Another brass loco project - repairs and painting.

[ACL1504]

Prior to taking the side rods and others moving parts off the locomotive, I did a roll test. It rolled fine with the exception of one very slight bind every revolution. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what the problem was causing the bind.

I turned the loco over and the steam chest and eccentric crank mechanisms all fell off. I noticed the steam chest bracket was completely unsoldered from the two frame sides. It appeared to be a cold solder joint by the model builder.

In the photo below you can see the small bracket between the two side frames. The two side frames are between the two steam cylinders.



You can see I polished the area in preparation to resolder the bracket.

Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I was concerned about the steam chest not being in the proper position when I resoldered the parts. To ensure I got it on correctly, I carefully but it back together and then turned it over but this time holding the parts in place.

The parts to be soldered are in a very small space and I needed to ensure that I didn't also solder the round steam chest screw to the bracket.

The Tix Flux comes with a rather large applicator, shown below. I used a small brush to apply the flux to the two areas to be soldered.



In the photo below you can see the two very small Tix Solder pieces against the bracket and side frame. They appear bigger due to the up close photo.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Prior to soldering the bracket in place, I wrapped the frame with a damp wash cloth.This was to absorb the heat and prevent any other sections from being unsoldered from the heat of this solder joint. The wash cloth didn't get photographed.

The bracket is now soldered in place and the wash cloth did the job.



I finished removing the parts from the loco and another part/bracket fell off. Referring to the above/below photos, the small bracket between the two center wheels is the offending bracket.



Continued in a few.

[bparrish]

Tom...

Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up.  Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?

Also help me with what manufacturer.  I've never seen a lash up quite like that.

Thanx
Bob

[ACL1504]

I positioned the bracket in place between the two side frames.




To make sure it was in the proper position, I placed the bottom frame plate on the loco.



You can see in the photo the hole is slightly off center. I made a slight adjustment and got the bracket in the correct position.



I carefully turned the loco frame over and made the repair in the same manor as I did with the steam chest bracket, wash cloth and all that stuff.



Sunday afternoon I'll be back on the Vanderbuilt tender and the changes I had to make to get it ready for sound.

Thanks for following along on this adventure.

[ACL1504]

Tom...

Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up.  Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?

Also help me with what manufacturer.  I've never seen a lash up quite like that.

Thanx
Bob

Bob,

Yes, the .015 wire is actually a tension spring. Although I wouldn't really say its a spring at all. The model is/was imported by NJ Custom Brass. The crappy builder was Daiyoung - Korea.



The model was offered in 1978 at a retail price of $234.00. 500 of this J-2 Mountain were made. Remember the model I painted for Frank Baker, Erieman? This is the same manufacturer of the model. I discussed the wire journal spring method in that thread.

http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0

One other manufacturer used this method as well. Early Overland models used the tension wire method on their models. Unfortunately, both my ACL R1 4-8-4's were built using the tension wire.  


I picked up this model at the local hobby shop for less than $100.00 knowing what I was getting. If the wire is in the correct position, there isn't any problem.

Tom

[bparrish]

Tom...

Thanx...  That is a system I am not familiar with.  Seems to me like the linear tension of the wire would offer uneven springing capabilities to the various axles.  I suppose in HO that is not much of an issue but well sprung locos really have better traction and greater pulling power.

Again... thanx
Bob

[jimmillho]

So many pieces, so little space.

Jim

[jerryrbeach]

Tom,
Your work is just awesome.  I worked in a hobby shop for several years and quickly learned the flat out hardest thing to find and fix was a slight "glitch" in the mechanism of a steam locomotive.  Thanks again for posting so many of your tips, tricks, and your wonderful explanations. 

[Erieman]

Tom...

Help me with the .015" wire on the second photo up.  Is that their idea of springs ? ? ?

Also help me with what manufacturer.  I've never seen a lash up quite like that.

Thanx
Bob

Bob,

Yes, the .015 wire is actually a tension spring. Although I wouldn't really say its a spring at all. The model is/was imported by NJ Custom Brass. The crappy builder was Daiyoung - Korea.



The model was offered in 1978 at a retail price of $234.00. 500 of this J-2 Mountain were made. Remember the model I painted for Frank Baker, Erieman? This is the same manufacturer of the model. I discussed the wire journal spring method in that thread.

http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1755.0

One other manufacturer used this method as well. Early Overland models used the tension wire method on their models. Unfortunately, both my ACL R1 4-8-4's were built using the tension wire.  


I picked up this model at the local hobby shop for less than $100.00 knowing what I was getting. If the wire is in the correct position, there isn't any problem.

Tom

Tom,

You mean you have another one just like mine? you are a brave person. Did you paint it or is it still in the box? does it really look like mine? WOW. Maybe I should buy it from you!!! Only kidding. Have a great day my friend.

Frank / Erieman

[jbvb]

I think the idea of the .015 wire was so the drivers would have a bit of equalization.  I don't own any, so I can't say if it worked at all.

[ACL1504]

Tom...

Thanx...  That is a system I am not familiar with.  Seems to me like the linear tension of the wire would offer uneven springing capabilities to the various axles.  I suppose in HO that is not much of an issue but well sprung locos really have better traction and greater pulling power.

Again... thanx
Bob

Bob,

You are very welcome. I'm not a fan of this type of journal spring but it does work.

Tom

[ACL1504]

So many pieces, so little space.

Jim

Jim,

Exactly! And, you had your share of putting all the pieces back together for others.

Thanks for checking in.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,
Your work is just awesome.  I worked in a hobby shop for several years and quickly learned the flat out hardest thing to find and fix was a slight "glitch" in the mechanism of a steam locomotive.  Thanks again for posting so many of your tips, tricks, and your wonderful explanations.

Jerry,

Your kind words are much appreciated, thank you. The dreaded "glitch" is one issue I hate working on, but a necessary one for a smooth running loco. It's my pleasure to work on an post the threads for others to see what all goes into the makings of a very smooth running mechanism.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I think the idea of the .015 wire was so the drivers would have a bit of equalization.  I don't own any, so I can't say if it worked at all.

James,

You are correct in part in that nothing is perfect. I've had to replace journal springs when one is "stretched" more than others. This method, although not the best, does in fact work.

I appreciated your comment and addition to the thread.

Tom