This thread was started on another forum in 2012 but I'll finish it here. The thread was started when I still had the old layout in operation. The layout in the following photos is now history.
I'm not in a hurry as I have other layout projects going as well. These repairs aren't as bad as I've had in the past. This thread will also show ya'll some much needed extra details as thoseI did on Frank Baker's, Erieman, Erie loco.
Here are two photos of my intended victim. 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070216173001.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070216173018.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I'll give you a little history on the loco as well. The loco is a USRA Heavy Mountain, 4-8-2 and in 1978 retailed for $190.00. The locomotive was imported by Key Imports and was built by Samhongsa of Korea. Only 200 of this model were made.
I purchased this model off Ebay in 2011 for $220.00.
Over a period of time, back when brass locos were king, Sunset Models, Gem, and Akane have all released the heavy USRA version of the 4-8-2 mountain type. Key Imports at the time made the best version of the Heavy Mountains. Over the years this model has sold on Ebay for as little as $114.00 and as much as $475.00. For property, location is everything and for Ebay, timing is everything.
NOTICE: I'd like to add here a little sage advice. If you aren't familiar with working, repairing, and or painting brass locomotives my advice is to NOT buy one off Ebay.
Mr. Forrest Gump said it best. "You never know what you are going to get"!
On Ebay this loco looked fine and I didn't ask any questions. I figured if there was an issue I could fix it.
In the above two photos the loco looks fine. Right? The red foam stains and tarnish are no big deal. Key Imports always used the red foam. The red stain is caused by the red dye leaching out of the foam and staining the clear coat on the brass. Some people think the tarnish look is pitting in the brass but it isn't.
The tarnishing is nothing more than the clear coat breaking down and the brass getting discolored.
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070216173035.jpeg)
Notice anything funny or strange in the above photo. The front driver is about 3/8 inch off the rail.
While I'm at it, the two crosshead guides are not level. These are the two silver colored bars coming out of the steam chest. These hold the crosshead in place as it slides back and forth. The crosshead is bolted to the main siderods.
Also, the single action air pump is pushed up and onto the bottom of the boiler. The second and back brake shoes are broken and missing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070216173111.jpeg)
So, take my advise and always ask the seller questions about the item you want to bid on. A question I should have asked was "Is there anything broken or missing on the loco.". Of course the seller can come back and say, "Not to my knowledge but I don't know anything about brass." Catch 22 for sure.
Tomorrow I'll solve the mystery of the raised front driver. I'm already anxious to get to the painting process.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom
T~,
I remember this train movie! However, being a guy I love reruns! Thanx Thom...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tJGk4ofc18
I am sitting here waiting Tom!
8)
Quote from: tct855 on February 07, 2016, 06:22:06 PM
T~,
I remember this train movie! However, being a guy I love reruns! Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thanks for following along yet one more time.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ak-milw on February 07, 2016, 06:50:37 PM
I am sitting here waiting Tom!
8)
Andy,
I'll be posting again to this in a few minutes.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 07, 2016, 05:54:16 PM
NOTICE: I'd like to add here a little sage advice. If you aren't familiar with working, repairing, and or painting brass locomotives my advice is to NOT buy one off Ebay.
NOW he tells me!
Wonder what lurks in those boxes I've accumulated over in the other side of the basement?!
Maybe I'll just pack 'em all up and blame any damages o the move coming up. >:(
Quote from: BandOGuy on February 08, 2016, 02:02:48 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 07, 2016, 05:54:16 PM
NOTICE: I'd like to add here a little sage advice. If you aren't familiar with working, repairing, and or painting brass locomotives my advice is to NOT buy one off Ebay.
NOW he tells me!
Wonder what lurks in those boxes I've accumulated over in the other side of the basement?!
Maybe I'll just pack 'em all up and blame any damages o the move coming up. >:(
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
What me worry?
Tom 8)
Prior to removing the front pilot, I noticed the spring was much to strong. This is what pushed up the front of the locomotive. I then removed the front pilot and found a very large spring and a metal washer. The washer was to thick and to large. The spring was also to strong and much to large for it's intended use.
In the next photo, you can see the large washer and spring on the right. The correct size spring is on the left. Quite a difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216154943.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216154943.jpeg)
The loco drivers all sit correctly on the rails. The spring was an easy fix for this problem.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216155033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216155033.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
It appears the rest of the problems are cosmetic in nature. I'll cover a couple here.
The air pump was bent into the underside of the boiler causing the side rods to jam in the up position. I simply used a pair of long needle nose pliers to carefully and slowly bend the bracket holding the pump back into the correct position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216160200.jpeg)
The pipes and pipe bracket just below the right side running board are loose and need to be re-soldered. The front pipe bracket is bent inward.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216160103.jpeg)
More in a few.
The steam whistle was bent forward and sitting flat on the top of the boiler. I carefully bent it back to being where I feel it belongs. I bent this very slowly as well as I didn't want to break the steam pipe leading to the bottom of the whistle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216160800.jpeg)
The bell cord has been cut and bent back on the sand dome. This will need to be replaced.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216160825.jpeg)
I'll post a little more tomorrow.
Tom,
Your photos make me wonder from what height that locomotive fell from? Doesn't look as if it fell on a carpet, either.
Hi tom,
I am enjoying your post on Frank's locomotive paint project and this. Could you show us some of your soldering techniques you use on the brass locomotives?
Thanks
Steve
Quote from: BandOGuy on February 08, 2016, 04:56:37 PM
Tom,
Your photos make me wonder from what height that locomotive fell from? Doesn't look as if it fell on a carpet, either.
Chip,
I don't think this one fell very far. It appears to be more of a careless mishandling vs. a fall. Definitely not a carpet job here.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on February 08, 2016, 09:23:46 PM
Hi tom,
I am enjoying your post on Frank's locomotive paint project and this. Could you show us some of your soldering techniques you use on the brass locomotives?
Thanks
Steve
Steve,
Thank you, much appreciated. Wow, showing different soldering techniques here may be a little difficult.
I mainly use three different soldering methods. Resistance soldering, mini-torch soldering and just plain old Weller soldering gun. Of course the method I choose depends on the complexity of the needed repair.
I'll try to go into more detail on soldering in future posts.
Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
It appears the small issues are endless on this locomotive. One of the major issues was a very sloppy repair on the front right steps. In the below photo you can see a glob of solder at the front of the running board where it is soldered to the steps.
I'll go into some extra detail on this repair per Steve's request.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090216150642.jpeg)
Once the boiler was off the frame, I attached power to the draw bar and motor. The motor ran very well. However, it could run a little better. The motor is a factory installed Canon can motor. I'll replace this motor with a NWSL Sagami motor which is a much better can motor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090216150700.jpeg)
Notice in the upper photo, the rear bracket on the frame is bent. This bracket has two threaded holes on each side. Two small screws go into the holes to hold the cab on the back of the frame. I used small pliers to gently bend the bracket back into position.
Continued in a few.
The motor to gear housing is supported by a universal joint assembly. This is very quiet and much more reliable than the rubber coupling used on most motors to gear boxes/housings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080216155033.jpeg)
I then removed the motor and gear housing from the loco frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090216150718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090216150718.jpeg)
In the next posting I'll cover the front step repair.
Tom ;D
Awaiting the next "installment" ...
(this is better than the Soap Opera my wife forces me to watch with her)
Quote from: Donato on February 09, 2016, 10:21:22 PM
Awaiting the next "installment" ...
(this is better than the Soap Opera my wife forces me to watch with her)
Wait no longer, I'm about to add a little more. My wife doesn't force me to do anything. That is unless I let her. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Just so you know, I'm the boss of my house-------------when she lets me.
Tom 8)
I unsoldered the front right step and cleaned the area of all the old glob solder and the manufacturers solder. I used a file to fine tune the removal. It was relatively easy to do. During the process the entire running board broke off the smoke box. While it was off, I resoldered the step to the underside of the running board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216144647.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216144716.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216144736.jpeg)
Steve asked me explain how I did this. Sorry, but I didn't take any photos of the process.
Once the old solder was removed, I used a round wire Dremel brush to thoroughly clean the area. I then "tinned" both pieces with a little solder. I used a pair of small neddle nose pliers and clamped the two pieces in the position I wanted to solder them. I used a rubber band on the handle of the pliers to hold them closed.
I then used the small Micro-torch from Micro Mark and heated the two pieces. The "tinned" solder melted and the two pieces were soldered.
Continued in a few.
I have a theory as to why the steps broke off the boiler. It appears the previous owner or someone attempted this repair in the past. I based this on what I could see of where the running board bracket was soldered to the boiler. It was a very poor job and the brackets were not in the position they should be. It appears they were bent back and forth several time and this weakened the bracket straps.
