3D Anycubic Photon

[Bernd]

Ok, I'm going to get into the "additive manufacturing" mode with the Anycubic Photon printer.

I needed a faster computer to run Fusion 360 and one that has Windows 10 on it. I did not want to update my Windows 7 Professional software because I have software running for my CNC Sherline mill. So I purchased the computer equipment from Tiger Direct. Took a bit of time to get here due to the weather the past couple of weeks. So new screen, track ball and keyboard plus the computer itself.



The printer is a used printer that is in excellent condition purchased from a fellow model railroader who was upgrading to a larger printer. Thank you Craig (aka Rusty Robot)

Looking forward to making small HO scale parts that can be then used for table top plastic injection molding using epoxy resin molds. When I'll get to do all this is up in the air. I won't be printing anytime soon since I hear the resin stinks up the place and I don't want to upset the wife with the smell. I have a ventilation idea planned for winter use in the basement. First though I need to down load Fusion 360 and learn that program. So don't look for any updates soon on this new adventure. If I do any printing I'll be sure to post the what and how.

Bernd

[Keep It Rusty]

Can't wait to see your progress, Bernd. She looks great sat there.

One thing I should've mentioned, the smell of resin really isn't noticeable at all. I think it's very overplayed in reviews etc... Truth be told, I would only ever smell the resin when I opened the door once it was finished and even then I'd have to stick my head up near to even get a whiff.

[JimMooney]

Yeah  have on too...biggest hump I had was supports. Ended up using a different slicer. Anycubic slicer is a little awkward. watched a lot of utube movies on supports too... good luck!

[Keep It Rusty]

Jim, I recommend the slicer "Chitubox". Free, works with most printers, and they've just released an update that makes support handling even better. Makes the Anycubic slicer look like junk.

[Bernd]

Jim, I recommend the slicer "Chitubox". Free, works with most printers, and they've just released an update that makes support handling even better. Makes the Anycubic slicer look like junk.

Hey Craig,

Getting another computer March 11 from best Buys. Convinced the wife if I get it there I can take the other one in a couple of months to get fixed and then she can have an updated computer.

Good to hear the smell isn't that bad. I was thinking of installing some ducting out the basement window. May not have to do that.

I've been playing around with Chitubox. I download a spoked HO scale wheel from Thingverse. Imported it and see what I could do. Looks like I need to watch a few more videos on the how to's.

I'll be using Fusion 360. It was recommended to me on the other forum. I've watched many videos on Fusion 360, don't remember the guy's name when I do I'll post it, and it doesn't look to bad to learn. I guess using 2D cad at home for a while to make parts on the CNC Sherline helped out.

Bernd

[Janbouli]

I am getting one of these soon , is there any software I can already get acquainted with before I get the printer?

[Keep It Rusty]

Fusion is a great app to learn. Personally, I use the online tool "Tinkercad". It's simplicity suits me down to the ground.

Jan, it depends if you want to design & print or just print? The above mentioned apps are great place to start of wanting to design. Regardless, getting to know a "slicer" like Chitubux is a must. As Jim mentioned above, supports is the one hurdle for most folks entering 3D printing so getting to know your slicer early is a good idea.

[Janbouli]

Fusion is a great app to learn. Personally, I use the online tool "Tinkercad". It's simplicity suits me down to the ground.

Jan, it depends if you want to design & print or just print? The above mentioned apps are great place to start of wanting to design. Regardless, getting to know a "slicer" like Chitubux is a must. As Jim mentioned above, supports is the one hurdle for most folks entering 3D printing so getting to know your slicer early is a good idea.

Thanks will be looking into all three . I am stagnating on which of the Anycubic to buy , or maybe even an other brand , price differences are small, so it's a bit "forest for the trees" for me.

[Keep It Rusty]

Anycubic were my first choice when I got into 3D printing.

I've now moved onto Elegoo, as I find their larger printers much better value (I now have the elusive Elegoo Saturn, which is some $300 cheaper than the comparative printer from Anycubic).

I'd recommend any of the following:

Anycubic Photon
Elegoo Mars
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K (which has the best resolution, but at higher cost)

[Bernd]

Jan,

I started watching Fusion 360 how videos by Paul McWhorter. He has 13 lessons called "Learn Fusion 360 or Die Trying". Link below to his 13 lessons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5tp4QXciK4&list=PLGs0VKk2DiYx15SfBxO_VE6ELhpy0VnAw&ab_channel=PaulMcWhorter

As far as slicers go I downloaded Chitubox. I found this guy on You Tube that explained the placing of supports. The title is "Part 1: Intro to Chitubox and supporting minis like a pro, the first in a line of videos to come!"  Link below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY&ab_channel=3DPrintingPro

I think the guys that do these war gaming figures probably know the best on where to put supports with all those appendages needing support. I also down loaded a file from Thingerverse called "Train / loco / wagon wheel in 1:87 - HO". The picture caught my eye because it was a spoked wheel design. Something I've been looking for. I've used that in Chitubox to learn how to use the software.

