Fos Execution Rocks

[madharry]

Thanks Jim I appreciate you following along.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing.............

TIP when separating the dormer fronts from their carrier sheet it is a good idea to add the windows first in order to give the part some solidity. Otherwise it is easy for the part to break as you are cutting them out. How do I know that?

Mike 

[postalkarl]

Hi Mike:

Sounds like fun with those dormers. The best dormers I ever saw were by Microscale Models. They were 1 piece cast plaster. You just added the roof.

Karl 5

Karl

[madharry]

That's cheating Karl, only kidding..............

Continuing.....

Here are the parts separated from the carrier sheets. Even with my precautions I broke two window fronts. There is a spare in the kit and some spare sides as well but if you break too many..............

I will paint the edges of the roofs white next.

Mike

[postalkarl]

Hi Mike:

Can't you glue them back together if they break?

Karl

[madharry]

Yes you can for the fronts but the sides are so small you would probably need to cut from new stock, hence the spares supplied by Fos.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing............... I cut sideposts for the front walls. These were cut overlong and then trimmed back. Afterwards I aged the walls slightly by adding grain to the walls by scribing them horizontally with a blade.

Then the side walls were added.

Mike

[bparrish]

Mike...

On the cross grained dormer fronts that are so fragile........ consider this.

When you first start handling them put them face down on a work surface and pull a small amount of yellow wood worker's glue across the back.  Not a lot. then hold them down with plastic wrap or tin foil and weight them to stop any curing.  The glue will kick off as there is enough air in the wood.  An hour or two is enough.

Super glue will work also and not have a curl problem.  Once you commit to super glue in this area everything that will attach to it must also have super glue.  You can move away from it on another adjoining surface.

That will give the wood enough body to be able to handle them into a larger structure.

see ya
Bob

[madharry]

Great info Bob, thanks I've got around the problem.

Anyone building this kit needs to be aware of the fragile nature of these parts.

Mike 

[madharry]

Continuing..............

To the roofs. I've decided to shingle the roofs before I glue the dormers to the building. I think this will give me more control and hopefully make a better job of it.

I've added double sided tape to the roofs in readiness for shingling.

Mike

[madharry]

Roofs are shingled!!!

Mike

[madharry]

Progress so far with dormers and tower roof fitted..............

Mike

[madharry]

Next up I decided to finish the entrance area at the bottom of the tower. The entrance door opening I had braced on both sides but it only needs bracing on the side which fits into the P5 wall.  I removed the extra bracing and broke the part and had to repair it. Fortunately it does not show.

I had to cut out a little piece of wall P5 in order to fit around my earlier bracing piece. No problem as it does not show.

I glazed the top windows on the door entrance with Canopy Glue. I also used Canopy Glue to glue the doors together on a piece of acetate. Once dry I cut the glazed doors out and glued them into the door frame.

To complete the construction I added L28 the ceiling piece.

Mike Carter

[madharry]

Continuing... I prepared the walls for the "little bump outs" as Fos describes them - the boiler annex and other addition.

The walls were braced and corner trim applied. As always I glue the trim on extra long and then cut it back and finally use a fine emery board to fine tune it.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...

Next I fitted a 2x10 parapet cap atop the mansard roof sections. Under the 2x10's I added 2x4 trim pieces to the top of the shingles. I cut the pieces overlong and them measured a piece to fit between the angles.

Mike