I'll admit here that I used a short cut to make the repair. This is something I never, can't say that anymore, do on a repair.
The proper repair would have been to unsolder the old straps pieces, make new ones and solder these into position under the running boards and onto the boiler. I used the old existing straps.
I used the round wire Dremel brush , cleaned the brass and polished the area of repair. A brass loco has a clear coat on it and polishing the brass will give you a better soldering base. Simply stated, the solder will not adhere to the model with the clear coat and or brass colored paint on the loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150417.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150431.jpeg)
You can see the difference in the brass and the highly polished brass.
Continued in a few.
I then applied a little solder rosin to the ends of the broken straps and to the boiler side where the straps came off. The rosin lets the solder flow easier to the cleaned areas.
I then used a pencil soldering iron and "tinned" the strap ends and the spot of solder on the boiler. The soldering pencil is a Micro-Mark product. In the next photo, the repair appears much worse than it actually is. It appears to be a large glob of solder. However, the solder you see covers both pieces and is the bridge that holds the parts together. This is why I "tinned" both the traps and the side of the boiler. When the iron was applied to the pieces, the solder flowed together making for a very strong joint. Not the kind of joint you smoke.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150445.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150445.jpeg)
You can see the steps now sit on the front pilot in the proper position.
And the photo below shows how it looks from the front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150522.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216150522.jpeg)
Tomorrow, I'll cover the cutting in of the speaker for the DCC sound.
Thanks for following. 8)
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for taking the extra time to explain your soldering techniques. They are very helpful.
Steve
Quote from: sdrees on February 10, 2016, 06:29:59 PM
Tom,
Thanks for taking the extra time to explain your soldering techniques. They are very helpful.
Steve
Steve,
You are very welcome. Stay tuned as in the next few days I'll be sharing how I made a modification to the tender using the small micro torch from Micro-Mark.
Tom ;D
Moving on to the tender I was happy to find nothing broken, bent or otherwise damaged. I plan on installing DCC sound in this loco and also planned on installing the Tsunami DCC sound. Now, I'll be installing the TCS WOW sound instead.
I will use the 1 1/2" 8 ohm speaker from PBL/PFM. I bought 18 of these speakers 15 years ago so I'd have them at times like this. These speakers have a rich tonal quality and sound wonderful in the brass tenders.
I test fit the speaker in the tender and was happy to see that it fit rather nicely. However, the speaker cone was just a little to high to fit flush on the tender deck once it is reattached.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152109.jpeg)
The front portion of the tender coal bunker now needs to be modified to hold the speaker. To do this I needed to remove a portion of the coal bunker. Using a Dremel tool and cut off disk, I started to cut out the center of the coal bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152121.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Fast forward and the coal bunker cutting is now complete and ready to hold the large speaker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152134.jpeg)
Once the hole was cut for the speaker, I used a small file to clean the edges of the coal bunker.
The speaker now fits very well in the coal bunker of the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152148.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152200.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152200.jpeg)
I drilled two holes in the front of the tender to allow the DCC wires an easier path to the loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152218.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152218.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I next marked on the tender deck the location of the speaker. I'll drill holes inside the circle on the tender for the sound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152312.jpeg)
Bottom side of the tender deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152323.jpeg)
One other small repair was to the piping on the right side of the locomotive under the running board.
This was an easy fix. The pipes were still on the brackets and all I needed to do was to solder the brackets to the running boards. I used the Weller soldering iron (the one with a trigger and looks like a gun) with a brass tip to reheat and re-solder the brackets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152343.jpeg)
Tomorrow, I'll cover the tender modification and the soldering technique I used.
The USRA tender is very plain. I wanted to add more details to the coal bunker. I added a coal slide and coal pusher to the back side of the tender coal bunker.
I purchased a sheet of brass stock from K&S, stock #252, .015 thick and 4" X 10".
I next took a file folder and cut a pattern for the coal slide. I cut the pattern to the same width as the inside of the bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152410.jpeg)
I then held this pattern on the brass sheet. I used the back side of an Xacto #11 blade to trace the pattern onto the brass sheet. I cut the brass sheet slightly larger than the pattern.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152430.jpeg)
I took the brass coal slide and used a file to slowly and carefully file the sides of the brass until I had a nice secure fit.
Continued in a few.
In the old thread, I said I wasn't going into detail on soldering brass on this addition. However, for this thread I'll tell you what I did. It really isn't hard but does require a little patience.
I soldered the coal slide to the sides of the bunker and then soldered the coal pusher to the slide.
First here are the two photos of the new coal slide and coal pusher.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152442.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152442.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152453.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100216152453.jpeg)
Time for a Diet Pepsi break so continued in a few.
I decided the height I wanted the slide and used CA glue (super glue) to "tack" it in place. I used the Micro Mini Torch from Micro-Mark to solder the brass to the inside of the tender bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152812.jpeg)
I used Tix Solder and Tix Flux in the soldering process. Both are sold by Micro-Mark. the small piece on the rifght is all I needed for the soldering. I brushed on a little flux, placed the small piece of solder in the corner of the two pieces and touched the torch to the solder.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152826.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see the small piece of solder on the already soldered bunker slide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152841.jpeg)
Bob Parrish mentioned in his thread he used wet cotton balls as a heat shrink so the surrounding pieces of brass don't get hot and come unsoldered.
I didn't use wet cotton balls, I did use a wet paper towel and pushed it up behind the area of the bunker I was soldering.
I hope all is clear.
Now, I'm up to date on this thread. This afternoon I drilled the holes in the tender deck for the sound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152904.jpeg)
Drilling from the one side caused a lot of burrs on the opposite side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152917.jpeg)
To remove the burrs, I used a larger drill bit and by hand twisted it to remove the burrs. The larger bit will also give me a little rounded edge around the holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152931.jpeg)
Now I have a smooth tender deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216152943.jpeg)
In removing the side rods and other stuff, I discovered that one of the eccentric crank screws was broken flush on the eccentric crank.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216164922.jpeg)
In the above photo you can see the small screw on the right and not one on the left. This isn't a problem in that I just need to back the main crank pin out of the driver.
Another issue is the fact the running gear, waist sheet, and main side rods are all attached. Actually I can remove the main side rod and piston but it's just as easy to leave it all together.
The issue is that I'll have to paint all the brass parts by hand. I've done it on prior paint jobs so this is no different.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216164935.jpeg)
Notice where the tooth pick is pointing? All these parts are attached by a small rivet and don't come apart.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216164951.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
A little fast forward here and all the parts that I could remove and take apart are all in order on the foam mat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216165006.jpeg)
Fast forward a little more, like two hours, and all the parts are cleaned and ready to paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120216165019.jpeg)
Lovin' this Tom!
8)
Tom, Nice touch. Now we know where you hide your $100 bills.
Quote from: ak-milw on February 12, 2016, 06:59:34 PM
Lovin' this Tom!
8)
Andy,
Glad you are having fun. I'm excited to finally get this one painted. I believe you'll like it.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on February 12, 2016, 11:27:34 PM
Tom, Nice touch. Now we know where you hide your $100 bills.
Martin,
Thank you, much appreciated. Oh, the money. Well, you only see half the story. 8) 8) 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216073221.jpeg)
Tom ;D
I started painting the heavy 4-8-2 this afternoon. I forgot to mention that when painting the tender trucks when the wheels are removed you should cover the journals with tape to keep the paint out.
When painting brass I usually get in the mood to do several at the same time. Over a period of weeks that is. I have several going on now. It started with Erieman's and now I'm doing a few of mine and one for the Judge.
Here is a photo of the Judge's Sierra RR 2-6-6-2. It will be stripped and repainted for the Atlantic and Southern. The bobber caboose will also carry the A&S road name.
This loco just came back from NWSL for a new motor and regearing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216152323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216152337.jpeg)
The A&S has both coal and oil fired steam locomotives.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216152351.jpeg)
I've already stripped the tender on the 2-6-6-2.
The next brass project will be a 2-10-2.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216152406.jpeg)
The Judge and I purchased this loco from Howard Zane last year when we visited his layout. The Judge, John Siekirk, Bob Butts and I spent several hours with Howard the day prior to last years Expo.
The best I can tell is it an old Akane, early PFM with an unknown manufacturer's Vandy tender. The Coast Line did have 2-10-2's on the roster including the short two wheel Vandy tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216152419.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
This ACL 2-10-2 has the silver colored hearld and stripes. The ACL only had the silver hearld and stripes on the Northern type 4-8-4's.
