I'm building a layout

[NEMMRRC]

Great space!  Spend some time making it comfortable, even if it's not your final layout room.  In particular, I'd suggest getting those foam tiles (Harbor Freight) to put over the concrete, and maybe build some partitions so you can separate the train area from the garage with plastic sheeting (helps keep the dust/dirt down.)


Also consider some wiring projects, in particular for good working and layout light.  Make sure everything (lighting AND workbench) can be shut off from a switch where you leave the room to go back to the rest of the house.


dave

That is a good idea to have a maser switch for the electrical. The partitions is something that could happen once I'm underway.


Thanks.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Great news Jaime! You can make both areas work by using moveable modular sections. I recommend you make the first module and move it between your two locations to make sure you can fit it through the tight spots.


I'm using TurboCad on my MacBook for all of my track planning. I do everything in the 2D mode.


I can't wait to follow your progress, good luck.

I will definitely need to test moving the first module up to the attic. I have 2 staircases to maneuver. Fortunately both are straight shots and no landings and turns.


Learning TurboCad seems like a project on its own.


Jaime

[Janbouli]

Whoooohooo, I like both spaces , but the attic can become a gorgeous layout room.

[Zephyrus52246]

Congrats on the wonderful layout spaces.  Can't wait to see what you do with it.  I used the program Pencil and Paper (TM) to draw out the original Empire plan.    


Jeff

[NEMMRRC]

Congrats on the wonderful layout spaces.  Can't wait to see what you do with it.  I used the program Pencil and Paper (TM) to draw out the original Empire plan.    


Jeff

Did Dr. Jeff just make a funny    


Actually, I went to www.printfreegraphpaper.com and downloaded me a 1/4 inch grid and began to do some planning.





I marked off an area 25' x 25'. I also wrote down some possible names for the railroad and some restrictions to keep in mind.


I then chopped me up some 3' x 8' modules to use on top of the grid instead of penciling in multiple options. Kinda like playing dominoes.








I made two initial configurations. First is one with a duck under. Second is one with no duck under.








And that is where I am.


I decided on a minimum of 3 ft wide aisles.
I opted to go with 3' x 8' modules.
The posts are not on the drawing. I decided to just deal with them as I build the modules. So far only two will end up in the middle of a module. I need to draw them on the grid eventually but for now I don't want to feel limited as I move along.


By the way, what is the acceptable turning radius in HO in order to make a full loop and still run large engines? I would like to run some passenger trains even though the main focus is the logging operations.


Thanks for all the feedback and encouragement. I am taking note of all the suggestions.


More as it develops.


Jaime

[jerryrbeach]

Jaime,

I would caution you regarding the use of foam over open grid bench work.  A friend did this even though I advised him to use some plywood over the grid.  The one inch foam he used sagged between the cross members (two feet apart IIRC) and he had to add more crossmembers.  The additional crossmembers helped, but he ended up having to spackle some of the joints.  If you are planning to use thicker foam it might not be a problem.  I used plywood on the top of my modules and it has worked out well.  The plywood also helps to square the grid pieces.   

[Mark Dalrymple]

Great stuff, Jaime!

A couple of questions -

at what height is your attic 25' wide?

I assume once built and in your attic it will not be intended for the layout to be moved?  Why, then, are you limiting yourself to one size and shape of module?  Personally, I love the look of curved frontages on a layout, along with angles and variety.  Maybe you don't, but - is there a reason why you are taking these possibilities out of the equation from the get go?  Another possibility would be to build the bench work in situ and then build smaller dioramas to add when completed.  You could still make the bench-work sectional.

Looking forward to your progress.  I have been working through a similar process over the past 28 months - only we have 5 acres of garden and 11 acres in total.  Oh how I wish 2 hours a week of yard work would be all that was required here!

Cheers, Mark.

