Miller Bros. Lumber Supply - CCK

[Dave K.]

Question, Jeff. Without corner trim, any suggestions on making sure you've got nice, tight 'n' trim corners?

[jlgrove]

Question, Jeff. Without corner trim, any suggestions on making sure you've got nice, tight 'n' trim corners?

...I found that after the walls were assembled and dry, I applied the individual boards then...making sure the corner pieces butt and fit tight....but if not its simple tomadd the batten strips to the corners to help make a tight fit....

[Dave K.]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[jlgrove]

...here are a few photos of my finished structure.....also, keep in mind...that many vintage structures, especially something built during the turn of the century, were not delegated by the crazy building codes etc, of today...so in that day, they just used cuts from the sawmills etc....so tight fits were not always the case....an old timer I worked with at the G.A. MIller Lumber Co. In the 70's told me that many of the buildings along the canal were actually built from materials from sunken canal boats and trees hewn from clearing the canal itself....interesting stuff...

[Dave K.]

Fascinating stuff...thanks! I read that you've consulted with some of the old timers in the area. Jump in any time with more pearls from these guys!

[jlgrove]

...George Hooper Wolfe was the local historian of the canal, and a friend of the family....and I had the privilage of working and knowing several people that worked on the canal, and had family that were canal people.....I kick myself daily for not getting together with those people and doing interviews of the days of the canal....I also had lots of friends and family that worked on the Western Maryland Railroad during the heyday of the Hagerstown yards.....another missed opportunity of legendary stories....

[Dave K.]

Excellent resources...when I think of all the WWII vets in the neighborhood as a kid, now gone, I bemoan the loss of their memories as historical sources. 😔

[rslaserkits]

Looking good Dave. For the corners I start the board flush with one end of the wall then leave the last board off until
the mating wall is in place, then add the last board and trim flush. And as Jeff said if need be use a batten on one or both walls
to cover any gap. Did the same on real buildings.
rich

[Dave K.]

Sound advice, Rich...thanks a bunch. 👍🏻

[Dave K.]

And away we go...

[Dave K.]

Two of the walls with windows dry-fitted into place.

[rslaserkits]

Dave, don't cut around the notch on the ends. Run the board straight over it.
That way it covers the tab on the adjoining wall and gives a nice corner. You
should be able to remove the first board on the left end of the one wall and
the right on the other.
But other then that the walls look great
rich

[Dave K.]

Whoa...thanks!

[Dave K.]

Back to school week put me behind on updates, but I've gotten my evening 60 in almost every day, so here's where we're at.

Jeff recommends a technique I've never done before, so I'm hoping this goes well. I'm accustomed to painting the windows and doors separately, giving them a little pre-weathering, and only then installing them into the walls, which have already been distressed and painted. He's recommending installing all the doors and windows into the planked walls and then painting the whole shebang. So, here are the walls with doors and windows in place and lightly primed with grey.

[ACL1504]

Dave,

It all looks good to this point. I'm sure it will turn out really well. Jeff has and had some great structure kits.

Tom