Here is the ACL R1 with the silver hearld and stripes. All other ACL steamers had the white hearld and white stripes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216160412.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130216160429.jpeg)
Tom, You've got some brass ______ !!!! :P
You're posting right along, Tom, but I'll rewind a bit to point out that Tix solder melts at 275 F where the tin/lead solder the manufacturer probably used melts at 360 F. So, anyone following along should either stay exactly in your tracks and use Tix, or be extremely careful when soldering near an existing joint made with the same kind of solder.
Back in the day, the serious brass workers who published in MR frequently used three different solders; high-melting-point for basic assemblies like the frame & boiler, eutectic tin/lead for sub-assemblies and Tix to fasten the sub-assemblies together. Looks like magic if you don't know the trick...
Quote from: Donato on February 13, 2016, 06:26:50 PM
Tom, You've got some brass ______ !!!! :P
Donato,
I think you are saying I have some brass trains! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I was lucky enough to be around when brass was inexpensive and fortunate enough to be able to repair the bad ones.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jbvb on February 14, 2016, 12:03:37 AM
You're posting right along, Tom, but I'll rewind a bit to point out that Tix solder melts at 275 F where the tin/lead solder the manufacturer probably used melts at 360 F. So, anyone following along should either stay exactly in your tracks and use Tix, or be extremely careful when soldering near an existing joint made with the same kind of solder.
Back in the day, the serious brass workers who published in MR frequently used three different solders; high-melting-point for basic assemblies like the frame & boiler, eutectic tin/lead for sub-assemblies and Tix to fasten the sub-assemblies together. Looks like magic if you don't know the trick...
James,
Thank you for following along and for bringing the soldering technique back into focus. I meant to mention just what you did.
Tix solder does in fact melt at around 275 F and has the holding power/strength of around 4,000 lbs. per square inch.
I need to mention that Tix solder can be melted with a soldering gun, iron or the torch. I used the torch cause I had it. As far as melting other parts in close proximity to the repair, it is always an excellent idea to have some source of "heat absorber" like a sponge or the wet paper towel I mentioned.
Tom ;D
I'm almost finished with the painting of this brass loco but I want to share a few of the "along the way" photos.
After painting all the wheels, I then sprayed a coat of satin finish on them. When dry, I used a #11 Xacto blade and removed the black paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216160912.jpeg)
I then painted all the driver, pilot, trailing and tender truck tires in white. I used Scalecoat paint and baked the while on. Incredibly I forgot to take photos for the tires; however, you'll see the "white wall driver tires" later in the thread.
The ACL passenger steam locomotives all, I think all, had fancy pin striping on the side of the steam cylinder chest. Here is a photo of an ACL Pacific I did a few years ago. These are all Champ Decals.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216160927.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Decaling the steam cylinder chest is a lesson in patience. The outside pin stripe is a scale 2" and the inside is a scale 1". Fortunately, Champ sold these in sets of 1, 2 and 3 scale inches.
I start with the steam chest.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216160947.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216160947.jpeg)
The two outside horizontal stripes are 8mm wide. I cut four 8mm long.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161002.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161002.jpeg)
The outside vertical stripes are 12mm long. The inside horizontal stripes are 7mm wide and the outside vertical inner stripes are 9mm long.
Patience and more patience will get you this look on the steam chest. Each side of the steam chest has 8 cut pieces of decal stripes. The photo was taken after the decals were applied but just prior to the decal set solution to seat the decals.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161017.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161017.jpeg)
Here is a photo of the steam chest with decals and the driver tires all painted with Scalecoat White. The tires were all hand painted, two coats and each coat baked and then sprayed in the satin finish to give them some protection.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161054.jpeg)
And here is the loco with the side rods and other mechanical parts in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161547.jpeg)
You may think the pin stripes were difficult. They were more time consuming. The hardest decals I've ever applied were to the Toby/PFM Frisco #1527 Mountain, 4-8-2. I forgot what the corner pin stripes are called on the Frisco but it took me a long time to get them to look as they should.
These decals were also a Champ Decal set. The corners go on first and then you fill in the other pin stripes. Hopefully you'll get the corners all perfect so the horizontal and vertical stripes match the corners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161034.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
During the past week I also finished the loco shown below. I started this paint job in 2011. My dad passed in July of 2011 and the loco was put in the back shop in August of 2011. Last week it was removed from the back shop and the work resumed.
The loco is a PFM model of the Western Pacific. WP sold to the Florida East Coast. The FEC sold them to the AB&C, the Atlanta, Birmingham & Coast, in 1935. In 1947 The ACL merged the AB&C.
600 of the models were made and were imported by PFM, built by Atlas and sold for $130.00 in 1972.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161115.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161140.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom....
Pretty cool stuff..
thanx
Bob
I replaced the open frame motor with a NWSL Sagami 20x32mm motor. I had the decals custom made by a firm in Indiana.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161156.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161156.jpeg)
I made some cab curtains. You can see the loco has no cab back head detail. The motor is visible as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161216.jpeg)
.006 wire was used for the bell and whistle cords.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161234.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161234.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161259.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160216161259.jpeg)
I still need to weather the loco, cab curtains and install firebox lights and DCC sound.
When baking the paint on the drivers, do you take special precautions about the insulation between the tire (rim) and the wheel center? I recall reading about people who had to replace drivers because they'd been damaged or fell apart at the insulated joint.
Quote from: bparrish on February 16, 2016, 05:33:03 PM
Tom....
Pretty cool stuff..
thanx
Bob
Bob,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jbvb on February 16, 2016, 07:50:07 PM
When baking the paint on the drivers, do you take special precautions about the insulation between the tire (rim) and the wheel center? I recall reading about people who had to replace drivers because they'd been damaged or fell apart at the insulated joint.
James,
Great question.
In 350+ paint jobs I've only had it happen to me twice. Once was my fault and the other I'll chalk up to the crappy model.
The key in baking brass is not to bake it at a high temperature and to not expose the brass to a lengthy baking time.
I've found that 150 -170 degrees for about 45 minutes is more than enough heat and time to bake the paint on the model.
I helped a friend that had all the drivers fall apart due to the over baking. The rims all came off the wheel on the side of the insulation. We carefully slipped the wheel back on the insulation and used the NMRA gauge to get the wheel back in alignment, We then used super glue and placed a small amount between the wheel, insulation and the rim. The glue was applied at 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions.
That brass loco is still running after 12+ years.
Tom
The one I messed up on was where I baked at a to high a temperature.
Okay, the initial star of this thread is 95% finished. Meet ACL #1405.
ACL Heavy Mountains were used for heavy weight passenger service.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153506.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153614.jpeg)
I just realized I forgot to paint the front air hose and coupling.
Marker light jewels installed in the front marker lights. Bell and whistle cords installed and painted with Floquil Foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153450.jpeg)
Cab exterior windows painted with Floquil Reading Green, window glass (Gallery Glass) installed along with a waving Fireman.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153520.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tender deck edge hand painted with Scalecoat White. Cab curtains installed and tender decaled with the ACL famous hearld and decal stripes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153535.jpeg)
20 tons coal and 12,000 gals. water decals installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153552.jpeg)
Still to be finished is DCC WOW Sound, coal load in tender, some minor details to be named later and rear marker lights and used but not abused weathering.
I like to install the red marker lights/jewels on the rear but my supply is out. The HO scale marker jewels were sold by Roundhouse but no longer made. I can install white but will wait for some time while the search goes on.
Up next will be this PFM/United USRA 2-8-2 Mikado. I'll paint this one for the Seaboard Air Line. It's a basic paint with the SAL decals.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153630.jpeg)
Many years ago, when I was talking to the folks at Champ Decal Co. they said they were closing shop in a year. I then began a monthly purchase of several sets of decals of the brass locos I had on the roster. I then got more just in case.
This is the first year PFM came out with the highly detailed back head detail for the cab. The model was imported in 1977 by PFM, the builder was Atlas and retailed for $325.00. Only 600 were made in 1977. PFM did import 1075 of the light Mikado from 1958 through 1966.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200216201438.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200216201449.jpeg)
Tom, I will check my stash....I may have some Roundhouse red jewels that you can have
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on February 20, 2016, 09:06:31 PM
Tom, I will check my stash....I may have some Roundhouse red jewels that you can have
Jim
Jim,
That would be great. I sure need them. Last month I found some white and green on
Ebay. Iron Horse models sells them but only in white. They are a little over sized for HO scale.
