The St. Louis & Denver Railroad - The Build

[GPdemayo]

Guess what? The ties were to begin in this episode, but I am not quite ready. So you will have to make do with another filler for today.

Like the last build, this is another small structure for the yard and is the #27501 MoW Shed by B.T.S. Structures. It is a neat little structure that will go nicely in the yard and service areas in Phase 2.


Exhibit #1 - kit box (20504) 

It is an easy build and required little modifications. The exterior siding is vertical 1x's that B.T.S. gives the builder the option of having "board and batten" siding by supplying scale battens in the kit.

Since the Storage Shed (see page 4 of this thread for pictures) has vertical siding, I decided to do this one a little differently and decided to use the battens. This was tons of fun - scale battens are really small and it seemed like I'd never finish installing them. I do like the way they came out and it gives this building a little different look.


Exhibit #2 - installation of battens in progress (20509)

As usual, I found a few things I felt could be done a little differently than the kit manufacture recommends.

The first was the roof sheathing. I'm not real fond of the card stock that many manufacturers, this one included, use for the roof sheathing, so I changed this one to wood. The card stock has notches in them for the roof bracing so I had to cut the notches in the my wood before I could glue it together and proceed with the rafter tails, outriggers and roof covering.

Oh, the red stain on the left roof piece is not ketchup - only a slight mishap.


Exhibit #3 -  replacement roof (20521)

I painted the exterior walls and trim and they were ready to be glued together. The walls are Floquil R-12 - reefer gray and the trim is R-36 - weyerhaeuser green.


Exhibit #4 - painted walls (20517)

 
Continued..........

 

[GPdemayo]

I glued each pair of side and end exterior walls and glued the roof rafters to the roof sheathing pieces and marked the underside at the eave on 2' centers for the rafter tails.


Exhibit #1 - walls and roof sheathing (20524)
 
The roof covering provided was plain black paper in the kit. I want some texture to the roofing, so I used 150 grit sandpaper to represent 90# slate roll roofing and stained it for a white granular surface (thinned Floquil R-11 - reefer white).


Exhibit #2 - roof w/ "mineral roll roofing" (20527)

With the exterior walls and roof complete, its time to tackle the flooring, joists and piers. I added floor joists from scale 2x12 stock because I didn't want to worry about the floor warping from the A&I wash I plan to put on the underside of the structure.

The piles are precut and ready for installation. However, they must be coated before imbedding them in the "ground".

Oh, what shall I coat them in to protect them from the weather and all those wood eating critters? Can you guess what pops to mind for coating piles? You guessed it.......Creosote!


Exhibit #3 - piers (20529)

The interior flooring is a piece of scored wood to represent 8" planking. Since this will be barely be seen through one partially open door, I decided to use it as is. I stained it with Floquil R-82 - concrete by painting on a light coat and rubbing it off while still wet. This light gray color gives it a nice well worn appearance.


Exhibit #4 - interior flooring (20530)

Continued in a few days..........

[GPdemayo]

The exterior deck supplied in the kit is wood scored to represent 6" planking. I think I could give it a more realistic look by using individually cut scale 2x8's, so I cut up some stock scale 2x8's and glued them over the joists. The sheet of wood at the top of the picture is the scored deck material provided in the kit.


Exhibit #1 - decking in progress (20536)

With the front deck installed on the joists, I could then glue on the piles and attach the front deck assembly to the building with the bracing provided. Note the underside of the main building color. It has a couple of coats of A&I while the underside of the front deck is still unstained wood.


Exhibit #2 - front deck attached to main building (20539)

Once the porch was attached, the stair stringers and treads were assembled and attached to the deck.


Exhibit #3 - front steps (20540)

Only some small miscellaneous items are left in this build, so I'll just touch on them and complete this build.

I added the door handles to the front and rear sliding doors. I am not 100% sure if I want to have the doors open, partially open or closed, so I used Scenic Accents Glue so I can reposition them if I need to in the future.


Exhibit #4 - sliding door (20558)

Continued..........

[GPdemayo]

There are a few metal castings with the kit - single barrel, multiple barrels and pigeons. I cleaned them up and painted (not sure what to do with the pigeons) them. The barrels need some rust and they will be completed.


Exhibit #1 - completed castings (20541)

B.T.S. supplied wall mounted exterior light fixtures to be placed over the front and rear doors. They are plastic shades and have a green coated wire to attach them to the building. I have not decided if I want to have working lights on the building, so I have decided not to include these at this time.


Exhibit #2 - wall light (20545)

The kit also comes with laser cut pieces for a ladder. I assembled it and will probably just stain it with some A&I.


Exhibit #3 - ladder (20547)
 
The kit does not include any bolt heads for the joist that attaches to the piles under the front deck to support the decking above. I thought it would be an appropriate addition, so I dipped into my stash and found some Grant Line bolt and washer heads that would work.


Exhibit #4 - bolt heads (20550)

Continued..........

[GPdemayo]

Here are a few pictures of the basically finished kit. The only thing left to do is weather the roof and walls and I will probably do that when I place the structure in its scene on the layout.