[Zephyrus52246]

Jaime, when you say large engines what do you mean.  Steam?  Big Boys?  I have minimum 30 inches on three turnback loops.  The curves have easements and my 4-8-4s can go through them--barely.  My USRA light 2-10-2 can also.  My other curves are 48" radius.  Long passenger cars look much better on the 48" radius.  Except for slow speed yard movements, I'd recommend #8 or #10 turnouts for steam as well. 


Jeff

[MAP]

Great news on the layout Jaime!  I'll be following along as well.

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime,

I would caution you regarding the use of foam over open grid bench work.  A friend did this even though I advised him to use some plywood over the grid.  The one inch foam he used sagged between the cross members (two feet apart IIRC) and he had to add more crossmembers.  The additional crossmembers helped, but he ended up having to spackle some of the joints.  If you are planning to use thicker foam it might not be a problem.  I used plywood on the top of my modules and it has worked out well.  The plywood also helps to square the grid pieces.   

I'll keep that in mind. Over here we don't get the thick foam at the big box home improvement stores.


Thank you.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Great stuff, Jaime!

A couple of questions -

at what height is your attic 25' wide?

I assume once built and in your attic it will not be intended for the layout to be moved?  Why, then, are you limiting yourself to one size and shape of module?  Personally, I love the look of curved frontages on a layout, along with angles and variety.  Maybe you don't, but - is there a reason why you are taking these possibilities out of the equation from the get go?  Another possibility would be to build the bench work in situ and then build smaller dioramas to add when completed.  You could still make the bench-work sectional.

Looking forward to your progress.  I have been working through a similar process over the past 28 months - only we have 5 acres of garden and 11 acres in total.  Oh how I wish 2 hours a week of yard work would be all that was required here!

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, my attic is 25' wide if I measure from a height of about 10' to the roofline. I will need to match the existing finished living space next to the attic. But that is further down the line. I will see about getting a photo of the attic from the reverse side of the one photo I posted already.


Once the attic is finished the layout won't be moved. For now, I need to make the modules fit my basement and move them if I decide to reuse them. So in practice, I will be building two layouts before I am done. For now I just need to get moving on something.


My wife wanted 10 acres. Thank all that is holy and righteous we could not afford that...


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime, when you say large engines what do you mean.  Steam?  Big Boys?  I have minimum 30 inches on three turnback loops.  The curves have easements and my 4-8-4s can go through them--barely.  My USRA light 2-10-2 can also.  My other curves are 48" radius.  Long passenger cars look much better on the 48" radius.  Except for slow speed yard movements, I'd recommend #8 or #10 turnouts for steam as well. 


Jeff

The largest locomotive I would run regularly would be a Pennsy T1. I own a N&W 2-8-8-2 Y class loco but who knows if I will run it. The basement layout is limited to 25' x 25'. The attic layout when finished will fit inside approximately 1,000 square feet with no posts anywhere if I have my druthers.


My focus would be on the logging operations even tough I would want to see some classy varnish round the layout uninterrupted.


Jaime

[deemery]

I had 2 thoughts about 'min radius.'  One is the physical minimum below which your stuff won't run.  The other is the min radius where the stuff looks OK.   On my layout, the physical min was 18, but I tried to keep most of the stuff that is visible to 24 or more.  And even then I'm expecting some funky looking parts with my 60' passenger cars.


dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

My wife wanted 10 acres. Thank all that is holy and righteous we could not afford that...

See? - there is such a thing as too much money!

Cheers, Mark.

[jerryrbeach]

Jaime,

Two more things to keep in mind.  If you think you might be moving these modules from the basement...  A 36" wide module will not go through a 36" doorway even if you remove the door.  The door stop strips leave you with an opening of slightly over 35".  My modules are 30" wide and I designed them with separate leg assemblies so I can move them through a door by tipping them on their sides.   (This seemed like a necessity to me as several of the doors in my house are 28" wide.)   One other thing to think about is how to level the modules.  I added leg levers to the bottom of my legs.  Then again, I live in an old farm house that doesn't have a single level floor.