Tom
Tom,
I think you could use rhinestones for your marker light jewels. I found an iron on rhinestone applique at Walmart for a couple dollars. The red stones are about.065 in diameter. I bought them to use for vehicle tail lights, so I picked the iron on with the smallest red stones they had. I believe you can find similar at any of the large craft stores.
Jerry
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 21, 2016, 11:01:43 AM
Tom,
I think you could use rhinestones for your marker light jewels. I found an iron on rhinestone applique at Walmart for a couple dollars. The red stones are about.065 in diameter. I bought them to use for vehicle tail lights, so I picked the iron on with the smallest red stones they had. I believe you can find similar at any of the large craft stores.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I'll check out the craft stores.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I found the stash of red and white jewels. There are no green in the bunch. They measure about 0.07 inches but theyn look a little big for HO. They are yours if you want them.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on February 21, 2016, 12:27:11 PM
Tom,
I found the stash of red and white jewels. There are no green in the bunch. They measure about 0.07 inches but theyn look a little big for HO. They are yours if you want them.
Jim
Jim,
I believe they are a little big for HO scale but I'll take them all the same. If you'll bring them with you on Thursday, I'll stop by and get them. Thanks very much.
Tom ;D
The USRA has been disassembled. Here is a photo of the main loco parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210216141948.jpeg)
And, here are all the rest of the parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210216142002.jpeg)
The loco was given an Acetone bath, washed in warm soapy water and baked dry. It's now ready for the paint shop.
Tom,
I have been following as usual and have a suggestion to your marker dilemma, give the following a try for lenses, I resorted to this process after I ran out of the 300 series of MV lenses. After the markers are painted your favorite color (black) put a drop (I use a pinhead as an applicator) of white, or silver paint in the marker depressions, there is enough tension in the paint to not run beyond the edges. Once dry follow with Tamiya clear stains (Red, Amber, or Green) using the same method and let it dry. After that I seal the colors with a touch of white glue (your choice as long as it dries clear) and you are done. It is a lengthy process, but you don't wind up with out of scale protrusions from the marker castings representing lenses.
Anyway, it is a thought.
Bob
Quote from: RWL on February 23, 2016, 01:05:57 PM
Tom,
I have been following as usual and have a suggestion to your marker dilemma, give the following a try for lenses, I resorted to this process after I ran out of the 300 series of MV lenses. After the markers are painted your favorite color (black) put a drop (I use a pinhead as an applicator) of white, or silver paint in the marker depressions, there is enough tension in the paint to not run beyond the edges. Once dry follow with Tamiya clear stains (Red, Amber, or Green) using the same method and let it dry. After that I seal the colors with a touch of white glue (your choice as long as it dries clear) and you are done. It is a lengthy process, but you don't wind up with out of scale protrusions from the marker castings representing lenses.
Anyway, it is a thought.
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for following along, much appreciated.
Your suggestion is an excellent idea, no, it's brilliant! I was gong to do the pin drop in red for the rear markers. I've used that method on prior occasions for back head detail.
Again, great suggestion and I very much appreciate it. Now, excuse me, I'm off to Colonial Photo and Hobby for some Tamiya clear stain paints! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D ;D ;D
While working on the USRA 4-6-2, I've been looking forward to what I'll be painting next. I have a NJ International C&O J-2 Class 4-8-2. It has a long haul tender.
Here is a photo of the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216191257.jpeg)
The problem is that this tender is all soldered together. The bottom doesn't come unscrewed. If I can't install WOW sound, there is no need to paint the loco. I'll need to find a way to open the tender coal bunker with a hole large enough install the decoder, the Keep Alive unit and a speaker. I'll also need to route the wires from the tender to the loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216191313.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216191331.jpeg)
More on this in a few days.
I've also been working on some other brass stuff.
A friend of the SBG, Jon Shubert, gave the Judge five brass log cars. The cars are stamped "Kadee" on four of them and the other is an unknown. It simply has the stamp "Korea" on the bottom.
I'll be making some minor repairs to the cars and then they get an Acetone bath and paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216192534.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216193512.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216193547.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The brass log cars are nice but do come with some issues that need to be fixed.
Most of the couplers are affixed as seen below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216193609.jpeg)
One of the cars is missing the log rack on the one end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216193525.jpeg)
Those couplers look like I put them on.
8)
Tom,
I think J2 is a Dong Jin model, you may be able to sweat the slope sheet from the rest of the bunker if you are careful. Use those wet cotton balls profusely and to your advantage. What are the heat limitations for the electronics? No baking the paint on this one.
Bob
Tom
Remind me to ask you my questions about brass locomotives when we are together at the EXPO. You are sure doing some nice work here.
Quote from: ak-milw on February 27, 2016, 08:12:21 PM
Those couplers look like I put them on.
8)
Andy,
You couldn't possibly be that bad my friend. It took me five minutes to get that stuff off. :'(
Tom ;D
Quote from: RWL on February 27, 2016, 08:15:27 PM
Tom,
I think J2 is a Dong Jin model, you may be able to sweat the slope sheet from the rest of the bunker if you are careful. Use those wet cotton balls profusely and to your advantage. What are the heat limitations for the electronics? No baking the paint on this one.
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for checking in. NJ Custom Brass did import a J-3 Greenbrier built by Dong Jin. The J-3 is a 4-8-4. The C&O J-2 is a 4-8-2 imported by Custom Brass and built by Daiyoung. This model came out in 1978.
I'll look at the slope sheet and see how it is all soldered.
Not sure about the heat limitations on the electronics. The loco will be painted and baked PRIOR to the installation of the WOW sound decoders. That is, if and only if I get them in the tube of the tender.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 27, 2016, 08:41:41 PM
Tom
Remind me to ask you my questions about brass locomotives when we are together at the EXPO. You are sure doing some nice work here.
John,
Sure thing. I look forward to the conversation. Looking forward to the EXPO as well. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Tom,
You might be better off attempting to install one of the cell phone speakers in the boiler and keep all the electronics in the engine. It won't pull anything, but it will save you time and effort from modifying the tender.
Bob
Quote from: RWL on February 28, 2016, 10:36:07 AM
Tom,
You might be better off attempting to install one of the cell phone speakers in the boiler and keep all the electronics in the engine. It won't pull anything, but it will save you time and effort from modifying the tender.
Bob
Bob,
I have a cell speaker in another Vandy tender and it sounds great. I need this loco to pull about 15-17 cars and a brass caboose so the decoder in the boiler isn't an option. Modifying the tender isn't a problem but I don't want to start cutting until I decide on a successful way to do it. If not, I'll dump the loco.
One other option is to use a regular square tender like a USRA type and decal it for the A&S RR. :'(
Tom ;D
This morning I was on a roll and stripped the log cars, repaired one, painted, baked and then added the trucks and couplers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280216153450.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280216153505.jpeg)
I made one log rack for the one missing. The one on the right is original and the one on the left I made from brass stock. Not perfect but will do when the logs are added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280216153518.jpeg)
Coupler pockets repaired and couplers added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280216153531.jpeg)
Now back to the locomotives. Log cars were painted with Floquil Red Oxide.
Prior to putting the side rods and eccentric crank back on the loco, I decided to change the look of these pieces. I wanted them to look more like polish steel rather than the chrome finish. Below is a photo of the parts I'm referring to.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316172847.jpeg)
I sprayed them with full strength Scalecoat Flat Finish and let dry.
In the photo below you can see the difference on the main side rod on the top. This one has been sprayed with the flat finish. The one on the bottom shows the chrome finish on the back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316172906.jpeg)
Here is how they look on the locomotive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316172924.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I mentioned earlier in the post that this version of the PFM USRA 2-8-2 came with a separate back head and detail. I painted the details and reattached it to the rear of the firebox.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316172947.jpeg)
I'm assuming everyone noticed the green front cab wall. Since the cab also comes off this model, painted the insiode of the cab a light green. I mixed a little Floquil Reading Green and Floquil Reefer White.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173001.jpeg)
I painted the inside window trim of the cab red to match the red on the outside of the windows. I used Floquil Signal Red for the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173017.jpeg)
Preiser Engineer and Fireman were added next. The cab roof was then installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173035.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Fast forward and this one is finished. Well, almost! It still needs the DCC decoder installed, coal load, front marker jewels and very light weathering. It is decaled for the Seaboard Air Line RR and is a freight locomotive. The decals are Champ decals. Champ has been closed for several years now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173053.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173108.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173120.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173149.jpeg)
This loco will also be used on the Ovalix as a pusher so I installed a red MV Lens Products #L117 in the rear light socket.
Continued in a few.
