HO scale windows

[rosyfft]

Anyone have a favorite technique to weathering HO scale windows? I am looking for help with dirtying things up and also peeling paint. Hopefully the suggestions work for HO.
Thanks

[coors2u]

I would start with a grey primer. Then paint them the color you want. Cheap spray paints are always good.
There are several methods to weather them.
- Pastel chalks
- A/I ink wash
- hair spray works for chipping. There are several videos on YouTube for this. It may be hard to get the best results for HO scale though.


Start light and build up layers. There is a ton of info on this subject. Some other guys might jump in.

[ReadingBob]

I'll offer the process I typically use.

1. For plastic parts remove the parts from the sprue with a sprue cutter and clean them up any rough edges with an Emory board or very fine sanding stick.  For windows laser cut from micro fiber board ditto.  Note: Some people prefer to paint the parts while they're still on the sprue/fiber board as it makes it easier to handle them.





2. Prime them with a light gray or earth color.  I used to airbrush them with Floquil Primer or Floquil Earth but that brand of paint is no longer available.  Until I find something suitable I'll use rattle can colors that are similar.

3. Paint them the desired trim color.  Again, I used to airbrush them with Floquil paints.  Brush painting with decent acrylics works well too.

4.  For a peeling paint effect I take a piece of a close celled sponge (I use some I picked up at the craft store that are shaped like little wedges) and dab it in some light gray paint.  Then I dab the sponge on some scrape paper to remove almost all of the paint.  Then I lightly dab the sponge on the window to transfer a little of the paint on the windows.  How much depends on how weathered I want the windows to look.  I use a cheap craft store acrylic "Dove Gray" for this.  If I overdo it or don't like the effect I immediately wash the paint off with water if it hasn't started to dry or rubbing alcohol if it has.  Sometimes I follow up with "Khaki Tan".  The gray represents places where the primary color has peeled away to expose the primer and the tan represents places were even the primer has peeled away to expose the wood beneath it.

Note: The primary trim color I chose for the windows in this photo was Floquil Primer.  I dabbed a lighter gray followed by a light khaki on them to simulate peeling paint.  I use the same technique on walls.





I know others use this technique but in reverse.  They apply the trim color with a sponge so as to not completely cover the primer and give the appearance of peeling paint.

5. I dip the painted windows in an A&I mix (90% Isopropyl Alcohol with black ink mixed in it).  I have no formula for the mix.  I mix up a dark batch but cut it with clear alcohol as I refill the bottle on the workbench.  I use a darker mix for darker colors and thin it out a bit for lighter colors.  Watch as the windows dry.  If the A&I pools on a flat surface blot it off with a paper towel or push it around with a brush to prevent a dark blotch. 



6. Dry brush with an off white (or light gray or even a light tan).  Again, I prefer cheap craft store acrylics for this so I can 'undo' areas where I got a little heavy handed.   



My 'primer' color window examples make it a little harder to see the effect.  Here's a picture of a darker colored wall and door painted using this technique:



Hope this helps.  Everyone has their own preferred ways of doing it.  This is just one of many. 

[ACL1504]

Excellent tutorial Bob!

Tom

[rpdylan]

Very nice tutorial!  From Doug Foscale I got the tip of sponging on earth/dirt paint after the window was painted to simulate peeled paint. Its a nice technique. 

Bob C.

[Janbouli]

Thanks Bob , I think I already have seen this from you before , but it works to see things multiple times.

[bparrish]

My favorite thing for not chasing parts around the bench is to put wide blue tape down with the sticky side up and put the parts on the mastic.

see ya
Bob

[Vilius]

I cut strips of cardboard from the sides of Priority Mail boxes that the kits come in and use them to attach blue tape to. I leave some room on one side so I can hold it while spraying without getting paint on my fingers.

Vilius

[Slim Jerkins]

I've got a big 'ol desktop tape dispenser that's loaded with blue tape sitting on my workbench. Sticky side up is the rule of the day for a lot of jobs.

I like to cut from sprues, sand down the knubs and stick the window or door onto the tape before painting. I always shoot khaki colored paint for "wooden" window frames. It's just a habit I picked up from reading one of Frary's books. "Wood" parts get khaki, "metal" parts get gray paint.

-slim

[donatode]

I've got a big 'ol desktop tape dispenser that's loaded with blue tape sitting on my workbench. Sticky side up is the rule of the day for a lot of jobs.

I like to cut from sprues, sand down the knubs and stick the window or door onto the tape before painting. I always shoot khaki colored paint for "wooden" window frames. It's just a habit I picked up from reading one of Frary's books. "Wood" parts get khaki, "metal" parts get gray paint.

-slim

Very good to remember this .... simply great advice ...

[Mike Engler]

Some great techniques here, and a terrific mini-clinic from Bob Butts!


I keep looking for the perfect "close celled sponges" that Bob mentioned. What do the craft store wedges look like? At Michaels? Brand?  I know Doug Foscale recommends this method with sponges from Home Despot I think, but I'm not sure I'm getting the right ones.

[rpdylan]

I get the sponge used for wiping ceramic tile when grouting. It lasts a long time and its pretty soft. I just snip a piece off as I need it. (I think Doug F uses this type, if I remember correctly)

Bob C.

[martin.ojaste]

I follow much the process Bob posted (good post Bob), with one small addition.


I find the plastic windows too smooth and flat and the edges are round. I deepen all the seams where wood trim meets another piece of trim. Then I roughen up the flat areas with a wire brush or 120 grid sand paper. All this gives depth and variations to the surfaces that are slight, yet noticeable and adds to the definition to the areas of the windows. To go the extra mile (kilometre) I thin the width of the mulleins to make them more to scale.

[ReadingBob]

Some great techniques here, and a terrific mini-clinic from Bob Butts!


I keep looking for the perfect "close celled sponges" that Bob mentioned. What do the craft store wedges look like? At Michaels? Brand?  I know Doug Foscale recommends this method with sponges from Home Despot I think, but I'm not sure I'm getting the right ones.

I've been meaning to try the tile grout sponges that Doug recommends but never think to pick one up when in Home Depot.    The sponges I use I picked up in JoAnn Fabric are called Spongit Wedges and they're manufactured by Lowe Cornell.  12 in a pack and I cut them into smaller pieces as I use them to get a 'fresh' surface as they wear out or to reach smaller places (like inside the door frame to get to all the surfaces of the door itself. 

[ReadingBob]

I follow much the process Bob posted (good post Bob), with one small addition.


I find the plastic windows too smooth and flat and the edges are round. I deepen all the seams where wood trim meets another piece of trim. Then I roughen up the flat areas with a wire brush or 120 grid sand paper. All this gives depth and variations to the surfaces that are slight, yet noticeable and adds to the definition to the areas of the windows. To go the extra mile (kilometre) I thin the width of the mulleins to make them more to scale.

Thanks Martin.  That's a very interesting addition you have to the process.