FSM Houligan's Alley - Build Challenge 2016

[EricQuebec]

(2/3)
And finally  assemble the recessed door



And glue it in place. The next step was probably one of the hardest at this time : cover the edge of the recessed door with stucco. The location is narrow, and care must be taken not to smear the posters and stairs with the stucco, and try to make a perfect job to not have any line at he joint of the wall.  I've redo the task two time, and I'm not ever really satisfied.



The next step is to glue the roof in place. It consist of a piece of cardboard, that must be folded and glue centered on the top of the building. I never had a good result to centered a roof be using this technic. I prefer to cut the roof in two piece and glue them separatly. The effort to centered the piece is more easy. You have just to make a mark on the middle of the ridge beam, on othe on the middle of the top of the roof, and aligne the top of the roof on the ridge beam. The second piece of roof went against the first. But before I've paint the border of the roof with roof brown color and glue a thin strip of basswood on the edge of the cardboard. The strip of wood will be stain with AI solution a give a better effect than a paint cardboard. Its a very small details... but the evil is in the details.





Then I've Glue the rafter in place. In the pictures you can that the edge of the ceiling are cover with stucco. The reason is  : I wait that the sway bracing be construct and glue in place.



Once all the rafter are gluying in place I've cover the roof with rolled roofing paper. The paper is stain with several layer of brown and black chalk powder and wash with alcool. Doug Focale explain this technic somewhere on his blog.  On the final colour is achieve, the paper is cover with a thin coat of Dullcoat and dry brush with vntage white colour before to be cut in 3'(scale) large strip.



To be continued in a few

[EricQuebec]

(3/3)

Finally I've add some patch on the roof and and line the Hatch opening with a small strip wood.



Then I've begin to work on the base of the DIo.
It consist of a 10 x 22" piece of blue foam. that I've sanded on large strip to glue the track.



That's all for today.
feel free to comment and thank you for watching.

To be continued
Eric Quebec city

[ACL1504]

Eric,

A most excellent build. I really like how you finished the stucco on the walls. Well done!

Tom

[EricQuebec]

Eric,

A most excellent build. I really like how you finished the stucco on the walls. Well done!

Tom

Thank you for your comment Tom, I much appreciate it

Eric Quebec city

[Janbouli]

Looking good Eric , nice stucco , great roof.

[rpdylan]

Really nice work Eric! Which Liquitex product did you use for the stucco walls?

[EricQuebec]

Looking good Eric , nice stucco , great roof.

Thank you very much Janbouli
Eric Quebec city

[EricQuebec]

Really nice work Eric! Which Liquitex product did you use for the stucco walls?

Thank you very much Bob.
For stucco I use The Liquitex Light Modeling Paste - Gel Medium

Eric Quebec city

[Raymond Gardner]

Built it last year. Nice start! Great kit!

[postalkarl]

Hi Eric:

Looks great so far. Have one here to build for A friend.

Karl

[EricQuebec]

Hey Thank you Raymond and Karl for your comment. I much appreciate it.
I will update this thread tomorrow.
Lot of progress on this kit.

Eric Quebec city

[Twopoint2]

Eric very nice build so far. The detail / castings make this kit and all of Georges kits so awesome.

[EricQuebec]

(1/4)
Hello all,
After two month, here's an update of this thread.
The next step for this buildng id to do the two canopies.
The first is cover with rolled roofing material. in the kit , the canopy  consist of a rectangle of cardboard cover with the tar paper, and then glu on the structure with two weathered wire. In fact, I Never like cardboard canopy, Because I find them too thick. So I've recut the piece on a thin sheet of wood, add rafter and cover with my tar paper. Fo more details, I've add two small pieces of weathered paper against the wall between the stucco and the wire, to simulate a piece of metal where the wire is soldered, like suggest be Doug Foscale on his blog. Here's the final result

The second Canopy is cover with corrugated metal. Like the first canopy, I replaced the cardboard pieces by a structure of rafter en battern (6), and used paper corrugated metal rather the real metal provide in the kit. I prefer work with paper stock, more easy to paint and weathered, and can be manipulated without making flash on the pieces.

