CM Roundhouse build, continued

[deemery]

Could one add a thin plastic "spacer" on top of one of the magnets to keep them from actually touching, but provide the grip you desire?

That's more-or-less what I'm going to do.  I'll glue some 1/32" pieces on the roof, and then (re)glue the magnets onto those spacers.  That should give me a 1/32" air gap between the roof magnet and the wall magnet.


dave

[deemery]

Finally, I got the magnets positioned correctly.  You can sort of see how shallow the 'notch' is for the roof.  Next step is to do the smokestacks, which will require the Roadmaster to decide if the locos are stored nose in or nose out.  I'm thinking nose out, because they'll look better.  Nose in was a bit more prototypical, that's why many RRs put big numbers on their tenders.


dave

[donatode]

Looking good dave ..... large numerals on the ass end of the tenders was it because all the crews wore glasses? 

[deemery]

Looking good dave ..... large numerals on the ass end of the tenders was it because all the crews wore glasses? 

I was thinking to see them through the grime and steam, but your explanation certainly applies to me!


dave

[jbvb]

Where nose-in was chosen, it was generally because that left more room to work on the rods, cylinders, valves etc.  But it wasn't universal.

[Jerry]

Dave good to see you back at this.

Coming along very nicely.

Jerry

[deemery]

Well, just when I thought things would get easy, I realized that the smokestacks (that need to be centered over the tracks) aren't parallel/perpendicular to any line on the roundhouse roof.  So after much fiddling and measuring, and a bit of cursing, I marked the locations for the smokestacks on a cardboard roof mockup I had.  I punched a hole and then ran a styrene dowel down to double check the location of each smokestack was actually centered on the track underneath.


dave

[S&S RR]

Dave


The build is looking great - I'm following along.  Roundhouses are one of my favorite structures.

[deemery]

After some consulting with Slim Sartore (http://www.microlumina.com) , I did a mock-up of lighting for the roundhouse.  This is 3  3mm flood LEDs mounted between stalls 5 and 6.  He originally suggested 2x3 surface mounts, but said "those would probably be too bright."  I have a fair amount more engineering to do on how I'll install them.  I'll probably install them on the roof, and then I'll have to solve the problem of how to keep the roof removable wth the power feeds.  (The cans of hair spray in the 2nd shot are only used to keep that temporary cardboard roof held down onto the structure.)

dave

[jbvb]

I've found it possible to dim 3mm white LEDs somewhat by adjusting the dropping resistance, but  the range is limited.

[deemery]

I've found it possible to dim 3mm white LEDs somewhat by adjusting the dropping resistance, but  the range is limited.

I'm using current limiters instead of resistors, which make wiring a lot simpler...  :-)


dave

[jbvb]

I've got four current limiters on my layout, but there's no possibility of adjusting LED brightness with them.

[postalkarl]

Hi Dave:

Looking good. Like I said I really like your stonework. The colors are great.

karl

[deemery]

I decided to tackle the doors.  The problem with the kit was the doors were too small for some larger late 19th/early 20th century locos.  The prototype had this problem, and solved it by recutting (ugly!) square doors for two stalls.  Instead, I "jacked up" the entire roundhouse by adding 1/4" stone foundation strips (From NE Brownstone.)  But that meant the kit's doors (great Grandt Line castings) were too short.  Fortunately, Walt Gillespie, Rusty Stumps Scale Models, has laser-cut doors of the correct width and arch shape.  Walt redesigned these to add that 1/4". 


The trim color on the SL&N is "German Uniform Gray/Feldgrau" (paint leftover from military modeling days.)  I spraypainted the doors.  Then the problem is how to hang them.  Even if the doors aren not movable (i.e. if I glued them in place open), I still have to figure out how to attach them.  The CM kit, probably following the prototype, has L shaped hinge pins that come from the stone, and the door hinges are set on those pins.  I spent a frustrating weekend cutting a bunch of 1/16" pieces from .025 hollow stainless steel tubing.  Those fit over .015 rod.  You can make out the stainless hinge 'barrels' on the right side of the right door, top and bottom hinges.


dave

[deemery]

The other thing I've been working on is detail castings for the interior.  Here's a top-down shot showing placement, and then a close-up showing one corner.  The shelves are way too high above the table, but this is just trying to get a feel for how to arrange things.


The third project, roof and lighting, is awaiting some parts.  So work continues, and for me, this is going at a fast pace. 


dave