Monster Model Works Freight House

[Oldguy]

Considering the quality of builds being done, I'm almost hesitant on doing this.  BUt this is my first laser kit.  So here it goes.
The mandatory box and contents shot.  All parts sealed in plastic and clearly labeled.

There are three sets of instructions.  The main assembly set is well documented with actual build photos at each step.  The second set are for painting and weathering, along with assembly instructions of most painted parts.  The third set is an updated painting guide.  Originally, he had one use Doctor Ben's Weathering Pigments mixed with alcohol to paint the brick.  The it was to be over sprayed with Dullcoat.  AsS the Dullcoat dried it would form white mortar lines.  But in the updated painting guide, he mentioned that apparently, the Dullcoat formulation had changed and this process no longer works.  He now suggested one use craft paint.
So first up is test fitting the tab and slot fit.  For what ever reason each slot had laser cut brick pattern that had to be filed away. to get a good fit.  Using miniature rasps followed by small mill files made quick work of the offending material.

[S&S RR]

Bob

I'm looking forward to watching your build.

[Oldguy]

After ensuring that all tab/slot connections are good and flush, it was time to add the bracing.  He provided photos as to where each piece goes with appropriate precautions.  After letting the glue to grab, each wall piece was flipped over and weights applied to let dry over night.  Darn near ran out of weights and room.
Seems as though my eye ball was out of calibration by 1/16" as I had to trim four of the braces.
Then on to assembly.  Since my preferred method of using the metal square plate wouldn't work as it wasn't big enough, I had to break out the angle blocks and die blocks to keep everything square.  I have been playing around with rear earth magnets for other uses, and found the 3/8x3/8 ones to have a very strong grab to keep everything vertical.  I can move an entire wall section and those block/magnet units will move with it.  Add a couple of clamps, do a check for square by putting the roof on, and let it sit over night.

[PRR Modeler]

I'll be following.  I have built two of their kits and really like them.

[deemery]

Jimmy did good work, I build a couple of kits and ordered some of this laser-scribed brick and stone products.  The brick or stone 1/8" square piers are particularly handy.  I haven't heard if anyone bought the business from him. 


dave

[Dave K.]

Jimmy's kits go together nicely...built a bunch of them.

[GPdemayo]

Nice looking warehouse Bob.....I'll be looking in.

[Oldguy]

Thanks all for the support. 

I spent some time trying to decide on the brick/mortar combination.  Jimmy suggested to use a mix of aged brick weathering powder mixed with alcohol and make your own "paint."  Tried it and it looked good.  Then, do the same with a lime mortar wash powder.  Not too excited as it turned the brick white.  Tried removing the mix that got on the brick faces without much success.  I may try to do an over dry brush with an acrylic color to see if that works.
I also tried acrylic brick paint (various colors) and pan pastels.  The neutral gray looked horrible, but the white has promise.  For whatever reason, pan pastels don't stick to the weathering wash "paint", so that isn't an option.  Also tried some spackle but it did what spackle does and filled the mortar line flush with the brick.  I don't like that look at all.  I prefer the look of a raked joint, especially for this building.  I just need to find the right technique and combination to use with all the new to me products.  Thank goodness, I have a bunch of door and window cutouts to see what works.
Sorry no photos.

[deemery]

Seems you have 2 related problems:
1.  Coloring the mortar lines without filling them.
2.  Preventing the mortar color from tinting the brick.


I'd solve these in reverse order: 
a.  Lightly spray-seal (dullcote or some matte varnish) the brick after it's colored.
b.  I like using artist gouache (opaque watercolor - buy a student starter set with a 40% craft store coupon.)  Thin to consistency of skim milk, apply with a pointed brush by touching the brush to a crack and letting capillary action draw the color into the cracks.  When that's dry, carefully clean any mortar that got onto the bricks with a slightly damp cloth/paper towel.
c.  Then apply another thin coat of varnish to keep the gouache from coming off.  (If it gets wet, it will dissolve.)


dave

[PaulS]

Bob,


Another approach for painting your brick walls can be seen in the attached tutorial from Jason Jansen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13NGNqntuhM   


--Paul

[S&S RR]

Thanks all for the support. 

