The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 3

[ACL1504]

I "X" out the old center line. I don't want any mistakes here.



I test fit the new cork in place.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I removed the cork and applied a line of glue to the area for the new cork.

NOTE: I just don't apply a bead of glue and lay the cork on top. This can cause uneven cork if not pressed flat.

I apply a bead of glue and then spread it out with my finger to get an even coverage.



I lay the cork in place and press it down making sure the inside edge of the cork is on the black line.

I also use push pins and tap them down with a small hammer. One light tap is all it takes to hold the push pin in the plywood and cork.



Need to load and crop a few more photos. Back later.

[ACL1504]

I only leave the push pins in place for about 30-45 minutes, just long enough for the glue to set.

I went to the Lynn Armstrong school of building cork roadbed for a turnout. I'll let the next few photos show what I did to get a smooth roadbed.

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

I guess you can just push the cork together and not worry about how it looks cause you are going to ballast it later.

I'm just saying you will get what you paid for or more importantly you will get the same crappy feedback in running trains as you did when laying the cork.

I always treat the roadbed I'm working on as a model. Again, I refer you to the principle of the 6 P's.

Proper Planning Prevents Pi** Poor Performance.

Nice, neat and professional cork roadbed look. Yes, it will be covered with ballast but the foundation is what makes it work better still.

[ACL1504]

The new location of the new turnout can be see in the next photo. Note the old turnout location in the upper part of the photo.



I soldered the new turnout in place and found an old section of track from the last layout. If the section of track is more than a foot long, I keep it for short section like this one.

New 3 ft. section on top and the old section on the bottom.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

New track is now in place and soldered.





This may be remedial to some but I showed it all the same.

[ACL1504]

My leveling car tells the story. All is smooth and ready for the local Tahope freight.

[Janbouli]

Great instructions Tom , I wish I was that meticulous , I'm afraid I'm not , and have had a lot of luck laying track , repaired mistakes maybe twice on my upper level.

[S&S RR]

Tom


Very nice track work! It's all about the details.  I wanted to let you know I put one of your tips to work this weekend.  Removing the ballast off the top of the ties with a piece of roadbed cork.  Works greats! I love the forum - you never stop learning. It's one of those things that when you try it, you think, why didn't I think of that. Anyway thanks for the tip - it has been added to the tool box.

[PRR Modeler]

Great roadbed and track work Tom.

[Blazeman]

Like your technique for cutting roadbed for switches. Seems to be a method that will yield a better result.

[Bruce Oberleitner]

looking good Uncle Tomie!