Winter Challenge 2024/2025 - Flat Iron Corner Building - Tom Langford.

[ACL1504]

I painted the lampshade a dark green, the arm and escutcheon weathered black. While the weathered black was drying, I added Bragdon Rust colored pigment for the rusty appearance.



Back in a few. I'm over due for a Diet Pepsi! 

[ACL1504]

I drilled holes in the wall for both lights and glued them in place.



Let there be light.



Done for today.

[Vietnam Seabee]

Let there be light...looking great
terry

[PRR Modeler]

Great lighting effects Tom.

[nycjeff]

Hello Tom, you sure are putting a lot of effort into this build. I'm enjoying every bit of it and also am getting ideas that I can use on some of my future builds. Thank you.

[elwoodblues]

Howdy Tom, nice work on the lights.  Ngineering stuff is great.  I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale.  Have fun, mike

Mike, Howdy,

Thank you sir. Ngineering has sure changed how I light structures. Maybe one day they will do some O scale lights. I don't think it would be to difficult to do.

Still having fun.

Tom

Tom,

I have used the HO scale goosenecks on a couple of O scale buildings, I find that they look right in O scale.

[Rick]

Tom, thanks for going into more detail on using the yellow paint on the lights.

[elwoodblues]

the gooseneck lights look great Tom.

One question though, did you anneal the stainless tubing before bending it?

Enjoy dinner with Pam.

Ron,

Thank you. No, It isn't necessary to anneal the stainless tubing. Well, let me put it this way, I never have and it has not been a problem and many of my goose neck lights have never had any issues. However, I guess you could, but that process may also melt the thin coating on the LED wires causing a short.

Tom

Tom,

The reason I asked is that I use a completely different method on making my goosenecks.  First thing I do is anneal the stainless tubing.  Once annealed I insert a stainless rod into the tubing before bending.  This prevents the tubing wall from collapsing during the bending process.  Once bent the rod is extracted and then the leads of the LED can be fed through the tubing.

[elwoodblues]

Tom,

The finished and installed lights look fantastic.  I never thought of using clear yellow paint to warm up the lights.  Back in the day the only white LED's had a deep blue hue to them and I used orange clear paint to get the incandescent light look to them.  Today I used warm white LED's.  The next time I need recolour a LED, I'll try the clear yellow paint.

[ACL1504]

Let there be light...looking great
terry

Terry,

Thank you. Good to see you today.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Great lighting effects Tom.

Curt, 

Thanks my friend. Good to see you today also.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Hello Tom, you sure are putting a lot of effort into this build. I'm enjoying every bit of it and also am getting ideas that I can use on some of my future builds. Thank you.

Jeff,

Thank you sir. Yes, I am as it is going on the layout and is right next to the center isle for visitors to see up close in every detail.

Happy to hear you are getting some good tips for future builds.

Your build looks great as well.

Tom 

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Tom, thanks for going into more detail on using the yellow paint on the lights.

Rick,

You are very welcome sir.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Tom,

The finished and installed lights look fantastic.  I never thought of using clear yellow paint to warm up the lights.  Back in the day the only white LED's had a deep blue hue to them and I used orange clear paint to get the incandescent light look to them.  Today I used warm white LED's.  The next time I need recolour a LED, I'll try the clear yellow paint.

Ron,

I appreciate the compliment on the build. I never bend this tubing at 90 degrees, well not yet anyway, so maybe the tubing will collapse then. Question, how can you remove the inserted tube after the stainless tube is bent?

Tom 

[Philip]

Thanks Tom! Very good instructions on tinting those lil Led's.