Built-Rite Models Wm Archer Co

[tom.boyd.125]

Bob,
Will follow along on your project...
Tommy

[Oldguy]

Welcome aboard Tom.

Now that the walls have been glued and set, time for the roof decks.  Fairly straight forward, add glue and weigh down.  I an developing a love/hate relationship to the Super 'Phatic glue.  It will be interesting to see how they plan on filling in a hole that will occur between the main roof and the loading dock roof.  Scanning through the instruction didn't say.

One thing that I do do on pitched roof kits is to copy the roof pitch and any connections, such as connected shed roof, as here.  This will ease in cutting any verge or frieze boards.

While waiting for glue to dry, I decided to work on the 7 brick piers.  These are made up of three cut wood pieces the same height as an upcoming foundation wall material.  The Holgate & Reynolds brick material has been precut and scored to wrap around the wood cores.  It will be short on the inside portion as it won't been seen anyway.

[postalkarl]

hey Bob:

Looks like it is coming along.

Karl

[Oldguy]

One persnickety bit, was the lack of a full wall behind the loading dock.  The here just hit the top of what was built, but above that, nothing.  I didn't have any spare lap siding, so I used a piece of scribed that was given a bit of AI and paint.  It was fitted decent enough and glued in.  It won't be all that noticeable once the dock roof is added.  The void is evident in the instruction photos; such as they are.  The dock door was just a piece of siding glued behind the wall, so I added some paper hinges and a dollop of painted glue for a door knob.  In hindsight, I should of reversed the hinges and knob.

I did have issues with the brick piers.  WeldBond didn't want to hold and oddly enough, neither did ACC.  At least not very well.  So I used some E6000 abd wil find out on the morrow if it held.    I close to use Rail Scale Models brick piers, but I'll wait and see at this point.

I did get some small windows in and some sliding door track.  I'm not all that enthralled with the track.  I might add some wire to indicate the door hardware.

The kit included a basic three piece stair jig.  Place the narrow one in the middle, add the stringer, then the wider parts to hold the stringers.  It ain't fancy, but it does work.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Nice progress on an interesting structure build.

[Oldguy]

Got the stairs done 

The kit has interesting dock bumpers.  2x12, with 2x8 under doors, and bolt heads.  Different.  I'm stlil debating over the sliding door hardware.

[MAP]

Coming along nicely Bob.  I like your weathered painting.

[Oldguy]

Coming along nicely Bob.  I like your weathered painting.

Thanks.  It was one of better efforts.

[Oldguy]

The 7 piers are a bit futsy.  Have to get all three pieces even and then try to glue on the pre-scored brick overlay.  Finally got that done and on to mortar lines.  My old stand by, Spackle, wouldn't stick.  After drying overnight, most of it just peeled off.  I made a white wash and of course, it didn't settle into the lines.  I did some dry brushing of old brick paint and calling them good.  I see that eventually I'm going to have to replace that piece of foil. 


Came time to add the frieze boards and eave trim.  Here the roof angle template came to good use.  One just needs to get close to the vertical lines to get a good cut.  The old Mark One Eyeball just ain't what it used to be.

[Oldguy]

The sliding door hardware, or lack thereof, was starting to bother me.

I found some wire and made a small bend and then cut it to length.  Place the bent end down and glue it in place.  Small little suckers.

Then glue thing strips to simulate the attachment hardware.  I just used black construction paper.  I just need to rust 'em up a bit after the glue dries.  I think at 18" away they'll look okay.

[PRR Modeler]

Looks really good Bob.

[Opa George]

Nice detailing on the doors, Bob.  It is odd how inconsistent the inclusion of door hardware is among kit manufacturers. Many include it sometimes, but not always.  Some never.  I think it makes a world of difference and always try to fashion something if it is not included.
--Opa George

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,


Looking good.  I like the door hardware.  There are so many varieties of sliding door hardware modeling them can really add a distinctive look to your model.

[Oldguy]

I agree that plain scribed doors do need to be dressed up.  For the loading dock door, I made paper hinges and a dollop of glue that was painted for a door knob.  They won't win any contest points, but from close eye balls, it does make the door look a lot better.  I finished up the sliding doors, then moved on to the roof.

The kit included pre cut tar paper material, so I thought I'd use it.  This could be a complete disaster.  Way too many ripples.  I'll let it sit overnight and see if it changes.  As a side note, I find that it is a lot easier to let the paper overhang any edge to some degree and not get worried about neatness.  I go back over all overhanging edges using a metal ruler for not only spacing, but a hard edge, and a single edged razor blade to neatly cut off any and all excess.

[Oldguy]

Well, many of the wrinkles did disappear.  Some of the larger ones remained.  What to do.  What to do.  Removing all of it wasn't an option and I had considered removing what I could, replacing it with 3-tab shingles.  The flat spots would be left and the 3-tabs set like portions of the roof had blown off, leaving just the tar paper underlayment.  Then I decided to let it go and "tarred" the high spots.  They pretty much disappeared to the naked eye.
Then it on to the foundation.  The "original" portion of the building had a brick foundation that is represented by a brick overlay on strip wood.  Not much of a glue surface exists.  I found that 6x12 material would give a decent reveal for the siding over the brick and provided a decent amount of additional glue surface.  The side brick just ends where the new "addition" is located and a piece of bracing was added and a small section of brick overlay exists to wrap around to make the foundation look continuous.  As long as everything is upside down, might as well add the 7 piers.