Wichendon Machine Shop (restart)

Started by deemery, May 12, 2025, 12:43:22 PM

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jbvb

Looks good, Dave. 1890s electric lighting was fairly common in urban areas, particularly where there was hydropower. Edison figured out the carbon filament in 1879 and streetcar development took off after 1888.  But there was also gas lighting, usually from coal.
James

deemery

I wonder what the fire risk would be from gas lighting in a machine shop....

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

jbvb

Quote from: deemery on November 26, 2025, 11:50:06 AMI wonder what the fire risk would be from gas lighting in a machine shop....

dave
My thought, not deeply researched: At worst, comparable to the forge, the ?coal fired? boiler for the stationary engine and steam heat, or the kerosene lamps they'd otherwise use.
James

deemery

#408
Quote from: jbvb on November 26, 2025, 12:46:44 PM
Quote from: deemery on November 26, 2025, 11:50:06 AMI wonder what the fire risk would be from gas lighting in a machine shop....

dave
My thought, not deeply researched: At worst, comparable to the forge, the ?coal fired? boiler for the stationary engine and steam heat, or the kerosene lamps they'd otherwise use.

Yeah, the forge is a bit of a stretch from a fire hazard perspective, I added that because it made functional sense and the Sierra West parts worked well.  I did consider doing electric 'arc lamps' lighting, easy to do with LEDs. 

This morning I glued the two pair of loading doors into position.  One set on the back wall, which was previously installed (and it was hard to position the doors).  The other set is glued onto the clear wall before I mount it, I'll touch that with some CA to help lock the doors into position.  Then I'll glue the acrylic wall to the model.  I used Canopy Glue to attach the wood door frame to the acrylic, that seems to be holding well, so I'll use Canopy Glue for the wall to framing.

add Here's the doors installed into the acrylic.  There's a piece of .040 square behind each door to provide a better gluing (CA) surface.  Those are hidden by the door framing.  The acrylic pretty much snaps into place, I might not glue it but just depend on that friction fit.  But I will add appropriate trim on the corners of the structure. The roof panel is also a nice tight friction fit.  Being able to remove the acrylic to clean or repair any damage is probably A Good Thing.
IMG_1243.jpeg
Next step:  add the resistors and figure out the overall wiring.  Hopefully I don't mess that up and release Magic Smoke on the LEDs.

another add Lights are wired.  In retrospect, I should have added more lighting. 
IMG_1244.jpeg

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

deemery

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Dave Buchholz

You can get current controlled power boards from "We Honest" on eBay. There are several types of connections available in each board with a potentimeter to adjust overall brightnessScreenshot_20251126-185123.png
New home of the North Coast Railroad, along the shores of Lake Ontario

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Bernd

That lighting looks interesting with the windows looking like they are hanging in mid-air. The Levitating Window Co. <lol>

That does look good being able to see what's inside without havng to lift the roof off everytime somebody wants to see the inside.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

deemery

#413
Quote from: Bernd on November 27, 2025, 08:44:08 AMThat lighting looks interesting with the windows looking like they are hanging in mid-air. The Levitating Window Co. <lol>

That does look good being able to see what's inside without havng to lift the roof off everytime somebody wants to see the inside.

Bernd
And all the interesting stuff is on the ground floor, so you'd have to lift off the 2nd story too...

add  The Levitating Windows just add to the "magic" of a see-through wall.  You get the sense of the wall layout, and don't lose a lot of visibility because this kit (and this structure) had a lot of natural light/window exposure. 

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

deemery

#414
Well, I'm back at this, after losing about 5 days due to taking care of a sick dog.  (Didn't want to be in the basement when she decided "I need to go out IMMEDIATELY!")  I glued most of the corner trim into position (back wall, boiler room) and clamped that.  I also finally figured out the various parts for the trim, in some cases AFTER I cut alternative pieces.  That's OK, but the instructions for this kit were definitely "minimal".  Still, I'm back to making progress. 

IMG_1254.jpeg  IMG_1253.jpeg
(You can't have too many clamps...)

Tomorrow I'll do the corner trim attached to the acrylic front wall.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

swisstrain

Very nice job, Dave.

I think the idea with the acrylic wall instead of trying to create a removable wall (which, based on my experience shared earlier in this thread would have been near impossible) is really successful.

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