Superior & Seattle Railroad Build (Volume 2) Started 2/25/17

[bparrish]

John...

The machines are great.

How are you going to model that distinct oil smell of a machine shop ? ? ?

We had a vocational education machine shop program at the high school that I taught mechanics in. It was in a separate building from mine.  That building reeked of machine oil. The building had a 30 year head start on oil soaking the concrete floor before I arrived. 

When they closed the program in 2001 they never got the smell out even after redoing the concrete floors.  That smell gets into everything.

Great modeling.......... thanx
Bob

[donatode]

Bob, when you mentioned the "distinct" smell of a machine shop, I immediately had a flashback to the machine shops at my high school. I attended Brooklyn Technical High School (BTHS). It was one of the premier HS in the NYC school system. When I attended, it was all male students. This was in early 60's. One of the impressive things about that school were the shops. Besides the machine shops and wood shops (actually patern making shops), we had a foundry with an actual furnace, strength of material shop with all the destructive machines, a structural engineering shop wit a section of a skyscraper that the guys actually practiced welding and bolting. It had a 1 1/2 story house in the Architectural shop that got built and torn down each year.  We even had in the aeronautical shop that housed an actual T6 Texan for the students to work on.
Great memories. 

[donatode]

Tried to post some photos of the shops, but could not do it....maybe they were to large a file....

[S&S RR]

John...

The machines are great.

How are you going to model that distinct oil smell of a machine shop ? ? ?

We had a vocational education machine shop program at the high school that I taught mechanics in. It was in a separate building from mine.  That building reeked of machine oil. The building had a 30 year head start on oil soaking the concrete floor before I arrived. 

When they closed the program in 2001 they never got the smell out even after redoing the concrete floors.  That smell gets into everything.

Great modeling.......... thanx
Bob

Bob


Thanks for the kind words - the only time I ever saw a good paint job on machine tools, was when they were new, so modeling them with worn paint was a must for this build. I will say that this will be the last time I use rattle can paint on castings.  The new paints go on to thick for my taste - I tried every trick I knew to keep the paint thickness down.  Has anyone else experienced this.  Air brush or hand painting will be my MO for castings.  The only thing that will get rattle can paint after this build will be plaster, resin, and wood wall castings.


I will be modeling the chips around the lathes but I don't think I will try to reproduce the smell.  I spent my working career checking on my die builds in machine shops so I know exactly the smell you are talking about.

[S&S RR]

Tried to post some photos of the shops, but could not do it....maybe they were to large a file....

Donato


Try giving in another try and see if you get an error message.  The post looks like they may have been a file format that the forum software didn't like.  It wants *.jpg if you have a way of converting them. Thanks for trying and following along.  I had a very similar shop in the public high school that I attended in Comstock Park, Michigan. That experience really made me a much better Engineer.

[deemery]

Two thoughts on spraypaint:  (1) it depends a lot on the paint.  The old Floquil primer was great stuff.  Some of the new Liquitex line of acrylic spraypaint seems to be worth a try.  (2) I think it was in one of Dave Frary's Tips books that I read, "Soak the spraycan in warm/hot water for a couple of minutes, after it's well shaken, to help the spray pattern."


dave

[S&S RR]

Two thoughts on spraypaint:  (1) it depends a lot on the paint.  The old Floquil primer was great stuff.  Some of the new Liquitex line of acrylic spraypaint seems to be worth a try.  (2) I think it was in one of Dave Frary's Tips books that I read, "Soak the spraycan in warm/hot water for a couple of minutes, after it's well shaken, to help the spray pattern."


dave

Dave


Thanks for the tips on paint.  I agree that the Floquil primer was great - went on nice and thin. The primers that I was able to buy at my local hardware ( I posted pictures of the cans on this thread) go on way to thick for detail castings. I haven't had as big of a problem with the Camo paints that I use for Khaki and black.  I'm going to try the hot water tip and see if it helps at all.

[S&S RR]

Today, I went back to working on the walls of the Locomotive Works. The primer had a couple days to dry so it was time to start adding the chalks.


Since this is the companion building for the Stone Roundhouse.  I thought I would post a couple pictures of the Roundhouse wall that will be closest to the locomotive works for a color comparison.

[S&S RR]

[S&S RR]

The highlight color and mortar color that I will be using is the PanPastel color Raw Umber Tint.

[S&S RR]

I started with a traditional application of the pastel chalk using a sponge applicator.





In this picture the left wall section has just the sponge application and the right side has the start of the second application of chalk. In the second application I fill the deep mortar joints, air holes, and deep stone formations that didn't get a good coat of chalk with a small paint brush and an alcohol and chalk mix.

[S&S RR]

Here is a picture of my chalk palette.  You can see where I left off with painting detail castings, yesterday.

[S&S RR]

Here is a process picture in the ReadingBob tradition of the process.  I just add fresh alcohol to the palette every time I need to go to the small paint brush.

[S&S RR]

This process is repeated all the way around the structure.  In this case both inside and out.

[S&S RR]

The final step in the process is to erase some of the color off the face of the stones to get some of the gray back.