I spent some time trying to decide on the brick/mortar combination.  Jimmy suggested to use a mix of aged brick weathering powder mixed with alcohol and make your own "paint."  Tried it and it looked good.  Then, do the same with a lime mortar wash powder.  Not too excited as it turned the brick white.  Tried removing the mix that got on the brick faces without much success.  I may try to do an over dry brush with an acrylic color to see if that works.
I also tried acrylic brick paint (various colors) and pan pastels.  The neutral gray looked horrible, but the white has promise.  For whatever reason, pan pastels don't stick to the weathering wash "paint", so that isn't an option.  Also tried some spackle but it did what spackle does and filled the mortar line flush with the brick.  I don't like that look at all.  I prefer the look of a raked joint, especially for this building.  I just need to find the right technique and combination to use with all the new to me products.  Thank goodness, I have a bunch of door and window cutouts to see what works.
Sorry no photos.

Bob


I did a lot of experimenting with coloring Jimmy's Bricks.  I did a thread here on the forum - look up the Monster Yard Tower Thread.  Let me know if you have trouble finding it and I will look for it. I was real happy with the results.

[Oldguy]

Seems you have 2 related problems:
1.  Coloring the mortar lines without filling them.
2.  Preventing the mortar color from tinting the brick.


I'd solve these in reverse order: 
a.  Lightly spray-seal (dullcote or some matte varnish) the brick after it's colored.
b.  I like using artist gouache (opaque watercolor - buy a student starter set with a 40% craft store coupon.)  Thin to consistency of skim milk, apply with a pointed brush by touching the brush to a crack and letting capillary action draw the color into the cracks.  When that's dry, carefully clean any mortar that got onto the bricks with a slightly damp cloth/paper towel.
c.  Then apply another thin coat of varnish to keep the gouache from coming off.  (If it gets wet, it will dissolve.)


dave

I have some Vallejo matte varnish coming, so I may give that a try.  Gouache - had to look that one up.  Didn't realize that it is a watercolor.  That could be a definite option.  There is a local art store that might have it.
Thanks

[Oldguy]

Bob,


Another approach for painting your brick walls can be seen in the attached tutorial from Jason Jansen
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13NGNqntuhM   


--Paul

I've watched most of his videos and he does some great things.  But the spackle didn't work for me.  I used a pallette knife to spread it on and wiping it off.  Maybe it worked too good as I don't want to fill in the mortar lines.
But thanks for responding.

[Oldguy]

Thanks all for the support. 

I spent some time trying to decide on the brick/mortar combination.  Jimmy suggested to use a mix of aged brick weathering powder mixed with alcohol and make your own "paint."  Tried it and it looked good.  Then, do the same with a lime mortar wash powder.  Not too excited as it turned the brick white.  Tried removing the mix that got on the brick faces without much success.  I may try to do an over dry brush with an acrylic color to see if that works.
I also tried acrylic brick paint (various colors) and pan pastels.  The neutral gray looked horrible, but the white has promise.  For whatever reason, pan pastels don't stick to the weathering wash "paint", so that isn't an option.  Also tried some spackle but it did what spackle does and filled the mortar line flush with the brick.  I don't like that look at all.  I prefer the look of a raked joint, especially for this building.  I just need to find the right technique and combination to use with all the new to me products.  Thank goodness, I have a bunch of door and window cutouts to see what works.
Sorry no photos.

Bob


I did a lot of experimenting with coloring Jimmy's Bricks.  I did a thread here on the forum - look up the Monster Yard Tower Thread.  Let me know if you have trouble finding it and I will look for it. I was real happy with the results.

I found it and thanks for the link.  Don't how it got overlooked in the first place.  It looks like putting the mortar in first may be my answer.

[deemery]

I've had good luck with the matte finish sold at Michaels for ceramics.  I don't remember the brand right now.  Another thing to try with a 40% off coupon!


dave