Bar Mills Cundy Village Hotel

[Jim Donovan]

For painting the shingles I went with a slate type look. I first mixed Gunmetal Ink Wash 1 park ink 10 parts alcohol and brushed it on so that it wicked into all the corners.



Next, using the airbrush I lightly sprayed Americana Burnt Umber, spraying from the top of shingles downward only to create a streaking effect.

After using a hair dryer I next sprayed 50/50 Americana Burnt Umber and Ceramcoat Hippo Gray. Again from top to bottom, like rain falling down the side of the roof.

Again, I used a hairdryer to speed the process. Finally I mixed 50 / 50 Vallejo 70.890 Refractive Green and 70.968 Flat Green with a drop of Folkart Dolphin. I did not over mix as I want various colors to show. I then mixed the paint with 5 parts 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to create a fast drying wash. I applied with a round cosmetic brush, touching the surface so it wicked with occasional top to bottom strokes

When done here is how it looked:

[Jim Donovan]

When dry, The panels were glued per the directions in place using Elmers White Glue. Here I found another change I would make. I had put the finish strip across the top of each panel. However some sanding is required to get a snug fit that curves correctly. I ended up having to remove the strips and reapplying.

Instead of placing corner cap shingles I decided to try a more fancy look, often seen on real Mansard Roofs. To create the look I first started with 20 gauge copper wire cut to length and curved to fit.



I airbrushed the wire first with gray primer, when dry I used the same green mix I had used on the shingles but airbrushed. It was a great idea but as I work the paint can come off unless I am careful. I should have used an enamel primer.

I super glued the wire in place at each corner (after scraping the paint off the bottom to allow for good adhesion. To seal the corners on either side of the wire I used the scrap trim from the shingles to create a gingerbread look. I am still thinking on this, so far I am not happy with results. Note: The 'Gingerbread is shortly after this picture removed, it looked terrible. They are only held in place with the two sided tape so can be removed but something else will need to take its place due to the fragile nature of the felt roofing. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Jim Donovan]

I used the trick Greg DeMayo showed me of using brown lunch bag material to form drip edges for the shingles. I painted these with Ceramcoat Charcoal and streaked the HO 4-5 inch wide strips with Burnt Umber.

Finally I cleaned the back roof panel until I was able to place the dormer parts in place. I noted while putting the window frame in place  that the directions call for a wood panel to be inserted into the window prior to the outside parts being added. This key part is what is being used to provide adequate strength to the dormer and help keep everything square. However, as I have put an interior into the roof and have added lighting the bracing piece can not be used. If I was to do this part again and wanted to keep the lighted interior I would add bracing on either side of the window. Using the same copper wire used in the corners would most likely work to replace the support I did not use. In this picture you can see the part I am discussing, it is near the square being used to keep one wall in place.



Without the support I am finding I need to be very careful in order to keep the rounded curve of the roof correct. Even so the first dormer appears to be slightly on an angle in the camera view, even though I spent over an hour attempting to ensure all was lined up correct. So here is where we are and at this point I stopped to consider options.

[WigWag Workshop]

Those shingles look great! Appreciate you sharing how you achieved your results.


-Steven

[deemery]

Your mansard joint looks great!  I'd say some sort of ridge cap is more common than just butting shingles, in the mansard roofs I've seen.  (And since I like the architecture, I usually look at the roof details whenever I see a Victorian structure.)


I don't think there's such a thing as 'too much bracing.' 


dave

[PRR Modeler]

Looks great. I think Branchline/Laser Art has the same style in heavy paper.

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks Steven. I do like the way the shingles and the Mansard Joints come out, just don't like the amount of work these felt shingles take to cut right. I have taken  the window back apart and will clean the opening better and try again.

Jim D

[postalkarl]

Hey Jim:

The roof look really great. Love the color.

