Scratchbuilt signals

[DACS]

As I stated in my "Lighting Your Model" thread, "I should probably do a thread on building the signals you are seeing."
So, here goes.
Now, these are in 'O' scale.  I know that most everyone posting here, is in 'HO' scale.  But, perhaps this might help someone wanting to try this.  Like gleaning wheat...
Who knows, I may try to build some for 'HO' also.  If my eyes and fingers allow it!  Gotta get these cataracs taken care of...

The drawings and measurements are taken from Wayne Rodericks website.  http://tslrr.com/sgnlhome.htm

This pic show all the components that go into making one regular signal, with the exception of the top cap and ladder.  There are 19 pieces per, including the electrical wire used.



I cannot find 'O' scale signal ladder stock at all.  Peco does put it out, but I cannot find anyplace in the great U.S. of A. that carries it.
Perhaps someone reading this can help me out here.
If not, I am probably going to make my own etched brass ladder stock.  I would use either .03 or .02 shim stock for this.  Gotta see.
Pretty thin, but, the thinner it is, the better, cleaner etchings you get.  If it comes to this, I will also do a brass etching thread.  Maybe, perhaps, might...probably.

The mast (1/8" o.d. x 4 1/2"length) brass tube.  K&S
Lower collar (5/32" o.d. x 1/8" length) brass tube.  K&S
The shield (.05 x 11/16" x 1 7/32") brass shim stock.  K&S
Guard rail (.020) brass rod.  K&S
Hoods (5/32" x 5/16 length) aluminum tube cut at an angle.  K&S
Shield standoffs (.03 x 5/64" brass shim stock.  K&S
The platform is actually made from some brass mesh that was intended for a model ship. It is much easier to find in smaller scale.
The cap, which is not in the pic, is made with Evergreen white plastic, turned in my dremel.  Gotta be careful with that!  It melts very quickly if pushed too fast.
The PCB circuit is designed by myself and etched in my shop.  A good source for PCB materials is:  www.circuitspecialists.com
They carry a large range of different boards as well as FR4, which I am going to have to get for another project.  Not too bad on prices either.
Then of course the 3mm RED, YELLOW and GREEN LED's.  I didn't make these.     http://www.led-switch.com/
The wiring is insulated magnet wire.  It is all the same color, but I code them by the lengths of the wire used for each piece.
The ground, or common is the longest.  The Red is next in length.  The yellow is next in length and the the green is the shortest of the four.
This keeps everything working right and easy to wire up in the circuits.

30AWG can be had through Jameco Electronics.  In Red, Yellow, Green, Black, White, Brown...etc..  http://www.jameco.com/1/3/kynar-wire-wrap-wire

Taking the cut collar tube, slide it onto the mast, locate the lower collar position and solder to the mast.  I use 60/40 solder and rosin.
This measurement is 3 5/8" from the top of the mast to the bottom edge of the collar.  Small note here: always measure from what you determine to be the top of the mast to the bottom edge of the collar.   Make a scribe mark.  Put some rosin inside the collar and on the mast, then solder.  It won't require much.



Next, the mark for the shield location, needs to be made on the top end of the mast.  This is 7/32" down to the "TOP" of the standoff.
The standoffs are not soldered on at this time.

Next, take the shield and mark the centerline, side to side.
Next, mark the centerline, top to bottom.
Then measuring 1/4" from the center, to the top and scribe.  Then measuring 1/4" from the center, to the bottom.  This has got to be very exact.  This is the hardest part of the whole thing.  The PCB's and LED's need to line up perfectly.  You can adjust the grinding part if you are off a tad.  But, this is a step that has to be done with care.
I have been drilling out the LED/hood holes with drill bits then finishing off with a conical grinding wheel with my dremel.  Very slow.  Too fast and you end up with holes that are too big.  These are to be finished out to be the exact inside diameter as the O.D. of the aluminum hood tubes.







Here, I had talked with Bob Parrish about him making me a tool and die for punching out the holes in the shield for the hoods and led's. He gave me a suggestion I had not thought of.  Grind a drill bit the size of the holes you want, on the blank end.  Using a dremel cut-off wheel, carefully grind it until you have a concave with sharp edges.  This is the metal punch.  Then, using a piece of mild steel, drill a hole the same size as the bit.  Voila', hole punch.  I have been working on this, but have no pics to share as of yet.  I will also have to make a jig for this.  To keep everything lined up.
I know what I mean, but Bob might be able to better explain it than I am doing.

I made a stiff cardstock pattern for the rounded ends of the shield.  Using this, I made a brass pattern for the actual marking of the shields.



Will take this up a little later.  Now, I have domesticated things to do.

Dave

Seattle

[bparrish]

Dave ...

Go to eBay and put in O scale ladder.

