Fountain Brewery kitbash #2 - 2021 winter build challenge

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Well I got a bit done on the shop front and the grouting done on the building.  A little while ago I bought an expensive white pastel chalk and today was the first time I have tried it.  It scraped off much finer an easier with a razor blade and adhered better to the brickwork than the cheap brand I usually use.  This meant it stuck a bit more to the actual bricks rather than just going in the mortar lines.  I liked the effect for a change, feeling it looked like efflorescence.

Photo 1 - shows the service freight entrance and the risque sign.

Photo 2 - shows the large sign at the back.

Photo 3 - shows the service center street entrance.  I will put a small veranda over this door.

Photo 4 - shows the structure from the front.

Photo 5 - shows the sales shopfront coming together.  The gable is just sitting in position.  The pieces of styrene glued to the back of the clapboard squared and shored things up nicely.

Photo 6 - shows the structure on an angle.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful.  How did you get the brick pattern to show through the sign?

[Mark Dalrymple]

Beautiful.  How did you get the brick pattern to show through the sign?

Thanks, Curt.

Its a combination of really embossing the signage deeply into the brickwork and the extra adhesive properties of the more expensive pastel chalk.  Getting the sign as thin as you can helps, but I think when you place a piece of baking paper over the signage you can really go to town with your fingernail without damaging the sign.

Cheers, Mark.

[Keep It Rusty]

Excellent brick work, Mark. And I second that parchment paper trick — it really does make a difference!

[S&S RR]

Mark


Very fine modeling, my friend.  I love the signs and the brick work. Is the expensive chalk finer? And/or  does it have a binder that is helping it stick to the brick face?

[Mark Dalrymple]

Excellent brick work, Mark. And I second that parchment paper trick — it really does make a difference!

Thanks, Craig.

I like the oversized bricks too.  I also find I get good results using the Wills plasticard brick, which is also oversized, but comes in three different courses.  Having said that, I think the sign that came up the best is the big one on the back wall and that is done on City Classics brickwork. which is much more in scale with standard prototype brick course size.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Very fine modeling, my friend.  I love the signs and the brick work. Is the expensive chalk finer? And/or  does it have a binder that is helping it stick to the brick face?

Thanks, John.

'And' is your answer.  I definitely noticed it was finer when scraping it onto the brickwork with my razor blade.  The down side to this was I put a bit much on and went through more chalk than I usually do.  After swirling the chalk dust evenly around on a wall I work the chalk in using the natural oils on my fingers (these run out rapidly and you have to keep changing fingers and hands).  When doing this step I noticed the chalk bonding to the texture of the brick faces.  Like I said, though, I liked the look for something a bit different.  Anyway, a quick blast with dullcote will soon dissolve the majority of the chalk if you're not happy.  I fix my walls with artists pastel/ pencil fixative - although I hear non scented hairspray works well, too.

Cheers, Mark.

[Jerry]

Wonderful work Mark!!


Signs are perfect!!


Jerry

[Opa George]

Mark, the brickwork and signage are top notch.  It's looking excellent.  Your results with the better grade of chalks is indeed noticeable and to my eyes produces a very convincing old brick wall effect.

Thanks for the parchment paper tip.  I wouldn't have thought of that, but will give it a try.

--Opa George

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark, the brickwork and signage are top notch.  It's looking excellent.  Your results with the better grade of chalks is indeed noticeable and to my eyes produces a very convincing old brick wall effect.

Thanks for the parchment paper tip.  I wouldn't have thought of that, but will give it a try.

Thanks very much, George.

I had to look parchment paper up to check its the same thing (which it is).  Here we call it lunch paper, baking paper or grease proof paper.  All the same thing.

Cheers, Mark.

[nycjeff]

Hello Mark, what a good job on both the brick and the signs. It all looks great.    Jeff

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hello Mark, what a good job on both the brick and the signs. It all looks great.

Thanks so much, Jeff!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

I've been off on a planning tangent over the last week, so there were several days with no progress.

Next up was to build the walk over.  I sized things up and cut a piece of clapboard to the right shape.  I found some appropriate small windows, spaced and marked these and cut the openings.  The clapboard (along with some scrap siding for the underneath) was given my dose of weathering - golden titan buff followed by my alcohol and leather dye mix.  I then painted the siding with Floquil foundation.  I used a fine brush and kind of bounced it along on the underside of the lap where the paint stays on the longest in real life.  Nail holes were added with a compass, one row down each window opening stud and a couple more where I thought the span warranted it.  Then it was another dose of alcohol and leather dye.  I assembled the top, bottom and front, attaching rectangles of styrene internally to keep things square and true.  The windows were given a blast of dullcote and then painted roof brown.  I dusted with white chalk when dry to weather.  These were glazed and then glued into position.

Photo 1 - shows the walkover from the back.

Any visible material through the windows was painted black.  I then attached the back and trimmed slightly trying to get a nice tight fit.  I then chiseled off the sills and lintels in the way of the walk over, and glued it into position.  When dry I cut and carefully positioned high tack painters tape to represent rolled roofing.  This will be painted and weathered.

Photo 2 - shows the walk over glued in position.

I made up a sign for above the shop front.  I attached 4"x2" weathered timber to a piece of painters tap attached sticky side up to my cutting mat.  I painted the letters I wanted (vector cut) in blue, cut them out, and attached them to the 4"x2" timber.  When done I prized one end of the 4"x2" off and glued a 4"x2" underneath at right angles.  I then did the same at the other end.  I then flipped the sign over and added three more vertical timbers.  I then made up 2 triangles to attach the sign to the wall.

Photos 3&4 - show the sign coming together.

Finally I added some signage to the window front.

Photo 5 - shows the shop front as it is now.

In other work all the structure has been glazed and weathered blinds added, and I painted up the bicycle.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful work Mark. Is the name a off take from the show Portlandia?

[Mark Dalrymple]

Beautiful work Mark. Is the name a off take from the show Portlandia?

Thanks, Curt.

No - the name is the actual name of the company from the time period I model (and earlier - 1893).  It is a play on the name of our country - New Zealand - Zealand(ia).

Thanks for following along and for all your comments.

Cheers, Mark.