Exhibit #1 - front elevation-high (20552)


Exhibit #2 - front elevation-low (20551)


Exhibit #3 - rear elevation (20554)
 

Exhibit #4 - typical side elevation (20555)
 
This has been a fun little build and a nice kit by B.T.S. The laser cutting is good, the castings are of decent quality (the pigeons are a bit whimsical) and the instruction are good enough for a simple kit of this type.

Stay tuned, hopefully I will finally get to the cross tie installation in the next episode.....................

[ak-milw]

Nice little build greg. Sometimes you need a little diversion like this to help keep you going.

Oh ya, better pick that ladder up before someone trips over it.

[cuse]

Nice Greg!

John

[GPdemayo]

Nice little build greg. Sometimes you need a little diversion like this to help keep you going.

Oh ya, better pick that ladder up before someone trips over it.

Thanks Andy.

I'll get that ladder moved before those kind, wonderful and all knowledgable OSHA gents show up and shut the railroad down.

[GPdemayo]

Nice Greg!

John

Thanks John. Your soon to be new engine house is looking good, can't wait to see it in place.

[GPdemayo]

Finally.................on with the installation of the cross and switch ties. This will be a short post, but I will continue it with more pictures soon.

After letting the ties sit for a couple of weeks, most of the oily residue from the creosote has evaporated and they are ready to move into the house and use.
 

Once all the ties are in the jig, I cut a length of 1/2" masking tape in half and attach it to the top of the ties and lift them out.
 

Exhibit #1 - cross ties in jig (T068)


Exhibit #2 - switch ties in jig (T020)


Exhibit #3 - ties removed (T005)

I check the area that I'm going to place the ties for any bumps, dips or any other irregularities. I then place a thin coat of Titebond II glue (for its water resistant properties) on the homasote, making sure it is placed in an even, thin coat, then place the ties in the glue. I use a long metal straightedge to press the ties into the glue and check for level along the top of the ties.


Exhibit #4 - ties set in glue (T071)

Once the glue is dry, I remove the tape and the ties are ready for the rail.

To Be Continued..........

[ak-milw]

Better you than me, hand laying track and turnouts isn't for me, but a lot of folks like it. Maybe it's the laziness in me.

[GPdemayo]

Better you than me, hand laying track and turnouts isn't for me, but a lot of folks like it. Maybe it's the laziness in me.

Andy:

It really isn't as bad as you think. Once you get a rhythm going, it gets done in no time.
 
The ties go down quickly and the new spike putting in thingy makes the installation of the rail go much quicker than when I used needle nose pliers years ago. I'll get into that in a couple of posts.
 
About the switches..... the first few were slow and not so good, but now that I'm comfortable and have developed a little assembly line system, I can turn one out in about 15 to 20 minutes. I love the way they look and am real happy with the way they operate, especially at very slow speeds with a small loco.
 
All in all, hand laying takes a little more time, but I really like the results and am much happier with the flexibility that it gives to a layout plan. It is not as daunting as most people think and given a little practice most everyone could get excellent results in no time.

[GPdemayo]

The placing of the ties goes quickly. I have found that even though I could put 36" of ties in the jig at once, it seems to go better with the 9" length. The glue sets up to much if I try to spread out a thin layer for 36", but is just about right at 9".
 
I started in Phase 1 at the chemical plant siding and worked my way upgrade toward the brewery with the 8'-6" cross ties. This batch of ties were left over from the 80's and took the creosote stain just fine. 
 

Exhibit #1 - first cross ties (T006)
 
The switch ties should be placed first, but they weren't dry enough and I got a bad case of getgoingitis and couldn't wait. All did work out okay after I placed the switch ties. Note the 8'-0" ties at the brewery, they were left over, lightly stained ties from the 80's and have a nice worn look for this siding.
 

Exhibit #2 - ties at brewery siding (T012)



Exhibit #3 - ties at brewery siding (T014)
 
I have skipped around a bit using the 8'-6" ties for the branchline that I had left. I have ordered more, but they seem to be very slow in arriving - about 8 weeks so far. had left. I began the 3 yard tracks and hope to have enough ties to get one track complete up to its switch.

 
Exhibit #4 - start of yard cross ties (T042)
 
Butty Group guy, Jim Miller, had a bunch of 8'-0" Campbell ties left over from his hand laying days and he donated these to the cause. I have them stained and will begin to place them on a few of the sidings.
 
More To Come Soon.....

[jbvb]

I have used some commercially-cut ties, but my usual source is 3/32 x 1/16" basswood (Northeastern Craftsman Supply is about 45 min. away) and some time with my NWSL Chopper.

[GPdemayo]

I have used some commercially-cut ties, but my usual source is 3/32 x 1/16" basswood (Northeastern Craftsman Supply is about 45 min. away) and some time with my NWSL Chopper.

James:


I admire you're efforts in cutting your own ties. I generally am in such a hurry to get to laying track that I don't want to take the time to cut up strip wood before I begin.


Thanks for following along and don't be shy about posting some pictures of your trackwork!