I had a bunch of new stock come up.

See ya
Bob

[DACS]

Hey Bob.  Thanks for the input.  I can find the product all over the i-net, but it's all in Austrailia and the UK.  I have even tried e-bay.  Same thing.  I would like to find some place in the U.S.A.  If you have a link to share where I can get it in the U.S...?  Maybe?

This is the hard copy of the pattern.  I used it because I messed up the spacing on the hole locations.  Never waste!



Here is a drilled and rounded shield.  The radius is a scale 17".  This makes the shield a scale 34" in width.



Here I have placed and soldered the LED's onto the board.    The solder pads on the PCB, are 1/4" centers from each other.  This is a scale 12" centers between the LED's. 





Test fitting everything.  The hoods are not yet glued down to the PCB.









Now the wires are soldered to their respective pads.  Again, they are all the same color but are coded by length.  Shortest being green.  Next Yellow, then Red.  The longest is common or MT.







That's about it now.  Will pick this up a little later today.

Dave

Seattle

[DACS]

As I had my finger on the way to Post.  I got a red message above what I was posting.  It said, I have a new post.  Well, I posted and when I came in to check.  There was no new post.  Did I cancel it out by posting before looking?  If I did, my apologies to whom ever it was that posted.
I hope you come back in and repost.

Dave

Seattle

[DACS]

Now it is time to test the LED's.  I have never had one that did not work.  Put one in backwards once.  But, that was a quick fix.







Next comes drilling the hole in the mast for the wires to go down and through.
This is 1 7/16" from the top of the brass mast tube.
I will file a small flat spot on the mast at this location before drilling the hole.  This keeps the bit from running off the mast.
I use a 1/16" bit for this hole.  Then I will elongate the hole.  This keeps the edges from snagging  the wires on the edges of the hole, as they are slipped down the tube.

I am going to make a jig for this process out of square tubing. I have made six signals so far and it takes about 2 hours to make one.  I believe jigs are very handy for cutting down on time with making repetitious parts.  That way I will not have to keep measuring and filing.





Next step is to make the standoffs for the shield.  These are .03 brass shim stock, cut to a width of 5/64".  Length should be long enough to get two standoffs at the very least.

 

Here is the jig I made for bending these all the same.  Not real pretty, but it does the trick.  I will let the next series of photos tell the story.
From the upper outside edge of the 1/8" tube to the bottom edge, it is 5/16".  The bottom wide piece of the jig is 1/4" in width.  To get the correct angles, I cut to blend with the tube.
Not real technical, but it works.









Here we have one standoff ready to solder.



A little filing and clean up...



Two matching standoffs.



To place the standoffs in the proper place, measure 5/32" from the top of each hood hole and scribe a line.





The top edge of the standoff, is soldered to the scribed mark that was made on the shield.  You will also need to keep these standoffs centered on the shield.



Using rosin on the shield and the standoff...solder in place.



Next, carefully clean it up, getting rid of the rosin and any filings that may be clinging to the piece.  Then paint and set aside to dry.



Now the hoods are placed with CA.  The glue should be kept on the surface of the PCB.  If it is on the LED's, they bond instantly.  Makes it difficult to align everything.



Next step will be to assemble the PCB/wLED's and shield.

Dave

Seattle

[jbvb]

Nice work; O scale tempts me from time to time, but then I think about six foot minimum radius for full-length passenger cars and the feeling passes...

[S&S RR]

Nice work; O scale tempts me from time to time, but then I think about six foot minimum radius for full-length passenger cars and the feeling passes...

I was also tempted by O scale for the structure detail and easier on the eyes - but I would have to have double the size of my basement to do what I wanted. So I also passed and stuck with HO scale.  The price of the locomotives was also a great incentive to stick with HO.

[ACL1504]

O scale is wonderful, if you have the room as they say. On3 is most excellent as well. But again, the room and price is the issue for me as well.

DACS, the signals are looking fantastic. Thanks for sharing.

Tom

[DACS]

Thanks everybody, for the great comments!
I agree that 'o' scale is cost and space prohibitive for most of us, including me.
I, actually, work with the dark side of it.  On30.
These signals, are part of a demonstrator model I am building.
To show the signal system I am building, at work.
The system doesn't care what scale or gauge you prefer. TT, N, HO, O, or G.
it works with any of them. 
I am going to attempt to build some HO scale signals also.  I chose O scale because, my eyes dont like anything smaller right now.  Freaking cataracts play h e double hockey sticks with the details.
Once I have the surgery done, I will go for the HO.  That is my scale of choice also,  and always has been. Hon3 to be exact!
I just can't sit back and not work with my love of the hobby and let it languish.
It ain't my nature!
As I stated, perhaps something can be gleaned from this thread for anyone and the scale you love.

Dave

Seattle