Superior & Seattle Railroad Build

Started by S&S RR, December 20, 2013, 10:27:49 PM

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S&S RR

I also started getting those wonderful FSM castings out of the box and ready for primer.  I can spend hours looking at the details George has carved into his original molds.   Can you find the rat?









John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

ollevon

Looks awesome John , keep up the good work
  Sam

cuse

One of the (many) things that is striking about your scenery is the depth. Most people wouldn't "waste" so much real estate for trees and rocks behind the foreground trackage. But it is SO impressive and realistic. Really majestic presentation of the real thing.


John

S&S RR

Quote from: ollevon on August 11, 2015, 08:56:21 PM
Looks awesome John , keep up the good work
  Sam


Sam




Thanks for the kind words.  I plan on keeping at it - I'm having fun.



John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: Cuse on August 11, 2015, 08:56:52 PM
One of the (many) things that is striking about your scenery is the depth. Most people wouldn't "waste" so much real estate for trees and rocks behind the foreground trackage. But it is SO impressive and realistic. Really majestic presentation of the real thing.


John


John


Thanks for the kind words.  One of the reasons I started over on my layout is I wanted to create scenes with depth. I think the structures and the trains look SO much better with depth in the scene. Thanks for following along - we will see if I can make it look the way I want it to.



John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

For the past couple of days I have been making castings and fitting them to the base board. I will have some pictures when this process is complete.  I want to paint all of the castings that make up the base assembly in one batch to help get the same results with the coloring. As I mentioned above,  I'm trying something new using three different materials for the wall castings so this will be interesting.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

ACL1504

Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

S&S RR

Quote from: ACL1504 on August 13, 2015, 10:52:47 AM
Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)

Tom ;D


Tom


Thanks for stopping by and finding the rat.  Sorry to unintentionally bring up a bad subject. 
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

ACL1504

Quote from: S&S RR on August 13, 2015, 11:22:19 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 13, 2015, 10:52:47 AM
Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)

Tom ;D


Tom


Thanks for stopping by and finding the rat.  Sorry to unintentionally bring up a bad subject.

John,

It's all good my friend, I'm happy just to be able to get back to light work on the builds.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

S&S RR

Field test report - on my  "molding process".  We are not going to use the other word for awhile - Tom is on the mend.


I bought some 30 minute cure time rubber from Micro-Mart.  It was on sale!  I have used lots bottles of the 4 hour cure product without a problem.  So as you can see from the pictures the 30 minute cure didn't cut it.  All the detail pulled off with the original c******  when I tried to get it out of the mold.  I should have thrown the bottles away but decided to try one more time and got the same results see picture 4.  It took two hours to restore the wall section in the first two pictures. Although it did fill the air bubbles in the original c*******.  Since this is a build thread I think it's important to report our failures along with the successes - let me know if anyone has had better luck with this.  I just looked at the Micro-Mart catalog and only saw the 4 hour cure available.   





This is after I had been working at it for awhile and decided to post some pictures.





The good stuff.  The bottles of the 30 minute cure were already in the trash.  I placed them there with proper sendoff.








The original c***** that I pulled out of trial two.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

I'm going to try the new mold material that you heat in the microwave for the few plaster castings that I need to complete the Brambell's build. My first attempt with some small resin parts was successful.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

#1256
Well the mold lasted for one part and then I tried to wash it before the next casting and it pulled apart. So I dug into my casting box and found plaster castings that I could cut to fit and went with them for this build.  The air bubbles made their way to the outside surface on the back of the mold away from the part surface, but did not flow away like they do with the other casting mold materials I have used.


I will try this material again when I only need one or maybe two castings from a mold. For now, it's on with the build.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Here is a picture of the base for the build with all of the extra castings fitted and ready for the paint booth.  The base will now be moved to my workbench.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

The casting are in the paint booth.  I'm using Krylon Sand as my primer coat.  Three different materials for the castings - the metal casting from George's kit, plaster and resin castings for the retaining wall.  I'm very interested to see if I will be able to tell the difference after painting. 








John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

I started painting the wall castings today.  I'm using pastel chalks for their natural colors and textures. 





First step was to add the motor grey in the cracks.





Step two was to remove some of the grey color from the surfaces of the stones leaving it in the cracks using an eraser.





John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

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