The Shay Wood Miter

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime


Cool tool, now I want one.  I don't use my chopper for anything over 1/16 of an inch if the edge needs to be square.  It's a good thing we were not bidding against each other.     Steve I'm going to pull the Gazette issue out and take a look.

Indeed it is good you weren't bidding against me. Rumor has it retired people have ALL the money. I'm still a working stiff 


Jaime

[Oldguy]

I have one sitting on the shelf.  My razor blades do not fit it.  There is a small lip for the thick metal on the back side of the blade and mine drop down further, causing the blade to be angled.  That and the attached ruler is a joke.

[NEMMRRC]

I have one sitting on the shelf.  My razor blades do not fit it.  There is a small lip for the thick metal on the back side of the blade and mine drop down further, causing the blade to be angled.  That and the attached ruler is a joke.

Yes.The ruler included isn't even my scale. But I can overlook that. I do wonder if my stock of razor blades will fit it properly.


The blade on mine says "009 RD". Albeit, one side of the blade fits better than the other.


Jaime

[Oldguy]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends of the razor blade and raise it up for it to be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

[NEMMRRC]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends and raise the blade up for it top be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

All I got was the tool itself. I had no idea it came with a service manual.


Jaime

[jbvb]

The steel handle you press on might be the problem.  If you have something that would serve as an anvil, or a vise big enough to bolt to a bench, either would serve to reduce the angle of the 90 degree bend a bit, so the part you put your hand on rides higher and doesn't strike the supports before the blade is all the way down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_rQRDncEUs

Darryl Huffman YT video title says it shows how to build one.  But his was actually built by someone else and the video is a critique.  His tool uses mostly 1/8" hot-rolled steel strip. I see 5 bends, 4 could be made cold over an anvil.  The L-shaped handle would need heat and a little bit of blacksmithing, but in a unit which wasn't going to be shipped assembled, the L shape is unnecessary.  He wishes it had more capacity, which is easy to arrange by scaling all the pantograph dimensions up.

[Oldguy]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends and raise the blade up for it top be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

All I got was the tool itself. I had no idea it came with a service manual.


Jaime

I'll send you copy.

[NEMMRRC]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends and raise the blade up for it top be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

All I got was the tool itself. I had no idea it came with a service manual.


Jaime

I'll send you copy.

Thank you!
Jaime

[Oldguy]

The steel handle you press on might be the problem.  If you have something that would serve as an anvil, or a vise big enough to bolt to a bench, either would serve to reduce the angle of the 90 degree bend a bit, so the part you put your hand on rides higher and doesn't strike the supports before the blade is all the way down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_rQRDncEUs

Darryl Huffman YT video title says it shows how to build one.  But his was actually built by someone else and the video is a critique.  His tool uses mostly 1/8" hot-rolled steel strip. I see 5 bends, 4 could be made cold over an anvil.  The L-shaped handle would need heat and a little bit of blacksmithing, but in a unit which wasn't going to be shipped assembled, the L shape is unnecessary.  He wishes it had more capacity, which is easy to arrange by scaling all the pantograph dimensions up.

The wood miter came as a kit.  Just a box of metal parts and a bag of hardware.  During it's run, changes were made.  Mine is slightly different than Darryl's.

[Oldguy]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends and raise the blade up for it top be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

All I got was the tool itself. I had no idea it came with a service manual.


Jaime

I'll send you copy.

Thank you!
Jaime

Let's see if this works.

[NEMMRRC]

Did you get the instruction/assembly diagram?  I had to remove the screws from both ends and raise the blade up for it top be usable.  That and add a small chunk of left over cutting mat to go under the blade.

All I got was the tool itself. I had no idea it came with a service manual.


Jaime

I'll send you copy.

Thank you!
Jaime

Let's see if this works.

S U C C E S S  !!!


I thank you kindly.


Jaime

[darrylhuffman]

Jaime,

I saw that a Shay Wood Miter sold on eBay recently.

If the buyer was you, congratulations.

I stocked these in my Train Shop in Alaska when they first became available.

They did not sell well, perhaps because of the limitations you spoke about.

My friend, Max Corey, figured out what modifications needed to be made for the original version to work right.

I'm sorry but I don't remember what they were.  In 45 years, the details have been forgotten.

I found the original aluminum lever would break at the bend.

I also had the 1/8th by 1/8 clear plexiglass strip which serves to hold the wood in place while the blade cuts downward broke off on the left hand side of the blade.

I recommend reinforcing that piece now by gluing another piece of styrene behind it.

If I am building a project that requires a lot of pieces exactly the same, I use a mini-chop saw.

I stain my wood and then form then into a block.  Say 1 inch by 1 inch.

I thin Elmers glue about 10 to 1 and use this to glue the sticks into a solid block.

After the dries I use the mini-chopsaw to cut the block into the desired length.

Toss these blocks into a container filled with water.

The next day the come apart easily.  Let dry and they are ready to use.

For most of the past 50 years I have built O scale models board by board using balloon framing like the prototype.

I use this method to produce 2 by 4 studs a hundred at a time.

But for most applications, I use the Shay Wood Miter.

I keep in my rights hand when building any model.

The corners are 90 degrees and are great for holding wood in place while the glue dries.

I also use it as a weight for the same purpose

I found the ruler to be useless and threw it away.

I lightly glue a piece of graph paper to the left of the blade.

I use the squares as a guide for cutting angles.

I also use fine tip Sharpies to mark certain angles on the paper.

When it get to bu unusable, I soak it in water and it easily peels off.

I then put a fresh piece of paper in place.

The round set screw on your unit can be replaced with a thumb screw.  Easier to use.

I never use this tool to cut styrene.  I do occasionally use it to lightly score styrene before stalling it.

This will become one of your favorite tools once you get past the learning phase.

I would not sell mine for $1,000.

[ACL1504]

This certainly is a neat tool. I've looked at the one on Facebook. Although I like the idea of having one, I can't justify the cost. I've never needed one in the past and rarely, if ever, use the size strip wood this thing will cut/slice.

The use of the razor saw and metal mitre box, along with the NWSL Chopper, has worked just fine all these years.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Tom 

[NEMMRRC]

Thanks for all the great tips, Darryl. I'll definitely get the most out of this cool tool.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

This certainly is a neat tool. I've looked at the one on Facebook. Although I like the idea of having one, I can't justify the cost. I've never needed one in the past and rarely, if ever, use the size strip wood this thing will cut/slice.

The use of the razor saw and metal mitre box, along with the NWSL Chopper, has worked just fine all these years.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Tom 

Lately I used mi miter to slice up some glazing for windows. I make a strip the desired width and then slice up the required lengths. I often wonder how some justify the cost of those super expensive mini table saws and such. I guess it's good to have options.


Jaime