Shadowlands and Tellynott

[GPdemayo]

Looking good Mark.....

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good Mark.....

Thanks, Gregory.

Hopefully I'll get a little more done today.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

I taped up and filled the cracks with Selleys gap filler.


Photo 2 - While this dried I worked on the roof.  I covered the styrene with double sided tape.  I measured scale purlin spacings, trimmed my Campbells corrugated iron to correct length, and applied indentations every second undulation along the purlin lines.  When flipped these look like lead headed nails.  I try to vary the sheet length slightly, while keeping the nails lined up.  This is done by varying the position of the sheets when putting the indentations in.  The sheets were than cut to 10mm widths.  I applied these to the long face, trimming the sheets back about 1mm from the hip.


Photo 3 - By cutting the hip sheets in two goes I was able to get the correct angle.


Photo 4 - Here is the first side trimmed.


Photo 5 - Shows the four roof planes with iron attached and cut to the ridge and hips.  I used CA on the smallest pieces along with the double sided tape.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I attached aluminium foil to double sided tape.  I cut these into 4.5mm strips.  This photo shows a strip of .88mm rod laid in the centre of the sticky side of the tape.  I use painters tape to hold the strips straight and in position.


Photo 2 - The styrene rod fits between the iron along the hips and ridges.  I then use my finger nail to work the tinfoil around the rod and then a toothpick to work it into the corrugated iron undulations.  I leave the tape a little long to fold over the end of the rods.


Photo 3 - Here is the roof with all the hips and the ridge done.  This process also helps hold all the small cuts together.


Photo 4 - The roof in position on the building.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

VERY nice job on the roof!  I like your seams.  What did you use to cut the corrugated material?  

dave

[ACL1504]

Mark, Cheers,

Excellent job on the construction of the roof. Looks fantastic and I'm sure the weathering will be just as fantastic.

Tom 

[Mark Dalrymple]

VERY nice job on the roof!  I like your seams.  What did you use to cut the corrugated material? 

dave

Thanks, Dave.

I just used a knife with a new blade in it.  If the blade is a little blunt, the foil will tear.  For cutting to length I use a single edged razor blade and just push and wiggle.  For the ends I cut corners off - two small squares - so there is not too much material to bend over the end of the rod.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark, Cheers,

Excellent job on the construction of the roof. Looks fantastic and I'm sure the weathering will be just as fantastic.

Tom

Thanks, Tom.

Yes - there will be a few stages to the painting and weathering.  Because the roof section is independent to the building it will be easy to spray.  If it is attached to the building I usually prime with Dullcote.  I have a new Tamiya product to try.  Dullcote is no longer available in New Zealand.  I still have a couple of cans left, but it will run out one day soon.  After the pandemic it just stopped coming into the country.  Reindeer moss is another product which is no longer available here.  It no longer makes it passed our biosecurity.  No more super tree kits!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

So after a bit more carving of the new plaster after it had cured I started work on adding the window mullions.

Photo 1  - I cut a square piece of styrene the same size as half the height of the window minus the thickness of mullion I am using (9mm square) The mullions are cut from .75mm square styrene.  I glued the 9mm square to a styrene backer, a little bigger than the window openings.  I also glued a piece of scrap plastic on the back for a holder for my long reversable tweezers.  With the side walls in place some of those windows are a bit of a reach for my big hands.


Photo 2 - I measured and cut some mullions on my chopper.  I cut these a little longer than needed (about .25 - .5mm longer) and then sanded the ends to get a tight fit.


Photo 3 - The square piece of styrene on the backer is put in position (using the tweezers if necessary) and while holding it there with my left hand I use smaller tweezers to put the .75mm mullion in position with my right hand.  This often takes two or three goes, as it my need further sanding.  You want the fit to be tight so that when you remove the styrene backing the mullion will stay put, but not so tight that the mullion will bend with the pressure.


Photo 4 - The styrene backer with the square spacer is carefully removed and I then add drops of CA using a toothpick or bamboo skewer, each side of the mullion on the interior of the building.  I go back with a second drop and kind of pull the glue across the intersection of the plaster wall and the styrene mullion.  Capillary action takes over.


Photo 5 - Shows the mullion glued in position.


Photo 6 - Shows the building with all the mullions glued into position.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[GPdemayo]

Great roofing and window work Mark.....

[Mark Dalrymple]

Great roofing and window work Mark.....

Thanks, Gregory.

The building and the roof have now been primed with grey spray paint.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

VERY nice job on the roof!  I like your seams.  What did you use to cut the corrugated material? 

dave

Sorry, Dave - I misread this when I first answered.

When answering before I was referring to the foil flashings. The answer is still the same, however - a sharp knife.  For cutting the strips to length I run the knife over them lightly, multiple times.  When cutting to width I run the knife down the corrugations lightly, once, and then wiggle backwards and forward to snap.  The same for cutting individual sheets at an angle.  When cutting them in situ on the roof its back to a number of light passes.

Cheers, Mark.