The reason I painted the interior cab green, is because I also installed a cab light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173205.jpeg)
Here's a view of the cab interior and light without the tender in tow. Notice my cab tarp rolled up at the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173224.jpeg)
Thanks for following and comments/criticism are welcome. It's how we learn and get better.
Three down and five locos to go along with one brass SAL caboose.
Tom ;D
Great job!
Most inspiring, but........
Unless you had written permission from ReadingBob, I find the desecration of Reading Green objectionable. Guess I'll have to go hide in my safe space.
Sarcasm suspended.
Quote from: BandOGuy on March 03, 2016, 06:07:18 PM
Great job!
Most inspiring, but........
Unless you had written permission from ReadingBob, I find the desecration of Reading Green objectionable. Guess I'll have to go hide in my safe space.
Sarcasm suspended.
Chip,
Thank you for the very kind words, much appreciated. I didn't need or get Reading bob's permission to use the Reading Green. He knew if he objected, I wouldn't let him spend another six months of his time building one of my fine, very fine craftsman kits. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Sarcasm always welcome. :'(
Tom 8)
I also finished the Judges PFM Sierra Railroad logging 2-6-6-2 loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181344.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181344.jpeg)
This loco now has the TCS WOW Sound installed. I used to install all my DCC decoders but the Judge and I are paying a friend to do it for us. I'm just to busy in retirement to do it. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I save about four days a month by having Jon do the DCC installs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181358.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181358.jpeg)
Notice a few little paint dings on the side of the front right running board. This happens when sound is installed and is no big real. I wait until the weathering process to touch up the paint prior to weathering. After weathering it goes on the layout and won't be touched.
Continued in a few.
Tom,
Your work on the locomotives is fantastic. The Sierra Mallet is great and I have one that has never been painted and I hope it looks as great as yours does one of these days. But first, I have to get some track down so I have a place to run it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181415.jpeg)
This loco is an oil burner and still needs a few tender details added. I'll show them when finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181432.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The Atlantic and Southern RR now has it's own logging train. We have the A&S 2-6-6-2, five log cars (without logs at the moment) and the A&S #5 bobber caboose.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181452.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181452.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181512.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181512.jpeg)
The logger stopped on a siding and the conductor noticed that the cattle were trying to excape the slaughter house by jumping from the GN cattle car.
I think the "Eat more chickun" cows are behind the escape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181526.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316181526.jpeg)
Four down and four to go.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on March 03, 2016, 06:28:29 PM
Tom,
Your work on the locomotives is fantastic. The Sierra Mallet is great and I have one that has never been painted and I hope it looks as great as yours does one of these days. But first, I have to get some track down so I have a place to run it.
Steve,
Thanks very much for the very kind words. I appreciate you taking the time to stop by. The 2-6-6-2 wasn't the easiest paint job I've done. Now get some track down. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Back to the work on the C&O J-3 4-8-2.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173256.jpeg)
I'll have much more on this loco tomorrow.
Tom ;D
Wow you got a lot of brass, nice work on all the projects Tom.
I like the logging loco and train Tom.....came out great. 8)
Can't wait to give it a run around the room.....I promise not to go into warp speed with it. ;D
Quote from: Twopoint2 on March 03, 2016, 08:24:30 PM
Wow you got a lot of brass, nice work on all the projects Tom.
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by the thread, your kind words are appreciated. When I was younger, much younger, I traded my paining for store credit and got most of the brass that way.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 04, 2016, 08:33:10 AM
I like the logging loco and train Tom.....came out great. 8)
Can't wait to give it a run around the room.....I promise not to go into warp speed with it. ;D
Greg,
Thanks Butty, much appreciated. You can't go warp speed on this one due to the gearing. The Judge got it up to 25 and I told him to be careful as he was getting close to "Greg speed".
Tom ;D
this stuff is just beyond amazing to me.
John
Quote from: Cuse on March 04, 2016, 09:20:54 AM
this stuff is just beyond amazing to me.
John
I certainly agree. I'd be afraid to take one of these things out of the box let alone tear 'em down, repair them (or in my case break them ;D), detail them, paint them and then weather them. Oh yeah, I forgot the part about installing decoders and speakers. :o Absolutely amazing! :D
Quote from: Cuse on March 04, 2016, 09:20:54 AM
this stuff is just beyond amazing to me.
John
John,
Thanks for stopping by and posting your comment. Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated.
This is really just basic brass paining and repairs, although if you've never done it, it can seem daunting.
Thanks again Butty!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 04, 2016, 11:27:06 AM
Quote from: Cuse on March 04, 2016, 09:20:54 AM
this stuff is just beyond amazing to me.
John
I certainly agree. I'd be afraid to take one of these things out of the box let alone tear 'em down, repair them (or in my case break them ;D ), detail them, paint them and then weather them. Oh yeah, I forgot the part about installing decoders and speakers. :o Absolutely amazing! :D
Bob,
Your comments are much appreciated. I compare my brass projects to your structure building.
Absolutely amazing Butty, thank you.
Tom ;D
Prior to taking the side rods and others moving parts off the locomotive, I did a roll test. It rolled fine with the exception of one very slight bind every revolution. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what the problem was causing the bind.
I turned the loco over and the steam chest and eccentric crank mechanisms all fell off. I noticed the steam chest bracket was completely unsoldered from the two frame sides. It appeared to be a cold solder joint by the model builder.
In the photo below you can see the small bracket between the two side frames. The two side frames are between the two steam cylinders.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316145904.jpeg)
You can see I polished the area in preparation to resolder the bracket.
Continued in a few.
I was concerned about the steam chest not being in the proper position when I resoldered the parts. To ensure I got it on correctly, I carefully but it back together and then turned it over but this time holding the parts in place.
The parts to be soldered are in a very small space and I needed to ensure that I didn't also solder the round steam chest screw to the bracket.
The Tix Flux comes with a rather large applicator, shown below. I used a small brush to apply the flux to the two areas to be soldered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316145919.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316145919.jpeg)
In the photo below you can see the two very small Tix Solder pieces against the bracket and side frame. They appear bigger due to the up close photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316145936.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316145936.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Prior to soldering the bracket in place, I wrapped the frame with a damp wash cloth.This was to absorb the heat and prevent any other sections from being unsoldered from the heat of this solder joint. The wash cloth didn't get photographed.
The bracket is now soldered in place and the wash cloth did the job.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316150816.jpeg)
I finished removing the parts from the loco and another part/bracket fell off. Referring to the above/below photos, the small bracket between the two center wheels is the offending bracket.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316150829.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom...
Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up. Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?
Also help me with what manufacturer. I've never seen a lash up quite like that.
Thanx
Bob
I positioned the bracket in place between the two side frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316150845.jpeg)
To make sure it was in the proper position, I placed the bottom frame plate on the loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316151023.jpeg)
You can see in the photo the hole is slightly off center. I made a slight adjustment and got the bracket in the correct position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316151042.jpeg)
I carefully turned the loco frame over and made the repair in the same manor as I did with the steam chest bracket, wash cloth and all that stuff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316151056.jpeg)
Sunday afternoon I'll be back on the Vanderbuilt tender and the changes I had to make to get it ready for sound.
Thanks for following along on this adventure.
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2016, 06:17:06 PM
Tom...
Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up. Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?
Also help me with what manufacturer. I've never seen a lash up quite like that.
Thanx
Bob
Bob,
Yes, the .015 wire is actually a tension spring. Although I wouldn't really say its a spring at all. The model is/was imported by NJ Custom Brass. The crappy builder was Daiyoung - Korea.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316182429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316182429.jpeg)
The model was offered in 1978 at a retail price of $234.00. 500 of this J-2 Mountain were made. Remember the model I painted for Frank Baker, Erieman? This is the same manufacturer of the model. I discussed the wire journal spring method in that thread.
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0)
One other manufacturer used this method as well. Early Overland models used the tension wire method on their models. Unfortunately, both my ACL R1 4-8-4's were built using the tension wire. :'(
I picked up this model at the local hobby shop for less than $100.00 knowing what I was getting. If the wire is in the correct position, there isn't any problem.
Tom ;D
Tom...
Thanx... That is a system I am not familiar with. Seems to me like the linear tension of the wire would offer uneven springing capabilities to the various axles. I suppose in HO that is not much of an issue but well sprung locos really have better traction and greater pulling power.
Again... thanx
Bob
So many pieces, so little space.
Jim
Tom,
Your work is just awesome. I worked in a hobby shop for several years and quickly learned the flat out hardest thing to find and fix was a slight "glitch" in the mechanism of a steam locomotive. Thanks again for posting so many of your tips, tricks, and your wonderful explanations.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 04, 2016, 06:32:51 PM
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2016, 06:17:06 PM
Tom...
Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up. Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?
Also help me with what manufacturer. I've never seen a lash up quite like that.
Thanx
Bob
Bob,
Yes, the .015 wire is actually a tension spring. Although I wouldn't really say its a spring at all. The model is/was imported by NJ Custom Brass. The crappy builder was Daiyoung - Korea.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316182429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040316182429.jpeg)
The model was offered in 1978 at a retail price of $234.00. 500 of this J-2 Mountain were made. Remember the model I painted for Frank Baker, Erieman? This is the same manufacturer of the model. I discussed the wire journal spring method in that thread.
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0)
One other manufacturer used this method as well. Early Overland models used the tension wire method on their models. Unfortunately, both my ACL R1 4-8-4's were built using the tension wire. :'(
I picked up this model at the local hobby shop for less than $100.00 knowing what I was getting. If the wire is in the correct position, there isn't any problem.
Tom ;D
Tom,
You mean you have another one just like mine? you are a brave person. Did you paint it or is it still in the box? does it really look like mine? WOW. Maybe I should buy it from you!!! Only kidding. Have a great day my friend.
Frank / Erieman
I think the idea of the .015 wire was so the drivers would have a bit of equalization. I don't own any, so I can't say if it worked at all.
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2016, 08:04:31 PM
Tom...
Thanx... That is a system I am not familiar with. Seems to me like the linear tension of the wire would offer uneven springing capabilities to the various axles. I suppose in HO that is not much of an issue but well sprung locos really have better traction and greater pulling power.
Again... thanx
Bob
Bob,
You are very welcome. I'm not a fan of this type of journal spring but it does work.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on March 04, 2016, 10:26:20 PM
So many pieces, so little space.
Jim
Jim,
Exactly! And, you had your share of putting all the pieces back together for others.
Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 05, 2016, 08:06:22 AM
Tom,
Your work is just awesome. I worked in a hobby shop for several years and quickly learned the flat out hardest thing to find and fix was a slight "glitch" in the mechanism of a steam locomotive. Thanks again for posting so many of your tips, tricks, and your wonderful explanations.
Jerry,
Your kind words are much appreciated, thank you. The dreaded "glitch" is one issue I hate working on, but a necessary one for a smooth running loco. It's my pleasure to work on an post the threads for others to see what all goes into the makings of a very smooth running mechanism.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jbvb on March 06, 2016, 10:39:01 AM
I think the idea of the .015 wire was so the drivers would have a bit of equalization. I don't own any, so I can't say if it worked at all.
James,
You are correct in part in that nothing is perfect. I've had to replace journal springs when one is "stretched" more than others. This method, although not the best, does in fact work.
I appreciated your comment and addition to the thread.
Tom ;D
I mentioned a few weeks ago that I was undecided on how to install a speaker in the Vandy tender of the C&O J2. Well, I decided to gut the coal bunker to gain access to the barrel of the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270216191313.jpeg)
I used the Dremel cut off disk and started removing small sections at a time. I cut the side slope sections out and the bottom piece came out next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316152841.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316152856.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I drilled small holes in the back of the coal slide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316152914.jpeg)
I then used a pair of Xuron nippers for cut the brass between the drilled holes. Once this section of the bunker was removed, I filed the brass to enlarge the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316152927.jpeg)
Continued after a Diet Pepsi break.
The 1" X 1" speaker fits flush on the bottom of the bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316152951.jpeg)
The DCC decoder also fits. Shown is a Tsunami DCC decoder but the TCS WOW decoder will be used.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316153052.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also drilled a few holes for the sound on the bottom slope of the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316153008.jpeg)
I drilled these holes so they wouldn't show when the tender is on the track.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316153020.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316153036.jpeg)
I've been a little slow on keeping the thread up to date. Sorry 'bout that". I've been painting a few things. 8) 8) 8)
The loco is actually painted and I'm getting it back together. I'll share a few photos of the process.
I didn't plan on a few things but when I did some research, which should have been done first, I found that the J2's were first passenger locomotives prior to being relegated to freight service. This meant all the tires needed to be "white walled" and the main loco running boards needed white paint on the edges.
All the side walls of the wheels needed the black paint removed. I used a new #11 Xacto blade to remove the black paint. I then applied the first coat of white on the tires.
In the photo below the left driver tire has the black paint removed and the one on the right has the first coast of Scalecoat White hand painted on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316161808.jpeg)
Yes, I could have painted over the black but this step is a lazy one and makes the tires look "paint heavy".
First coat hand painted, baked and then the second white coat applied and baked. Time to paint the first coat on all the wheels/tires, 20 minutes, time to bake the first coat 45 minutes, time for the second white coat another 20 minutes, second coat baked another 45 minutes.
The look of the finished rims - Priceless.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316161825.jpeg)
Here is my next victim. A brass PFM USRA Pacific.
I'll paint this one and decal it for the SAL RR. SEABOARD will be spelled out on the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060316161841.jpeg)
Tom,
You mean you have another one just like mine? you are a brave person. Did you paint it or is it still in the box? does it really look like mine? WOW. Maybe I should buy it from you!!! Only kidding. Have a great day my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
I'm sorry I forgot to respond to your comment. Yes, this one is like your only in that it has the tensions wire for the journal supports. Enjoyed our conversation on the phone the other morning.
I did paint it and this one is almost finished.
Tom ;D
I forgot to mention another issue I had with the boiler of the C&O J-2.
The motor and gear shaft were very tight and hard to remove. I noticed the bottom of the boiler tube was very narrow just in front of the firebox.
You can see in the photo below the brass on the bottom isn't trimmed to meet the front of the firebox.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173311.jpeg)
I used the Dremel cut off disk to carefully remedy the problem as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030316173325.jpeg)
Tom...
You are very brave, sir..
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 07, 2016, 09:10:30 PM
Tom...
You are very brave, sir..
see ya
Bob
Well, someone has to do it! 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
I now have the C&O J-2 finished. I'll show the final pictures later in the post but first I want to share a few other things.
The loco has a boiler weight but it sits to far forward in the boiler. Meaning it was only over the front driver and the pilot truck. This is another bad design I guess. So, to give me more weight over the other three drivers I added more weight to the boiler.
Notice the screw on the bottom of the loco? Just to the right of the screw is where the boiler weight stops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164402.jpeg)
I used a Walthers product called Templow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164416.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The Lowtemp material melts at a relatively low temperature. I used my Weller solder gun tip to melt the Lowtemp.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164430.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164430.jpeg)
I melted off a little over 1/3 and placed the pieces in the boiler. I then used the tip of the solder gun to remelt the metal in the top of the boiler. Of course, I turned the loco over on the top to do this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164444.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164444.jpeg)
The big question I'm sure everyone has is did this also melt the nice paint on the top of the boiler? The answer may surprise you in that NO, it didn't and doesn't. The metal melts to a liquid but not to hot of affect the paint.
The photo below is of the top of the boiler with the metal melted in place, inside the top of the boiler.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164459.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
On brass Vandy tenders, there is usually some brass that looks like wood. I've always just painted these black along with the tender and then painted them a wood color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164524.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164524.jpeg)
This time I decided to add HO scale lumber to the top of the brass walk way. I measured the brass pieces and found them to be 2 X 12's. So they didn't look very thick or out of scale when I added mine, I used scale 1 X 12's. I used Hunterline Light Grey weathering mix to stain the boards. I applied two coats to the lumber.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164536.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164536.jpeg)
Here is how the finished boards look on the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164722.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164722.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
All that is left to do now is to install the DCC decoder, speaker, coal load and the appropriate weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164548.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164601.jpeg)
The tender light was very thin and fragile. I didn't want to drill through it so I installed an MV lens in the tender light. I used #L 173 MV lens.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164616.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164630.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164642.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164656.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164710.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164710.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164736.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164736.jpeg)
I forgot to mention I used Campbell's Engineer and Fireman for the cab crew. However; to change the crew look, I repainted the shirts from a light blue to a darker blue.
Engineer -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164601.jpeg)
Fireman -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080316164656.jpeg)
A little more about Temp-Low, Cerro Bend and other low-melting-point alloys: If you heat them only till you have enough liquid metal to do the job, they're not going to damage much. But if you accidentally keep heating the liquid, it'll get hotter, and all bets are off.
Tom,
This thread really gets your wheels turning ! Lots of info that I was never aware of or tried before. ;)
Tom,
Another beautiful job, my friend. It is great to see all the engines you have in you painting area. Simply marvelous.
