem of the ink bleeding when using diluted white glue. I have had success using rubbing alcohol to "dilute" the glue. It forms sort of a slurry that is easy to spread. The ink doesn't run, and if the paper is thin enough it follows the contours of the wall reasonably well. I used this technique when adding signs to Majestic Hardware and will add photos the next time my "photographer" comes over for a visit. 

[S&S RR]

Thanks for all the tips on printing signs.  I was using a laser jet when I wasn't having a problem and now I'm using and inkjet. I will be trying out all your tips in the next few weeks.  Thanks again.

[Amagic41]

As for the ink jet vs laser jet ... I usually print all mine on a laser jet at work but in the off chance I need something at home and use the ink jet I spray mine with workable fixative and seems to help stop the bleed

[postalkarl]

Hi Ken:

Thanks for the fixative trick. What exactly are you using as I've had the bleeding problem. I will assume its an artists fixative.

Karl

[Vilius]

I think Ken had Krylon Workable Fixatif in mind.

Vilius