What gauge magnet wire for HO scale gooseneck lamps?

[Onewolf]

I checked the Microlumina store in the "Gooseneck Lamp" section but it was empty. I also checked the Microlumina how-to pages but could not find gooseneck lamp instructions.

So, what gauge magnet wire should I buy/use?

I want to batch build 10 or 12 gooseneck lamps.

Thanks.

Doug

[Oldguy]

Evans Designs sells 30ga, so I guess that should work.  https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/collections/wire-switch-more/products/magnet-wire-twisted-50-ft-spool

[ACL1504]

Doug,

You can call Bill Satore, owner of Microlumina, (Slim) on the forum. He may not show it on the site but he has them.

His number is 1-412-889-4302.

A very nice man and will get you what you need and tell you what size for goose necks.

Tom

[DACS]

What size tubing are these made of?  My signals are 3/32" tubing.  I use #35 magnet wire in these.  I can get four in the tubing.

Dave

[ACL1504]

What size tubing are these made of?  My signals are 3/32" tubing.  I use #35 magnet wire in these.  I can get four in the tubing.

Dave

Dave,

I use the 3/32" tubing for my signals as well. I've used #30 and #35 wires for the wiring. I've also used #28 wires in the 3/32" brass tubing signal posts.

For the tubing of the goose necks I use either .018" or .025 steel tubing and the #35 magnet wires. The #35 will fit into the .018 or the .025 steel tubing.

I got the steel tubing from Microlumina.

https://microlumina.com/t/tubing

Tom

[Rail and Tie]

If slim is out you can go directly to Ngineering.com   Tim has that in stock all the time I believe.


Darryl

[Onewolf]

So in an interesting coincidence between this lighting question and my previous "Structure Kit Inventory" question, I found that I had purchased the full gooseneck light kit(s) from NGineering sometime around the 2015 Modelers Expo.  Everything to make 16 gooseneck lamps. 

[Slim Jerkins]

Doug,


Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I haven't been "foruming" as much because I'm working on those instructions. Seriously. Lisa is after me to finish my Clinic in a Box project and every day she asks if she can do anything for it.


Anyways...It looks like you've got all the fixins. The mag wire for HO in your stash is 38 ga.


I depart from Ngineering's instructions in that I use Tichy reflectors because 1) I like the shape better, 2) they already have a hole in them, 3) they're probably already in the structure kit that you're making and if not... 4) they're cheap. They just need enough paint on them to cut out the translucence.


I use about a 3/4" length of tubing for a gooseneck or use a longer length if you want to make something to fit over a sign or whatever. I cut the tubing by moving a sharp #11 blade back and forth as the tubing rolls underneath it. A little score mark is all you need and you can just snap the tubing at the score mark. If you cut through - no worries. A sharp pushpin can be used to open the end of the tubing if it got squeezed.


Basic steps (using Tichy reflectors):


1) Solder the wires to the LED and test (soldering the LED is whole 'nuther subject that I'll get into)


2) Thread the wires through the tube and put a spot of CA glue at the end of the tube where the LED is. This keeps the tube from slipping along the wires and locks it in place.


3) After shooting the inside of the Tichy reflectors with some white spray paint, thread the LED/tube assembly through the whole in the reflector.


4) Secure the LED/Tube to the reflector with a little drop of epoxy. Epoxy works better (than CA) at holding the tubing to the reflector and forms a nice little protection for the LED. Just be careful that the tube doesn't creep out of the reflector while the glue is drying.


-note - when I make a batch of goosenecks I might make about 18 or so at a time. Tichy reflectors come six on a sprue so I might set myself up to make four or five sets of six in an evening. I keep the reflectors on the sprue when when gluing them. I have all the tubes threaded through the reflectors then mix up a little batch of 15 minute epoxy. I pinch six tubes between my fingers and make all six of them stick out of the reflectors a little bit - enough for me to get a little blob onto the led and the tube. THEN I pull the tubes back so that the epoxy gets up into the neck of the reflector. Set this aside and make sure the tubes don't move while the glue sets. After about a half an hour they should be set up but I don't handle them until the next day so that the epoxy cures nice and hard.


5) Cut the reflectors from the sprue and bend the tube to your heart's content. Use round-nose pliers, a gooseneck bending jig or form the tube over a small screw - the threads on the screw keep the tube in place and prevent it from collapsing. Test the light. If it doesn't work, toss it or keep it as a dummy light. Stuff happens.


6) Put a little drop of CA glue at the end of the tube where the wires come out. This keeps those wires from rubbing against the edge of the tube.


7) Pour yourself a beverage of choice. You deserve it.




Hope that helps.


-slim

[ReadingBob]

I'm glad Slim included step 7.  That usually occurs immediately after step 1.     Also after step 6.

I need to try that screw idea in step 5.  I have the collapsing problem on occasion.     In which case step 7 comes into play.    

[ACL1504]

I'm glad Slim included step 7.  That usually occurs immediately after step 1.     Also after step 6.

I need to try that screw idea in step 5.  I have the collapsing problem on occasion.     In which case step 7 comes into play.   

Bob,

You should consider Step 7 prior to Step 1.   In case you drop one of Slim's nano LEDs, you won't care.


Tom

[bparrish]

Gentlemen ....

At the risk of setting fire to Bill Satore..........

I use a lot of miniatronix lighting. 


They are a two wire bulb in a lot of voltage options.

In the constant effort of sacrificing my body to the hobby, I pinch the two wires together with a dab of super glue.  Once tied together, these wires can be bent into what ever shape you want.
Below is a photo where you can "Sorta See" where I did this to create an arched conduit to the bulbs and shades.


Hope this helps.

see ya
Bob