FSM Bailey's Produce for Cuse - Here we go again!

[ReadingBob]

Next up I need to line the freight doors with strip wood.  I just placed the wood over the opening and marked where I wanted to cut it with a single edged razor blade.  I didn't cut it on the wall.  Just marked it.   


Then I glued the pieces in place.  A little trimming and sanding and I got a decently snug fit.


I cleaned out the door and window openings with an emery board and sanding sticks until the doors and windows fit snugly and started gluing them in place (I had already painted them when I first started the build.


These little sanding sticks are handy although you can cut an emery board to fit the opening and use that as well.


I use the same Pink Flamingo Glue I use for gluing wood to wood to glue the doors and windows in place.  It hold well, sets up fast and dries clear.


Now it's time to put the window glazing in place.  For this one I used the acetate that came with the kit.  I cut it into pieces that fit the window opening from the rear and glued it in place using Micro Scale Krystal Klear (the same stuff I sometimes use for window glazing).


More in a moment....

[ReadingBob]

In the previous picture I was marking the a strip of acetate so I'd know where to cut it.  I used a square to cut it where I made the mark.


Note: Just in case you're wondering about the shirt it says Mötley Grü not Mötley Crüe.     It's from a vineyard (Galen Glen in Andreas, PA) that makes a nice Grüner Veltliner.  I'm not a Mötley Crüe fan.      

As I mentioned previously I glue the acetate in place using Micro Krystal Clear.  It dries clear but I try not to get any that's visible on the outside.  If I do, I remove the acetate and try again.   


I clean an finger prints off the acetate before positioning it in place with a pair of tweezers.


The next step is to add blinds.  I have regular paper I painted light green that I cut into strips slightly larger than the window openings.  Then I cut off random sized pieces to glue in behind the windows so it appears the blinds are pulled down to different points in each window.


Now the walls are ready for assembly.  I left out that I drilled some openings, where instructed, for vents and gooseneck lamps.  I also painted the stucco with Polly Scale Aged Concrete followed by a wash of A&I before installing anything.


One of my favorite parts of any build - gluing the walls together.  I tried to make sure I got 'em square.


More in a moment....

[ReadingBob]

The walls are together.  Now, at this point you might wonder about the joints in the stucco where the walls came together (I know I was).  That will get taken care of but first I needed to address the joints where the shingled portion of the walls came together.


The kit includes some angled pieces of strip wood that cover the corners of the shingled portion of the walls.  A little glue inside the channel (excess was wiped away with a finger).


And then apply the piece to the corner. 


Trim to fit with a sharp single edged razor blade.


For the joints in the stucco I first sanded them down and the filled in the seam with a little water putty using my X-Acto Chisel blade as a putty knife.


I sanded them down again after the putty in the seam dried.


More in a moment...

[ReadingBob]

Next I mixed up another batch of stucco and covered the corners that needed to be repaired.


While waiting for the stucco to dry I started cutting out roof pieces out of the cardstock.  A sharp X-Acto and steel ruler are the only thing needed here.


After each piece is cut out they get flipped over and a pencil is used to mark where the rafter tails will go on the underside.


The main roof has a (optional) sag in it.  If you don't want the sag you simply skip this step.  If you do, you cut out a little section, as marked on the card, that will be allow the sag to be formed later.  This is a free hand cut since it's not straight.


There's the sliver that was removed that will allow the roof to sag.


Another optional feature of the roof is that some of the corrugated panels can be left off exposing shingles beneath the corrugated panels.  If you don't want missing panels skip this step.  Only a few small areas of the main roof get shingles applied to them.


Well, that's all for now!  Thanks for following along!   

[S&S RR]

Looking good Bob! Fantastic modeling.

[EricQuebec]

Very nice
Eric

[vinceg]

Great thread, Bob. Lots of detail.

[GPdemayo]

Nice stucco job Bob.....

[jimmillho]

Looking great Bob.

Jim

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

You are moving right along and its looking great.

Karl

[Janbouli]

Going strong Bob , btw love the T-shirt collection.

[deemery]

Going strong Bob , btw love the T-shirt collection.

Yeah, it's like watching costume changes in a play...   

dave

[S&S RR]

Going strong Bob , btw love the T-shirt collection.

Yeah, it's like watching costume changes in a play...   

dave

I was reading through the posts and just realized I'm wearing the same T-shirt  - The green Modelers forum shirt. The first time I met Bob - back when we were both younger - he was wearing a T-shirt with his avatar picture on it. Do you still have that shirt Bob?

[deemery]

...
I was reading through the posts and just realized I'm wearing the same T-shirt  - The green Modelers forum shirt. The first time I met Bob - back when we were both younger - he was wearing a T-shirt with his avatar picture on it. Do you still have that shirt Bob?

Maybe someone should buy John another shirt 


dave

[S&S RR]

...
I was reading through the posts and just realized I'm wearing the same T-shirt  - The green Modelers forum shirt. The first time I met Bob - back when we were both younger - he was wearing a T-shirt with his avatar picture on it. Do you still have that shirt Bob?

Maybe someone should buy John another shirt 


dave

It's okay Dave. My wife only lets me where it around the house. Unlike Bob, mine has lots of paint and glue on it.