Karl

[Jim Donovan]

Hi Dave and thanks. After I had completed the caps I found an elastic thread used for holding labels that appears to be about same gauge (20). I think it might work just as well and the paint would adhere much better, however the wire is in place, looks good so it is staying. As mentioned to Steven, the dormer is back out and being redone. I have a plan on how to make the gingerbread look cleaner and more correct. We will see.

Finally, you are right, you can not have enough bracing and that is one think I have noticed, this kit as it comes is very lightly braced. I will be watching that more as I move forward.

Jim D

[Jim Donovan]

Hi Curt and thanks for the encouragement. I will get the window straight and the gingerbread to either look right or disappear. Thanks for the Branchline information, i have bought from them before and ordered some shingles today to see if they will work for the main building, I really do not like this pressed felt material and hope theirs is better.

Jim D

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks Karl;

I appreciate the compliment though I am not completely happy yet with roof. However, I have a plan to tweak it so I do not completely start over. Should be able to get the gingerbread to look right and definately will get dormer straight. I do like how the shingles came out even though the material is a pain in the butt to cut.

Jim D

[deemery]

I've gotten great slate results by stippling chalks or pigments.  That adds color and texture.  In particular, a bit of blue carefully applied gave me a really good slate color.  And if you don't like it, it's easy to wipe off.


dave

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks Dave;

I am going to try your suggestion on scrap roofing and if I get it right put it on the roof.

Jim D

[Jim Donovan]

As I said in my last post I needed to step back and see where the project was and where it was going. I was not happy with how the roof was turning out. I decided the copper corner caps needed to be oxidized and have copper dormer roofs. I removed the gingerbread, too tacky and did not fit.

Starting again I airbrushed the various parts needed for the rest of the tower in the colors I previously described so they were ready as needed. There are a lot of little parts and pieces that make up the tower section of the hotel. There are incredible laser etched boards for the underside of the first and second floor roofs as well as each window being made up of multiple laser cut parts that have two sided tape on the back so that you layer them in order to create the ornate windows and front facade. Apparently this was not hard enough so I decided to use real glass in all the windows in place of the pre-cut acetate windows provided with the kit.

The directions say it is better to wait to paint the parts of the window assembly until after they are put together. In hindsight I agree. However I had mistakenly already airbrushed the parts. In the end it worked out fine and they appear to be glued together with the tape OK.

The glass I used for this project is Clover Glass offered by Clover House. The glass is unique in that it is larger in length and width then a microscope slide by more than half as thin as a microscope slide cover, being only .006 inches thick. While very fragile and care needed to place it correctly it definitely enhances the look of the tower, especially in that it adds a realistic view when looking at the interiors.

To cut the glass I use a etching scribe made by General Tool, model number 88. This very fine scribe allows you to actually cut the glass, and even make curved cuts. Since I had the acetate sheet I simply knocked out the windows and used the blanks as a template. Taping a piece of paper to cutting mat I draw an outline of the window needed. To actually cut the glass place it on the cutting mat using a tacky putty tipped stick, this allows you to easily move the glass but limits the pressure on it so it does not break as might happen using tweezers. It also limits finger prints. Try not to touch the glass directly to keep it clean. Lining the glass up on one corner of the outline place a thin steel ruler on the first line you wish to cut. Take the scribe and using light presure as if you had a number 3 mechanical pencil score the glass along the ruler's edge. Start just before the glass edge and end just off the glass edge so that the entire score has the same amount of presure applied. Then make a second score. Most likely the glass was cut at the line during the first pass but certainly by the second. If an edge is slightly off use the ruler to guide the scribe and gently scrape the edge unwanted edge away. It takes a little practice but not as much as you think. I Here are pictures of the needed items needed, how it is done and a finish cut double pane window with a double curved top.









This is to be the front window on the second floor. I cracked the glass on my first try (the curved area) but got it on the second.

[Jim Donovan]

I worked on the windows starting on the 4th floor and working my way down. Here is how the roof and third floor looked with windows and lite up for effect.