Once the canopies done, the next step is to do the clearstory that sit on the top of the roof. Once again I've make some minor change in the construction of this part. The instruction call for painting the wall with the appropriate  color to simulate the tar paper. I'm not very happy with this technic because I found that the tar paper have no texture en deepness when drybrush for highlighting the details. SO I've cover the wall with tar paper that I've do previously on the same quality of brown paper provide in kit for rolled roofing. For to be sur to make perfect tar paper joint at the corner, I've begin by gluying a lare band of paper on the side of the clearstory, and then glu one peak side.

then I've assemble the two part together, and glue the battern and windows.

THe roof of the clearstory is cover too  with rolled roofing material and battern
To be continued in a few....

[EricQuebec]

(2/4)
The next step i to build the large water tank that sit on the roof. It consist of large piece of dovel that is cover with stained pieces of basswood. I don't want a greyish water tank, so rather than stain the wood with AI solution, I've prepare a new recipe of stain that I've found on the web. I call it 'Eddie mix' (Eddie is the modeler who had create this stain and publish the recip) stain and It consist of 70 % isopropyl alcool, 2/3 Sepia ink, 1/3 black ink. The stain give a more yellowish brownish color. You can see the difference of color between the Water tank, and the base of the water tan that was stain with my regular AI solution.
I'm not a specialist to simulate the wood color with chalk on a metal casting. SO I've prefer to redo in real wood the top of the Water tank rather than use the large metal casting provide in the kit. ANd finally Add the thread and plastic part to simulate the wire around the water tank.

ANd finally add the last details on the roof like chimney and roof vent. Nothing special to tell about this high quality casting... they're simply awesome....

Have you noticed that in the FSM kit, the first building is always the longest to build and the one that also requires the most work? This building answer to this rule and we don't have finish with it.
the next step is to build a small abandonned shed that sit on the sid of the building. It consist of four side shed cover with tar paper, and with an higly details door and windows that give a lot of character to the shed. following the technic previously exposed with the tar paper, I've add a little more details on the side of the shed. I've sanded a part of the cardboard, and remplace the lost stock with small piece of basswood before gluing the tar paper in place, after what I've tore the paper that was on the wood. Then I've weathered the wall with a ight drybrush, and a small touch of chalk.

I've prime the door and window casting with earth color spray can, and then work the surface with calk as explain on a document found on the university page of the SWSM website.
then I've paint it with white paint.

To be continued in a few

[EricQuebec]

(3/4)
Finally I've ad the roof on the shed and cover it with corrugated metal, like descirbe earlier, and heavily rusted it.

The shed is finally glue against the main building.  there are still two step before finishing this building. The first is building a large platform that is sit in the space between the the main building and the abandonned shed, and a large sway bracing. For this two step I,ve follow all the instruction provide in the kit, and make absolutely no change ont them. Unfortunately, I've totaly forget to take pictures of this step... Ok I'm guilty. For the next Update, I promised, I will post a pictures of the finishing Building.
The second building of this kit is the «R.J. SKOOTZ and SON» building. It's probably my most favorite building of this kit.
The first problem I've encountered is the paint for the wall. Georges used floquil and pollyS paint, and describe a technic with Diosol for painting the wall. I don't have the color used, I don,t have any floquil or pollyS paint and I don't have diosol. So after many try, I've choose to use ceramcoat acrylic «Mink tan» color, and light AI Solution to recreat the effect that Georges describe in the instruction. With my material, the technic consist to paint the wall with the acrylic paint, and before the paint is dry, to stain (don'T brush) the wall with with an Heavy coat of Light AI solution. I will pass over the usual steps common to all kits like bracing. The door casting, and the widows are paint with Eggshell white paint, weathered with AI solution. I've sanded the sign before gluing them. The only one details I've add is 8 rusted small hole which simulates the nails that hold the Sign on the wall. I've two holes in the wall, the first against a door,is  needed for a casting, the second, ont the bottom of the wall is fore the wiring needed for the light in the fish store that is against the main building

The roof is cover with shingles, and you know that I don't like paper shingles.  The roof consist of a piece of cardboard, but the cardboard is too thick to be used with my wood shinles. So I've recut the roof in a thin sheet of wood, glue the rafter tail in place, glue the shingles and stain them with my Heavy AI solution

Finally I've glue the last details casting in place. It was  not a very complicated building, but it was for sure a very funny building to do


Continue in a few.....