LINK: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3824693

So, that's the software on my learn how to use list.

Any of you guys have more info on resin printing, not only on the Anycubic but others also, add your information to this thread. No worry about hijacking as long as it pretains to resin printing. Thanks.

Bernd

[Keep It Rusty]

One area overlooked is the clean up after each print.

I use Anycubic's Wash & Cure machine for ease, but the bare essentials is a large container of rubbing alcohol or Denatured Alcohol (readily available at good prices in current climate). Also a UV lamp source to cure each print (most folks use UV lamps used in nail salons). Also, the clean up of the printer's vat (which I do only if a print failed and has left parts behind that could disrupt the next print).

Here's are some must-have consumables:
NITRILE (not latex) gloves.
Blue shop towels.
Paper filters with wire mesh (for decanting resin back to container).
Scrapers (both plastic and metal).

[Rail and Tie]

I would definitely agree with the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K if you can afford the extra cost. Especially if you want to do tiny N scale bits Jan. Think of it like a printer. the more dots per inch, the better the resolution. that means 35micron resolution vs 50 to 55micron with the equivalent 2K screens.  This translates to about a 40% to 50% increase which is quite noticeable on small features. Not as much of an issue in HO, but big difference in N Scale.


The other essential items that I have found are the very thin metal artists pallet knife/spatula. These are handy for getting under the supports to separate them from the build platform. They are thinner than the typical scraper that comes with the average 3d printer. very useful for really small delicate parts.

Paper towels

Also, Tamiya Sharp pointed low angle sprue cutters. 74123.  Can't speak highly enough about these as the low jaw angle reduces the amount of stress on the sprue as it cuts so it does not shatter the brittle 3D resin parts. The higher angle cutters like Zuron etc actually squeeze the sprue and pushes it apart which makes for a messier cut and can damage the part. They are also excellent for nipping rafter tails and strip stock!
Amazon.com: Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter NO.123 (74123): Toys & Games


I would  say that 99% Isopropyl Alcohol is required to properly clean uncured resin from your parts.  The 70% does not cut it and you will quickly wind up with sticky parts.

Oh, and paper towels.

I use Pickle containers like these for my secondary rinse after doing an ultrasound cleaning, but you can just use the pickle jar for agitated cleaning by moving the basket up and down with the parts in it submerged clean IPA.
Starfrit 094498 Pickle Jar, 1.2L Container with Strainer, Transparent: Amazon.ca: Home & Kitchen


A squeeze bulb to dry your parts and get resin/ipa out from in between tight areas. Hany to make sure your tiny parts are super clean.
VSGO Handy Mini Air Blower Duster for DSLR Camera, Black (DDA-9-Black): Amazon.ca: Camera & Photo


Lastly I can recommend  a nail curing station like this is a cheap and easy solution for post curing the resin parts.
NailStar Professional 36 Watt UV Nail Dryer Nail Lamp for Gel with 120 and 180 Second Timers + 4 x 9W Bulbs Included: Amazon.ca: Beauty

Plan on an area that is going to get messy when processing parts. No matter how careful you are, you are going to get some uncured resin on something.

Did we mention paper towels?  Lots of them.

And a dedicated covered garbage can close by to dispose of gloves and soiled paper towels, etc. the ones that you step on a pedal with your foot work well and contain some of the resin odor.

Sorry Bernd, did not mean to hijack your thread, but hope this can be useful information as it can be frustrating starting out in 3D printing until one gets the hang of things.

[Janbouli]

Oh , wow , thank you all for the reply's , great help , hope you don't mind taking over your thread like this Bernd.

Looking into all 3 those printers , going to buy the best I can afford .

[Bernd]

Oh , wow , thank you all for the reply's , great help , hope you don't mind taking over your thread like this Bernd.

Looking into all 3 those printers , going to buy the best I can afford .

Jan,

Don't mind having info posted on the thread. No way is that hi-jacking the thread. This way we can keep info in one place and not have to go searching all over the net for answers. So if you have some pertinent information to add to the subject, please do.

Glad this is helping you out in deciding what to purchase.

Once you've decided and purchased please add it to this thread.

Bernd

[Janbouli]

Some of the reviews I read on the Phrozen noted problems with the Z-axle , seriously thinking about this one because of the 4K , will be printing tiny things , so need the best detail possible for the budget . The Phrozen is 400 Euro , a 100 more then the Elegoo and the Anycubic. Should I wait till there are more affordable 4K's out there?