Frank / Erieman
Tom,
If you EVER run out of Engines to paint, just remember how many unpainted ones I have. 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jim
Quote from: jbvb on March 08, 2016, 10:35:40 PM
A little more about Temp-Low, Cerro Bend and other low-melting-point alloys: If you heat them only till you have enough liquid metal to do the job, they're not going to damage much. But if you accidentally keep heating the liquid, it'll get hotter, and all bets are off.
James,
Thanks for checking in and adding to the thread. I've never had an over heating issue with the Templow and hope never to have one. 8) 8) 8)
I wouldn't be to keen on repainting the boiler after melting the paint. :'( :'(
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 09, 2016, 03:45:36 AM
Tom,
This thread really gets your wheels turning ! Lots of info that I was never aware of or tried before. ;)
Tom,
Thanks for the kind words and for following along. I'm happy you are getting some new ideas.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on March 09, 2016, 10:10:43 AM
Tom,
Another beautiful job, my friend. It is great to see all the engines you have in you painting area. Simply marvelous.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Thanks for the kind words kind sir. I'm finally coming down to the last one. Well, maybe the penultimate one.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on March 09, 2016, 11:19:06 AM
Tom,
If you EVER run out of Engines to paint, just remember how many unpainted ones I have. 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jim
Jim,
You know I'll never run out of brass to paint and you have your stash as well. For you Jimbo, I'll paint whatever you need done. Just let me know.
Tom ;D
I guess it's time for a little update on the painting of the brass 4-6-2. The early PFM/United brass pacifics came with the old open frame Pitman DC-70X motor. This loco came out in 1963 and had a retail price of $60.00.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182755.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182755.jpeg)
I removed the open frame motor and installed a new NWSL Sagami 30X32mm can motor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182811.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182811.jpeg)
The smokebox front has a foot step missing and I'm just going to leave it off. In fact, it appears it was never on. There is no sign of any solder around the back of the step. You can see the small hole on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182824.jpeg)
Also, you can see the goofy looking markers lights on the front. I'll remove them and replace them with something more appealing.
Continued in a few.
Due to the fact the open frame motor was so large, PFM didn't add any back head details. Actually the early brass didn't have back head details of any kind.
I didn't want the can motor to show so I used some of the old brass I cut many years ago for other back head details.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182837.jpeg)
I went very basic on the details as they won't show that much but I needed to have a few details in the cab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182854.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Fast forward and the back head is now painted as well as the locomotive frame and side rods, etc and etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182908.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130316182922.jpeg)
Tom
You have been very busy - I'm finding the threads on brass locomotives very interesting. Are you also finding time to work on the layout?
Tom,
On USRA designs there was only one foot step on the front of the smokebox, the spare hole should be filled. PFM probably used the same casting for other engines and was cutting costs (not every PFM model was accurate). If there was a step on the fireman's side it would have prototypically restricted the swing of the smokebox door. Also the step that is there should have a angled 30 degree support gusset mounted on the outside of the step. By the way those markers aren't goofy looking, crude, but not goofy.
One suggestion to this thread.
I am sure there are many following along that would like a synopsis as to your methods of preparation, fault finding, disassembly, painting, assembly, tuning, and final finish. A check list for their use instead of going through pages and pages that have been posted over the past few years and most recently. You have covered many engines over the pages and you offer something different with every engine and every engine has its own character. I know how I do it, you and I don't vary much, but I don't post that much. I am sure your public would appreciate it and before I get stones thrown my way, remember every day is a Saturday!
Bob
Tom,
I have a couple of questions on this. How is the new engine mounted to the frame of the locomotive and do you eventually cut off the shaft of the new motor that is sticking out the back?
Thanks
Quote from: S&S RR on March 13, 2016, 10:32:53 PM
Tom
You have been very busy - I'm finding the threads on brass locomotives very interesting. Are you also finding time to work on the layout?
John,
I've been very busy of late on the brass painting. I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. As far as working on the layout, I've decided to just get the brass finished this month so no layout work. However, upon my return from the EXPO I'll be working on the layout full time.
Any brass projects left over will wait until after the 2017 NMRA here in Orlando.
Tom ;D
Quote from: RWL on March 13, 2016, 10:43:27 PM
Tom,
On USRA designs there was only one foot step on the front of the smokebox, the spare hole should be filled. PFM probably used the same casting for other engines and was cutting costs (not every PFM model was accurate). If there was a step on the fireman's side it would have prototypically restricted the swing of the smokebox door. Also the step that is there should have a angled 30 degree support gusset mounted on the outside of the step. By the way those markers aren't goofy looking, crude, but not goofy.
One suggestion to this thread.
I am sure there are many following along that would like a synopsis as to your methods of preparation, fault finding, disassembly, painting, assembly, tuning, and final finish. A check list for their use instead of going through pages and pages that have been posted over the past few years and most recently. You have covered many engines over the pages and you offer something different with every engine and every engine has its own character. I know how I do it, you and I don't vary much, but I don't post that much. I am sure your public would appreciate it and before I get stones thrown my way, remember every day is a Saturday!
Bob
Bob,
I enjoyed your visit this past Saturday. Don't forget to send that list and prices. I've already painted the smoke box front but I can still fill it with putty and paint over - it'll get weathered anyway. The markers are indeed crude as they are only turned and drilled brass stock, and they are still goofy looking in any case. LOL! I think you'll be happy with what I plan to do in the marker light department.
Your request to do a compendium of the brass projects sounds reasonable, provided I had the time. Yes, everyday is Saturday in our world but the task would be very time consuming as you have guessed or you would have done it, right? It is a great idea but not in the distant future will I get to it.
Throwing stones? Not to you, your input is very valuable to me my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on March 13, 2016, 11:07:02 PM
Tom,
I have a couple of questions on this. How is the new engine mounted to the frame of the locomotive and do you eventually cut off the shaft of the new motor that is sticking out the back?
Thanks
Steve,
The new motor is connected to the frame by two small screws. The loco has a motor mount on top of the frame and the screws pass through the motor mount and secure the motor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140316164257.jpeg)
I did cut the rear shaft off the motor, I forgot to mention and show this in the thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140316161649.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140316164936.jpeg)
Tom,
Thanks for taking the time to explain this.
Quote from: sdrees on March 14, 2016, 08:26:04 PM
Tom,
Thanks for taking the time to explain this.
Steve,
You are welcome and I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
The United 4-6-2 is finished and ready for the coal load and WOW sound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191836.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191850.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191912.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The engineer leaned out to give a big way for the camera.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191925.jpeg)
Looks like he's still waving to someone.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191945.jpeg)
I wanted to share this next little loco with ya'll. It's one of the first brass locos I ever purchased. It is the NWSL USRA 0-6-0 switcher. It sold new for $160.00 way back in 1978.
It is the first brass painting I ever did and it has been on the loco since 1979. The loco is older than the prototype when they were scrapped.
During all the brass painting, I pulled it out and gave it a few upgrades. I painted the bell and whistle cords, painted the cab windows, added Gallery Glass for the windows, added cab crew and painted the front number plate red with brass trim.
I removed the old PFM sound and am ready to install the TCS WOW sound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191725.jpeg)
Looks like this engineer is curious but not waving.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191740.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191755.jpeg)
The Fireman has his eye on the water level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191809.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180316191822.jpeg)
I forgot to show this little 0-8-0 switcher. It's an old Alco USRA model.
This one will be used as a yard switcher and general purpose use. It will be weathered accordingly. I still need to install the cab curtains.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260316184708.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260316184723.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I started Erieman's loco on January 2 of this year. To date, I've painted 8 brass locos, 2 brass cabeese and 5 brass log cars. The locos and cabeese still need weathering but that will come after the Expo when I get the time. After the Expo, it will be full time on the second level scenery, structures and third level framing.
I'm looking forward to the break in work as to be quite honest, I'm a little burned out on doing all the repairs and painting on the brass.
I have just a few pretty neat things to show everyone on the brass but I'll have to wait until after the Expo as well.
Tom ;D
Tom...
Thanx
This is really cool stuff.....
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 26, 2016, 08:49:15 PM
Tom...
Thanx
This is really cool stuff.....
see ya
Bob
Bob,
Thank you for the kind words. I think your brass work is much more cool than mine.
Tom ;D
I want to thank all of you that approached me at the Expo to discuss my brass exploits. Your comments were very kind and I appreciated the support.
Per your requests, I'll be showing a few more locos in the not so distance future. However; the serious work on the brass is finished until after July 2017.
I'll be posting in the next month the finished weathering photos of the locos I just finished.
Tom ;D
OK............. I'll bite ! ! !
What happens between now and July 17?
see ya
Bob
I believe this is what Tom is referring to in July 2017, and I hope to attend.
