What Tom said: Looking good!

Quote from: S&S RR on May 02, 2014, 09:25:59 AM
What Tom said: Looking good!

Thanks John.....

Hi again and welcome back to more tie installation - full height mainline ties this time.
 
Before gluing the ties down, I sanded the top of the homasote and checked for bumps and dips that would give the track problems when I start installing ties and rail. Since the homasote makes a lot of dust, I put the shop vac hose up next to where I was sanding and it got most of the dust, it saves a lot of clean-up later on.
 
I started by installing the crossties from the yard lead switch ties along the mainline toward the chemical plant. This is a straight track of about 9' and will be a nice long lead going into the station that will be on the curve past the switches.
 
The following four pictures shows the sequence of the installation.
 
Exhibit #1 - (T315)

 
Exhibit #2 - (T317)

 
Exhibit #3 - (T343)

 
Exhibit #4 - (T346)

 
Continued.....

I then installed ths switch ties for the yard lead. Unlike the branchline switch ties, I marked the location of the computer board ties and pulled the wood ties off the tape before I glued them down. This will save time later on when I spike down switches. I won't have to cut the glue and peel out the wood tie being careful no to damage the ties on either side.
 
Exhibit #1 - (T318)

 
Next came the mainline passing siding switch. Like the previous switch, I pulled out the wood ties where they would interfere with the computer board ties.
 
I really don't like the computer board ties and I experimented with one of the switches when I got it all spiked down. I got out the soldering gun and unsoldered the computer board ties and removed them and replaced them with creosoted ties. It came out okay except for the frog guard rails which were a little loose - couldn't get spikes on both sides of the rail. On the next one, I will leave those two computer board ties so the strenght of the frog and guard rails aren't compromised.
 
Exhibit #2 - (T321)

 
While I was in the neighborhood, I installed the low profile ties for the switch that leads to the yard and service track.
 
Exhibit #3 - (T323)

 
After the switch ties, it's back to the mainline and passing siding ties. The mainline has a 36"r and the passing siding has a 34"r.
 
Exhibit #4 - (T349)

 
I don't have enough time now to finish adding the rest of the pictures, so check back in a day or two and I'll have them posted.

Looking real nice Greg. This procedure must take a lot patience, now I know where all mine went to. Take good care of it.
Bill

That is a lot of railroad ties!  Looks great!

I'll say it again Greg, better you than me!!

Quote from: PennsyJ1 on May 12, 2014, 03:58:03 PM
Looking real nice Greg. This procedure must take a lot patience, now I know where all mine went to. Take good care of it.
Bill

Thanks for looking in Bill.


Actually it isn't to bad and it is one of my favorite aspects of the hobby. The new spiking tool from Micro Mark makes that acivity mush quicker and easier. I just wish Micro Engineering didn't have such large heads on their spikes.....they need to do something about that.


Hope to visit soon.....

Quote from: S&S RR on May 12, 2014, 05:44:32 PM
That is a lot of railroad ties!  Looks great!

Thsnks John, more to come soon.....

Quote from: ak-milw on May 12, 2014, 07:28:49 PM
I'll say it again Greg, better you than me!!

What can I say Andy, I'm a glutton for punishment. 

Greg...........

This is a question and not a criticism.....

How do you ballast you full height ties differently than your yard lead stuff so as to show off the height of the main line ties.  Mine always seem to finish out about the same.

I got to where I just use low profile Campbell ties......... it takes less ballast and it seems to look about the same.

What am I doing wrong ? ? ?

see ya
Bob

Quote from: bparrish on May 13, 2014, 01:16:04 PM
Greg...........

This is a question and not a criticism.....

How do you ballast you full height ties differently than your yard lead stuff so as to show off the height of the main line ties.  Mine always seem to finish out about the same.

I got to where I just use low profile Campbell ties......... it takes less ballast and it seems to look about the same.

What am I doing wrong ? ? ?

see ya
Bob

Bob,


After seeing the work you're doing on that brass engine, I doubt if you're doing much wrong.


I think the main reason I went with the full height ties was to give myself the option of being able to apply thinner ballast in some areas of track that will highlight the depth of the ties. I remember seeing photos of mainline track and while most of the ballast is level with the top of the ties, some areas were not filled completly.


The slope on the sides of the roadbed is at a gentler angle (35 deg. vs 45 deg.) than the cork I used years ago and I think it makes the installation of the ballast a bit easier.


I'll have pictures of applying the ballast in a couple of more posts, stay tuned.....

Greg...

I have seen on the UP going northwest out of Idaho and into Eastern Oregon a lot of super elevated curves and it looks in places where the ballast slacks down a bit from the high side and the ties are more visible.  Probably from vibration.  The world has never been the same since they invented gravity.

Never thought about it much till now. 

Having the ties not all the way filled is a very cool way to take out some of the "same-ness" of everything.

Cool
Thanx
Bob

Looking good Greg.  I, too, enjoy handlaying track.  To me the hard part is the planning involved.  You really want to get it right the first time since it's a little more difficult to 'move' after the fact.  The big benefit in my mind is being able to lay track to fit an area rather than designing an area to fit prefab turnouts and crossovers.

Carry on!   

Quote from: ReadingBob on May 15, 2014, 07:49:43 AM
Looking good Greg.  I, too, enjoy handlaying track.  To me the hard part is the planning involved.  You really want to get it right the first time since it's a little more difficult to 'move' after the fact.  The big benefit in my mind is being able to lay track to fit an area rather than designing an area to fit prefab turnouts and crossovers.

Carry on!   

The best hand laid track is Micro Engineering NS Code 70 flex track! Nuff said.