Jeff
Quote from: bparrish on April 04, 2016, 06:51:54 PM
OK............. I'll bite ! ! !
What happens between now and July 17?
see ya
Bob
We are planning a forum get-together in Florida. Hoping to avoid snow storms.
Quote from: bparrish on April 04, 2016, 06:51:54 PM
OK............. I'll bite ! ! !
What happens between now and July 17?
see ya
Bob
Bob,
Dr. Jeff got it correct. The NMRA is coming to Orlando in July of 2017 and I've been asked if I want to show the layout. I need to get real busy on the second level. So, no brass painting until after that.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 04, 2016, 08:43:13 PM
I believe this is what Tom is referring to in July 2017, and I hope to attend.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks for following along and for posting the Orange Blossom Special.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on April 04, 2016, 10:14:55 PM
Quote from: bparrish on April 04, 2016, 06:51:54 PM
OK............. I'll bite ! ! !
What happens between now and July 17?
see ya
Bob
We are planning a forum get-together in Florida. Hoping to avoid snow storms.
John,
Hey, sounds good to me.
Tom ;D
I figured I'd go the extra mile and add lighted marker lights to the locos.
Here is Seaboard 2-8-2, #493 with the back head light. Sorry, I should have turn off the overhead light.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141633.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141633.jpeg)
Here is SAL #493 with the lit green marker lights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141650.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141650.jpeg)
Here is Seaboard 4-6-2, #849 with the new marker lights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141706.jpeg)
#849 with lit white marker lights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141726.jpeg)
Here are both the 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141745.jpeg)
Red markers were added to the rear of the pacific #849.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070416141757.jpeg)
As time permits, more lighted marker lights will be added.
Tom ;D
Getting caught up with your thread, all the engines look awesome Tom.
I need to get a bunch of these marker lights.....if only I knew someone who could show me how to install them. ::)
Meee 2! Perhaps someone could do a video class on installing them for the rest of us...
Tom....
So whose marker lamps are you using and what voltage bulbs?
Can you put up a close in photo?
See ya
Bob
Quote from: Twopoint2 on April 07, 2016, 08:58:49 PM
Getting caught up with your thread, all the engines look awesome Tom.
Jim,
Thank you, much appreciated.
It was great meeting you as well. I look forward to Oct. 2017 for the next show.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 08, 2016, 08:45:02 AM
I need to get a bunch of these marker lights.....if only I knew someone who could show me how to install them. ::)
Greg,
I think I can find someone who can do the installation. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on April 08, 2016, 10:56:11 AM
Meee 2! Perhaps someone could do a video class on installing them for the rest of us...
Thom,
I think you would be the perfect candidate for the video class! All in favor say I or eye. Or is it AYE?
No nays allowed on my thread. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on April 08, 2016, 11:41:34 AM
Tom....
So whose marker lamps are you using and what voltage bulbs?
Can you put up a close in photo?
See ya
Bob
Bob,
These are Tomar Marker lights. They now sell LED markers instead of the 1.5 v mini bulb.
I'll get a couple of close ups for you later this evening.
Tom ;D
Bob,
Here's the best I can do on the close ups.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080416172356.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080416172410.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080416172439.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080416172425.jpeg)
Tom ...
So are the Tomar lantern bodies brass or what.
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 08, 2016, 03:22:17 PM
Quote from: tct855 on April 08, 2016, 10:56:11 AM
Meee 2! Perhaps someone could do a video class on installing them for the rest of us...
Thom,
I think you would be the perfect candidate for the video class! All in favor say I or eye. Or is it AYE?
No nays allowed on my thread. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
I vote for Thom - as soon as he is done editing the video we can't talk about.
Quote from: bparrish on April 08, 2016, 05:54:09 PM
Tom ...
So are the Tomar lantern bodies brass or what.
They appear to be blackened brass.
Tom ;D
Tom. .....
There not a lot of really good ways to do this as most are rather fragile. I don't know if Tomar gives a cast pin that would run along with the wires. If they are separate as in, wires come out the bottom and pin out the side, if the model is already painted, you don't want to solder it from the back side and fry the paint. So consider super gluing the brass pin from the inside. Then drop out the wires to a hole just below the pin and glue it also. Then plumb it up electrically.
If the pin and wires come out the side together, or there is no pin, only wires, thread in the wires through a hole that is drilled on the angle you want to finish at. Just before tugging it up tight, put a small drop of super glue on the pin and wires and then tug through. Then put a dab of glue on the inside. Later carve off any objectionable glue on the outside with a # 11 blade.
My favorite way of controlling small amounts of super glue is with broken # 75 to 80 drills in a pin vice. The surface tension of super glue is really weird and using a straigh pin creates a huge drop. The remaining twists of a broken drill seem to confuse this.
Hope this helps. I have only ever used Tomar bail handle lanterns. All other marker lamps have been Cal Scale or the like and soldered then during construction.
Let me know.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
I'm not really sure the above was all about. I've had no problem installing the marker lights. I drill a #42 hole in the brass and "tack" the markers with gallery glass (glue). The small LED is inserted in the rear of the marker. The markers comes with the LEDs already installed.
I use the gallery glass as it will hold the marker yet if necessary, you can remove it by a little twist with your fingers.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 08, 2016, 03:19:20 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 08, 2016, 08:45:02 AM
I need to get a bunch of these marker lights.....if only I knew someone who could show me how to install them. ::)
Greg,
I think I can find someone who can do the installation. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom,
Oh boy..... 8)
As the young uns say today.....those lights are "way cool"!
Tom...
Sorry for the misunderstanding. One line above sounded like you were looking for ideas.
See ya
Bob
[/quote]
Tom,
Oh boy..... 8)
As the young uns say today.....those lights are "way cool"!
[/quote]
"Very Cool indeed"
Jim
Quote from: bparrish on April 09, 2016, 10:44:13 AM
Tom...
Sorry for the misunderstanding. One line above sounded like you were looking for ideas.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
No problem, we are all here to exchange ideas. It's all good.
Tom ;D
I saw these in person the other night. These are really cool! 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 09, 2016, 12:27:52 PM
I saw these in person the other night. These are really cool! 8) 8) 8)
Bob,
Sorry I missed your post. Thanks for stopping by the thread and the layout, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Everyone remember ACL Heavy Mountain #1405?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190216153506.jpeg)
A friend was installing TCS DCC WOW sound in it for me. He was reassembling the loco when the front end fell off.
My friend John said he almost started crying at the sight. He called me and was beside himself. I told him don't sweat it, its only brass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152554.jpeg)
John said it looked like the two frame parts were glued together. Well, I know I didn't glue them together so I told him he must be mistaken. In any event he sent me the loco via the Judge. I had a chance to inspect it yesterday and found the two parts were in fact once glued together.
Apparently the original solder joint was weak and came loose. I'm only assuming that the original owner super glued it back together in order to dump it on Ebay. And along came I! I didn't notice the glue when I stripped it in Acetone and the Acetone didn't dissolve the glue. I painted it, reassembled it and gave it to John for the sound installation.
Continued in a few.
Nothing makes me happier than to have to disassemble one of my custom painted brass locos. Especially in order to make a major repair involving heat and solder.
The photo below shows you a better view of where the two sections were once soldered/glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152609.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152609.jpeg)
Getting the two frame section properly aligned for soldering was a bit tricksie. I placed the main loco frame on a piece of window glass. I then used cardboard and single sheets of paper to marry the two parts.
You can also see the two parts are slightly separated at the bottom. I removed two single sheets of paper to get the correct match of the two parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152624.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152624.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152641.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152641.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I'm going to fast forward here and show you the repair. I used my small torch and Tix solder to make the repair.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152659.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616152711.jpeg)
I'm going to supersonic fast forward here and show you the loco as it is now, back in revenue service on the Atlantic and Southern Railroad.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180616160018.jpeg)
Tom,
Nice job as always buddy! Loco looks great! I like the markers as well, good there as well. As for the video John S. mentioned earlier. George has been leaking (no, flat telling everyone who calls him). ha. So it's okay to say it. I'll start the editing process in a couple weeks if not sooner. I think one of George's friends Frank (don't know his last name) he's going to be posting some pictures soon he took of the layout today of some of the new structures George has done on the layout since the Expo show and he'll mention the video tape on George's behalf I think. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Great save Tom.....i'm surprised John didn't stroke out or run away from home when the engine split. But then.....stuff happens! ;)
Greg,
Much appreciated. John was worried that he did it. Well, actually he did but it was already broken and it just happened to come apart at his house.
It's a good thing he has a friend who could make the repair. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D